Howto: Cabriolet convertible top hydraulic system
#51
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2003 CLK430 Cabrio, 2009 BMW 535 iX Wagon
I recently discovered that you can now download manuals at mbusa.com: http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/#/servPrtsOwnersManuals/. AFAIK, the 2000 or later cabs would work the same way as yours. The procedure for manual operation of the soft top is towards the end of the manual.
#53
mercedes clk 55 conv
Read your thread on your clk top problem. I am having the same problem...going to take the trunk apart tonight or tomorrow and check that relay....i'll let you all know what happens....i am optimistic...i have not used my top in 7 months!!! Thanks for you information!!
Randy
Randy
#54
I was going to wash the car and was putting top up and stopped holding the button before it finishing latching in the front. My fault on this.
Went to open back up and now it will not fully open or close.
Problem now is it's closed in front, but back is not latched. 1/2" gap. Metal key does not open the trunk and allow me to manually lock the back latch to drive car. Do I need to take out the back seat to pop the trunk open?
Concerning the top before this happened yesterday, sometimes it needed a little "assistance" at the half way spot when you lowered the top. After it gets past that spot it would work OK.
My thoughts were:
I was thinking I got the sequence messed up when I stopped before it locked closed. Hoping it was a fault code I could clear with key switch to allow for proper operation.
1. Once I get latch locked manually, should I try and operate top normal and see if it works after getting back to a ready position?
2. The key will turn in trunk, but unable to get trunk to open. Is this related to top? It tells you in manual to use key to open trunk because remote will not work with Conv. top not latched.
3. Should I replace the relay anyways?
4. Should I replace the cables to eliminate stopping in mid stroke on open/close sequence after I finally get top back into condition it was in two days ago?
All this because it was finally a nice day and I was going to clean up the car and break out the buffer...
BTW, This is wife's car making it a priority for me to fix.
Went to open back up and now it will not fully open or close.
Problem now is it's closed in front, but back is not latched. 1/2" gap. Metal key does not open the trunk and allow me to manually lock the back latch to drive car. Do I need to take out the back seat to pop the trunk open?
Concerning the top before this happened yesterday, sometimes it needed a little "assistance" at the half way spot when you lowered the top. After it gets past that spot it would work OK.
My thoughts were:
I was thinking I got the sequence messed up when I stopped before it locked closed. Hoping it was a fault code I could clear with key switch to allow for proper operation.
1. Once I get latch locked manually, should I try and operate top normal and see if it works after getting back to a ready position?
2. The key will turn in trunk, but unable to get trunk to open. Is this related to top? It tells you in manual to use key to open trunk because remote will not work with Conv. top not latched.
3. Should I replace the relay anyways?
4. Should I replace the cables to eliminate stopping in mid stroke on open/close sequence after I finally get top back into condition it was in two days ago?
All this because it was finally a nice day and I was going to clean up the car and break out the buffer...
BTW, This is wife's car making it a priority for me to fix.
#55
hey
with the roof it's always hard to say. since it needed a little help in the top position i'd say you dont have enough hidraulic fluid in the pump, you should check that.
also, you cannot come into the trunk trough the rear seat, it has a metal plating unlike the coupe model.
also, i payed for may relay about 4$ so i'd say change it anyway if it makes you feel better.
now, the tricky part is getting into the trunk. you dont wanna mess up the boot lock (like i did), so dont force the key or anything. i think that the boot has a lockout mechanisim preventing you from opening it while the top is not fully closed or open, so you might wanna try to reset the roof by holding the button (pushed or pulled not sure) for about 20sec.
also, check weather the integrated rollbar in the rear headrest is opreable, and then get back to me, and i'll try to answer as soon as possible, probably within the hour or so
(trust me, i know the frustration with the roof and not getting any info on it)
i'll get my pictures together and make an diagnostics and service manual for the damn thing some time in the near future...
cheers
with the roof it's always hard to say. since it needed a little help in the top position i'd say you dont have enough hidraulic fluid in the pump, you should check that.
also, you cannot come into the trunk trough the rear seat, it has a metal plating unlike the coupe model.
also, i payed for may relay about 4$ so i'd say change it anyway if it makes you feel better.
now, the tricky part is getting into the trunk. you dont wanna mess up the boot lock (like i did), so dont force the key or anything. i think that the boot has a lockout mechanisim preventing you from opening it while the top is not fully closed or open, so you might wanna try to reset the roof by holding the button (pushed or pulled not sure) for about 20sec.
also, check weather the integrated rollbar in the rear headrest is opreable, and then get back to me, and i'll try to answer as soon as possible, probably within the hour or so
(trust me, i know the frustration with the roof and not getting any info on it)
i'll get my pictures together and make an diagnostics and service manual for the damn thing some time in the near future...
cheers
#56
hey
with the roof it's always hard to say. since it needed a little help in the top position i'd say you dont have enough hidraulic fluid in the pump, you should check that.
also, you cannot come into the trunk trough the rear seat, it has a metal plating unlike the coupe model.
Thanks from saving me pulling seats out today...
also, i payed for may relay about 4$ so i'd say change it anyway if it makes you feel better.
Will worry about relay after I get in trunk..
now, the tricky part is getting into the trunk. you dont wanna mess up the boot lock (like i did), so dont force the key or anything. i think that the boot has a lockout mechanisim preventing you from opening it while the top is not fully closed or open, so you might wanna try to reset the roof by holding the button (pushed or pulled not sure) for about 20sec.
Roll bars are down, top is all the way closed except last 1" that locks in back.
also, check weather the integrated rollbar in the rear headrest is opreable, and then get back to me, and i'll try to answer as soon as possible, probably within the hour or so
(trust me, i know the frustration with the roof and not getting any info on it)
i'll get my pictures together and make an diagnostics and service manual for the damn thing some time in the near future...
cheers
with the roof it's always hard to say. since it needed a little help in the top position i'd say you dont have enough hidraulic fluid in the pump, you should check that.
also, you cannot come into the trunk trough the rear seat, it has a metal plating unlike the coupe model.
Thanks from saving me pulling seats out today...
also, i payed for may relay about 4$ so i'd say change it anyway if it makes you feel better.
Will worry about relay after I get in trunk..
now, the tricky part is getting into the trunk. you dont wanna mess up the boot lock (like i did), so dont force the key or anything. i think that the boot has a lockout mechanisim preventing you from opening it while the top is not fully closed or open, so you might wanna try to reset the roof by holding the button (pushed or pulled not sure) for about 20sec.
Roll bars are down, top is all the way closed except last 1" that locks in back.
also, check weather the integrated rollbar in the rear headrest is opreable, and then get back to me, and i'll try to answer as soon as possible, probably within the hour or so
(trust me, i know the frustration with the roof and not getting any info on it)
i'll get my pictures together and make an diagnostics and service manual for the damn thing some time in the near future...
cheers
If I can get in trunk I will be able to bleed system and manually lock top in place. This will give me a car again that you can drive. Granted, it will not be a convertible though if I have to leave the top up all the time.
Reading a bunch last night and I found a message board on peachparts talking about getting locked out of their trunks. Mostly older Benz, but one guy said to put key in lock, turn key clockwise, then push in was the proper sequence. Turning counterclockwise is locking it. With this little key that is stuck inside the big key, it does not turn very good. PITA
Most of the people that have had trouble getting in trunk finally get in by working it for a long time.
I have trunk lock soaking with some silicone spray right now, going to let it work for a couple of hours and try the key. Wish me luck..
#57
well, first of, good luck.
i worked my key for about 2 hours, almost got there, lost my patience and broke it off in the lock... that was a real mess.
now.
i had the exact issue like you. the top was stuck in between the unlocked and locked position (the rear part ot the top, going into the top boot lock)
be careful not to damage the boot lid or the top by opening the lid while the top is not all the way down. also, a piece of advice in advance. granted that you do get into the trunk eventually, you really should check the piece of sh*t relay on the hidraulic pump, and check for the hidraulic fluid level. not too much work, 2 hours should be enough.
back to the issue.
as i remeber it, the manual opening position for the trunk is counter clockwise.
the last thing is, you should try to reset your whole system by holding the top knob down for 25sec and then the same with the rear rollbars. i doubt this will help, but it may work, and takes about a minute, so no loss there... and yeah, you have to do it while the key is in the second position (car off)
hope to hear from you with some results
good luck again.
i worked my key for about 2 hours, almost got there, lost my patience and broke it off in the lock... that was a real mess.
now.
i had the exact issue like you. the top was stuck in between the unlocked and locked position (the rear part ot the top, going into the top boot lock)
be careful not to damage the boot lid or the top by opening the lid while the top is not all the way down. also, a piece of advice in advance. granted that you do get into the trunk eventually, you really should check the piece of sh*t relay on the hidraulic pump, and check for the hidraulic fluid level. not too much work, 2 hours should be enough.
back to the issue.
as i remeber it, the manual opening position for the trunk is counter clockwise.
the last thing is, you should try to reset your whole system by holding the top knob down for 25sec and then the same with the rear rollbars. i doubt this will help, but it may work, and takes about a minute, so no loss there... and yeah, you have to do it while the key is in the second position (car off)
hope to hear from you with some results
good luck again.
#58
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02 clk 55, 13 GL 450
you can get in through the back seat... Pull up and out on the lower portion and then you can remove the upper. Remove the upper by removing the 3 bolts at the bottom and the 2 screws behind the arm rest first. The bolt to release the top cover will now be exposed. Release this and raise the cover an inch or two to gain access to the trunk. Now comes the tricky part. You will need to use a long stick with a bend in it to press the trunk release button. Will take a little doing but that is why you need to remove the seat to get all the room you can. Good luck
#60
try this.... lol it works for me lol ...if the back part is opened alil and u cant get it to close and ure trunk wont open..... hold the button that raises the back head rests and the switch to close the top..... hold it for a few seconds play around with it.... hopefully that should work .... thats how i do mine lol sucks! mine wont open manually .. only closes even after i switched that relay... how i did mine was by taking out my lower back seat then the top part of the seat and took out that subwoofer thingy thats in the middle and some how got my hand thru that hole and got the relay switch out and bought a new one for 6 bucks ... only thing is ... just closes... oh well i can live with that for now....anyways hope that helps
#61
#62
I fixed my top. Thanks Missinlinc. Guys if your roll-bars won't go down make sure your motor has Hydraulic fluid. Mine was empty so that's why my roll-bars were stuck and wouldn't come down. I topped off the fluid (Mercedes Dealership charged me $8) and switched the relay. Like Missinlinc stated, I would advise purchasing the relay from O'Reily's, Advance Auto Parts, or Auto Zone. I got mine from Auto Zone for $17, but I bet it's cheaper at O'Reily's (Dealership will charge $40-$60 for the same relay). I took me about 3 1/2 hrs. to complete the entire process. Make sure you have adequate time. Good luck!
#63
Fixed Top in seconds
My daughter was raising the top the other day and had problems closing the it. She had not closed the top before so she was unclear with the sequence of closing. Nedlessly to say it would'nt close fully. When she got home the top was closed but would not open and the trunk would not open.
After reading your article I raised the roll bar, BAM. The storage compartment snapped shut, all problems solved. When she was closing the top she did not wait until the storage cover closed. I was just ready to take to dealer and
have them fix the top. Thank goodness I read your article first. I'm figuring
you saved me at least several hundred bucks.
After reading your article I raised the roll bar, BAM. The storage compartment snapped shut, all problems solved. When she was closing the top she did not wait until the storage cover closed. I was just ready to take to dealer and
have them fix the top. Thank goodness I read your article first. I'm figuring
you saved me at least several hundred bucks.
#64
#68
The information above has been extremely helpful. I have followed all the steps that I have received through this site and wanted to provide an update to everyone to see if someone could help me pinpoint my issue. Once I finally got all the bolts removed and pulled the metal plates for the hydraulic system I was able to determine I didn't have any leaks and no loss of hydraulic fluid. When I attempted to close the top with the button on the console, the window lifted however the trunk lid didn't open. After doing this once, now I am unable to lift the back window at all. I have to use the key to unlock the trunk and push down the back window so I can manually lock the top down. Like I've said, I have reviewed all the threads and there is so much to read I'm not sure which to follow, so if someone could narrow things down I'd appreciate it.
#69
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'99 CLK 320 Cabriolet
Wanted to share my problems with the convertible top in case it can help someone.
I had a similar problem as another poster when I released the top switch mid-cycle and then it ceased working completely. I put the top down by hand without switching the pump to manual and I think that was the mistake. Everything worked again after that, but about a week later I started noticing drops of oil on the read deck lid. ???? Took me another week to realize it was hydraulic pump fluid leaking out of the latch hole on the top cover! It took another few weeks for the drips to turn into a river and then the top stopped working all together. The top would "mostly" latch except for a half inch and I could not get into the trunk. Thanks to this site and the dealer I correctly diagnosed the problem as the leaky vacuum actuator. Apparently it's got a reputation for going out. ~$180 from the dealer and a few hours on my back in the trunk and I got it fixed. Refilled the reservoir with Mercedes hydraulic fluid ~$18. Has worked flawlessly since. Pics of the part are attached.
For those struggling with the trunk, I too had problems getting into mine. Try using the metal key and turning approx. 30-45 degrees counter clock, then pushing the button in. The trunk should pop. Your power windows will also start rolling down. GL to anyone else dealing with this problem!
I had a similar problem as another poster when I released the top switch mid-cycle and then it ceased working completely. I put the top down by hand without switching the pump to manual and I think that was the mistake. Everything worked again after that, but about a week later I started noticing drops of oil on the read deck lid. ???? Took me another week to realize it was hydraulic pump fluid leaking out of the latch hole on the top cover! It took another few weeks for the drips to turn into a river and then the top stopped working all together. The top would "mostly" latch except for a half inch and I could not get into the trunk. Thanks to this site and the dealer I correctly diagnosed the problem as the leaky vacuum actuator. Apparently it's got a reputation for going out. ~$180 from the dealer and a few hours on my back in the trunk and I got it fixed. Refilled the reservoir with Mercedes hydraulic fluid ~$18. Has worked flawlessly since. Pics of the part are attached.
For those struggling with the trunk, I too had problems getting into mine. Try using the metal key and turning approx. 30-45 degrees counter clock, then pushing the button in. The trunk should pop. Your power windows will also start rolling down. GL to anyone else dealing with this problem!
#71
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2002 mercedes clk320 convertable
2002 clk 320 cabrio
Can someone just give me some info...I just want to verfi the dealers repair claim.I have a 2002 clk 320...the top was sputtering and not completeing the process.I took the car in for service and it seems there was a hydrolic fluid leak...and said that the fluid leaked out all over under the back seat..due to this fact the entire mechinism needs to be replaced..which includes the roll bars..and it is a 5000.00 dollar part! and the repair is 7,500.00 has anyone ever heard of that? thanks much for your help
#72
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02 clk 55, 13 GL 450
Can someone just give me some info...I just want to verfi the dealers repair claim.I have a 2002 clk 320...the top was sputtering and not completeing the process.I took the car in for service and it seems there was a hydrolic fluid leak...and said that the fluid leaked out all over under the back seat..due to this fact the entire mechinism needs to be replaced..which includes the roll bars..and it is a 5000.00 dollar part! and the repair is 7,500.00 has anyone ever heard of that? thanks much for your help
#73
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'99 CLK 320 Cabriolet
i would want to know what "mechanism" they are replacing for $7500... the part that usually leaks back there is $180 from the dealer. plus the fluid to refill. i would do that first and see if that fixes it. takes a couple hours to complete
#74
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2000 CLK 320
Me too
Hey I am just starting to troubleshoot my wifes 2000 CLK 320. I pulled the trunk floor carpet out after the top failed to lower and she lowered it manually without changing it to the manual setting. I found hyd fluid on both sides of my trunk well so I do not know yet exactly where it is leaking from.
I do thank you for your post that gives me a starting point.
Do you have any other pointers for me on how to troubleshoot the hyd system?
Thanks
Rodney and Alicia
I do thank you for your post that gives me a starting point.
Do you have any other pointers for me on how to troubleshoot the hyd system?
Thanks
Rodney and Alicia
#75
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2002 mercedes clk320 convertable
Thank you so much for your help...well the mechinism they are talking about is the entire unit in the back that even includes the roll bar (head rests)..all of that will be replaced..they say that mechinism was damaged by the fluid and needs to be replaced..they did show me that the "part" is 5 grand and with labor it will cost 7500.I talked to them today and with waving my diognostic charges they can complete the job for 6 grand... i did ask if there was anyway to repair it without replacing the 5000.00 part and they say no..also they told me that if i choose to disable the top and leave it shut and not use it,,everytime i start the car the system test will pump fluid out and i will still have the leak..and let me tell ya the leak was massive..when the rear seats were taken out under the seat was covered with fluid...i mean a disaster took 4 hours to clean.also this 5000.00 part is big with roll bars...the pump the motor etc. oh boy what to do i am close to telling them to just fix it