HELP Clk 430 stuck in P with BAS ESP ABS warning lights
#1
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ck430 2002
HELP Clk 430 stuck in P with BAS ESP ABS warning lights
Can anybody help me out i can not get my gear out of P? engine stays running with the warning esp and abs lights on constantly
#3
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If the brake light switch fails, and the transmission CU doesn’t get the signal that tells it the brake has been applied, I don’t think it can be shifted from park. As a quick test, have someone check to see if your brake lights work.
The switch is inexpensive and easy to change.
The switch is inexpensive and easy to change.
#4
I had this same problem a few months ago and the car ended up fixing itself. The switches mentioned before seem to go out a lot but as noted are inexpensive. Typically its the brake light switch. If you need to move your car there is a shift lock switch at the base of the gear shift plate. Just slide a pencil down inside and press the switch and it will unlock the shifter, problem is your going to have to do it over and over every time you park until the switch is fixed.
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ck430 2002
Replaced the brake light switch still the same problem and still esp warnings are on the dash. No water or tea or coffee was spilled down the shifter and my brake lights do work. When handbrake is relesed the red handbrake sign is still on with the others. Maybe because my brake pads are low and its not letting me move the car from Park
Last edited by tastoto; 10-03-2008 at 04:21 PM.
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#8
I just came from a MB mechanic shop. They did not even put it on a diagnostic machine. They immediately began ordering a new gear box and told me it would cost 875.00 with labor. I went and bought the brake lite switch module. I hope this works. Does anyone have a step by step in detail of how to change the module?
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just came from a MB mechanic shop. They did not even put it on a diagnostic machine. They immediately began ordering a new gear box and told me it would cost 875.00 with labor. I went and bought the brake lite switch module. I hope this works. Does anyone have a step by step in detail of how to change the module?
#10
Thanks, Marcus... No spills i found a penny or two down there but no spills. Is there a way to tell if replacing the brake lite switch will work, my abs light come on every once in a while but the go off.
#11
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I just came from a MB mechanic shop. They did not even put it on a diagnostic machine. They immediately began ordering a new gear box and told me it would cost 875.00 with labor. I went and bought the brake lite switch module. I hope this works. Does anyone have a step by step in detail of how to change the module?
The switch can be changed in 5 to 10 minutes by someone who's done it before. It may take twenty minutes for someone who's never seen it before.
To get to the switch, the plastic cover under the dash (above the brake pedal, and below the steering column) must be lowered. It is lowered by removing the four Phillips head screws that hold the plastic cover in place - three across the front edge and one on the left, near the hood release. Next, the vent cover on the transmission tunnel must be removed. The vent cover has a Phillips head screw that should be rotated a quarter turn counter clockwise. At that point, the vent cover can be pulled out, and the plastic cover can be lowered (not removed) from the front.
With the cover lowered, the switch can be accessed. The old switch will look like one in the attached photo. To remove it, rotate the switch a quarter turn clockwise, and pull it back. The switch on a 2002 CLK has two electrical plugs with three wires on each one. After noting which side of the switch each electrical plug is plugged in on, the plugs from the old switch can be transferred to the new one.
On these cars, the brake light switch is a normal wear part. The switch costs $10 (MBCA discount), so it's easier to change than check. I'd change it and see if the problem
#12
BAS ESP ABS can not move out of Park
BAS ESP ABS can not move out of Park If you got BAS ESP and ABS warning light and can not shift out of Park position. Do this: Press on the brake and have someone check the brake light, if not, the Stoplight switch is bad, remove cover above the brake pedal, press on brake and tap on the switch and see if the cylinder release or not, this will let you move out of Park.
If the Brake or Stoplight switch is bad, the computer won't allow you to shift out of Park because it think you are not press on the brake.
This part is around $20 and 30 minutes to replace.
If the Brake or Stoplight switch is bad, the computer won't allow you to shift out of Park because it think you are not press on the brake.
This part is around $20 and 30 minutes to replace.
#13
It sounds like the car is in limp mode. This usually happens on CLKs when a drink is spilled of it gets wet around the shifter/cup holder area. This exact problem happened to me and I had to replace the board under the shifter. It only comes with a new shifter and it is $400. It was also a pretty tough job.
To get it out of park there is a little door or window close to the shifter. You stick a pen or something like that in the flap and it releases the shifter out of park.
To get it out of park there is a little door or window close to the shifter. You stick a pen or something like that in the flap and it releases the shifter out of park.
#14
MarcusF's instructions worked for me.
Part was $27 bucks at the dealer. Time spent was about 15 minutes.
I have a 2003 CLK 430 convertible. (A208)
I had the same symptoms. No spills near shifter, went to shift car out of park, didn't budge, occasionally gave me BAS/ESP/ABS errors when pushing on the brake. Checked the forums, saw the potential issue, checked my brake lights. No lights. Followed MarcusF's instructions (wouldn't have had the courage without them and the accompanying picture). Pulled out the brake light switch, called two dealerships both had it in stock; one quoted $27 and the other $40. Stopped by dealership, picked up the part (no plastic wrapper/box/anything of any kind). It looked EXACTLY like the other one, so I'm not sure what was wrong with the old one. Slapped in the new part, worked like a charm.
I figured I'd upload a few pictures and anecdotes to help anyone else out who might stop by.
Additional pics for steps in MarcusF's instructions:
"It is lowered by removing the four Phillips head screws that hold the plastic cover in place - three across the front edge and one on the left, near the hood release"
"Next, the vent cover on the transmission tunnel must be removed."
"To remove it, rotate the switch a quarter turn clockwise, and pull it back." ADDITIONAL NOTE: In order to remove it, there is small lever/button on its left that you must press. Squeeze this lever (to release a latch) and while still keeping it depressed, turn the brake switch a quarter turn clockwise, then pull it out.
Front view of brake switch.
I have a 2003 CLK 430 convertible. (A208)
I had the same symptoms. No spills near shifter, went to shift car out of park, didn't budge, occasionally gave me BAS/ESP/ABS errors when pushing on the brake. Checked the forums, saw the potential issue, checked my brake lights. No lights. Followed MarcusF's instructions (wouldn't have had the courage without them and the accompanying picture). Pulled out the brake light switch, called two dealerships both had it in stock; one quoted $27 and the other $40. Stopped by dealership, picked up the part (no plastic wrapper/box/anything of any kind). It looked EXACTLY like the other one, so I'm not sure what was wrong with the old one. Slapped in the new part, worked like a charm.
I figured I'd upload a few pictures and anecdotes to help anyone else out who might stop by.
Additional pics for steps in MarcusF's instructions:
"It is lowered by removing the four Phillips head screws that hold the plastic cover in place - three across the front edge and one on the left, near the hood release"
"Next, the vent cover on the transmission tunnel must be removed."
"To remove it, rotate the switch a quarter turn clockwise, and pull it back." ADDITIONAL NOTE: In order to remove it, there is small lever/button on its left that you must press. Squeeze this lever (to release a latch) and while still keeping it depressed, turn the brake switch a quarter turn clockwise, then pull it out.
Front view of brake switch.
#15
My 2nd one is coming in the mail today.... Man I hope this fixes the issue.......
What makes me think that it may not fix the problem is that I have no issue getting out of park. Just no brake lights and errors as soon as I step on the brake to shift out of park.
What makes me think that it may not fix the problem is that I have no issue getting out of park. Just no brake lights and errors as soon as I step on the brake to shift out of park.
#16
Thanks No Bias and everyone else.
I came out of the market at Midnight a mile and a half from home and all these symptoms came up. Walked home thinking about towing fees and repair costs.
Read these postings. Walked back to car and got it in gear. Went to MB dealer and got the part $29.95. Installed, following the instructions here. I am now a happy camper!!!!
I came out of the market at Midnight a mile and a half from home and all these symptoms came up. Walked home thinking about towing fees and repair costs.
Read these postings. Walked back to car and got it in gear. Went to MB dealer and got the part $29.95. Installed, following the instructions here. I am now a happy camper!!!!
#17
Senior Member
Had the same issues and replaced my Brake Light Switch... The car still wont shift out of Park AND the reverse light is "on" or "lit" for some reason?
Second issue is that theres a 2 second delay when starting the car. I will turn the key and hold it in the crank position and 2 seconds later, it cranks and fires up. Is this a sign of a CPS going bad?
Please help...
Second issue is that theres a 2 second delay when starting the car. I will turn the key and hold it in the crank position and 2 seconds later, it cranks and fires up. Is this a sign of a CPS going bad?
Please help...
#18
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2000 CLK 430
i replaced mine twice already, and the last time it happened , i just pulled the switch out and it was jammed in, popped it back out sanded it down and put it back in. i guess over time the top of that toggle flared out and it got jammed causing the computer to think the brake switch jammed.
g
g
#19
There is a flap right under the D (Drive). Get something really narrow that will fit (chop stick) Put it in that space under the D until you reach the bottom. Once you reach the bottom you will hear a little click sound and you will then be able to take the gear out of P. Could be your brake switch sensor. That's what it was for me. I kept using the chop stick for months....long story but it works!!!
#20
Part was $27 bucks at the dealer. Time spent was about 15 minutes.
I have a 2003 CLK 430 convertible. (A208)
I had the same symptoms. No spills near shifter, went to shift car out of park, didn't budge, occasionally gave me BAS/ESP/ABS errors when pushing on the brake. Checked the forums, saw the potential issue, checked my brake lights. No lights. Followed MarcusF's instructions (wouldn't have had the courage without them and the accompanying picture). Pulled out the brake light switch, called two dealerships both had it in stock; one quoted $27 and the other $40. Stopped by dealership, picked up the part (no plastic wrapper/box/anything of any kind). It looked EXACTLY like the other one, so I'm not sure what was wrong with the old one. Slapped in the new part, worked like a charm.
I figured I'd upload a few pictures and anecdotes to help anyone else out who might stop by.
Additional pics for steps in MarcusF's instructions:
"It is lowered by removing the four Phillips head screws that hold the plastic cover in place - three across the front edge and one on the left, near the hood release"
"Next, the vent cover on the transmission tunnel must be removed."
"To remove it, rotate the switch a quarter turn clockwise, and pull it back." ADDITIONAL NOTE: In order to remove it, there is small lever/button on its left that you must press. Squeeze this lever (to release a latch) and while still keeping it depressed, turn the brake switch a quarter turn clockwise, then pull it out.
Front view of brake switch.
I have a 2003 CLK 430 convertible. (A208)
I had the same symptoms. No spills near shifter, went to shift car out of park, didn't budge, occasionally gave me BAS/ESP/ABS errors when pushing on the brake. Checked the forums, saw the potential issue, checked my brake lights. No lights. Followed MarcusF's instructions (wouldn't have had the courage without them and the accompanying picture). Pulled out the brake light switch, called two dealerships both had it in stock; one quoted $27 and the other $40. Stopped by dealership, picked up the part (no plastic wrapper/box/anything of any kind). It looked EXACTLY like the other one, so I'm not sure what was wrong with the old one. Slapped in the new part, worked like a charm.
I figured I'd upload a few pictures and anecdotes to help anyone else out who might stop by.
Additional pics for steps in MarcusF's instructions:
"It is lowered by removing the four Phillips head screws that hold the plastic cover in place - three across the front edge and one on the left, near the hood release"
"Next, the vent cover on the transmission tunnel must be removed."
"To remove it, rotate the switch a quarter turn clockwise, and pull it back." ADDITIONAL NOTE: In order to remove it, there is small lever/button on its left that you must press. Squeeze this lever (to release a latch) and while still keeping it depressed, turn the brake switch a quarter turn clockwise, then pull it out.
Front view of brake switch.
#23
you can try taking it out to see if it needs to be adjusted, and/or give it a shot of silicone spray.
-J
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2008 e320 bluetec/2002 CLK 320 Cabrioloet
Thank you
I have a 2002 clk 320 cabriolet with 68000 miles.
My transmission became stuck in park. Lucky for me,
It happened after I returned home and the car was garaged.
I was able to search the problem and found this great string of responses
To the problem. I ordered the part from my local mb dealer, $29.37 and was able to easily exchange the brake light switch in 30 minutes. Note I am not a mechanic so it probably took me longer than most. Bottom line is the transmission releases from park, brake lights work, and no ABS fault lights. The car drives fine.
The posts and pictures were helpful. Thanks to NOBiUS, MarcusF, and all others
My transmission became stuck in park. Lucky for me,
It happened after I returned home and the car was garaged.
I was able to search the problem and found this great string of responses
To the problem. I ordered the part from my local mb dealer, $29.37 and was able to easily exchange the brake light switch in 30 minutes. Note I am not a mechanic so it probably took me longer than most. Bottom line is the transmission releases from park, brake lights work, and no ABS fault lights. The car drives fine.
The posts and pictures were helpful. Thanks to NOBiUS, MarcusF, and all others
Last edited by Doctaz; 07-15-2015 at 10:51 AM.
#25
i have had this problem for several months now. i have replaced the stoplight switch about 8 times in a year. i replaced it 4 times this month alone. the first three times the brake lights worked for about a week then the bas esp no brake light issue happened again. the fourth time it did not solve the problem. What else could it be? it shifts out of park just fine just no brake lights.
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