Pauljay

Hey guys!

Iv'e just spent 3hrs writting about how good the rear struts were only to be thrown off the system again and again! So here's a much shorter version!

The bars are brilliant! Full stop.

My ride is smoother, I have less body roll, more grip and I haven't lost my ride quality.

They compliment my Bilstein struts and Eibach springs with Bilstein sway bars nicely. My only gripe is that the bars only tighten one way which means that which ever bar you tighten pulls the base off it's pad slightly (look at the first pic). This was much worse before I noticed and I had to re-do the lot making sure that both bases had good grounds.

As you can see I retained my boot space and I didn't even have to cut my boot lining. I just folded the lining around the bar.

This bar is an excellent buy for anyone wanting a more sporty ride although if you don't have springs and sway bars your result won't be as tight!

Well done VIP!

sick430

Congrads nice install, looking really good bro! make sure its on tight! i really love mine and can feel the difference through the canyons.

Velociabstract

So what is the best way to adjust it? Pushing the shock towers away or pulling them in? I assume pushing them out but I'm curious just the same.

I can't tell you how many times I've lost long well thought out posts. Now if I plan on more than a few lines I write in a word document and cut and paste it.

Les

Pauljay

Hi Les.

You adjust the bars strength by screwing the strut towers IN-WARDS for more, OUT for less.

You can only adjust screwing in on one side though because screwing the other way is for width adjustment.

Ps, my girlfriend has just told me about word also, WHERE was she earlier .

Sick430.

I played around with it and tightened it too tight I think. The ride was awful. It felt what I imagine a low rider would feel like bouncing around Harshly.
Now though it's perfect. I can feel a big difference through the bends .

Velociabstract

I'll experiment when mine arrives. I had the impression that the strut towers wanted to move inwards under high cornering stress but it makes sense that if one side wants to move in under stress the other side will want to move out. I can't wait to test the strut bar myself.

Les

VIPclk320

Just like Pauljay said inwards for tightness and out for loosness. do not tie them too much because your ride quality will be crap. being adjustable makes it more user friendly but at the same time if you tie too much you will make your ride quality crappy.

vizionclk430

Haven't recieved mine yet so trying to understand you can adjust it after its bolted in the car so its not changing the length of the bar just how tight or loose the ride is?

Pauljay

Hi Vizion.

From fiddling around with my set up I understand that you can adjust for tightness and width while the bar is bolted to the car.

Screwing the adjuster in one direction shortens the bar and tightens the ride by pulling the strut towers in. If you screwed the adjuster in the other direction it would loosen the bar. Keep turning and the adjuster would tighten, but as the threads on each bar are opposite you would now be unscrewing the thread in the opposite bar there by lengthening the bar and widening the width.

The best way is to adjust for width first by screwing the bars into the adjuster so that both have equal thread left, keeping the hole to adjust centered. Now install the bar and bolt down then screw the adjuster in to pull on the towers and tighten your ride.

Hope that helps.

You'll love it when it arrives!

VIPclk320

Thanks Pauljay for the explanation and the comments. Hey everyone ther are still 2 more left.

vizionclk430

Thanks pauljay hopefully it should be here this week usps tracking was down earlier when I tried to check it. can't wait

sirswift93

Does anyone have a photo of there right rear shock tower? I need to make a weld repair to the sheet metal next to my right rear shock tower. See attached picture. I need to know if it should be flat like the left side or have to bow to it for the fuel fill line.

Thank!

vip4u2c

Where did you order the strut tower from, and what was the price as well? Do you have adjustable camber arm installed to make adjustments to it as needed? I plan to get the camber arms and install the camber arms and note there is a special tool for installing. Where is a good place to get the tool? I wonder why AMG didn't bother to include this adjustable, especially from the lowering from AMG the way this car comes to bring it back some from where it ends up 3deg- (many people may not prefer that much) and so much is the inside tire wear back there. I see what looks like a good unit from a place in TX. A german mech I know says his son has a camber kit installed on his car that he is really happy with and is looking into what it is.

sirswift93

My body shop is ordering it through a dealership. He said the inside fender with the shock mount is $1500! It's the whole piece though; the inside right fender and the bracket for the shock. They drill out all the weld points and weld back in a new fender well with shock tower. If you remove the well liner you can actually see the weld point covered with seam sealer.

I will look up the camber arms for you. I was actually going to get a new set as there are some real nice ones on eBay now which are under $200.

sirswift93

Here is the listing number on eBay for the camber rods I purchased.

301269203431

vip4u2c

That's quite a job. This isn't like a strut tower brace (no three bolts on top)? Here is link for camber are I was thinking looked best. But that's without seeing or user feedback.

http://topspeedauto.com/mercedes-ben...ber-arms-pair/
What you think on these?

Scott Simoncic

I want one of these for sure!

dlbehrns

How the hell did you do that?

dlbehrns

if you are not lowering your car to any great extent you won't need to adjust the rear camber. I had and still have Vogtland sport springs(for sale now) that lowered the car about an inch all around so along with strut bars the car cornered like a go-cart. even though I put different adjustable camber bars on the rear the camber was not off enough to require adjustable rear camber bars. FWIW.

K-Mac

Fact is “Full front and rear wheel alignment” is no more!


Since the mid ‘90 model’s, with the ever increasing speed of vehicle assembly lines there has been no front or rear Camber (or front Caster) adjustment facility fitted OEM


Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe!

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, and fix steering pull the only current alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts (for the front only). But these are inaccurate - one only position bolts - offering a minimal .3 of one degree adjustment (3mm / 1/8”).

It’s no wonder many owners continually change tire brands or go from one MB Dealer or alignment shop to another trying to get it right/fix the problem!


We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) fully adjustable front (and rear) suspension for virtually all models.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of these one only position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike these one position bolts they can be accurately adjusted on car(under load) direct on alignment turntable (no need for labor intensive removal/replacement each time).


Providing ongoing full, precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels, curb knock damage or being able to quickly fine tune/change specs on race days (extra Negative/plus track width to go deeper into the corners/lower lap times). With the unique K-MAC patented design only requiring use of a single wrench/no disassembly.

For the rear, similar kits for precise Camber adjustment (with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility). Importantly unlike the alternative rear adjustable Camber control arms available K-MAC kits do not move top of tire outwards - this reducing essential clearance top of tire to outer fender when adjusting to fix premature inner edge tire wear/improve rear traction.


Also instead of spherical bearings as used on control arms which prematurely pound out allowing metal to metal contact. At K-MAC we have developed long life elastomer bushings.


Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are also designed with twice the load bearing area and replace the highest wearing suspension bushings. And with K-MAC no special tools are required to fit.


Note (Product background re bushings): Majority OEM bushes have air voids to allow 2 axis movement. So control arms can travel through their required arcs without binding, locking up.


Essential with today’s modern designs of “multi-link” arms with different angle mount points!


Yet most “aftermarket” replacement bushes the industry standard is to eliminate these air voids in an attempt to improve both steering response and reduce wheel hop, loss of traction under brake and acceleration.


The opposite is often the case – the elimination of the air voids causes even more severe wheel hop, loss of traction through binding, locking up of arms.


K-MAC bushes – with 50 years now of bush technology are designed without the air voids but where needed with “full 2 axis movement”. Result is power to the ground – maximum traction/acceleration/braking - along with noticeably improved directional control and steering response for highway driving, lane changing.

Pauljay

Thanks K-Mac!

Guys, I can vouch for K-Mac bushes! I have their kit.

The whole kit (front and rear) is expensive AND you have to pay import tax too (at least in the UK). But the ride, control and sporty feeling is fantastic! Not to mention I now have the correct tire alignment as my car is lowered.

The adjustment is brilliant, yet so simple (one nut). I had an Indie install mine who does club racing and the set up he dialled in is awesome!

K-MAC bushes and strut bars, definitely worth the $$$s for a really sporty drive!

Chadzu

I installed the k-Mac front kit yesterday. I was impressed with the quality, and the parts to help remove the old bushings and install the new ones were a life saver. The kit has enough adjustment to completely fix the front camber on my lowered clk55. I have the rear kit ready to go for next weekend.