Crazy electrical lights flickering

[jonUF02]

If insurance paid for repair of the accident damage, then I would go back and fight with the repair shop and insurance company to get it fixed or total it out.

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[VIPclk320]

off the top of my head i can tell you the following:

the reverser light wiring color: yellow/silver & yellow white
lisence plate lights wiring color: green/brown & green/white
the rear fog lamp i'm not sure what color because i disconnected mine a long time ago.

there is a Brown cable that goes in the trunk lid which then splits into 6 or 7 bracnches. everything on the trunk lid shares the same ground its just the (+) thats different. also keep in mind that each side reverse light and each side lisence plate light has a seperate (+) wire and thats why on the top you see two wires for each. Ive been looking for an schomatics for my 55 Engine swap for months and haven't been able to find one so if you find it i would appreciate a copy.

the wire channel is above the wheel arch area insude the trunk and then they goe throu a hole about 3inces in diameter and come out behinde the passenger side side panel(leather panel) and then from there they go to the wire tunnel under the front door seal.

[nicgentile]

Well. I haven't had the body fixed yet from the original accident. Another long drawn out story. Been trying to get a bumper and side skirts that I want and have gotten nothing but lied to and cheated by bodykits.net. DO NOT do business with these guys. For real. I involved the BBB and
Now they are blatantly lying in their replies to the BBB.

But that's another story entirely. I may just have to contact my insurance co. And see if we can get a suplimental adjustment.

VIP - thank you. I will have someone begin to trace wires tomorrow. Those color codes will be helpful.

Anyone else?

[nicgentile]

Originally Posted by VIPclk320

off the top of my head i can tell you the following:

the reverser light wiring color: yellow/silver & yellow white
lisence plate lights wiring color: green/brown & green/white
the rear fog lamp i'm not sure what color because i disconnected mine a long time ago.

there is a Brown cable that goes in the trunk lid which then splits into 6 or 7 bracnches. everything on the trunk lid shares the same ground its just the (+) thats different. also keep in mind that each side reverse light and each side lisence plate light has a seperate (+) wire and thats why on the top you see two wires for each. Ive been looking for an schomatics for my 55 Engine swap for months and haven't been able to find one so if you find it i would appreciate a copy.

the wire channel is above the wheel arch area insude the trunk and then they goe throu a hole about 3inces in diameter and come out behinde the passenger side side panel(leather panel) and then from there they go to the wire tunnel under the front door seal.

Do you happen to recall where that common ground terminates?

[jonUF02]

It' probably not an issue with the ground unless the main ground is loose, but maybe an issue with one of the + wires that got crushed and touching ground. I think I would start with throroughly checking all the bulb sockets and connections behind them.

[nicgentile]

Had a bit of time. Tried to trade anything I could. The rear fog appears to be green/white. Based on elimination.

I traced this wire as best I could. Def did not see every cm as it weaver through the trunk. Picked it up again in the passenger side wiring tunnel. It appears to be "ok" as much as I can see anyway.

I'm tempted to cut it in 1/2 in the wire tunnel and then trace 1/2 and 1/2 to know which end the potential short lies in.

I also took the cover off the SAM and unplugged and reseated all the relays.

Nothing unsual there as far as I can see.

My only hope is that someone who knows more then me will be able to look at my car soon. :/

[nicgentile]

I originally asked where the ground in the trunk branch terminates to ground. With having multiple lights acting up it made more sense to me that it is and issue with the ground then the +

Had a multimeter out today and checked the rear fog lamp and reverse lights.

The BROWN wire is coming up hot on all these connectors. So I'm getting +12v through the BROWN ground wire.

As I begin to unravel all this it becomes more and more apparent that this issue is insane.

[nicgentile]

Car is at Dealership #2

They can not get into the trunk. $850 to drill and replace the lock. Before they even get started.


....here we goo

[jonUF02]

WOW... I would just punch out the plastic behind the back seat arm rest and pull the seat release before I would pay that $850. There has got to be another way. Every other car I have owned with a folding back seat has a way to release them from inside the cabin.

[CJackson13]

Originally Posted by nicgentile

Car is at Dealership #2

They can not get into the trunk. $850 to drill and replace the lock. Before they even get started.


....here we goo

WOW! That is total BS! . Granted, a few years ago i did have a broken trunk lock, but once I heard the $700 it was to fix, I pulled the car. However, they fixed it before I paid, so essentially it was free! ...so some good can come from the dealership. But man that's rough, I really hope everything works out the way you want.

[nicgentile]

Originally Posted by jonUF02

WOW... I would just punch out the plastic behind the back seat arm rest and pull the seat release before I would pay that $850. There has got to be another way. Every other car I have owned with a folding back seat has a way to release them from inside the cabin.

CLK430 convertible. Back seats do not fold.

[Pauljay]

If your cover for the top hasn't been opened your roof will operate and you can get into the boot from the roof opening.

If the cover HAS been left open and the roof is now inoperable, you're stuck!

[VIPclk320]

have you tried simply putting the key blade in the trunk lock, turning it and pressing it in? more than likely the trunk doesnt open because of the trunk light switch that is not sitting in a proper position. The trunk lock is pretty much nothing but a arm thats moved with the air compressor, same one that operates the door locks.

[nicgentile]

Originally Posted by VIPclk320

have you tried simply putting the key blade in the trunk lock, turning it and pressing it in? more than likely the trunk doesnt open because of the trunk light switch that is not sitting in a proper position. The trunk lock is pretty much nothing but a arm thats moved with the air compressor, same one that operates the door locks.

Yup. Tried that. The first night this issue started new years day. I got the mech key in and turning. It never engages the mechanism.
Plus my clk is 50 miles away at the dealer now.
But thanks! I thought you gave up on me

[nicgentile]

Day 18:
My CLK is still at dealership #2.
Good news: problem solved! (so I'm told)
Bad news: invoice currently @ $2,000 (so I'm told)
There WAS a short in the trunk lid. Service advisor didn't know the exact details of where. (I hope to talk to the tech when I pick it up) next Monday.
Thanks to everyone for trying to help.

[VIPclk320]

glad to hear it was fixed. I knew it was there and i called it, thats why i gave you the coloring for the wires and asked you to check every wire individually and check the ligts on the trunk lid. sorry to hear about the price though.

[nicgentile]

Originally Posted by VIPclk320

glad to hear it was fixed. I knew it was there and i called it, thats why i gave you the coloring for the wires and asked you to check every wire individually and check the ligts on the trunk lid. sorry to hear about the price though.

I traced them as much as I could visually. When the brown ground started coming up hot. That is when I lost hope.
Believe it or not I'm actually excited to meet the tech and have him explain it to me. Just not so thrilled about the price tag.
:/

[nicgentile]

P.S. This issue was unrelated to my accident and I will have to pay out of pocket.

[CJackson13]

Nice to hear it's going to be okay! Sorry about the price man, but best of luck to you and your ride!

[nicgentile]

I am officially back on the road. Thanks again ever one for your help. In the end it was the best $2202.98 I never wanted to spend.

The car was gone for like two weeks. The second week I couldn't get to it. Soooo I had some other stuff done while it sat there for a week.

Trunk had to get drilled out and locks replaces, just so they could get in to the trunk. (approx $850)

Spent a whole lot of labor trying to the find shorted wire.

!!!!! Which ended up being INSIDE the rubber "conduit/boot" that runs out the trunk up into the trunk lid !!!!!!

Something like $1000 on labor (I don't have my papers in front of me)

Got the trans fluid changed $3xx.xx
Got a leaking trans gasket replaced $120.xx
Trunk leaked. I was afraid that that was how this problem started. Trunk weather stripping/gasket $2xx.xx

I could have had them working for months doing ish to my car. The only thing I WISH I would have had the extra funds to get done is replace the cables in the soft top. My top crashes down at the end of a cycle if I don't catch it. I'll have it done before spring time $518.00

Anyway. 100,300 miles. And she's back on the road! Good as new. I should get a grill badge just for all the stress I been through.