I have been doing a ton of research and looking through threads, but not very many people received this code during a failed MAF, I surely do have symptoms of a failed MAF but just want to make sure before I purchase, I also heard it could maybe be the Throttle sensor with the cable?
The car also smells pretty fumey when idling in garage, more so than before, and its very sluggish like many people have stated, I have VIPs intake and hope it didnt have any adverse affects on my MAF because I have only had the intake about 6 months, I have never replaced the MAF since I have had the car and its been 100k and who knows before that, I read that cleaning may fix it for a little bit but not always,
p0100 is Mass Air Flow Circuit malfunction, could that be the actual electrical connection that MAF plugs into, or probly just the MAF its self?
Any help is greatly appreciated, I know this has been discussed may times, but not very many people pulled the p0100 code that I am referring to, and that is why I am asking for extra help, and any is greatly appreciated, I will clean to see if it helps. let me know if you have any help, thanks!
P.S. I also just cleaned my EGR valve and hose about 2 weeks ago after receiving the code for the EGR valve, the car ran really well up until yesterday, just throwing that out there incase it might make a difference?
I would change it. Cleaning is a short fix but does sometimes help. If you get a new MAF, get a Bosch from Autohauz....not an ebay cheapo. The diy is about 15 minutes. Be sure that as you put on the air filter that it totally seats into the MAF housing or else it will cause incorrect readings to the computer. Hope that helps.
2010 GLK350 4Matic Paladium Silver
2002 black CLK 55,Lorinser roof spoiler, illuminated AMG door sills, Eurocommand by Steve, black birdseye maple shift knob/door handles/arm rest, quad exhaust
I tried cleaning it and the light came right back on, It runs decent for a while, then starts acting all sluggish again, running really ****ty at times. Does any one know if I can just buy the actual sensor from a reputable oem parts place, all I seem to be able to find is the housing and sensor, and since my housing is on really tight with my cold air intake, I would much rather just purchase the new sensor.
For all I know this could be the original at 246k.. I bought the car with 125k on it and I know it had not been done prior to that owner. So who knows, I cleaned it pretty well with some Mass Air sensor cleaner, and used a little Q tip to try and wipe it down a little, I also used electrical cleaner to clean the connections, It didn't really seem to do much at all, thats why I am hesitant to buy the MAF. I hope thats the culprit.
Purchased the Bosch sensor from Amazon for 130 shipped, just the sensor w/o the housing, I sure hope it is a genuine Bosch part. But it wont be here for about 5 days, should I worry about driving my car the next few days? It doesnt stall but I am worried it will, also dont want to risk damaging the cats, or o2 sensors.
P0100 alone, is pretty uncommon code to get for the MAF but from my research it does usually seem to be the culprit. Let me know if you guys have further input.
Bump, can anyone chime in, if its bad to drive with a bad maf, I am waiting for the part to be shipped, but am forced to still drive my car. It doesnt run hot and runs fine on the free way it seems, its just extra sluggish getting going and using anything over half throttle.
You can do a simple A/B test. Drive the car with the original MAF disconnected. If it definitely behaves worse, then it is not likely the MAF. It it behaves the same then it could be the MAF. Test would give you a bit of direct info which you could use to make your best call on the problem. The dealerships spend most of their time guessing at problems anyway, at your expense. They just install parts until they stumble upon a solution.
After you get the new module, then compare the behavior of your vehicle with the original, and with the new module. Electronic parts ate typically not returnable.
Another thing to check for is a loose vacuum line. A couple of years ago, I had codes and a surging idle which drove me nuts, trying to diagnose the problem for a month or so. Someone mentioned a vacuum line, and I pulled the airbox and spent about 15 minutes, and voila, it was painfully evident, and my car was running sweet again. No parts. Didn't get dirty. Took 5 seconds to re-attach. Just good advice about the obvious.
Forum's been very slow and low on info these days. Might be the holidays.
CLK430 Cabriolet, bought it new in year 2000, Chassis# W208, Trans#722.623, Engine #113.943
Thank you Pancho, I did un plug and drive around yesterday and it was the same, I dont even know where to start with a vacuum line, I have an aftermarket cold air intake, so I dont have the stock airbox. Will keep looking around,
PS. Can it damage the car if I have a to drive around a couple days with a bad MAF? I dont want to risk damaging the o2 sensors or the catalytic converters.