clk 320 roof wont work

[Top Hydraulics]

Originally Posted by luckychuckie1 Well the leak is not a mystery. Right under the plastic reservoir is a good size oil stain so my guess is the seal is between the pump and reservoir is the location of the leak. May be accumulation from years? Could it be a blow out from my pushing on the button and it getting stuck? I have a power probe. Once full, and new relay, I would like to jump the switch so I could watch from in trunk what happens? Possible? You won't see much even if you go through the trouble of defeating interlocks (micro switches) in the rear and having someone push the button in the front. Only turning on the motor with the power probe doesn't move the cylinders. With an oil puddle in that area, it's time to replace at least rear bow lock cylinder and case cover lock cylinder. It doesn't matter how long the fluid has been accumulating - your leaks are massive now! You can move the top manually if you open the relief valve on the pump. The white cone on the pump is a guide for a flat screwdriver to open or close the valve. The rear bow lock can be moved manually with a 6-mm Allen wrench, and the case cover lock can be moved with a narrow 10-mm open wrench. Equipped with this knowledge, you can move the top manually and examine the two aluminum cylinder mentioned above and the five black cylinders (the main lift cylinders, the bow cylinders, and the case cover lift cylinder) for leaks. If the motor doesn't turn at all with the new relay in place, then you can figure out positive and negative lead going to the motor and use your power probe to make absolutely sure it's the motor that's burnt out. Let's hope you won't have to do that... Klaus

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[luckychuckie1]

I was hoping not to continue this thread. New relay and some fluid. I hold down the headrest down button for many minutes and nothing. But I am not surprised. The roof wants to go down but physical can't. The headrest are fully extended to the point where they are touching the top. I am wondering if they are in a fully extended roll over stuck lock position. If so how do I unlock them? Are they controlled by the pump? How do I manually lower them? Do I need to do a reset to the pump so it knows that it as changed?

[luckychuckie1]

OK - got some coffee in me. Found the tool and section about lowering headrest. Realized I push the button to go down yesterday. In rereading. Hold the button in the up position for 8 seconds. Than push down. I love you Mercedes! Your a quirky crazy chick! But if you got the patience to play her games... I may to a reboot - pull battery- worried-seen some bad things happen after a battery disconnect.
I am running out of options and my friend Klaus may be getting a package. I rather get a package from Santa "Klaus". But I got a boat to prep

[luckychuckie1]

Roof Stuck due to roll bar. But I am determine to fix this myself. So I have been removing parts like meat from a chicken. I am down to the the bones and need help mates. Whats next? I replaced the relay and pressing the headrest button in either direction gives me a metalic click from the right side, facing the rollbar. But that's it... Other than maintance the car has been good. But I hear of people spending up to $6000 to get this problem fixed. It worked perfect the day before the headrest locked up. We hear that a defective relay causes this problem, for which MB has since replaced. HELP PLEASE!!!

[Markarelius3]

I have the exact same problem. Pump motor spins but not pressure to the solenoids on the headrest. Want to lower RB manually, but cant figure it out. Keep us posted as to what you figured out.

[Benznbeemerz]

Hello mb lover I'm benznbeemerz I have the same problem now and thanks luckiechukie1 I got to do this by myself ....but I want to give lots of credit to the person who wrote the thread step by step..I so happen to film a little of what the compartment looks like when you actually take it apart and I also have pictures. In my car my top was working fine until one day it started to struggle and heard a funny noise while trying to close it after that it stopped working to the point that it didn't close properly.the next day I came here and read the thread but no pics it took me 3 1/2 hours to take it apart and refill it with hydronic fluid which I'll show the exact one to buy on my video.long story short it had a leak bc I kept seeing hydronic fluid on my truck lid so I took it apart too and there was the leak the oil cylinder latch $130 on amazon.com I haven't changed it yet I'm still waiting one it.the video is going up on YouTube look for it under kingofnewyork3 or Benz convertible problem. Thanks

[Benznbeemerz]

It's up and by the way if you pop the trunk manually with the key and do all the work from the back and you fill it up with some hydrolic fluid or change the relay the top does it's job on its own instead of opening it manually that could potentially mess it up .the video is up on YouTube enjoy.

[Benznbeemerz]

Check out this video on YouTube:

You Tube

You Tube

[gary450sl]

ive found out that my pump motor had burnt out so ive had it rebuilt and ive fitted it but all i get now is louder clicking noises coming from the boot im not sure if its the ecu or the pump relay any ideas on how to get the pump working do i have to bleed it or reset it in any way thanks from gary

[luckychuckie1]

I had the rebuild done by tophydraulics and did the reinstall. 30 hrs later success!!!!!

Seriously, I now could do it in under 3 hours. But it did take me 30 hours to fix. The first 10 I did not know what I was looking for and took apart way more than I needed too. But that only helped me later when things got confusing.

I took ABOUT 20 photos. There is as many steps to this as.... I don't know but lets say 40 plus. If you follow every step, it's as hard as baking a cake.

But it can get really crazy. If the top gets out of sync with the sensors, you could get really frustrated!

There are times to go at it from the top and times from the trunk. Times when things need to be clicked locked (3 of them) and times not.

Any way. I will gladly share this info for free. You should have seen some of my photos with text in previous posts. This is what I will do with each step.

I just want to make sure it gets saved as I read many posts that sent me in the wrong direction in other threads.

I been REALLY busy and have not had the chance to write it up and it will take a while.

If your reading this and are in the middle of this nightmare; and I have not published the step by step yet - you have my permission to send me a private email. Include your name and number and when it is ok to call as that may be the fastest way to help you.

If your reading this and wondering why I wrote REFUND.
It says REFUND because I will be presenting information that may prove Mercedes knew about a flaw. And that this flaw which they did correct LATER would have prevented damage to our hydraulics.
If you would like me to keep you informed of any refunds (Past, Present, or Future) send me your contact information and approximately how much you spent on this needless repair and I will keep you notified.
(I HIGHLY DOUBT THIS IS A REFUND THAT WILL OCCUR BY MERCEDES LOOKING FOR PEOPLE WHO HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR THIS REPAIR)

[luckychuckie1]

I had the rebuild done by tophydraulics and did the reinstall. 30 hrs later success!!!!!

Seriously, I now could do it in under 3 hours. But it did take me 30 hours to fix. The first 10 I did not know what I was looking for and took apart way more than I needed too. But that only helped me later when things got confusing.

I took ABOUT 20 photos. There is as many steps to this as.... I don't know but lets say 40 plus. If you follow every step, it's as hard as baking a cake.

But it can get really crazy. If the top gets out of sync with the sensors, you could get really frustrated!

There are times to go at it from the top and times from the trunk. Times when things need to be clicked locked (3 of them) and times not.

Any way. I will gladly share this info for free. You should have seen some of my photos with text in previous posts. This is what I will do with each step.

I just want to make sure it gets saved as I read many posts that sent me in the wrong direction in other threads.

I been REALLY busy and have not had the chance to write it up and it will take a while.

If your reading this and are in the middle of this nightmare; and I have not published the step by step yet - you have my permission to send me a private email. Include your name and number and when it is ok to call as that may be the fastest way to help you.

If your reading this and wondering why I wrote REFUND.
It says REFUND because I will be presenting information that may prove Mercedes knew about a flaw. And that this flaw which they did correct LATER would have prevented damage to our hydraulics.
If you would like me to keep you informed of any refunds (Past, Present, or Future) send me your contact information and approximately how much you spent on this needless repair and I will keep you notified.
(I HIGHLY DOUBT THIS IS A REFUND THAT WILL OCCUR BY MERCEDES LOOKING FOR PEOPLE WHO HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR THIS REPAIR)

[LHCountryboy]

Hey, Luckie - I have a very similar problem -- @#$% Roll Bar won't go down and something behind the driver's side headrest clicks about every 15 seconds... confounding.
In any case, what did TH rebuild for you -- the pump motor? And how did you get the @#$% Roll Bar to go down? Thanks man.

[ozyael]

Check if there is oil in pump Hhdiraulit