jtoma878

Fellas-

Here's the story. Out of nowhere, key won't turn. I have searched the forums high and low before posting here but here are the symptoms:

Put key in, can hear the steering wheel lock disengage (can turn wheel). However, key will not turn. Battery in vehicle is fully charged, and I am not sure if it matters but the IF in the key fob itself is working (did check w camera phone). Brake light switch replaced as well.

I do not have a spare key to test with.

As for my options, so far I figure I can order a new key to the tune of $150-$200 and hope that's it. If it's not, I'm assuming it's the EIS which would be strange being that it is recognizing the key (steering wheel unlocking) which is $500 for the part, $150 to have them reset the system (plus a tow to dealership).

I know the key, ECU, EIS, and steering wheel lock are all VIN coded. Knowing this, my real question is: If I were to buy a matching (VIN coded) key, ECU, EIS, and steering wheel lock from a vehicle that was being parted out, can I simply install the 3 and be good to go (plug & play)? I can get all of the parts for $200-$300 and if it works it beats the hell out of trying to replace one by one plus I can do the work myself. Also, is a ECU from a M320 or E320 be interchangeable?

Oh, the vehicle is a '01 CLK 320

All thoughts are appreciated....

Joe

Jerry Sommer

If the steering unlocks the key is sending out the proper number. What is not happening is the ECU is not sending a signal back to the EIS to let it turn. There is a small electromagnet in the EIS that lifts up a small tab so the switch can turn. You need to read out the error code to see where the problem is. Sounds like a lack of communication between the switch and the ECU. Jerry in Ohio

jtoma878

Jerry do you have any idea if I swapped those 3 pieces out from another vehicle (along with key) if it would plug and play? I'm thinking of ordering a kit off ebay with a return policy and seeing if that will work. For $250ish it'd be cheaper than even towing & getting codes read.

handy.sandy

i have a similar problem, although slightly different, mine will turn but not every time. when inserting/removing the key there is no whirring noise, again sometimes there is and sometimes there isn't . Can anyone answer jtoma878's
thread can you swap or not

jtoma878

****UPDATE****

So I was not able to find much info at all, so I decided to use some trial and error...

I went ahead and ordered a used EIS, ECM, Steering wheel lock (ESL), and a key that all came from the same donor vehichle ('03 CLK 320 - mine is an '01)

I put all 3 components in and inserted key - BAM! Turned on first try. Battery was dead so after 30 mins hooked up to the charger she fired right up!!!!

New key also works to lock/unlock doors.

The only problem I am having is the controls on the console that control the trunk release, windows & mirrors are now not working. I actually had to hookp the original EIS & ESL to get the trunk open (my key blade doesnt work, never has) - so I know it's not a bad fuse. Funny thing is, I kept the new ECM in when I did this so that doesnt seem to be the problem.

Right now I have the battery disconnected and am trickle charging overnight. I am hoping this will resolve the issue (reset the system)

Oh, and btw - I got the used parts all off ebay for $250. Beats the hell out of $600 for a EIS & $1500 for an ECM + labor @ the dealership!!!

Will keep posted on the problem with the controls. So far, I have a running car again after 3 months!!!!

BTURTURO

I had the same problem with my 2004 C230 until one day the key would not turn at all. I had it towed to the dealer and they said it was probably the smart key that went bad. I didnt have a spare so I had to order a new one and have it programmed ($350). When the key came in it still would not start the car so the dealer said it was the EIS. I had that replaced for ($1200). I just received a call and they are saying that didn't work they need to run further tests. Does anyone have any suggestions what my problem may be?

BTURTURO

I had the same problem with my 2004 C230 until one day the key would not turn at all. I had it towed to the dealer and they said it was probably the smart key that went bad. I didnt have a spare so I had to order a new one and have it programmed ($350). When the key came in it still would not start the car so the dealer said it was the EIS. I had that replaced for ($1200). I just received a call and they are saying that didn't work they need to run further tests. I will keep you posted once I find a solution.

VIPclk320

The reason why your window and trunk controls aren't working is because the donor car was more than likely a convertible, you have to have some one with star system recode the EIS from convertible to hard top and all your stuff will work. I American across the same issue when I did my 55 conversion. How ever I highly recommend figuring out the issue with your original EIS and ECM and key, because you will not be able to order a key for new setup because the VIN is not going to be the VIN that's on your registration.

P.S. you also have to have someone connect to the ECM via start system and change the values from convertible to hardtop because the ECM does its fuel and a bunch of other calculation based on that.

ljlandre

Hi! Having this exact same problem with my car... Just replaced the key & EIS, now dealer says it's most likely the Electronic Steering Lock and I'm wondering if it's even worth it. Any update on what happened with yours? Thanks!

southernwake

Having an issue with my key as well. Drove my car to work yesterday and it was fine, got off work and went to start the car and the key wouldnt turn. The steering wheel is locked and wont release. There is no sound when I put the key into the ignition slot. Key unlocks and locks car just fine. I dont have a spare key ( keep forgetting to get one of ebay and program it).

I replaced the key fob battery and am going to try again after work. I thought about disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU and see if that works. Any suggestions before I take it to have the EIS investigated/ replaced?

Thanks,
Andrew

southernwake

update: Took a few minutes out of my lunch break to go outside and try again, now with a new battery in the key fob. First try it clicked and turned without issue. Hoping it does the same in a couple hours when I leave to go home.

Andrew

rorf

Must still be working ok?

southernwake

Works like a champ! Have been driving it more than my truck just to see if I can get it mess up again and so far no issues.

rorf

Thanks for the feed back and well done - I must say these high tech ignition systems are rather overwhelming especially when things go wrong

grash00

Hello guys I have the same problem with my car. Heres a trick that works for me as I incert the key in the ignition i press the unlock key on the remote i hear the zip sound and turn the key.

grash00

Hello guys I have the same problem with my car. Heres a trick that works for me as I incert the key in the ignition i press the unlock key on the remote i hear the zip sound and turn the key.

jonUF02

There are so many things tied to the ECU that I don't think it would be a good idea to swap it outside of the stealership doing it and properly programming and updating all the VIN numbers and such.

grifter999

so my key doesnt turn also my key no longer locks/unlocks light flashes batteries are good. key turned tring to start then next time locked will not turn will not unlock dead. any ideas?

VasTech

Saved my but. The trick worked for me. I was stuck at work. Pushed the button, heard the buzz, and turned the key!

TYUS

HELLO READERS. MY ISSUE IS THAT THE GREY KEY WORKS, AND MY BLACK KEY DOES EVERYTHING BUT BE RECOGNIZED BY THE IGNITION. A BATTERY CHANGE DIDNT DO IT. ALSO TRIED THE UNLOCK BUTTON WHILE TRYING TO INSERT IT INTO THE IGNITION. NOTHING HAPPENS AND BLACKY WONT GO IN- NO CLICK OR ANYTHING LIKE THE GREY TAB KEY.
-ANY IDEAS.
THANKS IN ADVANCE.
T-

Gardy

Did you ever resolve your issues after swapping the components

Gardy

Did you resolve the issues after the swapp

Gardy

Did you solve the issue ???

jtoma878

I did. I figured if I swap all of the components that are VIN matched with ones that came from the same donor vehicle then I'd be good to go. The dealer said it wouldn't work - they were wrong.

What you have to do is source these parts from the same vehicle: key, EIS, & ECU. And you must make sure the ECU you get is the identical part number as the one that's in your vehicle or else some electronics might not work properly (don't ask me how I know this). However once you get the parts and install (under an hour for me), it's completely plug and play.

One more piece of advise: try to get the title (or at the very least a copy of the salvage title) - you'll need it if you ever want to order more keys from the dealership

Good luck!!

Gardy

Thanks for the reply, the only problem I have someone down the road reflash the ECU and replace the part number with there own sticker, but is OK I'll risked and do what you did at least to start the car thanks