Air Condition compressor replacement
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: East Texas
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2002 320 CLK 2002 ML 500
Air Condition compressor replacement
At my last visit to MB I had them check my a/c and was told that my compressor was going bad . I told the guy I was going to do it myself and he informed me that once I install the new compressor , I would have to bring it back for them to do some sort or reset . Since I haven't ever had to do that I was wondering if I need have to wait to fill it till MB done the reset.
#2
you should reset the climate control module if there are errors present. Do a search for the procedure. simple.
I just had my compressor replaced at an indie since I didn't want to deal with it. However, last week I had teh front bumber off to replace headlight lenses and make a mesh grille. As I was under the car it appears pretty easy access to the compressor from teh bottom. Let us know how it goes.
Remember to replace the filter/drier too.
-J
I just had my compressor replaced at an indie since I didn't want to deal with it. However, last week I had teh front bumber off to replace headlight lenses and make a mesh grille. As I was under the car it appears pretty easy access to the compressor from teh bottom. Let us know how it goes.
Remember to replace the filter/drier too.
-J
#3
Senior Member
Just had my compressor replaced at my indie as well. $1100 and it was totally worth it to me... But I'm biased cause I live in phoenix, so I'd rather not replace it myself during any time of the day hahaha
#4
My car only will pull 57* I think it should do better than this even at 100+ ambient. Almost positive I'm overcharged just slightly now, but I am looking at different refrigerants to give me an extra 7-10* at the evap. You're 1-7 data would really help...
-J
Last edited by miatawnt2b; 08-06-2014 at 12:47 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Huh... I'm in Tucson. I feel your 112* pain. I'm working on some things to make this thing cool better (been around HVAC systems since I was 4) Since we are so close and I know you have ambients above 102*, can you run the diagnostics for me on your car... I am interested in numbers 1-7 as you are on the freeway rolling at 65-70mph, climate ctrl set to auto.
My car only will pull 57* I think it should do better than this even at 100+ ambient. Almost positive I'm overcharged just slightly now, but I am looking at different refrigerants to give me an extra 7-10* at the evap. You're 1-7 data would really help...
-J
My car only will pull 57* I think it should do better than this even at 100+ ambient. Almost positive I'm overcharged just slightly now, but I am looking at different refrigerants to give me an extra 7-10* at the evap. You're 1-7 data would really help...
-J
I'll be down in Tucson at the University for the academic year. We could get together and figure this out. Let me know.
#6
I appreciate it. Set your climate ctrl to low on both sides, high blower. Then press and hold the rest button for 10 seconds. Then scroll through the numbers with the left auto button. Jot down the numbers between 1-7. Thanks a bunch.
I'm in the NW, but frequently around the UA campus.
I'm in the NW, but frequently around the UA campus.
#7
Senior Member
Haha I've done diags before so I understand the whole function of the module. I just know nothing about how the compressor functions and vacuums ect... Sounds good, I'll pm you when I'm down there
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#9
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2000 CLK430, 2012 BMW X5 3.5d
In St Louis last summer we had temps in the 105 range - my 2000 CLK430 with original compressor, evaporator would show on 4 around 38-40F with a blower speed of 4 bars. The freon pressure #7 would average about 12-14 at speeds and around 16 with high ambient temps at idle. Also the 4 value or what the temp at the evaporator can go as low as 37 at idle. The higher the cabin fan speed the higher the temps at the evaporator. With your super high ambient temps I would guess the in cabin temp would be about 42-44F IF the charge is perfect and the compressor is running fine. If there is ANY air in the system the temps would be much higher. Your best bet is to have the system evac'd and recharged properly (NOT A DIY because you need a vac pump and proper gauges.) Cost should be less than 105. If you charge it with just a DIY can the air will still be in the system and you can blow the compressor or something else which isn't cheap.