markloch

I bit the bullet and purchased a Pioneer AVIC-6000NEX for my '02 CLK55 Cab.

I also purchased three PAC-AUDIO modules: SOEM-4 to interface with the stock Bose amp, and SW-CAN2 and SW-RC to interface with the steering wheel controls. Finally, a Metra 70-1786 wiring harness and an antenna adapter.

Now, for the fun part: installing it.

I've done HU swaps in MB's before, just not a COMAND swap, and never with steering wheel controls. Most of what I've been reading on this and the other MB forum has concerned single-din HU swaps, not COMAND swaps.

I've looked through MarcusF's writeup on his single-din HU swap using the PAC-AUDIO modules. The CANBUS plug is different, from process of elimination I believe it's a CAN-5, which make can-lo and can-hi pins 8 and 9, respectively.

Anyone have any hints or guidance on doing the swap? The COMAND unit has many more pins on the back of it than a the OEM single-din units ...

In any event, I'll do my best to document it a write something up.

MarcusF

Sounds like a fun project. Did you need the pin out for your COMAND?

Gundo

I went from factory command to an Pioneer avic-z without any issues. It's been a while so I don't remember all the steps but look back through my older threads if you want. I do remember there was a couple extra cables that were useless once Pioneer unit went in. I think one was for the night/day color switch when turning on headlights, cd changer, phone ect. Not a lot of room to get all the extra stuff tucked behind the unit (in dash) once all is wired just as a heads up.

markloch

Looks like I need some sort of dash kit? When I've swapped out stock single-din HUs, the new HU always came with a cage that was mounted into the opening, into which the HU slid. This didn't come with one. Anyone have recommendations? I'll swing by BestBuy to see if they (or their install dept) has something.

Other than that, after a quick look at the connectors and cables it looks pretty straightforward, though I wonder about:

- wire to parking brake switch - is this just to enable watching DVDs when in car? Need I bother if I'll never watch DVDs?

- blue/white 'system remote control' wire - mentioned twice: first for auto-antenna relay (dont have one) or antenna booster power (for in-glass antenna, right? dont have one); and secondly for 'system control terminal of the power amp' - I think it's the same as what MarcusF's write up's alpine diagram "remote turn-on" and PAC diagram "amplifier remote turn on". Any idea what I do with this one?

markloch

OK looking through

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ic-z110bt.html

find out I need ADT-VA133 dash kit, and got blue/white and power wiring figured out.

Found a parking brake bypass video as well.

The HU has reverse and speed signal inputs; from what I can tell they go to pins 15 and 6 on the same connector as the can hi/low pins 18 and 17.

Gps: I've read that there's a metal crossbar/brace behind the glove box that's suitable for the antenna.

Mic: in my slk I ran it to where the oem mic is, near rear view mirror, had to remove the a-pillar cover and cover along top of windshield to do so - anyone try this? Found a post thst discusses installing the mic but not the specifics of running the wire back to the HU.

Gundo

I ran my mic exactly where your talking about but didn't have to remove anything just pry at the pillar and tuck in the wire. Also did the bypass and ran a rear view camera which is viewable in drive and automatic in reverse.

markloch

Thanks.

I also need to run usb to the center console compartment. I remember loosening if not removing the center console on my slk and e430, and I assume it's pretty much the same.

Gundo

I don't have experience with routing a cord to the CC but my assumption is that you would just need to get the ashtray and gear shift surround trim piece removed and go from there. Not positive on that one though. Good luck on the project!

markloch

Audio, BT phone, and Nav are working.

I routed the GPS antenna under the glove box (removing the panel that covers the cabin filter) then under the edge of the door sill and between the right rear seat and back cushion and the plastic panel and with the rear deck open (top down at the time) the antenna mounted onto a convenient place. Along the way it was easy to tuck the wire away.

Loosening the panel under the driver's side dash made it easy to run the mic to the fuse cover at the end of the dash. I haven't yet run it up to replace the stock mic near the rear view mirror.

Pulling up (from the rear) the panel that surrounds gear selector revealed two screws that hold down the ashtray compartment. Pulling the ashtray gave access to the lighter's wiring; if I recall correctly it was the outer terminal (the one with two wires running to it) that is hot. With a jeweler's screwdriver I was able to press the small tab to release the blade from the connector in order to solder my lead.

At the bottom of the center console compartment are a couple of screws. removing those and I was able to lift up the center console enough to route the supplied USB cable. Once routed, I installed ashtray compartment, screwed down the center console, then pressed the panel back in place. The usb cable feeds to where the motorola phone had been.

I used bullet-style insulated snap connectors to connect everything together. The only deviation from standard wiring was the switched 12V from the cigarette lighter rather than from the factory harness.

The SWI-CAN2 included a 6-pin harness that the instructions call for cutting off if you dont need it; I opted to carefully push the pins out of the connector - the pins fit perfectly into the CAN-6 harness where the SW controller connects. I cut off a couple of the unused wires/pins to connect the speed and reverse signal wires from the HU to the CAN-6 harness.

I found instructions for parking brake bypass: grounding the parking brake wire and a few button presses. http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/...ic-units-only/

I haven't connected and programmed the SW controller yet. Part of the problem is that there isn't a lot of room behind the HU. I don't have the dash kit yet, but even without the PAC SWI modules connected it's a very tight fit back there. I'm trying to figure out how to fit it all properly -- any suggestions? Now that the wiring all works, I wonder if I have to rethink it - lengthen all the wiring so that the bulky connectors can be stashed and the PAC modules mounted to maximize space behind the HU.

Anyway, it's nice having access to my iPhone's 40GB of music - no longer stuck listening to the same six CD's! Also, looking forward to the CarPlay firmware upgrade!

beefstallionAMG

I had a super hard time fitting everything behind my double din head unit also. I found that removing the ash tray and moving components as I slid in the head unit worked the best. It was a really tight fit back there. It took more than a few tries to wiggle everything in place and fit the head unit the entire way back.

markloch

Pulling the ashtray definitely helped in wrestling the wires into place!

I used a second wire on the cigarette lighter for the HU's illumination input. The wires to the bulb are hot when the headlights are on.

Still haven't gotten the VSS wire attached - I understand it's under the passenger side kick plate. Nav seems to be fine without it for now ... its calculation of vehicle speeds seems pretty accurate.

No love from the steering wheel interface. Exchanged emails with pac-audio, support guy thinks the can hi/lo are not correct, maybe as simple as hi/lo wires being swapped. Will give that a try, though I wonder how to test? I understand that at rest hi and lo both show 2.5v, and that when there's data on the bus hi will go up and lo will go down equal amounts. The voltage oscillates and so I would think a voltmeter would show the average (about 5.v change?), in any case I'm hoping at least I'll voltage increase on one and decrease on the other and thus identify hi/lo.

Has anyone successfully hooked up SW controller to their mercedes-can-5 (18 pin) connector?

jonUF02

I got my SW controls working with the 2 PAC modules to Pioneer radio. I had the single-din original radio, and PAC had a diagram of the connector. There was a black wire and a black/whit wire into that connector I believe. I had to cut them from the connector and crimp to the PAC leads to get a solid connection. I tried a pin into the connector and piggy-back connectors, but they worked intermittently until i cut and spliced. I put the SW modules behind the air vent toward the driver's feet and lengthened a few wires. It's still a tight fit behind the HU with the PAC OEM module back there and 3 sets of RCA connections, along with the USB, etc. etc.

markloch

Yeah, I tapped into the black & black/white wires with no luck. The SW controller acts like its getting programmed but doesn't seem to like the signal its getting. Thinking I had perhaps swapped hi/lo I swapped the two wires around and got absolutely nothing.

According to diagrams, there is another pair of CAN wires - pins 17/18 are on diagrams marked "Robert-Bosch CAN Lo/Hi". I'll have to pull the HU out to see if there are actually wires on 17/18, and wondering if should try those two just in cases there's something amiss with 8/9. Or are there two CAN networks?

jonUF02

My connection looks like the 6th pic on this link, works fine.

http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ram_090408.pdf

markloch

The comand harness uses mercedes-can-5, the 10th pic. 8/9 are the blk/blkwht wires. 17/18 are also CAN hi/lo. If I understand correctly, it's all the same broadcast network, every device on the network sees the same messages sent to each other, each picks out messages addressed/of interest to it. If that's the case, I would expect and drop (hi/lo pair) to be equivalent. Unless there's more than one network ...

sirswift93

I ran the GPS between the passenger side vent and the dash. Works perfectly. The vent just pops out.