2002 CLK430 front shocks nut torque?
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2002 CLK430 & 2007 E350
2002 CLK430 front shocks nut torque?
Can someone post the torque specs for the front shocks top self locking nut please? I'm finding some references saying the top nut torque is 18 Nm and others saying it's 30 Nm. Clarification would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
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I went with 30 Nm for the torque. I think the different torque specs are do to some installations having an additional nut to lock the main top nut in place and that additional top nut has a lower torque. Merely speculation on my part.
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Well, I've found some additional information on another forum indicating what I have done to be incorrect:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...43-shocks.html
Apologies for the cross forum reference. Anyway, it appears the shock to frame torque spec is 18 Nm and the locking nut above it to be 30 Nm (the bottom shock to control arm torque spec is 55 Nm).
My car does not have a lock nut on top of the shock to frame nut - hence my confusion. So, I'll be re-torquing mine accordingly (and I'll probably add a lock nut since that is the intended design).
Also, the torque specs are the same for front and rear shocks.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...43-shocks.html
Apologies for the cross forum reference. Anyway, it appears the shock to frame torque spec is 18 Nm and the locking nut above it to be 30 Nm (the bottom shock to control arm torque spec is 55 Nm).
My car does not have a lock nut on top of the shock to frame nut - hence my confusion. So, I'll be re-torquing mine accordingly (and I'll probably add a lock nut since that is the intended design).
Also, the torque specs are the same for front and rear shocks.
#4
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30 Nm sounds about right. It rings a bell of when I replaced my shocks a couple years ago. I've had no issues since.
As long as the top nut is locked and torqued with the shock at full extension, you should be completely fine.
As long as the top nut is locked and torqued with the shock at full extension, you should be completely fine.
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I don't think torque is that critical in this application, so long as it's not too loose or too tight. I've also found a reference to an "old school" method of tightening that top nut without using a torque wrench: Tighten the nut until the outer diameter of the rubber mount matches the outer diameter of the flat washer sitting on top of it (rubber mount). At 30 Nm, the outer diameter of the rubber mount is a bit larger than the washer. So, I'm going to back off until it matches the washer and check the torque. I highly suspect it will be in the neighborhood of 18 Nm.
#6
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Wow, you really did your research. I applaud you
What's your reason for needing the info? Did you replace your shocks? If so did you go OEM or the Koni/Bilstein route for better handling?
What's your reason for needing the info? Did you replace your shocks? If so did you go OEM or the Koni/Bilstein route for better handling?
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Handling is a bit more crisp and the ride is a bit harsh compared to stock. If the car had rack and pinion steering, the Bilsteins would make it BMW-ish. YMMV.