Maxelliot

Hi.
I've just purchased a 2001 230 CLK which had not been used for a while. It had a flat battery and was jump started before I viewed it. At first the drivers window and seat did not work.. Then they did along with the mirror. The passengers window, seat and mirror didn't start working at all...
This evening I disconnected the battery earth and re connected.. Turned the wheel lock to lock... Now no windows seats or mirrors work. The boot lock won't undo.
In addition the remote loxking has only worked a couple of times and changing the battery has not helped.
Now the hood won't go down.... I guess because the back windows don't work.
Can anyone give me some advice please...

Chris

A1EK

Did you perform the reset procedures? as I im sure you know you can't just disconnect the battery .

A1EK’s Reset procedures for CLK 208:
Resetting car after battery fail:

Preparation Steps:
1. Make sure your steering wheel is straight.
2. Make sure your windows are all the way up
3. Make sure your sun roof is completely closed (if you have one)
4. Make sure your parking brake is released.
6. Turn off your stereo and make sure you have your stereo's Anti-theft code.
7. Turn off your heat/AC blower
8. Turn off your lights
9. Make sure your doors are UNLOCKED.

Now, disconnect battery 30 secs and then reconnect.
Get in car close the door and turn the key to position 2 (Just before you start the engine but do not start it)

1. Resetting your windows: Bring down both windows at the same time by holding the switches just before the click that brings them down automatically. Once both windows are all the way down make both switches click by pressing them all the way down and hold them for 3 secs (This lets the ECU learn that that is the end of the window track and it records it in memory). Do the same for closing the windows by holding both switches and making them click once the windows are all the way up.

2. Turn on your blower and make both sides go to 72 deg (if you have this typr of heater control) by pressing both up and down buttons at the same time. This will calibrate the ECU
3. Turn on your stereo and enter you stereo code.
4. Pull the sun roof all the way back and all the way forward then up and then done.

6. Turn all you lights on and off, including your fog lights.

7. Turn the key back to position 0.

8. Turn on your engine. You will get 2 malfunctions, your ABS and ESP lights will be on and must be calibrated.

9. Calibrate your ABS and ESP systems by turning the steering wheel all the way to your RIGHT and then all the way to your LEFT, then bring it back to the middle. Notice the two yellow lights disappear from you dashboard.

10. Let your car run in idle for about 5 minutes and then take it for a spin. Remember your ECU is still getting all the readings from all the sensors on your car so drive slowly first then faster... and so on.. you are basically teaching your ECU how to handle your car.



Throttle Reset

1. Get in and shut the door
2. Turn key to position 2 (just before you start the engine).
3. Press the gas pedal to the floor... past the kick down point...
4. Hold the pedal there for 15 seconds
5. After 15 seconds while foot still planted, turn the key off but do not remove it.
6. Release gas pedal and wait 3 mins. Do nothing, you should here a click near key at 3 mins.
7. After the 3 minutes start the car and drive off normally... you should notice a difference in the shift pattern and smoothness.


Service Reset
Turn the car on to the 2nd key position, all the way ON, but do not start it.

- Then scroll through and find the A/B Service notification. Hold the "R" or reset button on the dash. After a few seconds a message will display on screen asking you if you would like to reset the service notification. Once this happens let off of the "R" button.

- Press and hold the "R" button one more time until the reset is complete.

Valve Reset:
(move valve with finger off 90degrees, turn key to 2nd position, let valve close and open, wait for "click", turn off key, turn back on for 45 secs during which time the valve will close and open again, key off (Not been able to make this work)
Trunk Release:
Remove drivers fuse panel, pull 4 fuses on left 7.5A and 5A, wait few secs and replace then try door unlock switch to see if it works, this will tell you if alarm is deactivated. If not try other fuses.
Passenger Mirror auto-dip reset:
1- Turn key to position 2
2- Select reverse, adjust mirror down so you can see kerb for reversing etc.
3- Press Green store button on drivers door control next to the seat adjustment for a couple of seconds, then within 3 secs press the mirror control again just once in any direction, mirror is now stored. Return to Gear shift to Park.
4- Wait 17 secs mirror will return to normal position.
5- Select reverse and test to make sure it dips ! DONE.

Maxelliot

Thanks A1EK's.
I'm a bit confused as the fuses in the end of
the dash don't cover central locking. According to the book the correct ones for the locking are in the boot along with the battery... These I can't access as despite hours with WD40 a key and pliers I still can't open the boot. The lock barell is very stiff but turns all the way round and round anti clockwise but not at all clockwise.
When I get some daylight I will try removing any fuses under the bonnet relating to locking. I'll wait the 30 seconds and put them back while crossing fingers.
I've bought some extra strong penetrating oil and put that in the lock so who knows it may work.
At least if I can get into the boot I will be able to check the other re sets after disconnecting the battery again.

Any further advice would be greatly welcomed...

Chris.

hotdog1954

I had this problem with the boot lid as merc don't oil the boot lock at services, and after time it rusts up, (we all use the remote without checking the lazer key now & then) it was rusted that bad the only way to get in the boot is using your laser key, I had to very lighty work the key in the lock, with wd40 for 3 days as the locksmith stated to me if the levers in the lock don't move downafter the key goes in then you have to drill the lock, there's a small arm at the end of the lock if you drill to far it falls off then its a new unit, the main dealer had the car there for three hours trying to free it, there wanted to drill it and charge me £300, sod that, the real point here is oil your door & boot locks just in case the remote throws its hand in !!!.

MarinGin

I just had this problem this week. I have a 2000 CLK 320 Cabriolet. My trunk/boot would not open with key or with key fob. In my case it was a case of systems being out of sync. I could not open the locked trunk or put my windows up unless the top was open. After I raised and lowered the top a couple of times everything synced back up and worked properly.

Maxelliot

Just to close the thread.
I was lucky to find a mobile MB mechanic who diagnosed the problem rapidly as damp causing corrosion to the CANBUS connector in the passengers cill. The connector had rotted and gone green. Once the connector was changed everything worked again.
Steve at the Mercedes Doctor... Is breaking the same car so he has all sorts of available parts.