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I am currently in the process of trying to install my newly purchased Pioneer AVH X5600 Double Din into my 2002 CLK 430.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151367761701?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have purchased the PAC SOEM-4 4 Channel Premium Line Output Converter W/ Remote Turn-On Trigger so I can maintain the Bose factory sound and am now just looking for a wiring harness.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331395788439?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Does anyone know what kind of wiring harness I should use? Would the regular VW one work? PLUG 70-1784?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AFTERMARKET-CAR-STEREO-RADIO-TO-AUDI-WIRING-WIRE-HARNESS-ADAPTER-PLUG-70-1784-/140981637679?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d329122f&vxp=mtr
I do not plan on keeping the steering wheel controls as the only thing I would keep is the volume with this type of head unit.
You're good with the vw plug... It's going to be difficult to cram everything behind there so give yourself an extra few inches on the wires to the interface unit... Tuck that up in the corner by the climate control... If you want the volume from the wheel, and you will... You will need a PAC CAN2 module and a PAC swi-Jack module. I did it in my 430, not too bad, sounded good as well... Just take your time and really make sure the connections are solid. Post pics when you're done.
you are right... its a very tight fit back there... my answer for the modules was to put them behind the glove box and extend the wires using 4 wire trailer wiring sold by the roll at any auto parts store.... the wire is nice because its 4 wires 14 gauge fused together flat like a ribbon. just be sure to mark the ends so you remember which end is for what color/connection .... saved me lotsa headache tucking little modules away this is the kind of wire
Last edited by demon.bloom1; 12-20-2014 at 03:04 PM.
you are right... its a very tight fit back there... my answer for the modules was to put them behind the glove box and extend the wires using 4 wire trailer wiring sold by the roll at any auto parts store.... the wire is nice because its 4 wires 14 gauge fused together flat like a ribbon. just be sure to mark the ends so you remember which end is for what color/connection .... saved me lotsa headache tucking little modules away this is the kind of wire
Nice,
Just have to make sure everything is rock solid connection wise, I'd hate to have to pull the glove box. Definitely a good idea though.
I've found the pioneers I've installed lately have been without bezel and requiring a Metra or similar double din kit with a bezel and mounting hardware to work... Other double dins such as jvc Kenwood etc have had sleeves and bezels... Mind you this has been the entry pioneer dd's so I can't speak for this model or higher ones, but I know the 1600 series has no bezel or sleeve and would not look correct. You can also order bezels and such on eBay and find creative ways to mount them.... I'm curious to know if this model came with a cage and bezel.
Originally Posted by gottspd
Hey there. Did you install the stereo? Can you post pics? Did you need a bezel for the radio or does it fit ok without one?
Pioneer is cheap, and they stopped including the sleeve and bezel kit with double-dins. I suppose they think pretty much all new cars with this size are iso-mount? Anyway, there is a sleeve and bezel kit from Pioneer, the part has been mentioned before, mine looks great with it. AVIC-X930BT.
Also, the volume and track/preset buttons work with the SWI interface. I didn't do it at first, but glad I did now. I tucked my modules behind the foot blower vents, way behind the radio. I had to extend a few small wires. I put my Sirius box in the lower section of the arm rest with the foam pad back over it.
Here is a more detailed *pdf of the wiring harnesses together. Still trying to figure out the Remote Amp Turn On (whether it is required or not) and the 12V Contant Power (whether this needs to be fed to the PAC module).
1) All of the +12v switched (yellow) can be tied together, but be sure to check wiring diagrams of each piece to ensure yellow is actually switched power.
2) The remote amp turn on (blue) from the head unit is unnecessary unless you have an after-market amp that you want to turn on.
3) Pioneer does not include the cage and bezel kit that you will need with the radios, they are cheap *******s, it's another part number that is ordered separately. The part number from Pioneer has been posted in other threads here.
I added a compact subwoofer in the trunk, the Infinity Basslink. I have used this in many cars and it sounds great combined with the factor system. You will need to run RCA cables to the trunk from the Sub output on the stereo, and run that blue wire to turn it on. The nice part is that the battery is already in the trunk, so it's easy to wire power to the sub amp.
I added a compact subwoofer in the trunk, the Infinity Basslink. I have used this in many cars and it sounds great combined with the factor system. You will need to run RCA cables to the trunk from the Sub output on the stereo, and run that blue wire to turn it on. The nice part is that the battery is already in the trunk, so it's easy to wire power to the sub amp.
Thanks for the info jonUFO2. I will definitely add the Infinity Basslink. Also will eventually get the steering wheel controls.
Here is an update on my wiring harness progress. Pretty much complete and ready to wire in. I used lots of proper spade connectors and tape to make this thing bulletproof. Also took a member suggestion and lengthened the wires so I can tuck the PAC module up behind the glove box and give myself some room for the DoubleDin unit.
Pic of the harness. Blue wire is remote amp out...which I will connect to the Infinity Basslink Amp. Green wire is to e-brake mechanism (can I connect to 12V to allow for video playback while driving? (i dont watch...my fiancee does)). Other wire is to the reverse gear switch which I assume is for the rearview camera which I will install in the future.
To defeat the screen lock while out of park you will need to look up the instructions for your specific unit. They are all over the internet. For mine, it was as simple as grounding out one of the wires from the radio harness.
You're good with the vw plug... It's going to be difficult to cram everything behind there so give yourself an extra few inches on the wires to the interface unit... Tuck that up in the corner by the climate control... If you want the volume from the wheel, and you will... You will need a PAC CAN2 module and a PAC swi-Jack module. I did it in my 430, not too bad, sounded good as well... Just take your time and really make sure the connections are solid. Post pics when you're done.
Scott,
Thanks for the input. Do you know if the PAC CAN2 and Swi-Jack module are all the same? Or are they somewhat vehicle specific? Doesn't really say too much on the site...
Thanks everyone for helping me along during this install
Ran into an issue. The VW harness specifically the power plug has a different wire configuration than the Stock CLK plug. I will need to re-arrange the wiring to make it work. There are 4 stock wires in the CLK "Power" harness. I've attached a picture. I suspect that its as follows...
Thick Brown = Ground?
Thick Red = Contant 12V Power?
Slim Green-Brown = Illumination?
Slim Blue-Green = Switched Power?
To defeat the screen lock while out of park you will need to look up the instructions for your specific unit. They are all over the internet. For mine, it was as simple as grounding out one of the wires from the radio harness.
Thank jon...I hope I dont need a relay or switch to accomplish this as most videos show...
Ran into an issue. The VW harness specifically the power plug has a different wire configuration than the Stock CLK plug. I will need to re-arrange the wiring to make it work. There are 4 stock wires in the CLK "Power" harness. I've attached a picture. I suspect that its as follows...
Thick Brown = Ground?
Thick Red = Contant 12V Power?
Slim Green-Brown = Illumination?
Slim Blue-Green = Switched Power?
Can anyone confirm this?
KRis
Got the following from DIY section:
1. Thick BROWN: Chassis Ground
2. Thich RED with VIOLET strip (big wire): 12 Volt Ignition/Acc
3. Slim BLUE with WHITE strip: Amp Turn-On (Remote)
So which one is illumination (orange) and which one is constant power?
That harness doesn't have switched power. You have to run a line to your cigar lighter in the ashtray to connect to switched 12v power.
1. Take out the removable ashtray.
2. Gently 'Pop' the lighter assembly out by prying the front out with a small flathead screwdriver.
3. You will see four wires (two power and two ground).
4. Unplug the plug that feeds power to the assembly.
5. Tap into one of the power wires.
That harness doesn't have switched power. You have to run a line to your cigar lighter in the ashtray to connect to switched 12v power.
1. Take out the removable ashtray.
2. Gently 'Pop' the lighter assembly out by prying the front out with a small flathead screwdriver.
3. You will see four wires (two power and two ground).
4. Unplug the plug that feeds power to the assembly.
5. Tap into one of the power wires.
That harness doesn't have switched power. You have to run a line to your cigar lighter in the ashtray to connect to switched 12v power.
1. Take out the removable ashtray.
2. Gently 'Pop' the lighter assembly out by prying the front out with a small flathead screwdriver.
3. You will see four wires (two power and two ground).
4. Unplug the plug that feeds power to the assembly.
5. Tap into one of the power wires.
Success! I have it wired in but the sound it quite muffled. I may have the speaker wires crossed.
Well Gents...everything is wired in....speaker wires are all confirmed matches...all speakers work fine but the sound is REALLY QUIET...and there is distortion in the bottom end of the sound...the PAC light is on...i can control the individual spinners on the PAC and adjust sound...its just really quiet...
Any suggestions? What am I missing here? Is the factory amp not being engaged?
When I put the factory deck back in everything sounds fine...
i suspect that yes. the factory amp is not active... i had this problem when installing mine... my answer was to run new speaker wires into the doors and install a complete set of kicker ks series speakers... i chose those because the bass response was low enough in Hz to closely match the factory bose units
Sounds like something is not powered up, possibly the amp, or the PAC OEM module? I had to adjust the level knobs on the PAC. Mine was originally very LOUD and distorted, until i turned the knobs on the PAC way down. Now it all works great. Basically the same setup you have. Pioneer AVIC radio, PAC OEM module, to the original Bose amp. Keep double-checking everything. It's rare that an after-market installation this complicated works perfectly the first time.
I have been planning to take out the factory amp soon. There is a wiring diagram of the whole fat connector to the factory amp; inputs and outputs, just search for it. Rather than running a bunch of new wires to the doors, I was just going to cut off this factory connector and tap the output leads to the speakers, back to my own amp, that will be powered from the Pioneer RCA preamp outputs. This should create much cleaner sound quality.
12-19-2014, 02:02 PM
