Pancho

Finally happened--Top is Stuck. So, fuses???

A wealth of riches can be very, very confusing. There is an abundance of posts on the "rag top won't go up/down" problem. Spent some time reading some of them, but am looking for a starting point.

Yesterday, while at a stop sign on a very steep downward slope, my girl asked me to put the top down. So, I unlatched and pulled the button. Seems that the cords that hold back the top have stretched. I gave it a the appropriate assist, and a little extra, and the top began to retract about a foot, then stopped. I tried the switch again, no response.
Fortunately, I was 1/2 block from my house, so I returned to my garage, where I proceeded to activate the button again and again with no response or sound at all, as though it were not completing an electrical connection. As the top was very close to being all the way up (Recall, it had retracted very little, about a foot.) I tried to latch it closed, but could not. Then I noticed that I could push it back by hand (retract) and so I pushed it all the way back, manipulating the boot hatch by hand. Now, of course, I can not compress it all the way flat into the trunk, and of course, the electric latching system can not lock it down because, not responding to the switch.

Here's my initial query, before I dive into the minutiae of this dilemma.

1. Is there a fuse that I should examine or replace ?
And,
2. knowing Mercedes, is that fuse in the trunk, that will now, not open ?

One thing to mention: On same day, put new battery into vehicle, if that makes any difference.

Thanks

Serndipity

As reply to your questions, fuse block F4, located inside the trunk behind the battery, there are 2 fused circuits. The circuit to power the controller is provided through a 15A fuse at position #11 and at position #13, there is a 40A fuse, dedicated to power and protect only the pump motor. Additionally, in fuse block F1, in position 15, there is a 5A fuse that also supplies power to the controller.

"""" So, I unlatched and pulled the button. Seems that the cords that hold back the top have stretched. I gave it a the appropriate assist, and a little extra, and the top began to retract about a foot, then stopped."""""

This is a pretty good clue. The roof has 2 tension cables, whose purpose is to fold (i.e. collapse) the joints in the metal frame, which will then allow the hydraulic lift cylinders to continue folding the roof. Here is what to look for to determine if one or both of the cables have broken or stretched.

After you unlatch the locking handle, the front bow should raise about 10". This will unfold the roof's frame joints, which are located above both front windows. If they do not properly fold and then stay in that position (e.g. from an included angle of 0 degrees, from when the roof was up, to an angular collapse that will allow the lift cylinders to continue folding the roof).

The following hints should help you diagnose if the problem is related to your tension cables.

When releasing the front bow locking handle, the bow should pop up about 10" and stay in that position.

When the front bow, when opening or closing the power roof, is not parallel to the windshield frame, will help determine which cable side is broken and/or stretched.

Lastly, on the W208, the power roof on the W208 can be manually opened or closed.This involves, using the MB provided toolkit, releasing the hydraulic system pressure, locking/unlocking the rear bow and case cover. etc.. The details are in the 'practical hints' section of the owner's manual. I mention this because, unless the roof has been properly locked/unlocked, at this time, your main power roof console switch is likely providing 1st level fault codes.

Aussiesuede

There is a micro switch on the Bow lock which prevents the trunk from being opened when the toneau top cover is unlatched. That's the likely reason why your trunk won't open. You can use the metal "mini" key that's inside of your Key fob to try to manually unlock the trunk. You insert and turn the metal key to the 11 o'clock position and push in. You'll likely need to use graphite spray, or WD-40, to lubricate the lock,since most are seized from non-use. If you are not able to get the key to work, then here is a link to how to gain access to the trunk when the top is stuck in the down position by removing the strike plate: (Post #5) https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...rill-lock.html

Pancho

Well, gentlemen, seems as though I have dodged a bullet.
Left vehicle parked in garage, untouched for about 5 days, then about 30 mins ago, tried key in trunk (11 position then push in) but key wouldn't turn at all. Then soaked lock with WD40, still no key turn. Was about to vent with a well selected blast of invective, but instead, got into car, turned ignition on (not to start), push switch to up position, and up it came, then I latched the handle. The top is up and secure.

Whew, have been driving my 22 y/o Jeep ZJ.

So, now need to buy new tension cables, and replace the stretched cables.

First, look for the part, then look for a how-to for this job.

Question: Is this the tension cable ? (ebay $99)

Again, please allow me to thank you for your knowledgeable help.
Gads, what would be do without this forum?

burgca

That is the correct part number for the tension cables

Serndipity

If you google the cable part number, 2087701865 , you'll find multiple sources that can supply the genuine MB part for less than $100.

Some DIY links.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...placement.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208...fixed-1-a.html

Pancho

Found them at 77.7x2=155.4+20.11 ship = $175.51 for two.
Total of $87.75 each.

http://www.mboemparts.com/oe-mercedes-benz/2087701865

or

$78.28x2=-$156.56, free ship=$156.56 for two.

http://mercedespartscenter.com/parts...&siteid=215720