Fabio T

Hello to all, I have a 1998 CLK 230 Kompressor and it has beautiful boost when Cold, the Supercharger clutch kicks in about 2500 RPM No Vacuum Leaks, has new Fuel Filter, Air Filter, Plugs, all is good, but the boost vanishes after I has warmed up (About 5 Minutes of Driving) My last guess (I think) could it be the InterCooler ? Also I have a vibration at high Revs and all Mountings Engine and Gearbox are perfect - as I was thinking the Cats were or are blocked - Running out of thoughts and cant get sleep - Codes were read and no fault codes stored - Please someone help ??

A1EK

The cats are a possibility perhaps.
What is the condition of the MAF by the way, is there signs of oil contamination as this can cause the SC to disengage and shut down. When the engine is cold the SC may function as the car settles to its operating temp, then as it warms the oil contamination can will confuse the air around the MAF and cause the SC to stop

Fabio T

Thank you so much for responding.. Well yes the MAF was contaminated but I cleaned it out with Carburettor cleaner and it was clean.. Possibly oil in the interCooler ?

A1EK

okay, so this is a good clue if you have oil contamination as there shouldn't be any.
I see you have the same engine as myself, you will need to fix the route cause of the oil contamination first, as this will keep coming back until its fixed and the MAF will only take a number of cleans before it starts to fail too.

If your quite handy you can fix the oil contamination yourself and I will look to see through my posts as I'm sure I did a write up.
The cause of the oil is due to a blocked breather nozzil on the fuel injection rail on the right of your engine, this in turn causes oil from the engine to enter the air intake. You need to seperate the fuel rail and then clean the nozzils inside with thin wire like piano wire to resolve.
Its not that hard but once you've carried this out, the MAF will remain clean !

Heres my DIY Link:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...hlight=blocked

Fabio T

Thanks.. I think you are on the right track cause this seems to be exactly what can be the cause.. I am very positive this is the fix.. I will study your instructions and do it and possibly if I need help I'll ask a mechanic but I will supervise that he does it exactly as you say .. As if you leave them alone they will cause more disasters.. Thanks so much I will reply soonest to let you know the outcome !!!

A1EK

Good stuff, its not too hard, just looks daunting, take your time and you should be fine.
I recall the only tricky part was getting a small socket on an extension to reach a couple of the inlet fittings, otherwise not too bad. The inlet also does not need to be removed or disconnected, just removed off the side of the engine and placed to the side.

If your lucky, just unplug your MAF and see if the car drives differently. Remember though that by disconnecting the MAF the Kompressor will not work, but the engine should behave better without the boost.

Fabio T

Thanks so much .. Gonna attempt this weekend.. Good that the manifold doesn't have to come off

A1EK

As a tip, get yourself some small rubber tube as there is a T-Piece under the fuel rail that will probably be brittle and brake. I found some fuel pipe was just the right size, saves buying an expensive Merc part.

Fabio T

I will definetely get some .. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED

Fabio T

Hello - Just wanted to ask your Advice - I had a friend who has the proper Mercedes Star DIAG we kept on Getting the code for the Hall Camshaft Sensor - the other 3 Sensors were fine, Now I'm looking to get that Sensor, Can this sensor really mess aound with the S/C kicking in at times and also starve the car from very poor power & Acceleration? Also what I notice when no power and I accelerate, it goes but struggles and not nice I see the RPM's sticky to jumpy, meaning they go up stop for a second go up some more - Like that.. Bottom line can this Hall Camshaft sensor cause all these problems - Lack of Power, Supercharger working only when cold start up etc. ??

Fabio T

My Car is sorted - The issue was the Camshaft Sensor - replaced it and it is a new car, Boosting ALL THE TIME and has a new Spirit - Super Fast - Response - I am so Glad - THIS IS A MESSAGE TO ALL HAVING THIS ISSUE - CHANGE YOUR CAMSHAFT SENSOR - WHEN NOT WORKING IT DISENGAGES S/C AND THE CAR IS A DONKEY - IT IS THE HALL CAMSHAFT SENSOR LOCATED ON TOP - SIDE OF ENGINE THE 111 ENGINE - IT IS ALSO TEMPERATURE RELATED AS WHEN ITS COLD IT SEEMS TO WORK, WHEN HOT SWITCHES OFF - SO HAVING IT REPLACED WHICH TAKES 2 MINUTES HOT OR COLD, NEVER MIND WHAT S/C KICKS IN ALL THE TIME THANKS ALLLLLL

A1EK

YES, the sensor is linked with the cruise control and will influence the Kompressor, if theres a fault it will not engage.

Fabio T

I am telling you the exact same thing Star Picked up.. It is 100 and 50 percent the Hall Sensor.. Please believe me change that one and that S/C will work like you have never believed it could.. Irrelevant of heat or distance it kicks in EVERY time from 2000 RPM .. It's unbelievable that sensor does just that.. And the car is lighter on petrol.. When you take the sensor out it will look new.. Don't let that fool you.. It's messed.. Put another and you will see just like I did on Sunday. I was also skeptical .. But it proved me wrong.. Disconnect it and you'll see your S/C not engage.. Just a slight turn .. Plug the new one and engages every time even in park revving past 2000.. Please get one

Fabio T

I'm so sorry ... You know I'm so excited that I thought you were asking the same question I asked .. And I replied .. Haha.. Must be a sunstroke for me.. Thanks so much for all your help.. I'm cruising