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The pump just keeps stopping as if the tank was full.
I read something here before about changing and/or
bypassing a charcoal filter which vents the tank but I do not know where to find it.
PS-I can put in about 10 liters before the gas backs up.
It comes out of the filler as well as out of a little tube
at the bottom of the rear fender well.
I followed the instructions but the wheel well of my 2002 CLK 430 did not look anything like the images shown in the help post. In fact, there was NO cartridge visible at all.
But I was able to trace a couple of the lines which looked like they might connect to the charcoal canister, which seemed to be somewhere well inboard of the wheel well wall. There was also a smaller tube running to the same general area.
So I reasoned that these were the 3/4 - 3/4 -3/8 lines. But in fact, they were 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/4(?) so the tee I bought could not be used. I cut all three and went for a test drive. I was able to put in a full tank of gas no problem - no stopping. And since there was no code thrown I didn't bother to put in another tee.
So while the original advice wasn't exactly correct it WAS
a huge help in figuring out what to do.
I'm glad to know that you fond the aforementioned posts to be valuable Your location wasn't indicated in your profile. However, after removing the driver’s side rear wheel, followed by removing the plastic inner cover and then looking up for the canister, does apply to left side drive W208 CLKs (e.g. here in the US).
In terms of your fix.
I'm happy to know that your fuel tank is restored to a full refill.
I'm above above my pay grade here (e.g. only an electrical engineer) but, I do have some concerns with your solution.
These have to do with the vent, purge and shut off values not operating properly, which can result in an eventual emissions CEL or worst fluids (e.g when parked area in an enclosed area, avoid any spark)
I'm happy to know that your fuel tank is restored to a full refill.
I'm above above my pay grade here (e.g. only an electrical engineer) but, I do have some concerns with your solution.
These have to do with the vent, purge and shut off values not operating properly, which can result in an eventual emissions CEL or worst fluids (e.g when parked area in an enclosed area, avoid any spark)[/QUOTE]
I appreciate your concern. There was a gas smell when I first cut the tubes - which I attribute to the saturated charcoal. But after a while there was no smell. When I filled up the tank I paid close attention for any smell or fuel leaks or drips. And I checked for leaks every time I left a parking spot or my driveway. After two days now there are no issues.
I cut all three and went for a test drive. I was able to put in a full tank of gas no problem - no stopping. And since there was no code thrown I didn't bother to put in another tee.
If this means you cut ANY fuel system related line(s) (whether the line(s) relate to delivering or transporting liquid fuel or to purging fuel vapors) and did not correctly restore the line(s) to their original sealed condition then your car is an explosion waiting to happen.
Please don't take offense if I misinterpreted your post. I'm sorry if I did, but if not, you should definitely not drive the car until your fuel system, and all of its related parts, are brought back to factory specs.
Maybe it's my sick sense of humor, but I think this thread is classic! The OP can't add fuel. He reads a thread that explains why, and says, "thanks, that was it.". Two months later (TWO MONTHS to pull the liner?!?!?!?), he posts back that he removed the wheel and liner and didn't see the canister, so he just cut every hose in sight - and now it works great. Cause you know, German powertrain engineers are known for running extra fuel lines all over the place!
Euro smog laws are different from US, so I can see the CEL not illuminating. However, I think there's a code. It's just not triggering the CEL. Assuming he doesn't park in his attached garage and burn his house to the ground, the next guy to dump the codes and start tracing the problem is in for a ride. When the mechanic finally checks everything under the hood, and pulls that inner fender liner and sees cut hoses dangling all over . . . . .
The next post where some guy is looking to buy a used Benz should read this twice. You can never tell what the previous owner has done.
Cause you know, German powertrain engineers are known for running extra fuel lines all over the place!
The next post where some guy is looking to buy a used Benz should read this twice. You can never tell what the previous owner has done.
Marcus ,
Not to minimize the seriousness of the potential for disaster, but I have to say that the first quote above from your post made me laugh out loud. The second one couldn't be more true.
What's with the bashing? To quickly address your "jabs"
1-All I did was thank the poster for the reply as soon as I got it, not after I did the work. So at the time I thanked him I figured it was correct for my car.
2-I waited 2 months for the snow to melt before trying the fix. In the meanwhile I had to spend 15 minutes in the cold just to put 10 liters in.
3-There are no hoses "dangling" and I didn't cut "every line in sight". It's not hard to figure out which hoses connect to the cannister and which are for something else. The actual fuel line can be traced from the filler to the gas tank - and it's a massive piece that looks like it might be solid tubing with rubber connectors.
4-I think I might have noticed if gas spewed out when I cut any tubes, or any puddles on the ground when I park.
And all I did when I posted the reply was to let you know that my 430 looked different, but that it was still pretty easy to fix. I was just trying to be helpful and pass along some information. AND - I didn't mention that I went out and got the (correct size) T fitting to tie it all back together. So I had the chance to fill it up and drive it before I put the T in and the liner back on.
If I was rude like some of the posters all I would have done was post a rant about how the information is all wrong, someone is an idiot, etc. etc. But I took the information which helped me with the work around and thanked him for it.
Maybe it's my sick sense of humor, but I think this thread is classic! The OP can't add fuel. He reads a thread that explains why, and says, "thanks, that was it.".
Check my post. I said "Thank you very much for the reply. It was spot on!
Cheers!"
I only meant that the reply was exactly what I was looking for. YOU assumed that I posted it after I did the work. Not so. It was just a quick reply to thank the poster.
You’re right, I was presumptive in assuming that you did what you said you did. I was mainly trying to ensure the next guy trying to determine why he can’t add fuel doesn’t think it’s OK to go Texas Chainsaw Massacre on every line behind the fender liner. I’ll say I was wrong in not knowing that anyone in their right mind would have done more than what you posted. Sorry for making you the butt of the joke. You have my genuine, sincere apology. Now that we have that out of the way, you’ll have to admit, in its original form, that was a funny post. The logical conclusion was hysterical - in a sick kind of way.
BTW, you wouldn’t necessarily see fuel dripping from those lines. Many of the lines are vapor return lines and gasoline vapor is more explosive than the liquid. The pilot light on a hot water heater in a garage has resulted in vapors igniting and the garage blowing up like it's a meth lab gone wrong.
I reside in California where we have strict emission laws- including at the fuel,station. I have issues 75% of the time being able to fill my tank to full. The pump continually clicks off as full. Something to do with the emission controls gizmo on the pump itself?
Took a rode trip to AZ and TX and no issues as their fuel pumps don't have said California gizmo.
I reside in California where we have strict emission laws- including at the fuel,station. I have issues 75% of the time being able to fill my tank to full. The pump continually clicks off as full. Something to do with the emission controls gizmo on the pump itself?
Took a rode trip to AZ and TX and no issues as their fuel pumps don't have said California gizmo.
Anyone else relate and/or have solution?
I used to have that problem. It wouldn't happen in NV or AZ, but happened regularly in CA. It gradually got worse. I fixed the canister and the problem instantly stopped. It's been years since I did the fix and the problem has never returned. "I think" the canister fix is easy. Depending on your approach, the fix can cost less than $20 and take under an hour. I used 7 hose clamps, a tee, a male to male barb/slip fit connector, and 2 feet of fuel line. Despite the bad thread title, this explains what I did and has a photo of the finished work: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ease-help.html
03-09-2016, 05:28 PM
