Convertible top won't go down
04-04-2013, 11:36 AM
#26
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 CLK 320
removing the gas spring ?
Hello all,
This is my first post and I'm so happy to find a solution to my issue.
I was about to go to a Benz dealer to have this part changed, but it seems to be not so difficult.
I am about to buy the part you referenced above, but just before, I tried to remove the weak gas spring. I have correct access from above by stoping half way the opening roof (and pretending the partitioner is open with a trick).
But I can't remove the old gas spring.
I see no screw or bolt to be removed, I tried just to pull it, but it didn't come...
How are we supposed to remove the gas spring ?
Thank you for help !
This is my first post and I'm so happy to find a solution to my issue.
I was about to go to a Benz dealer to have this part changed, but it seems to be not so difficult.
I am about to buy the part you referenced above, but just before, I tried to remove the weak gas spring. I have correct access from above by stoping half way the opening roof (and pretending the partitioner is open with a trick).
But I can't remove the old gas spring.
I see no screw or bolt to be removed, I tried just to pull it, but it didn't come...
How are we supposed to remove the gas spring ?
Thank you for help !
04-04-2013, 11:42 AM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Snowbird - TN/KW
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2006 CLK 350
The gas spring is attached at each end using a ball and socket arrangement. The ball is fixed using a threaded stud and a nut. The socket in on the end of the spring rod. If you take your fingers and gently rotate the body of the gas spring you can see how the socket it over the ball. It will be necessary to remove the socket from the ball at both ends. There is a clip through the socket to keep the socket locked over the ball as well as a circular spring within the sokcet to help hold it on as well. As you have noticed, it is not easy to get off. First see if you can identify the clip and using a small screwdriver get it to pop out of the ball. Then wedge a larger screwdriver between the socket and the base of the ball and twist forcing the ball to pop off the socket. Luckily, assembly is much easier
Good Luck - Russ
Good Luck - Russ
04-04-2013, 12:29 PM
#28
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 CLK 320
Thank you Russ,
Super quick answer !
I just did it again with your process and it worked fine !
I removed them, and in fact as I was expecting, just one of them is weak, but I'll replace both of them anyway.
Sorry I sent you several messages, I was not sure you would answer with just the thread.
Thanks a lot !
Super quick answer !
I just did it again with your process and it worked fine !
I removed them, and in fact as I was expecting, just one of them is weak, but I'll replace both of them anyway.
Sorry I sent you several messages, I was not sure you would answer with just the thread.
Thanks a lot !
04-06-2013, 12:55 PM
#29
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
78 450sl both tops
HOW TO INSTALL REPLACEMENT CONVERTIBLE TOP
Mercedes R107 SL Convertible Top installation instructions Manual
Preparation
* Inspect contents of box against your invoice, especially color and material.
* Protect car with fender covers or blankets to avoid damage to finish.
* Tape protection over inside and outside of plastic window on new top.
________________________________________
Pre-Installation
*Unlatch and release back rail and lid.
*Unlatch header bow and retract frame for better access to weatherseals and retainers.
*Inspect top frame and seals for damage or deterioration.
*Lubricate pivot points with non staining lubricant (WD40)
*Delay installation if all parts necessary are not at hand.
________________________________________
Top Removal
• The front horizontal door glass weatherseal and vertical retainer assemblies are removed as follows:
• With a wedge or flat screwdriver, carefully remove the rubber seal from the retainer.
• Old or deteriorated seals may tear or not seal properly .
• Next remove the seal retainer held in place by phillips screws.
• The vertical door glass rubber weatherseal and retainer are removed in the same manner.
• Check the seal for serviceability,
• Next remove the flat head phillips screw and cup washer lying behind the vertical seal retainer.
• The vertical flap can now be peeled from the vertical frame member.
• Clean off any old adhesive.
• Repeat the process for the other side.
• The header bow weatherseal and retainer are then removed.
• Inspect rubber seal for serviceability, if replacement is necessary, order
• Peel the top away from the header bow; pliers will aid in the separation.
• Again, clean off any old adhesive.
• Remove the chrome screws and cup washers from sides of header bow, these screws are also used to secure the side tensioning cables to the frame.
• By carefully applying a solvent to the listings, the adhesive can be softened and the listings are then easily removed from the bows.
• Clean any remaining old adhesive from the bows.
• With most of the deck and vertical flaps now free, loosen the nut that secures the side cable and pull the cable from the frame. The back bow listing can now be removed from the frame.
• Raise the rear frame rail to the vertical position. Start the removal of the rubber weatherseal from the retaining rail by twisting the seal inward and away from the rail while simultaneously pulling the interlocking lip from the groove with a hook tool.
• Be careful not to damage the seal with this tool.
• The remainder of this step can be completed without the use of this tool.
• Inspect the seal for serviceability, if necessary replace
• Remove the flap from the rail, begin separation of the two by using the hook and continue by pulling the flap.
Pliers may be used if necessary.
• Clean off any old adhesive.
Before installing the new top it is critical that the bow height be checked and if necessary be reset to factory specifications.
This is especially important on older cars which may have had several replacement tops.
• This is done with the frame up and the top locked into position.
• The dimension of the exposed cable between the rear rail and the back bow should be 17 1/2 inches.
• Readjust the cable if necessary.
• This is a good time to inspect the top straps. Worn, frayed or discolored straps may be replaced with part#107-3056
________________________________________
Top Installation
• Set the new top into position on the car. Check that everything is in order and that window and car protection are in place.
• With the front rail in the vertical position, apply contact cement to the underside of the rear rail.
• Apply the cement to approximately 2/3 of the channel at each side of the locking pin.
• Contact cement can now be applied to both the right rear and left rear retainer flaps.
• The adhesive should be concentrated from the seam to approximately 1 1/4 inches outward on the flap to insure an adequate bonding to the retainer rail will be made.
• While allowing the contact time to set and become tacky, a dry run on setting the top to the rear rail should be made.
• Start by centering the top to the rail.
• The seam on the skirt of the top is positioned directly on the edge of the rail.
• The top is pulled around the rail so that the notch in the flap meets the end of the rail, the skirt will flow in a smooth continuation of the rail and meet the body of the car.
• Fit the skirt along the edge in short segments forming a relatively flush extension of the rail.
• When satisfied, use a blunt stuffing tool to push the flap into the channel.
• Using this procedure, continue setting the top along the rear portion of the retaining rail.
• Before using a blade or scissors to trim away any excess flap material from the inside the channel, make sure the fabric is pushed tight into the curve of the channel. Rubber seal should be fitted later..
• Apply contact cement to the side sections of the rear retainer flaps, both left and right.
• Once the cement has become very tacky, set the rear side portions of the top on the rail, remember the notch in the flap goes flush with the end of the rail.
• Again, once you are satisfied that the skirt is a flush continuation of the rail, place the flap and using the blunt stuffing tool apply pressure to permanently set the flap into the channel.
• This procedure is repeated for the other side.
• Trim excess if necessary.
The key to a trouble-free installation at the front of the top is keeping in mind that the front bow and listing stitch are your reference points when gluing the top to the header bow.
• Apply contact cement to the header bow and front of the top.
• When setting the front of the top to the header bow, begin by straddling the listing over the front bow and make sure the corner is properly positioned.
• Work your way across the front, keeping the stitch and bow alignment uniform while placing the top to the header bow.
• Go to the opposite corner, and place the remaining portion of the front to the header bow.
• Remember the stitch should be positioned uniformly over the first bow.
• Continue to check and reposition as necessary.
• Once you are satisfied with the front of the top, install the cable screws in the header bow.
• Using an upholstery pin, locate the exact position in the top that will align the screw with the cable eyelet and the hole in the header bow.
• Once this has been found, mark the spot and with a punch make a small hole in the top.
• Pull the side cables thru the pockets with the strings provided. If the strings have been removed, use a wire pull to fish them through.
• Put the chrome phillips screw through the screw eyelet, through the top material, the cable eyelet and into the header bow.
• Apply contact cement to the underside of the header bow at the ends and along the front edge of the header and deck.
• Once the contact cement becomes tacky, use a blunt tool to set the front of the top to the underside of the header bow.
• Apply contact cement to the underside of the front side flaps and set into place.
• With the front corners now in place, apply contact cement to the outer side of the front side flaps and to the horizontal door glass seal.
• Allow time for the glue to set and place the seal into position.
• When fitting the top under the header bow, the excess material is removed by making two relief cuts.
• The first cut is made along the deck seam and should stop about 3/4 of an inch from the leading edge.
• The second relief cut will be near the end of the header bow. Work the excess material into a pleat.
• Make the second notch cut leaving about 5/16 inch of material from the apex of the cut to the edge of the header bow. Trim the reinforcement as well.
• Apply contact cement to the pull tab you have just created and pulling it inward toward the center of the header bow, cement the tab into place.
• Contact cement can now be applied and the remaining front of the quarter glued into place.
• The front of the top is now ready for final trim.
• Make sure enough material is left so that unfinished edge of the top underlies the weatherseal retainer and not beyond.
• The retainer screws should fall about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch inside the trimmed edge.
• Re-install the header bow weatherseal retainer.
• The weatherseal is held into the retainer by an interlocking lip.
• Using a blunt tool, work the seal back into the retainer.
• Apply adhesive to the end of the header bow and the weatherseal.
Press the end of the seal into place.
• Install the horizontal door glass seal retainer.
• The weatherseal is interlocked in its retainer with a blunt stuffing tool.
• Thread the side tension cable through the hole at the top of the vertical frame member, route it around the stud and bring it back through the lower hole.
• With the pliers, pull the cable taut and tighten the cable stud nut.
• Cement the pull tab to the vertical member by applying contact cement to both surfaces and pulling the tab tight enough to properly position the binding to the edge of the frame then set the tab.
• With the upper and lower side corners set, apply contact cement to the vertical frame member and vertical flap.
• The extra material has been left at the bottom of the flap to bridge the gap between the bottom of the vertical frame member and the body of the car.
• Glue and fold the material forming a seal of sorts which lies on the body.
• Trim the excess material.
• Set the vertical flap into place on the frame using a blunt stuffing tool to press it firmly into the corner. Trim the excess flap material.
• Use a pointed tool to find the hole in the frame member for the flat head screw and eyelet.
• Make a hole for the screw. Install the screw and eyelet.
• Locate and make the necessary screws holes for the retainer.
• Install the vertical door glass seal retainer with the retainer screws.
• Now install the vertical door glass seal, again interlocking the seal lip into place with a blunt stuffing tool.
• When attaching the listings to the bows, keep in mind that the unfinished portion of the listing is wrapped around the bow first and the portion with the folded finished edge is installed last to provide a nice finished look and avoiding unsightly frayed edges.
• It is best to use two light coats of spray adhesive on the listings.
• Protect the top from overspray and apply contact cement to the bow and the unfinished listing edge.
• When the adhesive is tacky, wrap the listing around the bow and smooth it out.
• Apply more adhesive to the covered bow and finished edge.
• When adhesive is tacky wrap listing around the bow in the opposite direction.
• Smooth out the listing and repeat the procedure for the remaining bows.
• Remember the unfinished edge is wrapped first followed by the folded edge.
• With everything else in order the rear retainer can be raised to the vertical position for installation of the rubber seal.
• Interlock the lip of the rubber seal into the channel using a blunt stuffing tool and work the lip into the channel.
• Start the installation from the center and work toward the end. It may be necessary to apply soap as a lubricant.
• Latch the top into position.
• Use contact adhesive to glue the horizontal side seals which have been provided in the space between the door glass and the horizontal flap on the top.
• Remove tools and protective coverings.
• Check for excess adhesive and clean off with solvent.
Elapsed time approximately 4 hours.
Preparation
* Inspect contents of box against your invoice, especially color and material.
* Protect car with fender covers or blankets to avoid damage to finish.
* Tape protection over inside and outside of plastic window on new top.
________________________________________
Pre-Installation
*Unlatch and release back rail and lid.
*Unlatch header bow and retract frame for better access to weatherseals and retainers.
*Inspect top frame and seals for damage or deterioration.
*Lubricate pivot points with non staining lubricant (WD40)
*Delay installation if all parts necessary are not at hand.
________________________________________
Top Removal
• The front horizontal door glass weatherseal and vertical retainer assemblies are removed as follows:
• With a wedge or flat screwdriver, carefully remove the rubber seal from the retainer.
• Old or deteriorated seals may tear or not seal properly .
• Next remove the seal retainer held in place by phillips screws.
• The vertical door glass rubber weatherseal and retainer are removed in the same manner.
• Check the seal for serviceability,
• Next remove the flat head phillips screw and cup washer lying behind the vertical seal retainer.
• The vertical flap can now be peeled from the vertical frame member.
• Clean off any old adhesive.
• Repeat the process for the other side.
• The header bow weatherseal and retainer are then removed.
• Inspect rubber seal for serviceability, if replacement is necessary, order
• Peel the top away from the header bow; pliers will aid in the separation.
• Again, clean off any old adhesive.
• Remove the chrome screws and cup washers from sides of header bow, these screws are also used to secure the side tensioning cables to the frame.
• By carefully applying a solvent to the listings, the adhesive can be softened and the listings are then easily removed from the bows.
• Clean any remaining old adhesive from the bows.
• With most of the deck and vertical flaps now free, loosen the nut that secures the side cable and pull the cable from the frame. The back bow listing can now be removed from the frame.
• Raise the rear frame rail to the vertical position. Start the removal of the rubber weatherseal from the retaining rail by twisting the seal inward and away from the rail while simultaneously pulling the interlocking lip from the groove with a hook tool.
• Be careful not to damage the seal with this tool.
• The remainder of this step can be completed without the use of this tool.
• Inspect the seal for serviceability, if necessary replace
• Remove the flap from the rail, begin separation of the two by using the hook and continue by pulling the flap.
Pliers may be used if necessary.
• Clean off any old adhesive.
Before installing the new top it is critical that the bow height be checked and if necessary be reset to factory specifications.
This is especially important on older cars which may have had several replacement tops.
• This is done with the frame up and the top locked into position.
• The dimension of the exposed cable between the rear rail and the back bow should be 17 1/2 inches.
• Readjust the cable if necessary.
• This is a good time to inspect the top straps. Worn, frayed or discolored straps may be replaced with part#107-3056
________________________________________
Top Installation
• Set the new top into position on the car. Check that everything is in order and that window and car protection are in place.
• With the front rail in the vertical position, apply contact cement to the underside of the rear rail.
• Apply the cement to approximately 2/3 of the channel at each side of the locking pin.
• Contact cement can now be applied to both the right rear and left rear retainer flaps.
• The adhesive should be concentrated from the seam to approximately 1 1/4 inches outward on the flap to insure an adequate bonding to the retainer rail will be made.
• While allowing the contact time to set and become tacky, a dry run on setting the top to the rear rail should be made.
• Start by centering the top to the rail.
• The seam on the skirt of the top is positioned directly on the edge of the rail.
• The top is pulled around the rail so that the notch in the flap meets the end of the rail, the skirt will flow in a smooth continuation of the rail and meet the body of the car.
• Fit the skirt along the edge in short segments forming a relatively flush extension of the rail.
• When satisfied, use a blunt stuffing tool to push the flap into the channel.
• Using this procedure, continue setting the top along the rear portion of the retaining rail.
• Before using a blade or scissors to trim away any excess flap material from the inside the channel, make sure the fabric is pushed tight into the curve of the channel. Rubber seal should be fitted later..
• Apply contact cement to the side sections of the rear retainer flaps, both left and right.
• Once the cement has become very tacky, set the rear side portions of the top on the rail, remember the notch in the flap goes flush with the end of the rail.
• Again, once you are satisfied that the skirt is a flush continuation of the rail, place the flap and using the blunt stuffing tool apply pressure to permanently set the flap into the channel.
• This procedure is repeated for the other side.
• Trim excess if necessary.
The key to a trouble-free installation at the front of the top is keeping in mind that the front bow and listing stitch are your reference points when gluing the top to the header bow.
• Apply contact cement to the header bow and front of the top.
• When setting the front of the top to the header bow, begin by straddling the listing over the front bow and make sure the corner is properly positioned.
• Work your way across the front, keeping the stitch and bow alignment uniform while placing the top to the header bow.
• Go to the opposite corner, and place the remaining portion of the front to the header bow.
• Remember the stitch should be positioned uniformly over the first bow.
• Continue to check and reposition as necessary.
• Once you are satisfied with the front of the top, install the cable screws in the header bow.
• Using an upholstery pin, locate the exact position in the top that will align the screw with the cable eyelet and the hole in the header bow.
• Once this has been found, mark the spot and with a punch make a small hole in the top.
• Pull the side cables thru the pockets with the strings provided. If the strings have been removed, use a wire pull to fish them through.
• Put the chrome phillips screw through the screw eyelet, through the top material, the cable eyelet and into the header bow.
• Apply contact cement to the underside of the header bow at the ends and along the front edge of the header and deck.
• Once the contact cement becomes tacky, use a blunt tool to set the front of the top to the underside of the header bow.
• Apply contact cement to the underside of the front side flaps and set into place.
• With the front corners now in place, apply contact cement to the outer side of the front side flaps and to the horizontal door glass seal.
• Allow time for the glue to set and place the seal into position.
• When fitting the top under the header bow, the excess material is removed by making two relief cuts.
• The first cut is made along the deck seam and should stop about 3/4 of an inch from the leading edge.
• The second relief cut will be near the end of the header bow. Work the excess material into a pleat.
• Make the second notch cut leaving about 5/16 inch of material from the apex of the cut to the edge of the header bow. Trim the reinforcement as well.
• Apply contact cement to the pull tab you have just created and pulling it inward toward the center of the header bow, cement the tab into place.
• Contact cement can now be applied and the remaining front of the quarter glued into place.
• The front of the top is now ready for final trim.
• Make sure enough material is left so that unfinished edge of the top underlies the weatherseal retainer and not beyond.
• The retainer screws should fall about 3/16 to 1/4 of an inch inside the trimmed edge.
• Re-install the header bow weatherseal retainer.
• The weatherseal is held into the retainer by an interlocking lip.
• Using a blunt tool, work the seal back into the retainer.
• Apply adhesive to the end of the header bow and the weatherseal.
Press the end of the seal into place.
• Install the horizontal door glass seal retainer.
• The weatherseal is interlocked in its retainer with a blunt stuffing tool.
• Thread the side tension cable through the hole at the top of the vertical frame member, route it around the stud and bring it back through the lower hole.
• With the pliers, pull the cable taut and tighten the cable stud nut.
• Cement the pull tab to the vertical member by applying contact cement to both surfaces and pulling the tab tight enough to properly position the binding to the edge of the frame then set the tab.
• With the upper and lower side corners set, apply contact cement to the vertical frame member and vertical flap.
• The extra material has been left at the bottom of the flap to bridge the gap between the bottom of the vertical frame member and the body of the car.
• Glue and fold the material forming a seal of sorts which lies on the body.
• Trim the excess material.
• Set the vertical flap into place on the frame using a blunt stuffing tool to press it firmly into the corner. Trim the excess flap material.
• Use a pointed tool to find the hole in the frame member for the flat head screw and eyelet.
• Make a hole for the screw. Install the screw and eyelet.
• Locate and make the necessary screws holes for the retainer.
• Install the vertical door glass seal retainer with the retainer screws.
• Now install the vertical door glass seal, again interlocking the seal lip into place with a blunt stuffing tool.
• When attaching the listings to the bows, keep in mind that the unfinished portion of the listing is wrapped around the bow first and the portion with the folded finished edge is installed last to provide a nice finished look and avoiding unsightly frayed edges.
• It is best to use two light coats of spray adhesive on the listings.
• Protect the top from overspray and apply contact cement to the bow and the unfinished listing edge.
• When the adhesive is tacky, wrap the listing around the bow and smooth it out.
• Apply more adhesive to the covered bow and finished edge.
• When adhesive is tacky wrap listing around the bow in the opposite direction.
• Smooth out the listing and repeat the procedure for the remaining bows.
• Remember the unfinished edge is wrapped first followed by the folded edge.
• With everything else in order the rear retainer can be raised to the vertical position for installation of the rubber seal.
• Interlock the lip of the rubber seal into the channel using a blunt stuffing tool and work the lip into the channel.
• Start the installation from the center and work toward the end. It may be necessary to apply soap as a lubricant.
• Latch the top into position.
• Use contact adhesive to glue the horizontal side seals which have been provided in the space between the door glass and the horizontal flap on the top.
• Remove tools and protective coverings.
• Check for excess adhesive and clean off with solvent.
Elapsed time approximately 4 hours.
07-12-2013, 07:55 PM
#30
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2000 CLK 430 Convertible
3 ways to release your convertible top!
IF your convertible control button is flashing red, and your top won't come down, try these steps below:
1st. Make sure back headrests are down, otherwise the top won't go down.
2nd: Make sure the roll bar, inside the trunk is on correctly, roll the piece of material all the way up, and pull some of it out to the front, so it won't hang too much, then attach the plastic piece.
3rd: Make sure you "unhook" the latch inside your car then push the top up alittle. Then press the release button and hold, it will light up "red" and keep holding it until it "beeps" then release.
1st. Make sure back headrests are down, otherwise the top won't go down.
2nd: Make sure the roll bar, inside the trunk is on correctly, roll the piece of material all the way up, and pull some of it out to the front, so it won't hang too much, then attach the plastic piece.
3rd: Make sure you "unhook" the latch inside your car then push the top up alittle. Then press the release button and hold, it will light up "red" and keep holding it until it "beeps" then release.
07-12-2013, 07:56 PM
#31
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2000 CLK 430 Convertible
3 ways to release your convertible top!
IF your convertible control button is flashing red, and your top won't come down, try these steps below:
1st. Make sure back headrests are down, otherwise the top won't go down.
2nd: Make sure the roll bar, inside the trunk is on correctly, roll the piece of material all the way up, and pull some of it out to the front, so it won't hang too much, then attach the plastic piece.
3rd: Make sure you "unhook" the latch inside your car then push the top up alittle. Then press the release button and hold, it will light up "red" and keep holding it until it "beeps" then release.
1st. Make sure back headrests are down, otherwise the top won't go down.
2nd: Make sure the roll bar, inside the trunk is on correctly, roll the piece of material all the way up, and pull some of it out to the front, so it won't hang too much, then attach the plastic piece.
3rd: Make sure you "unhook" the latch inside your car then push the top up alittle. Then press the release button and hold, it will light up "red" and keep holding it until it "beeps" then release.
07-22-2013, 02:23 AM
#32
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Clk 320
I also have an '04 cab, and I had the same problem with the microswitch on the left side. At first I used gaff tape to keep the switch open, but have solved it permanently by drilling a hole in the plastic and installing a cotter-pin type thing in there - keeping the limit switch always on. I just have to be sure that the partition is pulled down!
And to the person who said their battery is dying - if it's an original 04' battery, it's time for a new one!
And to the person who said their battery is dying - if it's an original 04' battery, it's time for a new one!
03-13-2014, 12:58 PM
#34
TRUNK PARTITIONER STRUT REMOVAL
Recently purchased a 2005 clk500 cabriolet. Trunk partitioner will not hold microswitch in "closed" position. From reading these forae, I have determined I need to replace the struts. I have partially opened top and can see the struts. Now what?? Is there a how to video available on line for dummies? Ty.
03-13-2014, 01:05 PM
#35
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Snowbird - TN/KW
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2006 CLK 350
I don't know of a video. I think I changed my struts with the top closed and the trunk lid open. There is a strut on each side of the partition and a little clip on each end of the strut that holds the ball in the socket. Remove the clip and pop the ball off the socket. You can obtain new struts from a dealer, or genetic ones from the internet, or maybe even find a business on the net that would rebuild the old ones. I opted for measuring the original ones and purchasing replacement from the internet. It's been a few years and no problems so far. Russ
03-13-2014, 11:11 PM
#41
MBworld Guru
The "ball" head on the end of the strut will have a metal "band" that wraps over it. You place a screwdriver under the metal band and lift it gently off the ball Now that ball can be removed from the pin that it's connected to on the partition.
03-14-2014, 11:00 PM
#45
MBworld Guru
You don't need to re-use the clips - new struts come with new clips. And you will need to either remove the carpet or open the top to get to the front attachment points. If the top won't operate because of the partition cover, then you could temporarily place something int he microswitch to keep it closed (i.e. fool it) while you work on the struts.
03-21-2014, 07:00 PM
#46
Junior Member
I am soo confused "close trunk partition"
I am so confused. I have did so much research but without a video or clear pics Im soo lost. I took pictures of what I believe is the partition.
03-21-2014, 07:08 PM
#47
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's not hard. You took pics of the partition? The partition itself cannot be confused with anything else. It's gray plastic, about three feet wide and 6" tall. In the center it has an oval hole for your fingers to fit in. It runs from side to side on the "roof" of your trunk right below the trunk hinges.
03-21-2014, 07:11 PM
#48
MBWorld Fanatic!
Once you are sure you found the partition, let me know your next question. We can walk you through it. If you can make toast you can change the struts. Really.
03-21-2014, 07:22 PM
#49
Junior Member
Yes I took pics ok so I understand the partition.but as far as closing it im lost..I don't see an option on mobile to attach pics..
It's not hard. You took pics of the partition? The partition itself cannot be confused with anything else. It's gray plastic, about three feet wide and 6" tall. In the center it has an oval hole for your fingers to fit in. It runs from side to side on the "roof" of your trunk right below the trunk hinges.
03-21-2014, 07:23 PM
#50
Junior Member
