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Here's a photo I found on the web. The large part is the valve cover and that will use a pre-formed gasket where it mates to the head. The smaller part fits onto the valve cover and that's where you use the black RTV sealant.
I used RTV sealant and it didn't seem to seal 100%. There is very little seepage, very little. Not enough to hardly even dirty the covers. Most likely I will re-seal them with original Mercedes sealant to ensure 100% seal.
For the breather covers, you don't need genuine MBZ sealant - black RTV works just fine. I do, however, recommend genuine MBZ gaskets for the cover-to-head surface. I used Victor Reinz and they leaked. When I replaced them with OEMs, I realized they VR's were just too thin.
I used dark grey RTV. They didn't have black. If you clean all the gunk out and put a good even bead down you shouldn't have any leaks. I torqued the valve cover down to 5Nm over multiple passes. I started with finger tight and final torque once it had cured. Sounds overkill but it worked perfectly. I also used genuine MB gaskets after reading some of Rodney's previous posts.
[QUOTE=Rudeney;6281400]Here's a photo I found on the web. The large part is the valve cover and that will use a pre-formed gasket where it mates to the head. The smaller part fits onto the valve cover and that's where you use the black RTV sealant.
Hello all,
May you please kindly advice me is this the leaking from the valve cover gasket? and in 6 months ago I just fill up the oil to top for my car but then now it showing 1.5L require to fill up, I think most likely because of this leakage.
Thanks in advance as I'm a fresh mechanic here lol
Probably the valve cover gaskets and the breather cover. All that gunk wipes off the coil packs quite easily. I would pull it all apart, clean it really well and replace gaskets. 1.5L sounds like a bit much to lose from there but I would see what your oil usage is after replacing the gaskets.
I would also get some corrugated plastic tube to cover those wires running towards the alternator. Maybe a good time for spark plugs and leads if you haven't done them already.
Yep, that looks like the typical leak you get from the valves and breather covers. Like TW2 said, I am surprised it would leak 1.5l in 6 months, but then a bit of oil burning (say 1 liter per 10K miles) along with the leak and you're probably in the normal range.
Yep, that looks like the typical leak you get from the valves and breather covers. Like TW2 said, I am surprised it would leak 1.5l in 6 months, but then a bit of oil burning (say 1 liter per 10K miles) along with the leak and you're probably in the normal range.
Thanks Rudeney and TW2, ok let's fix the valves covers first then I will check everywhere lol
For the breather covers, you don't need genuine MBZ sealant - black RTV works just fine. I do, however, recommend genuine MBZ gaskets for the cover-to-head surface. I used Victor Reinz and they leaked. When I replaced them with OEMs, I realized they VR's were just too thin.
A year ago or so, I bought Victor Reinz valve cover gaskets, right and left. By that time I replaced the right side gasket only. I also used sealant to hold the gasket while installing the cover back to place. Short after, it starts to leak. Today I replaced the right side gasket with original MB; no sealants. It did not fall. I used Curil T to seal the breather cover. Yeah, I cleaned the valve cover to perfection before installing the gasket. Next week I will replace the left side for the first time. It seems complicated because of the breather hoses. Tight space to work with. I will replace the breather hoses too. I'm still concerned about the proper way to remove that air box at the back to disconnect the breather hoses and install the new ones. I would appreciate any tip.
Yes, it is very difficult to work connect the breather hoses. Removal of the MAF sensor can help. For cars older than 8 years, it's often necessary to just replace thhe hoses and sometime even the clips an seals for the MAF sensor.
Yes, it is very difficult to work connect the breather hoses. Removal of the MAF sensor can help. For cars older than 8 years, it's often necessary to just replace thhe hoses and sometime even the clips an seals for the MAF sensor.
I ordered a kit with all 4 breather hoses and connectors. One of the connectors, a sort of "T", goes on the throttle body. I searched for many photos of the TB and connectors but still cannot figure out what goes on the connection marked "A" on top and "B" at the bottom of the connector. Attached is a photo of the connector with some notes.
Last edited by fernmc; 01-10-2015 at 11:46 PM.
Reason: replacing photo
I used ngk laser iridium, part number is on their website and on here somewhere. Very cheap on ebay. Or you can use stock Bosch?
Any socket set has the right socket to remove the spark plug. The tool is for removing the ignition leads from the plugs and i cannot emphasize how much easier it makes it.
Let me ask anyone: the right valve cover has 9 screws. 5 at the top, 4 at the bottom. Two of the 5 screws at the top are longer because they sit on the breather cover. The question is: the other 7 screws are shorter but are they the size? Answering my own question after visiting MB dealer: The 7 shorter screws are all the same size.
One more thing...I did buy a thin-wall plug socket which worked great. The question is whether you really need a thin wall socket. I thought I'd let you know that I mistakenly tried using a conventional plug socket and I couldn't get it to seat on the plug. That's when I went back to the thin-wall and no problemo.
Yep thats the tool. I think it even says mercedes 17mm boot puller or something similar. Worth every cent. In reality it is just a strange looking 17mm spanner but the shape is just right for levering the metal boots off. I used a regular 17mm spanner before this and it was much more difficult.
Maybe I got lucky with my socket set
Originally Posted by fernmc
Let me ask anyone: the right valve cover has 9 screws. 5 at the top, 4 at the bottom. Two of the 5 screws at the top are longer because they sit on the breather cover. The question is: the other 7 screws are shorter but are they the size?
Are you asking if the other bolts are the same thread/pitch? Yes I believe they are.
I replaced the right side valve gasket and breather cover seal a few days ago. I used MB gasket and applied 9 Nm torque. It's holding. However, the breather cover is leaking a lot at the bottom. I used Curil-T based on what I've read in many posts. I cleaned the cover and base well, applied what I thought be a good amount of sealant but something didn't work. Maybe I should have pressed the sealant with a putty knife on the breather cover instead of just putting it there with the sealant tube, or maybe I didn't apply the right torque [I got 4 Nm on those 2 smaller screws of the breather cover], or maybe Curil-T is not right for this application. I still have to redo that cover. I would appreciate your comments.
I replaced the right side valve gasket and breather cover seal a few days ago. I uses MB gasket and applied 9 Nm torque. It's holding. However, the breather cover is leaking a lot on the bottom. I used Curil-T based on what I've read in many posts. I cleaned the cover and base well, applied what I thought be a good amount of sealant but something didn't work. Maybe I should have pressed the sealant with a putty knife on the breather cover instead of just putting it there with the sealant tube, or maybe I didn't apply the right torque [I got 4 Nm on those 2 screws of the breather cover], or maybe Curil-T is not right for this application. I still have to redo that cover. I would appreciate your comments.
I did some search after my comment above. It seems that Curil-T is not for that type of breather cover. I used Curil-T based on information posted at Pelican Technical Articles. I am pretty sure I cleaned that valve cover well. I still may have accidentally screwed up on the torque, but I have doubts that I did. Reviewing additional information after the fact, the breather cover and base, is a type of tongue-and-groove joint. Based on information posted at Elring website, the manufacturer of Curil, the Curil-T maximum fillable gap is 0.1 mm. This would be the gap of a precision flange joint, which is not the case of a tongue-and-grove type. This means we need a sealant capable to fill a larger gap, not to mention other specifications like temperature range, resistance to oil and so on. I decided to reopen the breather cover and use original Mercedes Benz sealant part #003-989-98-20-10. This would eliminate the doubt whether I'm using the right product or not.
Yes definitely use the mercedes sealant or regular RVT grey or black. Don't over do the torque on the breather bolts. They are aluminum and can snap easily. I used 5Nm for the main valve cover bolts. The tiny breather cover bolts I did them all as tight as I could get them with my fingers using only the torx bit and then about 90 degrees with the wrench.
Yes definitely use the mercedes sealant or regular RVT grey or black. Don't over do the torque on the breather bolts. They are aluminum and can snap easily. I used 5Nm for the main valve cover bolts. The tiny breather cover bolts I did them all as tight as I could get them with my fingers using only the torx bit and then about 90 degrees with the wrench.
I used Curil-T gasket maker at the breather valve cover. Wrong product for this application. I was in doubt whether I did something wrong or the product. was not right I opened that cover and guess what: the sealant was almost all gone! I filled the breather cover groove completely with Curil-T. There was any left in the cover. This means that sealant was burned out, or dissolved by oil. I know now it was the wrong product for the application. I just used because of a post at Pelican Technical Article where the guy shows a photo and states "it is by far the best compound" - WRONG! Not for this application. It cost me hours and hours of work to find it out by myself. I also want to mention about the valve cover gasket information in this forum. It's misleading. You see photos of a hairy hand applying generous amount of sealant over the rubber gasket and its base as well. You do not use any sealant on the rubber gasket. It is designed to fit in the groove of the cover and seats flat on the valve cover base. The groove holds the gasket in place while installing and it is compressed by the cover against its base to seal the valve cover. If you use sealant changes are that pieces will fall into the engine.
I haven't looked at page 1 for a long time. I did not apply sealant to the rubber gasket for the valve cover, only the breather cover. If the metal sealing surface of the head is free of debris and the valve cover is clean then the rubber gasket should seal perfectly on its own.
I haven't looked at page 1 for a long time. I did not apply sealant to the rubber gasket for the valve cover, only the breather cover. If the metal sealing surface of the head is free of debris and the valve cover is clean then the rubber gasket should seal perfectly on its own.
01-02-2015, 09:58 PM
