daryenne

The other day I tried to put the top down and I got the message to close the trunk partition. I have done this countless times in the past, but this time when I pulled it towards me, it seems very loose and it will not stay in the closed position. It just flops back towards the front of the car. Can anyone tell me if this is common, and how costly a fix is it going to be? Thank you!

Yidney

It's a pretty simple part. It's just a piece of plastic that hangs from a couple hinges. What is pulling it forward is that it is connected to what looks like a window shade on a spring roller that forms the roof of the trunk. I forget now what holds it back in postion, but it isn't much. If you cannot figure out what it latches to from inside the trunk, then I'd fool your top so you can look at it from above. If you open your trunk and look where the lower edge of the divider hits on the far left you'll see it hits a tiny switch mounted on the car. It is not holding that switch in, which is why you cannot put your top down. Take a small piece of tape and use it to hold the switch closed. Now your car will think the partion is closed. Now you can partly lower your top until the back flap is straight up and look at the partion from the top side. I don't think there is much that holds it closed.

RussWhite

There are gas springs on each end of the partition. Like all gas springs, they seem to wear out too quickly. I replaced mine with ones I orderd on the net and it all works like new now. Pull the partition down and the gas springs hold it tightly against the limit switch keeping the controller happy and allowing my top to go up and down. Russ

daryenne

I am going to look for new gas springs, as that seems to be what is preventing the partition from staying in the closed position.

RussWhite

Here is a link to where I ordered replacement gas springs online.

http://www.spdhardware.com/

I measured what was in my 06 CLK 350 and purchased two springs with P/N SPD-GSNI-4240-11. Total cost with shipping was about $42.

Good luck.

Russ

DangermouseCLK

Great info. I'll be ordering a couple of these shortly.

Had to drop the SPD part of the p/n to fine them

p/n GSNI-4240-11

many thanks

CobraMarty

You guys are the best. At first I placed 2 small pieces of double sided foam tape which kept the switched closed. I ordered the gas springs above. They are better than the mercedes in that they have screw on ends and can be slightly adjusted/lengthened if needed. Install was less than 5 mins. Took longer to get the car out and open the top. Just needed a screwdriver to help pry off the ends. New ones snapped right back on. Works great. Forget the 'stealership' and do it yourself.

RussWhite

So glad it worked well for you. Forums are a great way to share information. Thanks for letting us know how it worked out! Russ

marian122559

I have a 2004 clk 320. The top won't go down. I took the gas struts off but I can't figure out the part number to order new ones. I'm a girl and I would appreciate any help.

Thanks

Yidney

So were you getting the "trunk partition open" message on your cluster?

Yidney

Actually, if you look up about three posts sombody posted the part # and a website.

sebbyzar

Hello all,
This is my first post and I'm so happy to find a solution to my issue.
I was about to go to a Benz dealer to have this part changed, but it seems to be not so difficult.
I am about to buy the part you referenced above, but just before, I tried to remove the weak gas spring. I have correct access from above by stoping half way the opening roof (and pretending the partitioner is open with a trick).
But I can't remove the old gas spring.
I see no screw or bolt to be removed, I tried just to pull it, but it didn't come...
How are we supposed to remove the gas spring ?
Thank you for help !

Rudeney

There is a metal clip on the end of the strut head that needs to be loosened in order for the head to pop off of the ball joint. This photo should help (it's not your actual application, but it should be very similar):

sebbyzar

Thank you Rodney.
This is exactly the answer I needed!
I managed to loosen the clip and remove the gas spring !
I ordered a new pair of them even if just one is weak...
Thanks again.

rozenfeld43

I learn from your advice that I have the same problem. Do you know if GSNI-4240-11fits 2007 CLK550?

RussWhite

I am sorry, but I don't know what might fit your car. I think if you measure carefully and go to the web site you should be able to find a match. Good luck! Russ

rozenfeld43

thank you so much. does anyone know the spring part # that fits 2007 clk550 or the size?

TAR

Have finally gotten around to replacing the gas struts that enable the trunk partition to be moved in and out of position. I am grateful for the tips provided in this forum that allowed me to find the replacement struts and complete the job my self. The struts were indeed worn out and offered little resistance. However, I still have a problem! I am still getting the message that I need to close the partition!! When I examine the switch when the partition is in the down position, ie ready to receive the top, it appears to me that the switch mounted n the LH side is not being engaged or depressed. Is it possible that some additional parts have broken or misaligned? Any suggestions?

Rudeney

Check the gas strut - I believe there is some adjustment to make it extend further.

TAR

Ummm, not sure how to adjust the strut. Any suggestions? The strut I ordered is the one suggested in a previous posting, from the same vendor located in Ohio. The length is fixed, it appears, with the only adjustment being that which occurs when the piston is extended by motion of the partition. When fully extended, the partition is close to engaging the switch, but not quite. I am really perplexed! BTW, like a previous poster, I too note that the resistance offered by the new struts is significantly greater than it was prior to the struts replacement, so I know that some good has come from what has been accomplished. But i still can't put my top down!!!

DangermouseCLK

You cannot adjust the strut in situ.

One end of the strut has a threaded connector. You need to take the strut out and "unthread" it a little, but not too much. This makes the whole assembly just a little longer. Only unthread it enough that when the strut is re-installed, the micro-switch is made. There may be a little trial and error involved.

SilverCLK

I just put GSNI-4240-11 from Spd Hardware in my '05 CLK500. they work perfectly with no adjustments. It does take more force to move the partition in place, but thats fine - the original were a little flimsy (industry term)

Not affiliated with Spd. Just a happy customer :-)

wburke07

hi all:

I have a 2005 CLK55 cabriolet and took the advice listed above for the company and model number of the shock to order. It took about a 5 days from ordering on line to receiving the shocks. Some notes:


1. The only tool I needed was a small flat blade screwdriver.
a. You only need this to remove the existing shocks -- there is a metal "clip" surrounding the ends (no screws hold the shock in place). You just need to loosed the metal clips (you have to put the blade in from the middle of the shock pointing towards the ball end -- the clip lifts up off the ball end) and the end pops out. You may need to move the tray partition to easily get the orientation right to do this.
b. Its easier to remove the end of the shock that is mounted to the body (trunk side) first. You will need to "remove" (just enough to gain access) some of the interior body work to easily get to the connection point.
c. I did one side at a time, just to keep it simple and if I forgot how it goes together, I have the other side to reference.

2. Adjusting the size of the new shock
a. measure from the center point of the mounting *****. I found that I needed to turn the lower ball about 3-4 times. You don't need to be that exact. Slightly longer is better as it pushes back onto the switch.

3. Installing the new shock
a. Once you have the length right, just pop them in -- really! No tools required. I put the ball end on the tray partition first then the trunk mount location afterwards. Seems like the should not go in that easy, but they are in there -- not loose at all.
b. The shock is definitely stiffer which is what you want.

4. Time and Cost
a. Total time was about 10 minutes and that included removing some of the interior body work, etc.
b. Cost for the pair was $52 which included $11 for shipping.

Constantinos79

Hi there, it seems I have the exact same problem with my roof separator. Do you know any shops that ship this to Europe? It seems this dealer doesn't ship outside the US.

justify73

I know this is an old thread, but thanks to the OP for this information, and thanks to wburke07 for the detailed instructions. I was able to easily access both ends of the strut without removing any of the interior trunk liner - Just used a long flathead screwdriver to get both out when the trunk lid was open.

I wasn't able to get the aftermarket parts in this thread - Had to order the MB parts (the parts here have a 3 month delivery delay for some reason).

Thanks again!

Matt