Nicholi2007

Is this manifold better designed? I'll have to go with a repair if I can't find anyone to install it.

BTW I just read about law firm investigating about a class action.

Nicholi2007

Just want to post a followup: I repaired the manifold but can't get the engine readiness monitors to set. Has anyone encountered this issue?

Rudeney

Try the drive cycle:

http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf

Nicholi2007

Thanks RODNEY. I've driven the car over 800 miles with a combo of city and highway. I've tried a few drive cycles. I'm starting to think it's something else...

Rudeney

But did you follow those steps? There was a guy on the W203 forum that had the same issue - one of the readiness indicators would not set. He thought he had done it all, too, but one he followed this cycle, it finally set. His issue was that it was very cold where he was, so he had issues getting the temperature high enough, which may have been caused by a bd coolant thermostat.

Nicholi2007

1. I have not attempted that drive cycle in it's entirety. I'll need like 3:00 in the morning with L.A. traffic.

2. I'm going to take it in to have the dealer scan for any codes. I want to rule this out. I've waited so much gas.

3. My engine temp is just north of 85 but suddenly I don't have any heat. Just blows cold air. When it rains it pours.

Nicholi2007

UPDATE:
The shop foreman at the dealer says he believes the issue relates to the software on the ME control Unit. OE tuning did a tune and emphatically state that they don't turn off O2 sensors. I did not tell the shop foreman because I don't want to open up another can of worms.

The shop foreman found a software upgrade an uploaded it.

Something must have gone wrong with OE tuning's tune. So far they are denying it. OE tuning does offer a free re-flash.

Nicholi2007

Update: Car has archived engine readiness. Hooray!

The latest software updater corrected it.

RussWhite

I am in the midst of replacing the intake manifold.
Hopefully in the attached picture you can easily see the actuator arm broken from the plastic bell crank. So, at least, I am not doing this for nothing.

In the center of the image you should see a short hose. One end is attached just below the center vacuum diaphragm. When I lifted the front of the intake manifold up the other end did not seem to be connected to anything. It is a short hose and could not reach far. It does not appear to be broken, although I suppose that is possible. The end is a very clean and 90 degree face to the axis of the hose. Looks almost as if it was never connected, but I know that is not possible.
I am just posting hoping someone might know what is going on with that hose. I will continue and remove the manifold and maybe when that is done something will appear that I cannot now see.


Thanks,
Russ 2006 CLK350 cabriolet

RussWhite

Never mind! After the manifold was out I could see it had slipped off the OD of a plastic cream colored vacuum tube. It is the only thing close enough and has to be where it goes. It would be nice if the hose was a little longer. I will probably go back with a new hose and lengthen it a bit.
Russ

bbuchanan

I finally tackled this one. Took about 4 hours end to end. It wound up begin no big deal, Spent over and hour cleaning the engine intake ports and the manifold itself, but went back together no problem. CEL turned right off! Drives MUCH better.

It did not fix the problem I was after, a subtle engine surge at about 1200 to 1800 RPMs when the engine is under load. Not going down a hill, but up. Can barley feel it in the seat a slight surge and the tach moves about 50 RPMs several times a second. And when it is doing this, and you try to accelerate quickly there is a stumble and then it gets going.


Ill start a new thread...

swens

I'm having the same issues on my C-Class. The dealer wants $2K to replace. I can buy the part new for 1K but I'm wondering how big a job this is? Does anyone have a step by step for this repair. I'm not afraid to do it as long as it's not over my head. I've rebuilt engines before and probably have enough tools to make a full time technician jealous. I'm just looking for some reliable input and suggestions here. Thanks in advance!

Nicholi2007

If you've rebuilt engines, it's should not pose a problem. You're basically disconnecting and reconnecting. It definitely take a few hours.

Here's a video:

One thing I would suggest is to replace with the upgraded metal kit instead of the plastic. That's the reason why they fail. If you just put the new one without upgrading to metal, it will likely it will fail.

Benz claims it addressed this issue but I think they are full off crap.

W211_350WagoN

Goto Advance auto and asked them to look up the part through world pac(OEM) use online discount and speed perks about 5-$600
I did mine last summer and used every discount I could find, had them order it so I was instock in store so I could order online with store pick up.
​​​​​​​GOOD LUCK!!

swens

Thanks to all!

virtuo0

Would it be possible for the manifold to be broken and no check engine light? My dealer told me about 2 years ago that the flap is broken but its ok to drive. I don't have a check engine light and the car passes emission test every year. Get a good fuel mileage also. Curious!!

Nicholi2007

Yes, it happened to me. No check engine light but it felt sluggish and there was loss of power. Engine readiness prevented it from passing emissions.

If it were broken, the engine readiness would be effected. Get an OBII and scan it or go to an emission place for a free scan. Some states allow only one failure and other states two to pass.

if the flap is broken, your dealer is insane. - you would risk further damage. Something does not add up.

virtuo0

I have OBDII scanner, will check. I didn't know that I can do emission test with it. I thought it only reads the codes from on board computer.

There is definitely no loss of power. No performance issues. its a 06 CLK 350.

Thanks.

Nicholi2007

It should be able to check engine readiness

virtuo0

Dealer mentioned it to me when i visited the shop due to CIL ( major evap leak). They didn't find anything first time but second time he said intake manifold needs replacement. Funny thing is after they cleared the CIL second time, it never came back due to that reason. Its 2 years since and car passed 2 emission tests and runs great.

Nicholi2007

If the manifold was broken one or more of the engine readiness monitors would be in "not ready" status. OBII will verify. I don't trust any dealer until I see codes that confirm. There would be a code stored but not necessarily a check engine light.

virtuo0

Thanks a lot for confirming my suspicion. I used OBII to read codes multiple times and there is no code stored.

Nicholi2007

That won't read a manifold code. Those general readers only can do so much. But if the manifold was broken something would be blinking.

If it's all good, it looks like the attached photo.

Rudeney

Actually, if the MIL is illuminated, a generic OBDII scanner should be able to pull code(s) that will tell you something useful. Manifold flap issues do have generic "P" codes that such a tool would report. The caveat is that sometime one generic OBDII "P" code can represent multiple MBZ-specific DTCs, but at least it's a start.

Nicholi2007

Mine did not pick up any codes. It's as cheap as they come. Engine readiness monitors were flashing so I knew there was a big problem. NO CEL which is not uncommon.