virtuo0

I have a cheap Maxiscan OBDII which is under $20. I checked the manual and it does have capability to read monitor status. I am going to try it out.

Rudeney

I suppose it's possible to have a manifold problem without it throwing an error. As for readiness indicator issues, try the drive cycle:

http://benzbits.com/Drive_Cycle_Readiness.pdf

virtuo0

Thank you, I will try it.

It baffles me that this is a premium car and it has so many plastic parts and they break so often.

I replaced few few times and just gave up. (Gear shift base plate, door sil plates etc).

Rudeney

In the good old days, manifolds didn't have tumble flaps and interior trim parts were real metal. But also, we didn't have seatbelts or sub-6-second 0-60 times. :-)

virtuo0

I spent $3K last week replacing upper, lower control arms, bushings, spark plugs, side indicator lamp/ socket and B service at Dealer. It may not be a bad price for the number of things I got done but its almost 50% of my cars value (06 CLK). Is it supposed to be like that? Even for MB? Whats the upper threshold for fixing car with 100K miles? I am just praying that I am out of balance shaft issue because of 100K miles but I know its not true. If this breakdown I am going to buy a Honda/Hyundai/Toyota.

Rudeney

If you're going to rely on the dealer to do your work, you're going to re-buy the car many times over. I could have done all that myself for around $650 in parts and an afternoon of my time int he garage. Even if the labor took 8 hours, at $100/hr, that's only an additional $800 in labor, so you basically paid about twice the price for the "pleasure" of going tot he MBZ dealer. Whethter you keep this car or trade for something less complex, my advice is to either find a good indy shop or learn to DIY.

virtuo0

I used the OBD scanner to read the readiness monitors without drive cycle. Other than HCM, A/C and EGR everything is ready. These 3 are N/A or not supported.

Will try drive cycle later.

Nicholi2007

+1 - The only time I go to the dealer is hard to diagnose issues or if they're running a special. It's not that much higher for some things and I get the car vacuumed and washed for free.

virtuo0

What monitors does 06 CLK support? Is there any place find out vehicle year and supported monitors?

I understand that A/C is not relevant. What about Heated catalyst and EGR?

Thanks for the inputs.

sandyharry

Dealer said it was stuck or broken flaps and wanted to charge me $150 to diagnose. Said needed to put a camera somewhere to see if he can unstick or if not, the intake needed replacing...said wont hurt car, just wont pass emissions...


Where is he sticking camera? I don't see any ports to look at flaps? If the plastic rods are broken, cant you just see them visually like most on this site?


Can you fix/replace plastic rods without having to take off manifold?


thanks

sandyharry

[QUOTE=RNajarian;6693546]I'll chime in because this just happened to me . . .

Last month at 104,000 miles in my 2007 CLK 350, while driving 65 mph on the freeway I got a check engine light.

My trusted mechanic/cousin plugged in his Snap-On ODB2 scanner and got these codes 0522 (intake manifold tumble flap) and 0856 (thermostat)




I had the same pair of check engine lights 0522/0856...Have read other places of the same pair of codes happening. Any reason the failure of the stat and the intake manifold happen at the same time??? Doesn't make a lot of sense why they would happen together...a lot of coincidences the two happen at same time...

sandyharry

Can you clean sticky tumbler flaps or is it a waste of time as the damage is already done?

Rudeney

I don't think the flaps are sticky - I think either they are broken or the actuators are broken. Either way, you wan to be careful here - you don't want broken manifold parts sucked into the engine as that could be VERY costly to repair (more than a $500-$800 intake manifold).

Bill51sdr

The plastic actuator is what broke on my CLK 350, apparently it is a fairly common problem considering the number of aftermarket kits there are to fix it and much less expensive than a new manifold if this is your problem.

Nektopoli

Anyone try or succeed in replacing the actuator with the manifold still bolted in the car, I notice some have left a lot of stuff still hooked up and just lifted the front part of the manifold up enough to get to the actuator.

NP

MrMiky

So apparently I might have this very situation! I pulled up codes and it gave the P20006 and P20030. Intake manifold runner stuck open bank 1, and misfiring issues. This was a generic obd by the way from autozone. No performance issues, 26+ gas mileage, drives great etc. Just being cautious as I hear parts can get stuck into valve, which would be worse.


I have read as much as I could read on this forum, and have also watched multiple videos from youtube.


I have also compiled diagrams provided by rudeney from benzbits etc.
http://benzbits.com/m272/IntakeManifold.pdf


I think I have decided to replace the entire intake manifold myself, I am somewhat ok with DIY, but would be my first time on a benz. So a little apprehensive


My question is what should I go for?


1) a refurbished RMT, with the metal lever now attached?
http://www.rebuildmastertech.com/mer...et-2721402401/




2) or should I get a new one from Pierburg who seem to manufacture for mercedez, problem is that the plastic still comes with it.


http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/




Pls if you have any other information on OEM cheap part let me know..


I am also willing to hear "ANY" piece of advise in regards to installing this part, the more redundant the better.




Thanks in advance guys

Rudeney

I'd go with the Pierburg part. I have been unable to verify this, but I believe they may be the OEM.

MrMiky

So would you go for the pierburg and the plastic lever? or should I change that as well? since the new oem come with plastic

Rudeney

Thing is, these don't break with the frequency one would think based on the posts int he forums. Intake manifold problems don't even show as a blip on consumer ratings. Me, I;d by the Pierburg, put it in, and drive.

zzdragonz

What did you end up with?

iwannac230

What do you guys recommend to replace the actuator / lever with? Uroparts is selling one

MrMiky

i bought a new pierburg intake. thought about RMT but wasn't sold on it.

Cbwoi

I have a 2008 c300 with the m272 engine and I constantly get a P2006 code for Intake Manifold Bank 1 Runner control Stuck closed. I visually inspected down the front and found that exact broken triangle swivel. But if thats the case then shouldn't I be getting both Bank 1 AND 2 codes? I see one linkage controlling two runners (bigger vaccum actuator) and two smaller vaccum actuators that I assume control the two short runners individually? I looked at some FFD and this code comes under low working parameters like engine Rpm 780, TPS 11.8 degrees... Im definitely going to start by lifting the manifold and replacing the swivel with an aluminium one just because its Visually broken Or should I just swap out the manifold entirely and install one brand new with the aluminum swivel. Help is appreciated

Nicholi2007

It's advisable to use aluminum as the plastic will only break. Unless there's severe damage there is no need to replace the whole manifold.

btv94

How many mile on the replacement tumbler flap before P2004 and P0106 show up?
Thanks,