Glyn M Ruck

I have seen manifolds with other components damaged but it is usually just the plastic actuator (switchover valve) rods that break.

We are having a bit of a language problem but that's OK. Use the terms that Benz use in the diagram & maybe I will understand your question better.

The part you show is now made of cast alloy & the ball head is integral.

Glyn M Ruck

All one requires is a reliable swivel point at these 3 locations on the transfer lever. If its pin & bush or ball & socket does not really matter.

Rudeney

You are right - a lot of this has to do with costs. But regardless, today's "parts swappers" just don't have time to fabricate these types of fixes. Unless they find out that such a fix is permanent, the service manager wouldn't allow it because they'd be afraid that customers would complain, and give them bad scores on their surveys, and then they'd lose some corporate funding...yeah, well, follow the money!

Yeah, some dealer employees just don't get it. I think it's not the mechanics as much as the Service Advisors. When I had some shifting issues after the timing gear repair, I suspected they disconnected a transmission line and it lost some fluid. My SA said they needed to keep the car all day to check the level at different temps which requires the mechanic to let the oil heat then cool, then check it with his finger in an access hole. Of course I had already studied the WIS documentation and knew it was an overflow check at a given temp. So, yes, if the fluid was hot, it may need a few hours to cool down, but not "all day" and no "finger checks". To his credit, I suggested they go ahead and do the fluid/filter change and he said I need to 5K wait until 39K miles.

I think the biggest issue is that most people look at modern MBZ vehicles as too complicated to maintain themselves. I remember this being the issue when EFI was the big thing 30 years ago. Mechanics who were used to just "turning wrenches" and using cups of water resting on fenders to tune carburetors were left behind with modern electronics. I am very fortunate to be fluent in both electronics and mechanics. It's not a rare thing, but it's definitely a different paradigm from 30 and 40 years ago. No wonder modern shops charge $100 or more for labor!

Glyn M Ruck

You are spot on regarding new & old style mechanics. The modern electronic car frightens the old shool. Mention CANbus & they go blank.

Even automatic transmissions frighten many & yet they are not that complex if you are methodical.

In SA where the cars & parts are really expensive & retain value. Most are twice the US price as an example, we have an attitude of repair if at all possible. Also our labour rates are a lot lower than the US.

johnflight1

I took off my intake on my 2006 ML350 because I had codes P2187&2189.
This made me think vacum leak so I was going to change out the gaskets for the intake since these codes are lean both banks at idle.
Whe I removerd the intake I found the cause of my problems.A hole had worn thru the intake from the plastic flaper valves in side the manifold which have all worked loose and fallen apart some were laying on the bottom of the manifold. What a mess.but with all of this I had no change in performance or fuel economy??? Just the 2 codes..................
My plan is to clean it ,out epoxy the small wear hole and see what happens.. The only damage was to the internal flappers the valves at the head ports are all intact and functional. cant hurt to see how it runs,it is not a performance car like my SL or CLK so I can live without the 15% increase in acceleration performance provided by the resonance intake.
I will report on my findings when its all back together and running I have 3 other cars so I can run this experiment I do not recommend others do this

AugieAscot

We recently purchased a 2007 CLK350 cabriolet with 82,000 on the odometer. The car came with a 1,000 mile/1 month drive train warranty. The used car dealership is 80 miles away from our home. After 1 week the Check Engine Light as come on. I connected a code reader and got 3 codes, P2006, P0015, and P0025. The P2006 is the code that has me worried. We took the car back to the dealer and left it over night. I got a call the next day to come and get it, it was ready they told me. All they did was run some fuel injector cleaner though it and gave me another bottle of the stuff to put in the tank.
I’m thinking we’re going to have to take the car to a repair shop ourselves and go to small claims court to recoup our money for the repair. I’m wondering whatever became of the original posters issue. Did the replacement of the shaft cure his problem and he’s been ok since? And is this (the P2006 code) a common issue with this engine?
Thanks, Augie

Glyn M Ruck

P2006 is one of those PIA codes of Benz that means multiple things

P2006 B2/5b1 (intake temperature sensor) (P0110)
P2006 check B6/1 (camshaft Hall sensor). Signal too strong. Short to positive
P2006 check B6/1 (camshaft Hall sensor). Signal too weak. Short to ground
P2006 Component N15/3(ETC control module) is faulty.
P2006 fuel pre-supply pressure sensor implausible
P2006 fuel pre-supply pressure sensor signal value too large
P2006 fuel pre-supply pressure sensor signal value too small
P2006-001 B2/5b1 (outside air temperature sensor) signal, positive/wire open cause
short [p0113]
P2006-002 B2/5b1 (outside air temperature sensor) signal, overload short [P0112]

P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0025 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)

OK reading between the clutter here this is a common condition & you can search the W203 forum for a thread by Johnand & I that explains all.

At the end of the day you need to replace all 4 cam sensor MAGNETS!! ~ not the sensors themselves. Benz has redesigned the magnets & once changed you will not get false alarms. They are cheap & an easy DIY.

Fortunately these are not the codes for the cam chain sprocket wear problem that requires the engine to come out.

Good luck!

Glyn M Ruck

FYI

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen....30-08i-2-.pdf

EDIT: Please note that you do not have the sprocket problem. All you require to do is replace the 4 cam magnets. Best do all 4 & get it behind you.

Glyn M Ruck

Suggest you read through this thread where we sorted through this issue. Took a number of wrong turns until we found the Star message about MAGNETS!

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...iming+retarded

You only need worry if you ever get a P0016 & P0017 together - that is the sprocket issue.

Rudeney

Also, post your VIN and we can check the engine number and let you know if you need to be on the lookout for balance shaft (timing gear) failure problems.

AugieAscot

Thanks for helping the newbe guys! Looks like the dealer is going to fix the 3 problems (fingers cross). He had balked before Friday. Our warranty runs out this week so I was worried. But I called him Friday and he told me to find a shop in our area and have them call him to arrange payment details. Again, fingers crossed. As long as it’s not a $3,000 job I don’t think there will be any problems. I’m just hoping the P2006 code is an external problem and not inside the intake manifold.
Thanks for the help guys, sorry about my slow response.
And thanks for looking to see if our engine might be one with balance shaft issues.
VIN: WDBTK56F07T08****

Rudeney

You have to post the whole VIN. If you are concerned about it being posted publicly, feel free to PM me. But really, I see no problems with that - it's not like a social security number where someone will steal your car's identity.

AugieAscot

Rodney, IM sent. Thank you for looking the information up.
OK, back to work........

Rudeney

PM received and replied. (Your engine is good, Augie)

AugieAscot

Thanks Rodney. The car is in the shop having the intake manifold replace with a new one from Mercedes. $1000 just for the manifold, ouch. The local MB dealer had 3 of them in stock. That tells you something. The only thing that bothers me is the part number is the same. I was hoping the manifold had been improved and the part number had rolled (given a new number to reflect the improvement). Anyway the wife LOVES this car and can't wait to get it back.

Rudeney

Usually it's one of the plastic tumble flap actuators that breaks. It's literally a $5 piece of plastic, but MBZ doesn't make or sell the part individually, so you have to replace the entire manifold. I'll bet it's something that could be fixed either with proper adhesives, heat fusion, or a fabricated part. MBZ won't allow dealers to do "unauthorized" repairs like this so their only option is to replace the entire manifold. It's a fairly rare problem, but it does happen, so there must have been a bad run of these parts.

AugieAscot

Some stuff shouldn’t be made of plastic. We got the car back last night. It was the lever (bell-crank) that Monoglobal posted a picture of in post #17. One ear broke off. This also cured the P0015 and P0025 codes. Cost of the new intake from the local MB dealer was $1,070. It better last. A lot of these plastic parts that can break are on the outside of the manifold and would reduce the price of the repair if they were available. This is our first MB and I didn’t want to start right off putting a major part on it that wasn’t from MB.
It’s the wife’s car but I really like it.
Hey MB…. some stuff shouldn’t be made of plastic.
Thanks for the help guys and I hope nobody else here has this problem.

Glyn M Ruck

Hey! I'm pleased it's fixed! I'm told those plastic parts were "improved"

I do not for the life of me understand how the manifold replacement could fix the common P0015 & P0025 codes. So watch out ~ they might come back. If they do you know it's only 4 cheap magnets that need replacing.

I'm very pleased for your sake that the car is outside the potential sprocket failure window. That's a relief because the job is labour intensive.

AugieAscot

You where right Rodney, the P0015 and P0025 codes are totally unrelated to the manifold problem. But you knew that! So I still have the Check Engine Light on. I'm going to tackle the sensor job myself. I've been searching the forum for info and I’m reading that I should replace the magnets and not the camshaft position sensors. I have a few questions:
There are 4 sensors, and 4 magnets, 2 on the front of each head…right?
Are the magnets located between the sensors in the head? Or are they inside the sensor?
Where can I buy the magnets?
Rockauto has the sensors for $116.79 (US). Parts geek has them for $108.10. I thought I’d read that people where getting them for $45.
Who sells the magnets? Mercedes?
Thanks in advance for any more help.
augie

Glyn M Ruck

You do not generally need sensors. You need magnets. They are separate & you should replace all 4. They have been redesigned. There are some good threads on the W203 forum in this regard with lots of help from johnand's Star & pictures.

Use ONLY genuine magnets but you can buy them from people like Parts.com or RMeuropean.

https://mbworld.org/wiki/index.php/F...e_bulletin.pdf

Glyn M Ruck

See this thread. Be tolerant of our initial posts as we tried to work out what was going on with no information.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...mshaft+magnets

AugieAscot

OK the magnets are the larger items (secured with 3 fasteners) on the end of the heads. The sensor must be the smaller items between the magnets and secured with 1 fastener.
It looks to me that the magnets can only be bought online. Is that right?
Thanks for the quick response Rodney!

AugieAscot

I can't see your pic for some reason. I just ordered four P/N 272-051-01-77 Camshaft adjuster magnets from RMeuropean, $26 apiece. Did I order the wrong ones?

Glyn M Ruck

The price is about right. The picture is wrong. What RME are showing is the camshaft adjuster solenoid.

Please try & see my picture. I can see it perfectly. Make sure you are signed in properly. I have shown the M272/273 magnet!

AugieAscot

ok I'm home now and can see the picture. I also received my order today. RMEuorpean (RME) is fast! After looking at your picture I called RME and talked to a tech and told him I ordered the wrong part. Long story short, lets talk part numbers. Your picture looks just like the OEM Bosch camshaft POSITION SENSOR (P/N 272-905-00-43) that RME sells for $125.92 (out of stock). They also sell one made by FACET for $52.53. The part I received today is P/N 272-051-01-77, camshaft ADJUSTER MAGNET, $26.57.
The codes that I keep getting are P0015 and P0025. Although I am more confused than ever about these "magnets" I'm going to install the parts I received. Thanks for hanging in there with me! I'll let you know how if these keeps the codes from coming back.
augie