Glyn M Ruck

Indeed ~ Shell owns Pennzoil so it is likely the same product. Shell can't re-lable fluid without read across permission from Benz & the Pennzoil product would have to be listed as approved.

Thus far we have found that people that order Pennzoil product in fact receive it in the Shell packaging.

mis3

A few months ago when I was looking for Shell 134, I went to a local Shell gas station. I saw Pennzoil ATF but nowhere in the label stated 134. So I ended up with MB ATF, $25 per liter. I figured better to be safe than putting in the wrong fluid.

tusabes

Let me go against all the debate here and suggest that if you're paying $400 or so for a fluid and filter change every 39k miles , you'll spend $2000 before 200,000 miles .

I bought a high mileage Benz and replaced the transmission from one being parted out in this forum for $500. It now had 199800 miles. So it cost me less by replacing the transmission , than if I had done 5 costly tranny fluid changes

Glyn M Ruck

You are A) Extremely lucky to have found a transmission for $500. This is a $8000+ transmission. B) The transmission you have purchased is a complete unknown. It might be fine for many years. It might fail a day after it's short warranty runs out ~ if it had a warranty.

I would rather maintain what I have in the most cost effective fashion.

jkowtko

a) the ride quality is going to suck if you leave old fluid in your tranny for a long period of time. What would you prefer if either option had the same lifetime cost -- terrible ride always and replace tranny every 15 years, or nice ride always and replace tranny every 30 years? (I should also add that my 1999 BMW 540i "sealed" transmission lasted 6 years to 90k ... $5k replacement cost ... traded that in for my new 2005 C230 )

b) DIY fluid changes can cost under $100 (mine did), if you can get the fluid at a good price. Granted, the cost of the fluid varies greatly, so if the best you can get is $25/qt then even a DIY is going to cost you $350 in fluid and parts. But if you find some around $6/qt then your parts cost will drop under $100. My guess is you'll always be somewhere in between.

So, if you are comparing apples to apples, I suggest you compare DIY fluid changes against DIY tranny swap ... $100-300/service vs $500-1500 used transmission (replacing it yourself) ... or auto shop service $300-400 vs auto shop rebuilt tranny $3000-5000. Either way it's about a 10x ratio.

Rudeney

Yep, after my initial investment in the Assenmacher fluid pump, I can now change the fluid in my 722.9 for around $100. Even counting the purchase price of the pump, my first change was still less than what the dealer or indy wanted to charge.

BTW, has anyone found a good USA source for the 236.14 fluid? I was buying Shell ATF 134 from Ryder fleet products, for about $6/qt, but they no longer carry it. It seems I can't find it for less than about $12/qt.

Stuka Bomber

I realize this thread is old but a have a pertaining question. Is there any means by which I can use vaccum or a pump to remove the old fluid from the TC?

Im not mega confident cranking the motor to pump the old fluid from the cooler and the TC and was curious if a method has been found to avoid this.

Perhaps by sending a sump hose into the filler tube, or removing a cooler line and hooking it to suction?

I used to use an old windshield washer fluid pump hooked up the the battery with alligator clips to pump the oil from my audi. It was easy, didnt require the car to be lifted on jack stands, and removed all but 1/4 of a qt.

Is there a known method like this on the 722.6 flavor trans?

Thank you gentleman!

jkowtko

For technical theory reasons I am not a fan of applying a vacuum to a system that operates on pressure. (I hold this sentiment for brakes and PS as well.)

Sucking from the fill tube will only get fluid out of the sump anyway ... the TQ doesn't drop it's fluid when the sump is empty -- otherwise all that fluid would automatically drain out when you drained and removed the pan.

If you're going to do anything with the cooler lines, the safest thing by far is to let the transmission pump do what it does best ... pump fluid. Just make sure you don't leave the pump running dry ... so as everyone points out, only 2 qts at a time.

megacrazy

I agree. It's definitely more inconvenient but it seems to be the cheapest and safest way to do it. It took me about 15 mins to do and the fluid being pumped out of it was completely clean.

As far as the posts from 2012 about getting a new transmission over doing the fluid changes

xsever

Changed the ATF and the filter yesterday on my 2003 CLK 320 with the 722.6 transmission.

The car has 71,000 km on it and this is the first time the fluid has been changed.

Look at the difference.

jkowtko

It almost makes you want to do a second flush in a week to get that last bit of crap out of the system

Rudeney

FYI, here is the official guide for a full flush:

http://benzbits.com/722_6/TransmissionFlush.pdf

Glyn M Ruck

It's also in the Wiki in 2 parts.

Rudeney

Thanks, Glyn. I always forget about the wiki - I have my SDS/WIS system setup for printing PDFs directly to my website.

bzclk320

Can you post a method on how to properly flush my 722.6 from 236.10 to filling with 236.14 (Shell ATF 134).

Rudeney

I would drop the pan and replace the filter. That will net about 4 quarts. If you really want to do a full flush, do that first, then this:

http://benzbits.com/722_6/TransmissionFlush.pdf

benznewby

Hi All, I just purchased my first M/B it is a 2000 ML320 with 157000 miles on it and I'd like to change the ATF. I'm Sooooo confused regarding all the different spec's. I need straight info. I'm not sure what type of transmission it has. So here are the dumb question's of the day.
1. how do I determine what type of transmission it has
2. what type of ATF should I use for that transmission other than M/B "shell?", please don't confuse me with too many spec's.
I'm not bad at mechanic's so that is not a problem
Thanks in advance

Rudeney

Your W163 ML320 has the 722.6 transmission. I assume you are in the USA? If so, Shell ATF-134 is going to be the least expensive and easiest to obtain fluid that is appropriate for your transmission.

benznewby

Hi Rudney,
Thank you so much for the direct answer, now to find the shell 134. Yes, I do live in The USA.

benznewby

Sorry I misspelled your online name, but you know who I'm speaking to. Thanks again

Rudeney

No worries! My name is "Rodney", but I got the nickname (pronounced "Rude-ney") from a friend many years ago, and it sort of stuck as an online name.

mguerrero

Rodney, would you use Shell ATF134 instead of the MB ATF134?

which ones are the "approved" ones by MB?

Rudeney

Shell ATF-134 is on the approved list. Unless you just want to pay more for MBZ brand fluid that's what I'd use.

mis3

I would use Shell ATF-134 for a full flush. Not sure if I want to mix MB ATF and Shell together for a pan flush. Need experts opinions here!

Rudeney

I see no problems with mixing the fluids. My thought is that "approved fluids are approved fluids".