How to replace passenger door lock actuator
#6
I got the part and will do the install this weekend. The instructions say to remove the door handle and also the window lift. Do you have to do all of that, and if so do you have the instructions for that? Is the rest of the disassembly obvious, or are there any problem or tricky areas. Thanks again.
#7
Super Member
When you are finished, please post on how hard the job was to tackle. I have a W211 that I may need to change the passenger side actuator. When it is cold out and when the door locks first activate in the morning, my passenger door lock will "dance" (move up and down rapidly) for a second or two. Sometimes it will lock and sometimes it will not. This only happens the first time in the morning, the rest of the day it works normal.
Mike T.
Mike T.
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#8
Well I did the job this past Sunday. Overall, not too bad, but certainly tedious in some areas. Be sure to disconnect the Negative Battery cable so you don't have a short and set off the airbag!! Getting the triangular speaker grille off was unclear, and I broke off some of the grips so that has to be replaced. I subsequently learned that you need to use a small flat wedge to push the plastic clip flanges on the bottom of the grille so it will come loose from the bottom. As to the top edge, I believe you have to pull the grill out and then push down on the tab that holds it in. Next, was getting the panel off the door itself. It was tightly sealed in the door channel, maybe it was glued, so you really had to do some tugging to get it off. I thought I would be able to get the door lock actuator part out through the speaker opening, and wanted to avoid removing the airbag because its in a frame that is rivetted in place. I wound up drilling out the rivets, and replaced them with sheet metal screws. I worked for probably 1 hour or more on getting the part out of the door. I finally was able to get it out through the speaker opening with a lot of force. I also tried getting it out by moving it behind the vertical window support channel but the space was limited. I finally figured out that at the base of the vertical window channel is a bolt that can be loosened by removing the rubber drain plug cover on the bottom of the door. Then just remove the nut. BE SURE to mark the location of the support before removing the support so you can put it back in the proper location. This enabled the support bracket to move some and increased the space between it and the door. Getting the part back in was also time consuming. I finally was able to get it in by angling it through the space between the upper section of the door and the window support. You have to just spend time manipulating the angle you're using to get it through a very tight space. After that, the issue was getting the door panel back on. Its a very tight fit into the channel, and basically myself and a friend had to use brute force and a rubber mallet to get it into the channel. I would hope there's an easier way to install it, but I couldn't find any instructions and nothing was obvious. My most time was spent on getting the part in and out, and replacing the door panel. Those items probably took me about 2-2 1/2 hours. So its something that's doable, but I hope I don't have to do it again. However, the part cost me $125, plus a new grille for $25, so that's $150. The dealer's charge was quoted at $650!! So if you've got the time and patience, its worth it. You don't have to be a mechanic, just persistent! Good luck.
#10
Locking door actuator
I am doing the job myself, do anyone have any other method of betting the actuator out? Ive been going at it for a little more than2 hours, plus 30-45 minutes prepping everything else...
#11
Well I did the job this past Sunday. Overall, not too bad, but certainly tedious in some areas. Be sure to disconnect the Negative Battery cable so you don't have a short and set off the airbag!! Getting the triangular speaker grille off was unclear, and I broke off some of the grips so that has to be replaced. I subsequently learned that you need to use a small flat wedge to push the plastic clip flanges on the bottom of the grille so it will come loose from the bottom. As to the top edge, I believe you have to pull the grill out and then push down on the tab that holds it in. Next, was getting the panel off the door itself. It was tightly sealed in the door channel, maybe it was glued, so you really had to do some tugging to get it off. I thought I would be able to get the door lock actuator part out through the speaker opening, and wanted to avoid removing the airbag because its in a frame that is rivetted in place. I wound up drilling out the rivets, and replaced them with sheet metal screws. I worked for probably 1 hour or more on getting the part out of the door. I finally was able to get it out through the speaker opening with a lot of force. I also tried getting it out by moving it behind the vertical window support channel but the space was limited. I finally figured out that at the base of the vertical window channel is a bolt that can be loosened by removing the rubber drain plug cover on the bottom of the door. Then just remove the nut. BE SURE to mark the location of the support before removing the support so you can put it back in the proper location. This enabled the support bracket to move some and increased the space between it and the door. Getting the part back in was also time consuming. I finally was able to get it in by angling it through the space between the upper section of the door and the window support. You have to just spend time manipulating the angle you're using to get it through a very tight space. After that, the issue was getting the door panel back on. Its a very tight fit into the channel, and basically myself and a friend had to use brute force and a rubber mallet to get it into the channel. I would hope there's an easier way to install it, but I couldn't find any instructions and nothing was obvious. My most time was spent on getting the part in and out, and replacing the door panel. Those items probably took me about 2-2 1/2 hours. So its something that's doable, but I hope I don't have to do it again. However, the part cost me $125, plus a new grille for $25, so that's $150. The dealer's charge was quoted at $650!! So if you've got the time and patience, its worth it. You don't have to be a mechanic, just persistent! Good luck.
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
Posts: 41
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2015 E550 Cabrio, 2007 CLK550 (SOLD)
This message of mine was copied from a thread about the w209 door handle, felt it was more appropriate here.
I'm working on a salvage project CLK550, it basically all done except for the new passenger door I bought doe's not have the keyless-go option and the car does. Based on this very helpful thread and some intuition, I'm assuming I need to switch the actuator out of the door with Keyless-Go and put it into the door without Keyless-Go to get the Keyless door handle to function? Is this correct and entirely correct? Or is there more to it? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I'm working on a salvage project CLK550, it basically all done except for the new passenger door I bought doe's not have the keyless-go option and the car does. Based on this very helpful thread and some intuition, I'm assuming I need to switch the actuator out of the door with Keyless-Go and put it into the door without Keyless-Go to get the Keyless door handle to function? Is this correct and entirely correct? Or is there more to it? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.