Bartjeman

Thanks for this link, it is very helpful. I have a 2003 CLK 500 with a Bose stereo system and I'm trying to figure out how I will need to wire my aftermarket Amp. I am also replacing my head unit and will run RCA cabling to the rear amp location.


So I need to figure out what speakers I have. I believe I have:


Left door front
Right door front
Left front door mirror triangle
Right front door mirror triangle
Center cockpit
Subwoofer? (I don't see it, so maybe not?)
Left door rear
Left rear surround
Right door rear
Right rear surround


Is this correct? So now I need to figure out how to wire all these speakers from the new amp. Unless I can find an amp with all these outputs (I think that would be difficult) do I just combine the speakers into four groups?


Any insight would be appreciated!

tw2

You should have a sub in the parcel tray. Left side probably. Just make sure you get an amp which is 2ohm stable as the stock speakers you have are not the standard 4ohms. I am not 100% as I don't have bose but you should have

-door left and right- the tweeters up the top are probably wired to these so there shouldn't be any extra wires for them.
-rear left and right
-subwoofer
-the centre grill on the dash should have a speaker which I don't have

If you can find a 5 channel amp this would be the best. One for the sub and 4 for the rest. Or you can have a 4 channel amp with one for front left, front right, rear left and rear right. Then bridge the sub over the rear channels. Just make sure it is stable down to 1ohm for this. You won't be able to change the gain of the sub relative to the rear speakers but it is a bit simpler and there will be hundreds more amps to choose from. The centre speaker can be bridged over the fronts or just leave it out. I am not sure it is adding much.

If you find the resistance of the stock wiring you can normally work out what components they wired together.

Bartjeman

Looking more closely at the schematic the door tweeters are wired into the front door speakers, and looking closer at the parcel tray I do see the subwoofer is packaged with the left rear surround speaker facing down. So it appears I have a total of 10 speakers, 8 of which are connected directly to the amp. So I think a minimum of a 5 channel 2ohm stable amp would be my best bet.

Center cockpit - omit

Left door front, Left front door mirror triangle, Left door rear - Channel 1

Right door front, Right front door mirror triangle, Right door rear - Channel 2

Subwoofer - Channel 3

Left rear surround - Channel 4

Right rear surround - Channel 5

If I find a 7 channel I could separate out the rear door speakers as well...

Bartjeman

I purchased a 5 Channel amp (Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano 640 W 5-Channel Class D digital Car Audio Amplifier) with RMS Power Rating of 2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan. + 350 watts.

In order to keep all speakers working at the same levels, I will just wire in 7 of my ten existing speakers omitting the Center dash , left rear door, and right rear door speakers. The door fronts and mirror triangles are split out by a crossover that it appears are installed in the doors (labeled as X35/1 and X35/2 on the wiring diagram), so there is one pair of wires to connect to the amp for each set.

So the revised plan is:

Left door (triangle and door front) - Channel 1

Right door (triangle and door front) - Channel 2

Left rear surround - Channel 3

Right rear surround - Channel 4

Subwoofer - Channel 5

Please let me know if you think my plan should be modified for a better result.

Rudeney

Personally, I'd leave the front sail panel tweeters tied to the front door speakers and let them share the amp channel with the front door speakers. I'd then power the rear door speakers.

Bartjeman

That is exactly what I'm doing (Channel 1 - left front sail panel tweeters tied to the left front door speaker, Channel 2 - right front sail panel tweeters tied to the right front door speaker)- but I don't have a channel left for the rear door speakers.

Rudeney

Oh, I'm a dumb butt! you have a coupe so you have the extra speakers on the hat shelf. Yes, your wiring proposal sounds like the way to go.

Bartjeman

W209 center stack

Things are going well so far, and I'm tapping in to get 12V accessory power. While I'm here it would be great to know which wire to tap into for reverse since I will be installing a reverse view camera as well.

I'm a little concerned that there is an extra connector in the Metra harness. It looks just like the connector for the steering wheel controls. Does anyone know what this is for?


Extra connector?

Thanks for all the help and great info I've found on this site!

Bartjeman

Okay, sorry if I'm a little dense, but I may have finally figured out the connection issue. At first I thought the wiring adapter included the Steering Wheel Contol adapter, even though it didn't say that it did. I can post a pic if anyone needs it, but The ASWC-1 looks identical to the XSVI-1785-NAV. So instead of having two ASWC-1 units, one is actually the XSVI-1785-NAV units that plugs into the other connector.

DavidM:

Guys please help! My post is under w220 sedans! Im fraking out!

tw2

Glad you have it sorted. Yes the stock steering wheel controls in the CANBUS go directly to the 3.5mm connector in the back of the head unit. No idea about navigation or reverse wiring sorry.
No one is going to search through the S-class forum to try and find your post. If it is relevant to this topic you can ask here or at least provide a link to your thread.

Rudeney

There is no "reverse" lead in the vehicle wiring harness. Instead, it's communicated over the CAN bus. You can tap into the LED indicator light on the shifter. I don't know which wire it is, but you might figure it out with a voltmeter. Here are some photos of the indicator ligts that might help:

Bartjeman

The head unit and amp are installed and working! I haven't completed wiring in the reverse view camera but the XSVI-1785-NAV interfaces with the CAN bus, and has an output that is supposed to be reverse, so I'm hoping that will work as advertised.

I'm very happy with the sound and added functionality of the new system, just need to finish with properly routing the wires.

tw2

Congratulations. Please post up any further hints or photos to help others if you are able. My info only gets you so far if you have bose or want navigation.

Bartjeman

My stereo is installed and working, but it doesn't seem to be interfacing with the CAN bus as advertised. I purchased the Metra XSVI-1785-NAV wiring harness which includes a module that is supposed to interface with the CAN bus for features such as retained accessory power, and outputs for parking brake, reverse, etc.


Has anyone installed this and successfully obtained these features? The documentation doesn't have too many details. Here's a link to the product and the documentation:
http://metraonline.com/part/XSVI-1785-NAV
http://metraonline.com/files/product...85-NAV_web.pdf
I will try to reset the XSVI device to see if reinitializing will help, but any input is appreciated.


Edit:
I've spent quite a bit of time searching and found great information on several threads, but not the specific information I'm looking for now. The Axxess CAN bus interface needs to be properly initialized and it states on the instructions to "Cycle the key, by turning the ignition on for 30 seconds". I think this how the interface programs itself to communicate with the CAN bus, and it needs to be done properly. By searching the Internet in general I found posts regarding other cars (like Volkswagen) that have CAN bus and an Axxess CAN bus interface. It appears that during the initialization the wiring harness should be connected to the vehicle, but it should not be connected to the head unit. So I'm going to try this, and see if this will do the trick.

Rudeney

I bought something like this (maybe the exact same thing?) for my C240 and never got it to work either. I only paid $35 for it on eBay, so I figured I got what I paid for. The first thing I noticed is that it didn't have the CAN bus wires on the correct pins where it mates to the vehicle harness.

CAN is C1 and C2 on the harness:

http://benzbits.com/Audio.pdf

Bartjeman

Installed amp
I was able to install my amp in the same location the stock amp was located. Just about everything is working great, but I still haven't been able to successfully connect to the CAN bus.

Irwan Suharto

this is how my current head unit looks like


Hey guys this is my 1st post as a member. been reading mbworld for some time now as i am doing some mods to my 2002 w209 CLK 200K.


I am changing my stock head unit (non-bose) to a Pioneer AVH-x7750BT. a friend told me that my sub wouldnt work once i change my head unit and tht i need an amp to make it work.


is this correct?

tw2

If you don't have BOSE then it will likely run the sub bridged on the rear speaker channels from the factory. This is how mine works with only the head unit (no amp). Sounds pretty good for what it is.

Irwan Suharto

Sweet. means i dont have to get an amp. thnx heaps!

Irwan Suharto

Hey guys. I recently swapped out my audio 10 for a pioneer head unit. D woofer seems to have lost its oumpf. I can bareley hear it now. Most of d bass is cming frm the door speakers. Would adding a amplifier help? Or would d stock sub b able to take the power frm the agter market amplifier?

tw2

I used an aftermarket amp for my stock sub in the C32. Worked well, it was a 40rms x2 cheap fusion one. It will need two channels as the sub is dual voice coil.

Not sure why my stock sub sounds great with no amp in the CLK.

Irwan Suharto

Yes i was happy with d stock sound system of d clk. Did u chng your headunit in d clk too?

tw2

Yes this thread was originally made by me to ask some questions and document my head unit install in my CLK.

benzo5474

hey guys, i have a little problem installing my aftermarket jvc stereo. i bought all the wiring harness and online as well as the antenna adapter. my problem is when i plug them in, im bot getting power. Im pretty sure my connections are correct as far as the main wirings are concerned, i matched them with my stereo harness by colors. red (power) black (ground) blue and yellow. what am i missing and not getting power?