tw2

I want to upgrade my stereo since I like USB and SD which usually limits me to pioneer head units (or really **** ones). I have done this before to my old C32, the link is in my signature. I plan on doing pretty much the exact same thing. From what I can tell my CLK is not bose, there are two speakers in each door, the stock tweeters, no centre dash speaker that I can see (I should see it looking through the grill?) and there is a sub in the rear tray (parcel tray) that has the same wiring as the w203 had. I am 98% sure it will be running off the stock head unit in the same way ie no amp.

My question is, can I order any dash kit for the w203 c-class and it will fit the w209 since they look identical? I will try and find the same kit again if it is as it was so complete.

Otherwise I will use a metra steering wheel adapter again as this worked perfectly and was so simple to set up.

Does the fibre optic only go to the cd stacker in the glove box and the telephone?

I am hoping not to have to install an aftermarket amp again for the sub but I will have to see how it runs on a normal head unit first. The beauty is that you can do the entire radio install without needing to go back in to change the sub wiring. I can do another writeup afterwards if anyone is interested.

Rudeney

All CLKs have the upgraded audio systems (Bose through MY2004, HK for MY2005+) that were optional on the W203. They use the fiber optic ring to send digital audio to the trunk-mounted amp, and then it outputs speaker-level analog audio. To install an aftermarket head unit, you won't necessarily need a separate amp, but you will have to run analog wiring from the dash to the trunk, then pickup speaker level outputs at the Bose amp.

As for the faceplate, the W203 version won't fit. The W209's opening is slightly narrower. I think some people have modified the W203 faceplates, but it's better to just get the right one for your car.

tw2

From what I can tell mine is not Bose, it is a New Zealand new car, not imported which seems to mean any options can be present in my experience. The sub in the rear deck has the cone facing downwards. No center speaker in dash. No Bose written anywhere. You can see the sub is 4 ohms which Bose is 2 ohms.







I have no idea where the amp would be but possibly you see it missing in these photos?


Left side of trunk where fuse box is.


Right side of trunk.


Thanks for the help with the dash kit. Some ebay sellers have it listed for the CLK and C class and there were conflicting answers on the forum.

tw2

I have another dumb question, all the kits I have found for the clk are also for the c-class. I cannot find one anywhere that seems to be only for the clk. I have found others on the forum advising the same thing as you but they are in threads discussing the post facelift w209. Does what you say apply to the 2003-2004 models also or is it just for the later models?

I think I need harness metra 70-1784 but this is starting to feel like a lot of guess work. I will pull the stock headunit out tomorrow to find the answer for sure.

tw2

Couldn't help myself so I pulled the stock unit out. The w209 dash is 3000x easier than the w203 to pull apart. Took 5 mins to get the stock radio out.




Main loom with the power, ground etc.



Canbus I think and some other stuff.



This one I know, all 8 speaker wires. There are two sets that are 4 ohms, the outer two sets include the rear woofer as well as a set of speakers and are 5ohms.



Yay... the annoying part


The plugs look exactly the same as my C32 but some of the colors are slightly different on the power, ground etc plug. I should be able to work out the appropriate harness now.

Rudeney

OK, I didn't catch that you weren't in the USA. Other markets did not have Bose standard, and based on that wiring, you don't have it nor do you have an external amp so that simplifies things. As for facelift vs. not, I still don't think the W203 is a perfect fit. Maybe others who have done this can chime in. Without Bose, the D2B fiber is only used for the CD changer and phone/telematics. With an aftermarket head unit, it is not needed.

Kevwood

For the dash kit;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3504984640...d=489116455822

It is CLK specific, no shaving/mods needed. I used it and the fit is perfect;



I also bought my wire harness & antenna adapter from the same vendor.

omega48er

^i haz that one =] kev when you get a second, i just made a new thread that requires your and rudeneys input

tw2

Unfortunately that is for the facelift model. I will get one for the pre-facelift w203 and hope for the best I think.

Kevwood

Sorry, been away from the forum for long enough to not pay attention to the MY... My bad.

tw2

No problem, everything I can find on the forum is for the post facelift so I think I will just go for it and see what happens. Your interior is looking very smart!

Kevwood

I'd still check with that vendor for your MY, the products they sell really are top notch. Thanks, ive done a few things here and there on the inside but major changes are coming.

Blazedale

I want to upgrade my stock CLK-320 (W209) stereo since I like USB also. Mine has suddenly started sounding weird, like a muffled sound comes out of the speakers, and I've narrowed it down to the whole head unit needs to be replaced. Does anyone know what kinds of head units fit, are suitable, and sound good? I could use info on vendors, part numbers, etc... anything to make this easy. Appreciate it!

Adrian
blazedale@gmail.com

Rudeney

Your MY2005 has the interior facelift, so for fit, all you need is the proper dash adapter (see post #7 from Kev above ^^^).

Once you have that, you just need to decide what you want. You can use pretty much any double-DIN sized unit, so just find one in your price range that does what you want. If you are going with a touch-screen, my advice is to shop locally to find a live one on display to make sure it operates smoothly and does what you want. Most of the touch screens don't work like modern phones and tablets with "capacitive" touch. Instead, they sense pressure and can be a little slow to react. Also, the interfaces can be a bit counter-intuitive in some cases.

As for sound, that's going to be a personal choice. I'm not a big audiophile, so to me, I am usually good with any popular brand (Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, etc.) Of course you can start with just the head unit, then upgrade the speakers, ad amps, subwoofers, etc. It's really a matter of budget at that point.

I was able to purchase a refurbished Pioneer Avic unit for the kid's C240. It has it all - NAV, SD-card, USB (including iPod support), Bluetooth, Sirius, etc. OI paid about $400 for the HU, then another $150 for the Sirius adapter. I replaced the rotten stock door speakers with mid-range Pioneer speakers (not that I am brand loyal, but I found a good price on them with good reviews). These are drive by the HU, then I put a 12" subwoofer in the trunk in an enclosure, powered by a 1,200w Pyramid amp. It sounds really good, and is not too bad to operate. I think the total investment was under $1,400.

tw2

Minor excitement. I have been using the 350z exclusively. Its now sold so CLK mod time! I got last years pioneer DEH-8450BT model really cheap. Apparently the only 2012-2013 change was the iphone software which I will never use. Now for my metra fascia kit, radio adapter, wiring harness and Metra Axxess ASWC to arrive from amazon- due in 2-3 days.

I will start with installing everything with RCA's going into the trunk. Assuming the bass is totally 100% crap I will cut the sub wires (to remove them from the rear speaker loop) and eventually get a 2 channel amp to run it just like I did with my old C32. I can do a writeup if anyone wants one but it should be almost identical to the link in my sig. It sounded pretty good for stock speakers/sub so I'm hoping it works out the same.

tw2

Install complete if anyone is interested. This is a 2003 non-bose system. It is the pre-facelift model so anyone with a 2005+ this stuff does not apply. There is not a lot of info on the earlier models so here goes.



The 2001-2004 C-class trim definitely is the correct one as you can see from the photos. This is the exact same one I ordered for my 2002 C32. I used the metra one because it has a nice large pocket and a nice design. The pocket can easily be removed to get in behind.

You need the part "Metra 40-VW12 VW Antenna Adapter" for the radio adapter. You need "Metra 70-9401 Radio Wiring Harness for M B /L R /Sprinter 94-Up" for the wiring loom. I used the Axxess Metra ASWC-1 for the steering wheel controls again. I programmed it for vol up/down as the usual buttons and track up and down as the telephone answer hang up on the right side of the steering wheel. Everything else is the same as the C32 write up in my signature.

ahmedhossame

Can you send me more details how to do re-wire the amp as I'm planning to install an aftermarket double Din unit?

Rudeney

The Bose amp will be in the trunk, on the right side, behind the wheel. It will look like a box with cooling fins and the connector (with wires and fiber) will be on the bottom. Here's the wiring diagram:

http://benzbits.com/w209/SoundAmplifierWiring.pdf

ahmedhossame

Rodney, Would it be better to replace the AMP or bypass it. My unit is Kenwood DDX8901 Double Din. It shows audio output of 2-4 ohms. I'm not familiar with audio systems and planning DIY this project.

Rudeney

Int he case of the Bose (or newer Harmon-Kardon) amp, you really have no choice to replace it, or at least bypass it. The inputs to those amps are fiber optic, which no aftermarket system will connect to. You could find a special analog-to-fiber adapter, but by the tim you pay for that, you could install your own very nice aftermarket amp.

ahmedhossame

I'm leaning towards replacing the amp with an aftermarket. In this case do I need to re-wire all the wires to the speakers?
The re-wiring seems scary. I don't want to take the whole interior apart. I have done similar work on BMW and Corolla and know its not fun.

megacrazy

No. The fiber optic cable is only from the amp to the head unit. You can replace the amp and tap all speaker cables on the amp harness in the trunk. You don't need to run new wires to all the speakers unless you feel you have nothing better to do.

ahmedhossame

Then that makes the job easier and all I have to do is to run new amplifier wire from the new head unit to the new amp?

megacrazy

That's correct. So in essence you tap the speaker wires at the amp harness in the trunk, then you run cables from the amp to the head unit....That's it.

ahmedhossame

Can I use the Bose Amplifier power cables or I'll have to run new power cables from the battery?