sleepyheadzzz

I'm at 30,000 miles now and my front pads are worn... A suspension shop told me I needed the rotors and sensors changed out.

My question is has anybody just changed the pads without the rotors?? And also do the sensors need to be changed too? I feel like this guy is trying to rip me off .

Flame3g

I think the rotors can't be resurfaced because they are soft. I would change the sensor out, they are cheap. Why don't you just get the parts and changed them yourself very easy job.

bheng

i didnt change my rotors until 50k. I think there is a specified minimum that is dubbed safe by mercedes. but if i recall correctly, my SA told me that mercedes recommends a rotor change with every pad. If you can, try to get a caliper to measure the thickness of the rotor, i'll try to find that paperwork to see what the minimums were

but flame3g is corrent, we cannot resurface our rotors

mis3

I was told, as well, that MB recommends rotors change at every pad change.

For my previous cars, they usually changed my rotors at every 2nd pad change. They would have to send the rotors out to a machine shop to re-surface. I am not sure my local MB dealerships have the facility to re-surface the rotors, maybe this is why they always change the rotors at well.

MB rotors for my CLK320 are $130CAN (each) for front and $67CAN (each) for back. Rotors are your CLK550 are probably more expensive.

Fatz

The actual wear of the rotor is (IMHO) going to depend on "how you drive". Hence the best approach is to take, or have taken, the measurements of the rotors and compare that to the spec range. If there is warping, you should just replace them.

I had my OEM pads changed to EBC yellow at 47K miles; resurfaced the front rotors; replaced the rear rotors (warped).

BTW - warped rotors can be caused by over tightened wheel bolts and nuts. SIL just had all four rotors changed on a Honda minivan (25K miles) due to the dealership using the wrong torque end on their air wrench. I always check and adjust mine as necessary.

Rudeney

I only change rotors when needed, based on measuring the thickness. If you do put new pads on used rotors, it is important to prep the rotor surface. If the rotors can be turned, that will work, but it's not necessary. You can "knock-down" the rotors by sanding them with high-grit paper to remove the shine. You aren't worried about trying to flatten any gentle waves, just get rid of the shine and give the pads a rough surface to bed into. I did this on my last pad change to the Porterfields and all is well.

MarcusF

Here is the MB spec for both rotors and pads. I measure my rotors with a micrometer whenever I change pads. My rotors are usually at the service limit after two sets of pads - every other brake job. They have never been at the service limit after a single set.

mis3

How much is it to turn a rotor? I do not even know where to go in Toronto to turn the rotors.

Rudeney: Sanding old rotor down with high-grit sandpapers work is a great idea. By high-grit, do you mean 220? Sand by hand?

Desides saving in money ($445CAN in my case, including tax), it is also a waste of resources to throw away good rotors. Last time at my brake change, although my indie did not measure the thickness of the old rotors, they looked perfectly OK to me.

Rudeney

Turing rotors used to be a few bucks each, but I think the last time I checked, it was $12, and they would not touch them unless they were 10% thicker than spec. High grit sandpaper meaning "rough" - I generally use 80 grit rated for wet sanding (though I don't wet sand them) on my random orbit pneumatic sander.

omega48er

completely agree with you, i hate unnecessary wasting of anything.

on a second note, try R1 rotors, there is a rep here... kevin Kevin@r1concepts.com while you are ordering your rotors get new SS lines and get it done with

for pads head over to ForMyMercedes.com the guys name is Jerry and get Porterfiend pads... THEY ARE AWESOME a little expensive but if you can afford them no need to skimp out on the most important factor of the car.
Jerry <ger.jones@comcast.net>

if i recall corectly, i spent about 650 on all 4 pads rotors and installation. installed by street mechanic =] love NY.. but they are not hard to do if you do decide on a DIY

sleepyheadzzz

so I Got my rotors resurfaced and new pads installed (I already bought the pads) for 80 bux!!!! can't believe what a good price I got for the labor for resurfacing and installing the pads!

and they work great. I was driving around slamming on the brakes making sure they work fine...and they are money...also as my brake pad sensors never lit up...I didn't change the brake sensors....this is at 30,000 miles...first brake pad change and first rotor resurfacing..and I put the stock springs back on...so I got a pair of HR springs for sale if anybody interested.

Airmousam

How difficult is it to change pads on a 550? These look different than brakes im used to. For fronts it looks like you remove 8 bolts. Im used to 2. Im a little scared

Rudeney

DO NOT remove those 8 bolts! If you do, you will be buying a new caliper! The front brakes are a fixed-caliper system so the pads slid out the opening on the back. There are two pins holding a spring-steel metal clip that keep the pads in place. You drive out those two pins and then the pads slide out. If you need to replace the rotors, then there are two bolts on the inside of the calipers holding them to the hub (as with most all disc brake systems).

clydem

I'm old skool. Only replace the rotors when needed. Get them turned if wavy or there are grooves. Minor lines and the new pads will form to them.


There's a couple good articles about bedding in new pads. In a nutshell, *safely* breaking hard from 80mph a couple of times.



My wife is a heavy breaker. I've replaced the front pads twice already. Same set of rotors. I bought new sensors cheap from Napa.

FFXF1

Just did a total brake system overhaul this weekend. Pads needed replacing so I went with Porterfield R4Ss. Replaced the brake lines with Goodridge Phantoms. Was told rotors weren't far behind so I went with OE rotors all around. I figure if they still have some life in them I've got them in the bag just in case. If I never need them no problem.

tantinjan

ALL manufactures got a min rotor size,some times it is printed on the rotor . You check the rotor with a vernier for thickness .
If it got a ridge on the top side it mean it got worn down ,time to measure and get it skim if needed.Pads got normal replace in work shops when the pad face is less than the steel backing.
I run groove Brembo rotors and ceramic Akebono rotors. No dust on wheels and no squeal because of the groove rotors.
Remember dont take short cuts with your brakes.