In dash navi for 04 clk 320
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04 clk320
In dash navi for 04 clk 320
I've looked and looked everywhere for a simple guide on how to install an in dash navi in my 04 CLK320. I've seen so many threads but I'm very confused. I would appreciate it if anyone could guide me to a thread specially for my car or any other car that would be similar to mine. I think the car has fiver optics. I'm not sure on how I would know this. But I'm assuming it does. It has a cd changer in the glove box. If there are any other questions I need to answer please let me know.
I know it seems I'm being lazy, maybe I'm being just a little bit lazy. Honestly I have tried to look but I get very confused.
I know it seems I'm being lazy, maybe I'm being just a little bit lazy. Honestly I have tried to look but I get very confused.
#2
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Your car will have the D2B fiber loop. It allows the head unit to communicate and carries audio for the CD changer, TeleAid and OEM cell phone system. If you have the Bose option, then it also carries audio to the amp in the trunk.
Honestly, i would not go to the trouble and cost to install the COMAND system in this car. Unless you are getting one for free, it's just very outdated and not worth the price when you can get a really nice aftermarket system with modern features like iPod, Bluetooth, etc. I know it won't look "factory", but honestly, I think the pre-facelift COMAND systems look pretty dated.
Honestly, i would not go to the trouble and cost to install the COMAND system in this car. Unless you are getting one for free, it's just very outdated and not worth the price when you can get a really nice aftermarket system with modern features like iPod, Bluetooth, etc. I know it won't look "factory", but honestly, I think the pre-facelift COMAND systems look pretty dated.
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I never had any plans to add an updated command. I bought an aftermarket unit which I plan on installing.
I opened up my dash and noticed the fiber optic cable that runs pretty much everything.
So if I'm correct the only method is to buy an amplifier and run wiring from the new head unit and take the original wiring from the speakers that are connected to the Bose amplifier and connect them to the new amp.
Anything I'm missing?
I opened up my dash and noticed the fiber optic cable that runs pretty much everything.
So if I'm correct the only method is to buy an amplifier and run wiring from the new head unit and take the original wiring from the speakers that are connected to the Bose amplifier and connect them to the new amp.
Anything I'm missing?
#4
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Oh, I see. All W209's will have fiber - like I said, it's used for communicating with the CD changer, TeleAid and OEM phone interface. However, ONLY if you have the Bose option does it mean it uses the fiber in place of copper wire for the speakers.
If you DON'T have Bose, then the wiring harness on the back of your factory radio will have the necessary speaker wiring and all you need is an adapter harness to tap into that (using your aftermarket radio's built-in amp). If you DO have Bose, then you will NOT have analog speaker wiring in that harness. This means that you have to pickup the analog speaker wiring int he trunk "downstream" from the Bose amp. And it also means you have to run your own 4-channel analog wiring from the dash to the trunk to tie in there.
Now, that can be high-level wiring, using the new radio's built-in amp, or, for better results, buy an aftermarket amp, run low-level wiring to the trunk to the new amp and tie the new amp into the speaker wiring in place of the Bose amp.
If you DON'T have Bose, then the wiring harness on the back of your factory radio will have the necessary speaker wiring and all you need is an adapter harness to tap into that (using your aftermarket radio's built-in amp). If you DO have Bose, then you will NOT have analog speaker wiring in that harness. This means that you have to pickup the analog speaker wiring int he trunk "downstream" from the Bose amp. And it also means you have to run your own 4-channel analog wiring from the dash to the trunk to tie in there.
Now, that can be high-level wiring, using the new radio's built-in amp, or, for better results, buy an aftermarket amp, run low-level wiring to the trunk to the new amp and tie the new amp into the speaker wiring in place of the Bose amp.
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Oh, I see. All W209's will have fiber - like I said, it's used for communicating with the CD changer, TeleAid and OEM phone interface. However, ONLY if you have the Bose option does it mean it uses the fiber in place of copper wire for the speakers.
If you DON'T have Bose, then the wiring harness on the back of your factory radio will have the necessary speaker wiring and all you need is an adapter harness to tap into that (using your aftermarket radio's built-in amp). If you DO have Bose, then you will NOT have analog speaker wiring in that harness. This means that you have to pickup the analog speaker wiring int he trunk "downstream" from the Bose amp. And it also means you have to run your own 4-channel analog wiring from the dash to the trunk to tie in there.
Now, that can be high-level wiring, using the new radio's built-in amp, or, for better results, buy an aftermarket amp, run low-level wiring to the trunk to the new amp and tie the new amp into the speaker wiring in place of the Bose amp.
If you DON'T have Bose, then the wiring harness on the back of your factory radio will have the necessary speaker wiring and all you need is an adapter harness to tap into that (using your aftermarket radio's built-in amp). If you DO have Bose, then you will NOT have analog speaker wiring in that harness. This means that you have to pickup the analog speaker wiring int he trunk "downstream" from the Bose amp. And it also means you have to run your own 4-channel analog wiring from the dash to the trunk to tie in there.
Now, that can be high-level wiring, using the new radio's built-in amp, or, for better results, buy an aftermarket amp, run low-level wiring to the trunk to the new amp and tie the new amp into the speaker wiring in place of the Bose amp.
2. Know of any diagram that would be able to tell me what wire needs to be spliced where? Or any other person who has done this and documented well enough to understand? This would be in the case I decide to continue using the original Bose amp. (The reason I'm not trying to invest in a new amp is simply because I don't listen to music)
#6
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I installed a Pioneer AVIC in the C240. I bought a kit on eBay that included the wiring harness and the double-DIN faceplate adapter. The same kit should work on your CLK (for anyone else doing this, the W203 kit only works on pre-facelift models).
The C240 did not have Bose, so the speaker wiring was in the harness and that made it pretty much plug and play. Since you have Bose, there is no speaker wiring there - you will have to run your own. On top of that, the car does not have illumination or 12v switched power in the wiring harness - the only leads you'll use are constant +12v, ground and the power antenna lead. You can pick up illumination and switched +12v from the center console/ashtray. Because of this, the wiring harness adapter may not be of much use - you might just want to tap into the wires. Here's a wiring diagram:
http://benzbits.com/Audio10Pinouts.pdf
Using the Bose amp becomes complicated. You would need an adapter that converts your radio's analog audio outputs to the D2B fiber. I believe they exist, but are very expensive and hard to find. The least expensive solution is to run your own analog wiring to the trunk. Your new radio should have a built-in amp, so just run it's outputs directly to the speakers - no additional amp needed. You'll just have to disconnect the analog speaker wiring from the Bose amp and tap your new wire in there. Oh, and there are channels under the door sills with plenty of room for running wiring from the dash to the trunk.
The C240 did not have Bose, so the speaker wiring was in the harness and that made it pretty much plug and play. Since you have Bose, there is no speaker wiring there - you will have to run your own. On top of that, the car does not have illumination or 12v switched power in the wiring harness - the only leads you'll use are constant +12v, ground and the power antenna lead. You can pick up illumination and switched +12v from the center console/ashtray. Because of this, the wiring harness adapter may not be of much use - you might just want to tap into the wires. Here's a wiring diagram:
http://benzbits.com/Audio10Pinouts.pdf
Using the Bose amp becomes complicated. You would need an adapter that converts your radio's analog audio outputs to the D2B fiber. I believe they exist, but are very expensive and hard to find. The least expensive solution is to run your own analog wiring to the trunk. Your new radio should have a built-in amp, so just run it's outputs directly to the speakers - no additional amp needed. You'll just have to disconnect the analog speaker wiring from the Bose amp and tap your new wire in there. Oh, and there are channels under the door sills with plenty of room for running wiring from the dash to the trunk.
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#8
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The pinouts are the same. And like I said, even though that diagram lists pins for accessory switched 12v and illumination, the wires will not be there on your car.
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04 clk320
Where exactly is this? Is there a diagram or something that tells me what wires needs to be spliced into?
#10
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It's located in the trunk, on the right side, behind the wheel well (you'll have to remove the carpeted paneling). I believe the wire colors will be the same as the pinout chart I posted aboce.
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I have had everything connected for about a week. But I keep having a problem that I can't seem to solve.
After installing it the device turns on sometimes and works and sometimes when I turn my car on the HU doesn't turn on.
I thought maybe the HU is messed up. So I had it replaced with a new one. And I am still having the same problem.
Also, the radio reception is horrible but from what I read I am suppose to take the A5 wire from the original wiring harness and connect it to the 12v (cigarette lighter). Is this correct?
After installing it the device turns on sometimes and works and sometimes when I turn my car on the HU doesn't turn on.
I thought maybe the HU is messed up. So I had it replaced with a new one. And I am still having the same problem.
Also, the radio reception is horrible but from what I read I am suppose to take the A5 wire from the original wiring harness and connect it to the 12v (cigarette lighter). Is this correct?
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#14
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My guess would be that you have a bad connection to the lighter. And yes, you need to connect the antenna control wire (A5) to +12v to power the amp. Some people connect it to the new radio's auto antenna control output.
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I checked that and made a new connection. Still nada. I don't understand what's wrong. I know the lighter works because when I connect my charger to it, it works. Lately the HU won't even turn on.
If I want to click the reset button the HU do I turn the car on then press it?
If I want to click the reset button the HU do I turn the car on then press it?
#16
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Aftermarket head units are pretty simple - they use 12v constant to retain the clock (and sometimes station memories and sound settings), and then a switched 12v signal to turn them off and on with the ignition switch. I assume you connected the constant 12v input to A4 (usually yellow on aftermarket systems), then the switched input (usually red) to the lighter. If it doesn't come on with the ignition, then your radio isn't getting 12v to it's switched input line.
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The following pictures show how I have connected the the 12v wire from the HU to the cigarette lighter. Because the red wire from the HU was not long I extended it with another wire (green/yellow).
It looks like it is connected properly. What do you think?
It looks like it is connected properly. What do you think?
#18
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I'm not crazy about those connections. How did you splice the wire? I prefer to use crimp connectors fro splices, and "vampire" taps to get into existing wiring. My guess is you have a loose connection in that.
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I am trying to find a wiring diagram for the cars tail lights. I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Anyways, picture number 1 is the wiring harness that is connected to my right side tail light. I am installing a backup camera and I am trying to figure out which wire leads to the reverse lights. Anyone know?
Picture number 2 is the wiring harness for my new radio. I am not sure exactly where these three wires connect to.
Light Green: Parking brake; used to detect the ON/OFF status of the parking brake. (Where exactly is this wire?)
Orange/White: Connect to lighting switch terminal (Where exactly is this wire?)
Violet/White: Reverse Gear Signal Input; Of the two lead wires connected to the back lamp, connect the one in which the voltage charges when the gear shift is in the REVERSE (R) position. (Where exactly is this wire?)
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Anyways, picture number 1 is the wiring harness that is connected to my right side tail light. I am installing a backup camera and I am trying to figure out which wire leads to the reverse lights. Anyone know?
Picture number 2 is the wiring harness for my new radio. I am not sure exactly where these three wires connect to.
Light Green: Parking brake; used to detect the ON/OFF status of the parking brake. (Where exactly is this wire?)
Orange/White: Connect to lighting switch terminal (Where exactly is this wire?)
Violet/White: Reverse Gear Signal Input; Of the two lead wires connected to the back lamp, connect the one in which the voltage charges when the gear shift is in the REVERSE (R) position. (Where exactly is this wire?)
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by Wfaizan; 08-28-2014 at 07:52 AM.
#21
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Be careful tapping in that way - the rear SAM senses bulb quality by voltage and resistance. My advice is to tap into the shift lever indicator for the reverse gear signal, then wire the camera into an unused fuse on the rear SAM.
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I really don't understand why the radio won't turn on. I bought another unit a pioneer this time. Same thing it won't turn on. The wiring is hooked up correctly. Power is coming through the wires and everything.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
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I figured it out. The constant wire was not receiving power. I checked the fuse and it wasn't blown out. I decided to use another source for the constant power and it turned on.
Can't seem to get the backup camera to turn though.
I connected both the wire from the camera and the reverse gear signal input from the HU into the wire that is connected to the gear shifter. But when i go into reverse the camera doesn't turn on. Also, when i manually turn the camera on I don't see anything.
Anyone know that problem could be?
Can't seem to get the backup camera to turn though.
I connected both the wire from the camera and the reverse gear signal input from the HU into the wire that is connected to the gear shifter. But when i go into reverse the camera doesn't turn on. Also, when i manually turn the camera on I don't see anything.
Anyone know that problem could be?