Trailing white smoke, lost power steering.... yay?
#1
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Trailing white smoke, lost power steering.... yay?
Still waiting for the flatbed to arrive, luckily only 30mins from home coming back from holiday. Are the transmission and power steering systems separate? There is a lot of oil leaking out. I will pull the covers off and take some photos later on.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Part of every good holiday! The fluid is very watery looking. No CEL, braking and acceleration were fine but these cars are unbelievably heavy to turn without power steering! I think the smoke was the fluid going all over the exhaust. It has coated everything from the radiator fan to the engine sump, transmission sump, the plastics underneath and even some on the exhaust around the diff area.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
What a mess. Pretty difficult to tell where it came from. Even as far back as the exhaust merger is covered in it.
This side is relatively cleaner.
This side it extends all the way into the wheel.
I was suspecting this join but not sure.
Most of the hose I can see looks intact, no obvious splits but I would need to remove it to be sure. Unfortunately removal looks like a difficult job. The power steering reservoir is empty. I think I am going to have to buy some more fluid and see where it leaks from. It came out in a hurry while driving so it should be easy to pinpoint with the car in the garage and no undercovers on. The WIS suggests that it only requires 1 liter to fill the system. This seems like a very small amount, is this correct? Now to find some Pentosin CHF 11S.
This side is relatively cleaner.
This side it extends all the way into the wheel.
I was suspecting this join but not sure.
Most of the hose I can see looks intact, no obvious splits but I would need to remove it to be sure. Unfortunately removal looks like a difficult job. The power steering reservoir is empty. I think I am going to have to buy some more fluid and see where it leaks from. It came out in a hurry while driving so it should be easy to pinpoint with the car in the garage and no undercovers on. The WIS suggests that it only requires 1 liter to fill the system. This seems like a very small amount, is this correct? Now to find some Pentosin CHF 11S.
#4
Super Member
The power steering and transmission are separate entities. Your problem would seem to be power steering pump related. With luck it is only a hose which can be replaced relatively inexpensively. AMG's are never easy to work on as there is so little room left after AMG has stuffed all the "go go" stuff in every available nook and cranny. You are lucky in that the undercarriage looks like new. Obviously no salt from winter driving. I wish our cars here in Canada had the same luck. Good luck on the repair.
#6
MBworld Guru
Once you get the leak repaired (hopefully it's just a bad hose), then you'll need to refill and bleed the system. DO NOT start the engine or operate the pump until this procedure is completed!
Lift both front wheels off the ground so that you can easily turn the steering wheel without resistance from the tires. Note that your car has a center jack point - a large rubber block protruding from the lower engine cover. With a proper low-profile jack, you can lift here and then place jack stands under the normal jack points behind each of the front wheels.
Fill the reservoir to the full mark, then repeatedly turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock while observing bubbles in the reservoir as the system bleeds. Be ready to refill the reservoir so that it does not go below the minimum level. This means you will likely need a helper to turn the steering wheel for you. After about twenty steering cycles, the bubbles should stop and the level should remain constant. The system has now been properly filled and bled.
Lift both front wheels off the ground so that you can easily turn the steering wheel without resistance from the tires. Note that your car has a center jack point - a large rubber block protruding from the lower engine cover. With a proper low-profile jack, you can lift here and then place jack stands under the normal jack points behind each of the front wheels.
Fill the reservoir to the full mark, then repeatedly turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock while observing bubbles in the reservoir as the system bleeds. Be ready to refill the reservoir so that it does not go below the minimum level. This means you will likely need a helper to turn the steering wheel for you. After about twenty steering cycles, the bubbles should stop and the level should remain constant. The system has now been properly filled and bled.
#7
Member
If it was just a hose yes, bleed the system. If the pump went bad you will want to flush the system well to get rid of the metal shavings that will be in the fluid. If you don't you will just be doing the job again in the not to distant future.
Trending Topics
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
The power steering and transmission are separate entities. Your problem would seem to be power steering pump related. With luck it is only a hose which can be replaced relatively inexpensively. AMG's are never easy to work on as there is so little room left after AMG has stuffed all the "go go" stuff in every available nook and cranny. You are lucky in that the undercarriage looks like new. Obviously no salt from winter driving. I wish our cars here in Canada had the same luck. Good luck on the repair.
Once you get the leak repaired (hopefully it's just a bad hose), then you'll need to refill and bleed the system. DO NOT start the engine or operate the pump until this procedure is completed!
Lift both front wheels off the ground so that you can easily turn the steering wheel without resistance from the tires. Note that your car has a center jack point - a large rubber block protruding from the lower engine cover. With a proper low-profile jack, you can lift here and then place jack stands under the normal jack points behind each of the front wheels.
Fill the reservoir to the full mark, then repeatedly turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock while observing bubbles in the reservoir as the system bleeds. Be ready to refill the reservoir so that it does not go below the minimum level. This means you will likely need a helper to turn the steering wheel for you. After about twenty steering cycles, the bubbles should stop and the level should remain constant. The system has now been properly filled and bled.
Lift both front wheels off the ground so that you can easily turn the steering wheel without resistance from the tires. Note that your car has a center jack point - a large rubber block protruding from the lower engine cover. With a proper low-profile jack, you can lift here and then place jack stands under the normal jack points behind each of the front wheels.
Fill the reservoir to the full mark, then repeatedly turn the steering wheel fully lock to lock while observing bubbles in the reservoir as the system bleeds. Be ready to refill the reservoir so that it does not go below the minimum level. This means you will likely need a helper to turn the steering wheel for you. After about twenty steering cycles, the bubbles should stop and the level should remain constant. The system has now been properly filled and bled.
I think this must be a hose or fitting failure to occur so suddenly. How would I know if the pump is ok? Just if fluid drips out of it? I will give this a good go before going to the Indy.
#9
Member
Hope you find it is just a hose or something. When my pump went it happened very quickly. I just heard a little noise and since I was close by I drove straight to my indi. By the time I got there (just s few miles) the pump was vomiting fluid all over the place.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Anyway here is the leak. I didn't need to complete the air bleeding to find it.
There is a small hole on the top. I have no idea how this could have happened but it is the only place it started to drip when full of fluid again.
Hopefully this is the rubber jack point you were talking about Rodney. Unfortunately to remove the hose I need to remove this whole hardline which goes all the way to the pump and rack.
There is a inverse torx bolt in here, I'm sure it will be very accessable
And the line needs to be removed from the pump via the banjo fitting. Are there any new gaskets or procedures needed to reseal this once I hopefully put it back on?
I read in another post people have had hydraulic hose specialists crimp new hoses on. Is this the best approach? I am guessing a whole new line would be very expensive. Thanks everyone for the help so far.
#11
MBworld Guru
I think that's the pressure hose, and it's surprisingly affordable:
https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...5-%20Liter-GAS
Even if it's the return hose, it's still not terribly expensive, but it probably would cost less to have a local shop press on a new hose.
And yes, that is the proper center jack point.
As a temporary fix, you might be able to take a piece of hose that can be cut and placed over the leak, then held on with hose clamps.
https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...5-%20Liter-GAS
Even if it's the return hose, it's still not terribly expensive, but it probably would cost less to have a local shop press on a new hose.
And yes, that is the proper center jack point.
As a temporary fix, you might be able to take a piece of hose that can be cut and placed over the leak, then held on with hose clamps.
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I am fairly confident it is the lower return hose. Unfortunately I don't think I will be able to have that shipped very easily and I assume RHD/LHD are different. Mine doesn't look quite like that, it loops around the back to go to the other side of the car below the engine to the other end of the steering rack (right hand drive).
I am slightly embarrassed, this is very ghetto thought but I am almost considering cutting the hose before the hole and using a barb fitting to join a new hose piece on. It was good enough for mercedes on the other end (hose with a hose clamp rather than a proper crimp). Also brass appears to be safe to use with power steering fluid. It would save all the trouble of trying to remove it and disturbing who knows what other seals in the process. I would like to replace the whole hose but it is still supple, not cracked or dry and seems in very good condition.
I am slightly embarrassed, this is very ghetto thought but I am almost considering cutting the hose before the hole and using a barb fitting to join a new hose piece on. It was good enough for mercedes on the other end (hose with a hose clamp rather than a proper crimp). Also brass appears to be safe to use with power steering fluid. It would save all the trouble of trying to remove it and disturbing who knows what other seals in the process. I would like to replace the whole hose but it is still supple, not cracked or dry and seems in very good condition.
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I picked up some crush clamps, 3/8" ID power steering hose and a barb hose connector. I got it from a hose specialist who does everything from hydraulics, brake, clutch lines, everything. They said they can easily crimp new hose onto the hardline but again that would involve me removing it which I don't really want to do unless I have to. They also said don't buy a BMW as they have aluminum pipes which cannot be re-crimped.
Here is the hole causing all the trouble!
Hose and connector
They said this stuff would be more than adequate for the high pressure side let alone the return line.
The small amount of original hose is now the weakest part. If there are any more problems there will be no option but to remove the whole thing.
Hope this helps someone.
#18
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Thanks. Filled it up and bled it last night. No more leak. Just have to start the car to check under pressure and then clean the mess. Is power steering fluid corrosive like brake fluid? It seems to evaporate easily which is helpful.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Thanks heaps for all your help. Car is running perfectly, not even an atom of fluid leaking. Still burning off some of the mess on the exhaust I couldn't wash off. Total cost including tow is probably about 1/4 of what I think I would have paid at the dealer.
#22
Senior Member
160k mi and I just found I have a leak coming from between the reservoir and the pressure hose. I was planning on just buying the gasket part #0004661880 but wondering if I should replace the whole hose (which is starting to look a bit old). I see others on here getting holes in their hoses so is the failure rate high enough that I should do this? I'd rather not spend the $200 for a hose unless I need to.
Also, any help with DIY steps here?
Thanks
Also, any help with DIY steps here?
Thanks
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
I would replace all of it if you can afford it. Otherwise at least the reservoir which was pretty cheap online. Just check the hose isn't too difficult to remove. That's why i didn't take mine out. It would have taken a week and required a lot of other things to be removed.
#24
Senior Member
Thanks Tw2. Ya, I'm not sure of the work involved in changing the hose either. Of course the top end at the reservoir would be simple especially if changing it also but not sure about the other end. Looks like I'd possibly have to get under the car.
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Yes you will definitely be spending a lot of time under the car. You will probably have to remove the crossmember and maybe other braces to get to some of those hoses. Not any easy job.