DanielFD

yes agreed! great car! great picture too! I'm pretty hopeful it will work itself out. keep us posted.

Glyn M Ruck

Sorry for late reply. I get swamped with PM's. You have done all the right things. Check to see that fluid has not wicked up the TCU harness to the TCU. The TCU is under the passenger side kick plate. Pull back the carpet.

Other option is to put the car on a Star & make sure all the lockup pressures are correct & reset all adaptions.

Make sure that all mountings are good, propshaft centre bearing & flex discs OK. Make sure that the transmission tailshaft nut has not come loose. Happened on a doctor friend's E Class the other day with a 722.6.
Good luck!

LordPhoenix

Just an update. Car is going in tomorrow for diagnostics and adaptions reset on STAR.

Can someone please explain why it drives PERFECT when cold and terribly when up to temp. It's actually gotten worse when warm.

Car jerks more even during aggressive throttle. Droning sound is frequent during light throttle. Cars revs drop to 1000 for a few seconds before it starts moving.

I'm lost. Are there any long term problems with a permanent disable of the lockup clutch? And why only when warm?

Thanks friends.

megacrazy

Sounds like it's f***ed. I think the initial service bulletin stated to change the fluid and if that doesn't help replace the transmission. Adaptations will help with shift points and other weird behavior but if you have a droning sound and the revs drop before the car starts moving I would start looking around for a replacement.

LordPhoenix

Good News Everyone

Car came back from being reset and software reloaded/updated on the TCU.

Smooth as butter (almost) going in tomorrow to perform the other adaption procedure. Driving on a straight road bla bla.

Thanks for the help.

megacrazy

So wait, the droning and slipping went away after software adaptation?

LordPhoenix

Yes. According to my buddy. The TCU somehow lost all settings and after updating the software on the TCU and resetting adaptions the car shift smooth. And no droning sounds or jerks when up to temp.

I actually drove it for 30 min or so. But he took it back with him

DanielFD

Congratss! yes disconnecting your battery would have the same effect, unless the reload of the software was the reason it fixed it. important thing is your done with all that! it was a great day when my trans finally started working correctly..

LordPhoenix

I'll be honest, I'm still not used to it being back to normal, its as if I got used to the jerking, so I'm driving around and when hitting a certain speed and throttle amount I'm still expecting a jerk,

But she drives beautifully, Its a completely different car to a few days ago when I though the box was definitely stuffed,

Now if I can only get the damn Drivers Window to retract upon opening like the passenger side does I'll be good to go.

To anyone out there who might have or has the same issue, if you catch it early enough, the procedures I followed can save the box, but get your Gearbox adaptions reset by a good Indy or Dealer when you done

Thanks for all the help and support guys!!

DanielFD

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...-last-bit.html

LordPhoenix

Mine closes the last bit, my issue is that when I open my driver side door, the window does not retract that little bit, so if I get out and don't manually push the window slightly down, it doesn't pass nicely over the rubber in the door frame and pinches it.

I've tried pulling out the fuse and it resets the window but then the reverse happens where the door will open that little bit, but not move upwards automatically for the last bit until I actually sync the window again, then the 1st issues takes effect.

DanielFD

Are you syncing both ways? meaning are you holding the button with the window open and the window closed?

LordPhoenix

Not actually sure, I've always just synced up.

DanielFD

Sounds like that's your problem there. Try syncing up for 4 seconds then directly syncing down for 4 seconds. let us know if that works.

LordPhoenix

So the weirdest thing happened. I did the sync both ways.

Opening the door and my interior lights flickered for a few seconds but the window still didn't retract.

Not sure maybe I need a new door control module but how do I test if my current one is faulty.

Rudeney

Try pulling the fuse for the door controller for a minute to reset it (#21 for the left door, #22 for the right - on the cabin fuse panel, end of the dash on driver's side). You will then need to re-sync the window. The proper procedure is, with the door closed, to lower the glass halfway (do NOT hold the button in the down position and let the glass go all the way down as this can incorrectly sync it). With the glass halfway down, pull the button up to raise it fully, and continue holding the button for an additional 5 seconds.

DanielFD

I've been syncing my windows for my car, my brother cars, and my dads car all the same way (up and down) and I've never had a problem before.

Rudeney

I once had one sync incorrectly. I used to do it by lowering the glass fully, then raising it fully. Once, on a W203, I was lowing the glass and I guess I accidentally held the button down just a bit too long and it "accepted that as the sync position. When raising the glass, it would move to the top, then it would drop down an inch. I had to pull the fuse to "reboot" to door controller and re-sync it. I was actually able to duplicate this - apparently the door controller can get "confused" if you hold an unsychronized window in the down position.

DanielFD

interesting.. didn't know that was possible. thanks for explaining that.

LordPhoenix

So I did the re-sync, pulled the fuse and the window automatically dropped, this let me know the values have been reset,

So I synced it up, and hurray!! The window auto retracted the 1cm when opening and closed the 1cm when closing the door,

I then opened the door again and nothing happened, lol!.

I'm confused, why would it work once?

Rudeney

You did sync with the door closed, right? I would try it again: lower the glass halfway, pull the fuse, replace the fuse, close the door, then hold the button in the up position until the glass closes fully, hold 5 seconds and release. If this doesn't do it, then it may be a bad window regulator.

LordPhoenix

So this is what I did,

Rolled the window down half way, pulled the fuse,replaced it, closed the door, started the car, rolled the window up and held it for 8 seconds, let the car idle for 30 seconds, switched off,

Opened the door the get out of the car, the window retracted 1cm, closed the door, it moved up 1cm - Perfect.

Opened the door again a second time- Nothing, it didn't retract 1cm,

I can duplicate this behaviour, if I sync the windows using the above procedure, it works exactly once, I can't understand it,

Is it the door control module? The window regulator? Why would it work the 1st time and then stop.

insame1

I have always synced the windows the same way in ever MB i have owned.

1. Key on, position 2
2. Door closed with window up
3. Move window to fully open w/out using the auto feature
4. When window hits bottom press harder to activate the auto feature and hold for 5 seconds
5. Move widow to the closed position w/out using the auto feature
6. When window is fully closed pull up to activate the auto feature and hold for 5 seconds

LordPhoenix

Going to give this procedure a try, but as I said, the 1cm retraction on opening works once after a re-sync and then not again, the auto-up of the window upon close always works,

LordPhoenix

Tried this, same thing, works once after the resync, I'm lost.