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I don't usually post DIY's. I'm not a mechanic, just a handy guy, here goes...
You’ll need:
New oil cooler (comes with new oil filter preinstalled)
Part: 272-180-05-10 http://www.shopmercedesbmwonline.com...enz/2721800510
New gallon of MB coolant
New belt (if you want to replace that too)
E12 Torx socket
E8 torx socket
8mm socket
10mm deep socket
17mm socket and long handle wrench
Socket wrench and extensions
Catch basin
Bunch of rags
Philips screwdriver or something to shove into the belt tensioner
Time: Allow 3 hours, took me 2.5
Modifications from WIS:
WIS says to drain and remove the power steering reservoir to the right of the oil cooler. I have no idea why because that is not in the way at all.
WIS says to remove the radiator hose, instead I loosened the connector and left it in place
WIS says to remove the radiator fan, I left it on and it wasn’t in the way at all.
WIS says to remove the oil filter. If you haven’t run the car since the day prior don’t bother removing it. Nothing even dripped from mine when I removed it and the new one has the filter already installed.
Note: Removing the oil cooler would be a cake job if it wasn’t for the top bolt being hidden behind the coolant hose connector and the bottom bolt being hidden by the belt tensioner. These are the two main problems to deal with.
1: Remove the belt, belt tensioner and other belt fly wheel to the left of it.
First, if you don’t have the WIS take a picture of the belt so you know how it goes back on. Using the 16mm socket and large handle wrench turn the large nut counter clockwise to release the tension on the belt. While holding it feel around under the tensioner for the lock hole (note the lock hole is only accessible while tensioner is released). You will need a screwdriver that fits the hole to put into it. Slowly release the tensioner and it should hold it in place. Remove the belt… hey now you know how to change your belt!
Using E12 torx socket and a small socket extension carefully remove the two torx bolts holding the tensioner on and CAREFULLY remove the tensioner. You only have access to the bottom torx bolt while the tensioner is locked in place. If your screwdriver comes out while the tensioner is removed from the vehicle you might be screwed trying to turn it again unless you have a vice. I will admit removing the belt tensioner was a little scary, the whole time I was thinking I was going to hit the screwdriver on something causing the thing to snap back bruise my hand lol.
Now remove the small free spinning fly wheel that is to the left of the tensioner using an E8 torx socket. One of the oil cooler bolts is hidden behind it.
Removing belt tensioner, fly wheel and belt
Tensioner and fly wheel removed
At this point you now have access to all the bolts on the oil cooler except for the one at the top left which is hidden by the coolant hose connector.
2: Remove the plastic skid panel under the engine using 8mm socket to remove the screws
3: Put your catch basin under the care and drain coolant by unscrewing the red plug under the radiator. Ok, I was a little stupid and skipped this step. Instead I just started taking off the oil cooler and let the coolant all dump out into my basin. I was a little dumb thinking only the coolant in the engine would come out.. instead all of it came out including the reservoir. Oops
4: Remove the E12 torx bolts from the oil cooler, note you still don’t have access to the one at the top left at this point. Lay them out on a table in the pattern they’re currently in so you remember where they go. Unfortunately the bolts are all different lengths ughhh.
5: Now you’ve got to get access to the final top left bolt of the oil cooler. What I did is remove the right side bolt and loosen the left bolt holding the hose connector just enough to push it aside, now that was a problem because the left side bolt was hidden by what I think is some air pump motor. I used a deep socket and extension and jammed it between the pump to get the bolt loose on the hose connector, do not loosen the bolt too much or else it will start backing out into the plastic motor casing and crack it. With the left bolt on the hose connector loose and the right one removed you can now move the connector just enough to sneak in a deep 10mm socket onto the final E12 torx holding the oil cooler (yes a 10mm socket works on an E12 torx). The bolt is long so in order to get it out the hose connector needs to be pushed aside. I feel like if the bolt should have been a .5in shorter. Congrats it’s finally off!
6: With the oil cooler removed wipe around the where the seal was to get any leftover gasket off before you put your new one on.
7: Bolt on the new oil cooler with the correct bolts in the correct places. Tighten back up the two bolts on the hose connector. Put your belt tensioner and pulley back on. Put the belt back on. Fill your antifreeze back up (note MB antifreeze is mixed with water 50/50). Run the engine for a few minutes putting more antifreeze in and you should be good to go. My ‘low antifreeze’ message came on the morning after. I topped it off and it’s been good since.
Since I made a mess of dumping antifreeze out, and the oil cooler was leaking oil, I sprayed the front of the engine with engine cleaner, let it soak and hosed it off. Came out perfect.
You rock Rodney!
Rodney, anyone, any there a sheet with torque specs for the m273 engine and w209 on the forum? Just general stuff like, oil housing, pulleys, pumps, valves, engine head bolts etc.
Same question for the w209 chassis, suspension etc.
I know you can buy this on eBay, but I thought I'd ask, to save 30 bucks..
Thanks.
05-20-2016, 08:58 AM
