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This just started on my 05 clk320 a few days ago. It's been getting worse and I hope to god it's not from the engine. It appears to be coming from the bushing on the control arm itself. Everything else seems dry. I've researched this very same problem but could not find an answer to what it was or if the problem went away after replacing the bushing. Are these bushings fluid filled or not?? And if so, do they leak when they get worn??
Yes the bushings are filled with a fluid. Yes, it sure looks like it is the bushing that is leaking. To be certain, open the hood and try to trace the leak. If you see nothing from above it is the bushing. You can buy a new control arm that will come with the bushing for about $85. I would recommend getting the OEM Lemfoerder. There are others for less, but they come from China and the quality control can be lacking.
Yes the bushings are filled with a fluid. Yes, it sure looks like it is the bushing that is leaking. To be certain, open the hood and try to trace the leak. If you see nothing from above it is the bushing. You can buy a new control arm that will come with the bushing for about $85. I would recommend getting the OEM Lemfoerder. There are others for less, but they come from China and the quality control can be lacking.
Do you recommend replacing all four control arms rather than the bushings alone? I'd hate to go through the hassle if the ball joints are ok for the time being. The car has 111k. The bushings are only 40 bucks a piece.
Do you recommend replacing all four control arms rather than the bushings alone? I'd hate to go through the hassle if the ball joints are ok for the time being. The car has 111k. The bushings are only 40 bucks a piece.
The bushing replacement requires special tools that usually only a well equipped shop will have. The labor to replace a bushing is more time consuming than replacement of the entire arm that will come with a new bushing already installed on the control arm. I would replace just the one control arm that is leaking.
My advice is to replace all four struts (control arms) and to only use genuine MBZ or OEM Lemfoerder. Zip439 is correct - replacing just the bushing is more labor intensive than a new strut because you still must remove the strut, then you have to deal with removing and fitting the bushing which is a very tight fit. On top of that, your ball joints are 100K+ miles old and likely could replacement, too. Those frame bushings on the struts are critical to alignment. As they wear, caster and camber gets out of spec, and you get additional vibration. Most all brands besides MBZ and Lemfoerder are made in China and reports of bushging quality are not good.
My advice is to replace all four struts (control arms) and to only use genuine MBZ or OEM Lemfoerder. Zip439 is correct - replacing just the bushing is more labor intensive than a new strut because you still must remove the strut, then you have to deal with removing and fitting the bushing which is a very tight fit. On top of that, your ball joints are 100K+ miles old and likely could replacement, too. Those frame bushings on the struts are critical to alignment. As they wear, caster and camber gets out of spec, and you get additional vibration. Most all brands besides MBZ and Lemfoerder are made in China and reports of bushging quality are not good.
I guess that explains why driving on the 405 through LA (terribly freeway 😡at 70 miles an hour feels like crap haha. The car is slightly turning the right and it doesn't feel tight at all compared to when I bought the car two years ago. The handling was amazing when I first bought it and now its not comfortable to drive anymore when going over rough uneven roads. My moms 2000 ml430 with 135k miles feels better than this car. Hopefully replacing these control arms as well as the motor mounts will make it feel like new again! I already had the sway bar and the end links replaced. And since the car feels a bit bouncy going over bumps maybe I should replace the struts too? I really love this car and want it to feel like new again. Deciding if keeping this car is worth it or just trade it in on a newer one?
Yes, replacing the control arms will make it feel like a new car. I would not replace the shocks unless they are bad. Check them for leaks, and do a bounce test: push down on the car, then release. It should come back up and then stop. If it bounces, then the shocks may need replacing. Oh, and get an alignment once the work is done. Make sure to use a shop that is capable of installing the camber bolts if necessary (though with new arms, it's usually not).
You'd be surprised how much increased driving smoothness you'll get after replacing the engine mounts! Night and day for me whether in idle, in kickdown, or in cruising. The car simple felt brand new again (given that I had all bad suspension parts replaced).
You'd be surprised how much increased driving smoothness you'll get after replacing the engine mounts! Night and day for me whether in idle, in kickdown, or in cruising. The car simple felt brand new again (given that I had all bad suspension parts replaced).
My Indy wants to charge 900 for motor mounts and tranny mount. And 1500 for upper and lower control arms.
$900 for the mounts is not too bad. They do have to lift the engine and it's really tight working quarters. Parts are probably 25% of it. As for the control arms, that's very high. Lemfoerder parts are maybe $400 and I'd say two hours per side - should be well under $1000 for that job.
$900 for the mounts is not too bad. They do have to lift the engine and it's really tight working quarters. Parts are probably 25% of it. As for the control arms, that's very high. Lemfoerder parts are maybe $400 and I'd say two hours per side - should be well under $1000 for that job.
I'd like to do the control arms myself. And I'm starting to get concerned because it's still leaking underneath from the control arm bushing. It must be coming from somewhere else? It's hard to see where. I can feel around it and it appears dry. It's just coming from that one bushing!
The issue with engine mounts is the labor involved. You have to remove the exhaust and lift the engine to do the job. Book rate is 3.4 hours for the front mounts, and about an hour for the rear. Plus parts. Genuine MBZ mounts are $135 each for the front, and $70 rear. $900 is a bit high, but not "robbery".
xsever has completely forgotten about labor rates outside of our country.. something like that here would cost maybe 40$ in labor. Oh and I've never removed the exhaust to change motor mounts. Just a lift of the engine and some tight spaces but its not that bad.
05 CLK55 AMG (1 of 247) Cubanitsilber designo series
Agree with Rodney. The labor is in dropping the exhaust system to get at the mounts. It's probably 2 hours per side plus an hour for the transmission mount, and the cost of parts.
Agree with Rodney. The labor is in dropping the exhaust system to get at the mounts. It's probably 2 hours per side plus an hour for the transmission mount, and the cost of parts.
An hour for the tranny mount? I heard it only takes 20 minutes if you know what you are doing. Much easier than the front motor mounts.
I'd definitely not pay hundreds of dollars for the rear mount. If you can safely lift and support the car, then get a jack under the transmission, you can change it - it's not much harder than changing a spare tire.
Got a closer look at these control arms and couldn't believe how bad they were. I'm definitely going to replace the entire arm and not just the bushings. They've obviously never been replaced!
06-10-2016, 05:53 AM
at 70 miles an hour feels like crap haha. The car is slightly turning the right and it doesn't feel tight at all compared to when I bought the car two years ago. The handling was amazing when I first bought it and now its not comfortable to drive anymore when going over rough uneven roads. My moms 2000 ml430 with 135k miles feels better than this car. Hopefully replacing these control arms as well as the motor mounts will make it feel like new again! I already had the sway bar and the end links replaced. And since the car feels a bit bouncy going over bumps maybe I should replace the struts too? I really love this car and want it to feel like new again. Deciding if keeping this car is worth it or just trade it in on a newer one? 
