New to MBWorld - 1st CLK500
#1
New to MBWorld - 1st CLK500
Hello all,
Today I purchased my first MB, 03 CLK500. Runs strong, shifts strong, no real major issues, no 'malfunctions'. Minor problems include valve cover gaskets and 3rd brake light need to be repaired. My understanding is both are very common on these vehicles. The glove box latch is broken, so it hangs open. This will be the first thing I resolve. Any suggestions on parts or diagrams would be appreciated.
Also, what interior is this? I've never seen another CLK with this interior scheme.
Here's a few pictures:
Today I purchased my first MB, 03 CLK500. Runs strong, shifts strong, no real major issues, no 'malfunctions'. Minor problems include valve cover gaskets and 3rd brake light need to be repaired. My understanding is both are very common on these vehicles. The glove box latch is broken, so it hangs open. This will be the first thing I resolve. Any suggestions on parts or diagrams would be appreciated.
Also, what interior is this? I've never seen another CLK with this interior scheme.
Here's a few pictures:
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've seen a few pics of that interior before. Fairly uncommon, I'm sure. As for your glove box, it depends. Sometimes they don't latch because the latch attached to the car get's loose. Easy fix. But often the latch on the door itself breaks. No fix besides a new door. The latch parts are not sold separately, and the door halves are glued together so you can't get in there anyway. New door at the dealer is in the $600 range I think. Some people have used magnets to hold the door shut.
#4
Senior Member
Car looks great. I had a black '06 CLK500 coupe that I recently sold. I loved it but after 4.5 years it was time to replace it. For some quick mods, I suggest smoked clear corner lamps and a new single bar grill. Then maybe doing dual exhausts if you want to spend a little money. Also, If you're not crazy about the dark tail lights you have, I have facelifted ('06-'09) OEM tail lights for sale. PM me, if interested. Enjoy the car!
I would recommend replacing it now. I had to deal with a year of it not being able to open at all and had to replace it when I sold it. Had I replaced it when it broke, I would have had a useable glovebox.
The part number is A209 680 00 98 and I believe the color code is 9E97 for black interior. Maybe you can get a 2nd confirmation on that part # is right and can git your older car. Not sure if the glovebox changed at all over the years but it doesn't look like it did.
A buddy of mine works at a dealership and he got it for me for $286+tax at his employee price. You can probably get one online in the low $300s. I also installed it myself. Not too complicated.
The part number is A209 680 00 98 and I believe the color code is 9E97 for black interior. Maybe you can get a 2nd confirmation on that part # is right and can git your older car. Not sure if the glovebox changed at all over the years but it doesn't look like it did.
A buddy of mine works at a dealership and he got it for me for $286+tax at his employee price. You can probably get one online in the low $300s. I also installed it myself. Not too complicated.
Last edited by Kevin9664; 06-15-2016 at 11:52 PM.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
very nice interior! clean looking car, I would probably remove the film on the tail lights (assuming its not painted) but if you like it then black out the rest of the car
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Congratulations on this sweet ride!
If there are no service records for these items, I would definitely tackle them:
-Transmission Fluid + Filter + Gasket Replacement
-AC Filter Replacement
-Research and inspect the transmission pilot bushing for any leaks since there's been a part update which solves the transmission fluid problem leaking into the TCU.
-Research and make sure your radiator is made by BEHR and not VALEO since the latter can leak coolant into the transmission fluid and that could end up expensive.
Other than that, the remainder is wear and tear.
Enjoy the V8!
If there are no service records for these items, I would definitely tackle them:
-Transmission Fluid + Filter + Gasket Replacement
-AC Filter Replacement
-Research and inspect the transmission pilot bushing for any leaks since there's been a part update which solves the transmission fluid problem leaking into the TCU.
-Research and make sure your radiator is made by BEHR and not VALEO since the latter can leak coolant into the transmission fluid and that could end up expensive.
Other than that, the remainder is wear and tear.
Enjoy the V8!
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#8
Thanks everyone for the welcome words, compliments and information. So far I really enjoy the car. I was told the (black/red) interior might be a "designo" package. It doesn't say it anywhere in the car so I'm unsure. Also, the wheels are AMG's but I'm unsure off of what vehicle, anyone here recognize them? I'm trying to find the dimensions of these wheels for future tire replacements.
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Lots of aftermarket wheels say AMG on them - legally or illegally, I'm not sure. If they are genuine AMG wheels there will be an MB part number on the backside and and they will say made in Austria or some such place. Pretty sure those are aftermarket.
#10
MBworld Guru
Welcome to the forum! Nice car - love the interior! If you'd like, I can check your data card (build sheet) in EPC to see if that is Designo. Just post your VIN.
#11
Yidney, thank you for the info on the wheels. I'll have to see exactly what I have but they appear to be AMG SL63 wheels as pictured here: http://srv2.betterparts.org/images/m...-63-amg-14.jpg
Rodney,
WDBT
J75J6
3F05
9770
I read your Private Message announcement, very articulate and humble. Thanks for your contributions.
Rodney,
WDBT
J75J6
3F05
9770
I read your Private Message announcement, very articulate and humble. Thanks for your contributions.
#12
MBworld Guru
Yep, it's a Designo. Here's the data card:
http://benzbits.com/WDBTJ75J63F059770.pdf
820A and 827A are Designo option codes for custom-colored Nappa leather seating.
http://benzbits.com/WDBTJ75J63F059770.pdf
820A and 827A are Designo option codes for custom-colored Nappa leather seating.
#13
Awesome, my hunch was correct. Thank you for researching that. Can you see what the car was sold for in 03, or MSRP/original window sticker?
BTW, I also fixed the glove box at no cost other than about 2 hours of my time. It was a combination issue and I'm not sure what occurred first but primarily the catch for the latch needed to be adjusted. It was very loose and had a large amount of play rather than being mounted firmly to the dash near the 6 CD changer. Secondly, the latch it's self was "latched" and actuating the lever on the glove box cover that would normally release the latch did not work. The glove box was open but the latch itself was stuck closed basically. I simply had to remount and adjust the catch and also manually unlock the latch at the mechanism. Now it all works beautifully. I was able to gain an understanding of where to start by searching this forum and watching a few YouTube video's of similar issues. The collective contribution once again to the rescue.
BTW, I also fixed the glove box at no cost other than about 2 hours of my time. It was a combination issue and I'm not sure what occurred first but primarily the catch for the latch needed to be adjusted. It was very loose and had a large amount of play rather than being mounted firmly to the dash near the 6 CD changer. Secondly, the latch it's self was "latched" and actuating the lever on the glove box cover that would normally release the latch did not work. The glove box was open but the latch itself was stuck closed basically. I simply had to remount and adjust the catch and also manually unlock the latch at the mechanism. Now it all works beautifully. I was able to gain an understanding of where to start by searching this forum and watching a few YouTube video's of similar issues. The collective contribution once again to the rescue.
Last edited by M.Hicks; 06-17-2016 at 11:51 PM.
#15
My CLK 320 had this exact same issue, it was a PITA to get to the latch - removing the CD holder and CD changer was required - after an hour and a half of carefully trying to remove either of them without causing any damage I ended up shoving a screwdriver through the CD holder and ripping it out with sheer frustration - those two are really tightly packed together and I found it impossible to prise either both or one of them out to get to the latch. Unfortunately the CD holder lost out over the CD changer!
I now have a fully working latch, but no CD holder (though I can't say I would have ever used it, plus I now have more room in said glove box)!
Last edited by DroolinFool; 06-19-2016 at 07:05 AM.
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've never quite understood the difficulty some people report in removing the CD changer. On mine, and every one I've ever seen a picture of, on the right side of it at the top there is a bracket with one small torx screw that goes into the roof of the glove box. On the left, there are one or two tabs that go through slots on the left side of the glove box. You remove the one screw, then slide the unit right to disengage the tabs, and it just slides out. Might take me 60 seconds. But by your description, yours is, or was, different. You talked about "two" things being tightly packed together. Is your "holder" not just a 6-CD cartridge that goes into the player? Or did you really have two separately powered units in there?
#18
My cd changer is the same as the one pictured - however also has this next to it in the gap which sits over the screw to remove the CD player. This is not a powered unit or cd player - it's just a cd holder/storage. After some back and forth I was able to remove the screw that you're talking about - BUT as the CD holder is so tightly packed against the CD changer it made no difference as you just can't get any leverage. The only way I managed to remove the CD changer was to smash through the CD holder and rip it out. After that I could then "slide" out the CD changer.
Edit; maybe I have a strange setup as I haven't actually been able to find a picture showing these two together. If you look at this and imagine it being in the gap right next to the cd changer (http://photos2.automanager.com/02140...37d94c_640.jpg) you'll understand what I mean.
Edit; maybe I have a strange setup as I haven't actually been able to find a picture showing these two together. If you look at this and imagine it being in the gap right next to the cd changer (http://photos2.automanager.com/02140...37d94c_640.jpg) you'll understand what I mean.
Last edited by DroolinFool; 06-19-2016 at 09:58 AM.
#19
I've found a few more issues with the car.
1) The drivers side head rest will not go down using the automatic seat adjustments.
2) The rear window shade it stuck out, will not retract. Makes a very loud rapid clicking sound for roughly 5 seconds then stops. Shade does not move.
3) Decided to wash the car yesterday, apparently the Arizona heat did not mix well with the windshield and it cracked almost the entire way from top to bottom. Didn't notice it until I got in to back the car into the garage. Roughly 110° yesterday. Anyone know if it's a pain to replace the windshield through insurance?
Rodney, no worries regarding the window sticker, thank you for the information provided.
1) The drivers side head rest will not go down using the automatic seat adjustments.
2) The rear window shade it stuck out, will not retract. Makes a very loud rapid clicking sound for roughly 5 seconds then stops. Shade does not move.
3) Decided to wash the car yesterday, apparently the Arizona heat did not mix well with the windshield and it cracked almost the entire way from top to bottom. Didn't notice it until I got in to back the car into the garage. Roughly 110° yesterday. Anyone know if it's a pain to replace the windshield through insurance?
Rodney, no worries regarding the window sticker, thank you for the information provided.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Both your issues 1 and 2 have been discussed a few times on the forum. Run a few searches and you should find your answers. As for insurance, call them. They vary quite a bit on windshield coverage - e.g., there may be no deductible, but there may be an upper limit. As windshields go, these are pretty expensive because of the antennas and light sensors. I think the convert may be more than the coupe, but when I did mine just because it was sand blasted, the dealer wanted about $1,200 and an indy wanted about $800. I used OEM glass.
#21
MBworld Guru
Regarding the glass replacement, I just went through this AGAIN last week. Four years ago, I had a rock break my windshield so I called my insurance company who persuaded me to use their "preferred" provider, SafeLite. They had a neat system for removing the old glass using a winch mounted to the glass with suction cups that dragged a razor wire around the perimeter of the glass to cut through the old adhesive. The problem is, they came within a centimeter of slicing the wiring harness in the overhead console. They also used crappy Chinese glass that pitted and scratched.
Last week, before I trade din my CLK, I had the glass replaced again. It broke when the wiper arms, sans blade, slammed down on the glass. Anyhow, my insurance again wanted me to use their preferred provider. I refuse SafeLite, so they suggested Glass Doctor. Well, this was a bigger nightmare. The guy left the car a mess - broken glass everywhere. He scuffed the dash at the front edge where it meets the glass. He did not replace the A pillar trim (inside and out) correctly, and the broke the rain sensor clips that attach it to the glass and the cover over the rain sensor. He also use pliers to remove the rear view mirror which left marks on its post. I took it back and the manager fixed the rain sensor (I had already fixed the trim) and refunded my deductible. Then, last Friday, when I reached up to use the Homelink button to close my garage door, the mirror came off in my hand. No, it did not come detached from the mount - the mount broke loose from the glass, actually breaking the glass! So they replaced it again and again screwed up the trim.
So, my advice with glass is this: Call your dealer and ask who they use (most dealers don't do it themselves, they subcontract the work). That's who I'd use (and who I wanted to use until my insurance persuaded me to use their preferred vendor).
Last week, before I trade din my CLK, I had the glass replaced again. It broke when the wiper arms, sans blade, slammed down on the glass. Anyhow, my insurance again wanted me to use their preferred provider. I refuse SafeLite, so they suggested Glass Doctor. Well, this was a bigger nightmare. The guy left the car a mess - broken glass everywhere. He scuffed the dash at the front edge where it meets the glass. He did not replace the A pillar trim (inside and out) correctly, and the broke the rain sensor clips that attach it to the glass and the cover over the rain sensor. He also use pliers to remove the rear view mirror which left marks on its post. I took it back and the manager fixed the rain sensor (I had already fixed the trim) and refunded my deductible. Then, last Friday, when I reached up to use the Homelink button to close my garage door, the mirror came off in my hand. No, it did not come detached from the mount - the mount broke loose from the glass, actually breaking the glass! So they replaced it again and again screwed up the trim.
So, my advice with glass is this: Call your dealer and ask who they use (most dealers don't do it themselves, they subcontract the work). That's who I'd use (and who I wanted to use until my insurance persuaded me to use their preferred vendor).
#23
I did a nationwide search on auto trader for all CLK's 2002-2009. Looked through about 25 pages of at least 10 cars per page and didn't see one of these black on red interiors, not one. So I'm going to assume its rare.
I'll post an update when I get the glass done. Tomorrow I'm getting a quote from the place that the MB dealer uses, and a quote from another very reputable place in Tucson that does luxury glass.
I'll post an update when I get the glass done. Tomorrow I'm getting a quote from the place that the MB dealer uses, and a quote from another very reputable place in Tucson that does luxury glass.
#24
MBworld Guru
Any Designo car is very rare. Partly because they were planned this way to be somewhat custom order or limited production vehicles, but also because it was a crazy-expensive option. The Designo option cost an additional $4K or more, and all it offered was some special interior and exterior colors. And now you see that in the used market, this is worth nothing extra. While there are some really nice looking Designo cars, IMHO, they were simply not worth the MSRP.
#25
I agree, probably not worth $4K+ new. However, as I personally do not care for woodgrain of any type on the interior I was willing to pay a few $100 to lock in this car, I didn't, but I was willing to.