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OK, let's review. Every single person - me included - told you the leak was engine oil. Not that we thought it was engine oil, but that it IS engine oil. I will bet you my two children that was engine oil. So you replaced a transmission seal. Did you replace the rear main seal on the engine? Doesn't look like it. So what sort of help are you looking for?
In the photos, it looks like engine oil to me, too. Since you asked for those torque values to remove the flywheel, I assume you replaced the rear engine seal? If so, then maybe this is the transmission seal leaking. Take a look a that shaft on the torque converter. It is very scored because the pump uses the older style sleeve bearing that will wear like this. It is possible the pump bearing is so worn, that the torque converter shaft wobbles and causes the seal to leak. The fix is to replace the pump, hopefully with one that uses an actual rolling needle bearing.
In the photos, it looks like engine oil to me, too. Since you asked for those torque values to remove the flywheel, I assume you replaced the rear engine seal? If so, then maybe this is the transmission seal leaking. Take a look a that shaft on the torque converter. It is very scored because the pump uses the older style sleeve bearing that will wear like this. It is possible the pump bearing is so worn, that the torque converter shaft wobbles and causes the seal to leak. The fix is to replace the pump, hopefully with one that uses an actual rolling needle bearing.
Guys I replaced:
- Rear main seal on engine
- Seal in transmission that works with torque converter
We had problem with oil identification because engine and transmission had similar color.
I pour the new transmission oil (red) and I have red fluid leakage...So we are 100% sure this is transmission.
When I stay under engine and looking though windows in transmission housing I see the oil comes from connection torque converter shaft/seal. I think it's pump.
The pump is a PITA to replace - you have to disassemble the entire transmission. I did this on my CLK. Find the videos published by ATRA for rebuilding the transmission and you'll see how to get to the pump.
I think I will send it to the pro because I'm rookie. I didn't check anything before assembly because my knowledge about automatic transmission is realy weak.
Anyone knows what is the part number of rolling needle bearing ? Is replacing that bearing don't include any changes in other parts?
Checking EPC, it looks like the 722.6 uses the same pump as the 722.9, part number A7222700197. This makes sense because the .9 is just a .6 with a few extra gears. That part is the revised fluid pump with the needle bearing and it also has a new seal already installed.
To access the o-ring on the pump seal, you have to remove the pump. Since the bolts are fromt he inside of the transmission bell housing, you have to disassemble the transmission to access them. Like I said, go to YouTube and lookup videos by ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilder's Assoc.) for the 722.6 rebuild and you'll see what it takes.
after all that work and it's still leaking, that really blows. it does look like engine oil in the first pictures you posted though, maybe we are all wrong, it was transmission fluid. now you put in the new transmission fluid the new leak now looks dark red. I think my car is leaking at the same spot so I really need to know what fluid it is first.
That video is spot on! My advice, if you are going to the trouble to replace the pump seal o-ring, replace the entire pump with the revised needle bearing version. It comes with a new o-ring seal and a new torque converter seal, ready to install.
just wondering.. that seal you have for the front pump on the trans. Its not MB is it? I understand that company makes the seals for MB.. But when i had my seal replaced i bought that same seal from the same brand for 10$. with the same part number even i went ahead and bought the MB one next. the MB seal was 35% thicker at least.. and 12$!
I removed oil pump from entire housing and I'm a bit confused. I found the reason causing the leakage. It was worn sleeve bearing. If you moving it's going in every way. So, the torque converter wobbling and seal can't hold it properly. I had a damage a oil gear and housing.
I'm still wondering about small aluminium chips you see on photo and metal chips on magetic stick. It is normal?
Metal fragments like that are absolutely NOT normal! Some fine sludge-like particulate adhered to the pan magnets is normal, but not visible chunks like that. What does the transmission bell housing where the pump mates look like? The pump could be chewing away at that. If so, it's best to replace the housing, though there is an aftermarket plate you can put in there.
It's hard to tell with the fluid there and being a 2D photo, but it looks pretty scored to me. What does it feel like when you run your finger over the surface? It should be smooth. If there are any ridges or roughness, you need to fix that - ideally, replace the bell housing, but one of those aftermarket plates might work, too.
After 1500 km problem is back. When oil is warm and I want to choose a gear D or R enigine stops like a choking. I feel car want to go because I hear sound from brakes. I can drive but I need to relase brake pedal quick nad push a throtlle. Everything is OK until I need to stop a car on D gear. I noticed abnormal sound from transmission.
Is that torque converter (lock up) ? I still wondering about aluminium dust from converter.
06-29-2016, 11:30 PM
Thank you for your time, knowledge and willingness 
