BigMike62

That is why they need to be jailed if they don't have insurance. It's like our borders, if nobody is enforcing it, people ignore the rules.

koolavz

No statement could be more accurate than the one you've just said.

Yidney

So in a 10 minute assessment at the certified MB body shop today, they estimated $2,900. That is for the knuckle/hub assembly, but no other suspension parts, refinishing the wheel, repainting the bumper (including new chrome strip that can never be saved) and an alignment. In other words, a pretty minor repair. They may conclude that some arm is bent, although I sure don't see it, or that some parts under the bumper broke, but basically $2,900 for one part and a bumper cover respray. At some level that just makes me laugh at the insanity of it. $2,900 for that. No wonder cars get totaled by insurance companies so easily. And I think about how $2,900 is several times the amount that was recently paid for the car that hit me, and how $2,900 would be the most money the person who hit me had ever seen in her life. So yeah, first world problems. So as frustrating as it may be, I can't waste any energy wishing the less fortunate was in jail for blemishing my Mercedes.

Rudeney

Since about two years ago, we now have to show proof of insurance when registering a car or renewing tags. They also have a computer database that state-licensed insurers must tie into. The DMV can verify insurance in seconds so it's not an issue.

The last time my wife bought a car, our insurance agent had delayed submitting the paperwork to the parent company so it wasn't in the computer yet. The DMV clerk was great and let me step aside to call and get the info faxed to her while she held my place in line. It's nice living in a "southern" rural/suburban county. But the flip side is that the municipalities use traffic fines for over 50% of their income (watch "My Cousin Vinny" - it's a documentary to us Alabamians). I got pulled over twice when I bought the SL before I registered it. We have 20 days to register a new car, wich is good because it took two weeks to get the title sent over. I bought it in Georgia so they had to process the title first there, and they gave me a temporary tag. Alabama does not use temp tags, so both times, I was pulled over because, "Boy, you got a funny lookin' tayg on that thar Murrr-SAY-deeees." I kid you not!

xsever

BigMike62

That sounds about right since they have to disassemble and replace the hub. The wheel refinish is probably $200 alone but I'd want to make damn sure it isn't bent. How can the hub get bent and the wheel not get bent?

Don't forget to get a fair diminished value from the insurance company. My wife had $8400 in damage to her '11 Grand Cherokee and the insurance company wanted to give me $575. A very long story short, I held my ground and got $2600.

Yidney

I guess those AMG wheel are pretty strong. If it is bent, it has to be very minor. There is no shimmy to the car, and if I put the passenger mirror down so I can see the tire, there is zero visible wobble. I may put it on the front this weekend and spin it so I can see for sure.

clydem

I'm in NJ. With 30+ years driving experience and a few accidents behind me, the general rule is *always* get a police report. It's CYA. The police *do not* turn it into the insurance company. Otherwise the offending party can say you jumped the stop sign and then your locked in a legal battle with them suing you. Depending on the ins. company you have a few days to a few weeks to report the accident. IMHO - take the car to two GOOD repair shops for written estimates. A dealer is fine. This way if they send an adjuster, the adjusters don't want to do extra work & will just take what you have. Without that, they might low-ball the repair then you may find yourself arguing with what should be covered and what shouldn't. Ask me how I know.
Then, with the report, you can then let the offending party pay out-of-pocket if you/they want. Let them leave their Credit Card at the repair shop.

Yidney

That would be good advice in most cases, but not really here. It was a slow motion collision that you'd be hard pressed to find the damage on the car that hit me because it was total piece of crap even before it hit me. I could buy that car with the money in my wallet. Them suing me would be an amusing diversion from work. The only estimate I got was from the only dealer-affiliated body shop in town. They did my front bumper about 4 years ago and it was a good job. I called another dealer I like much better, but their recommended shop could not get me in until August 29. For a bumper respray and a hub replacement I think a run of the mill certified MB shop will do.

Yidney

The saga for my "minor" repair continues. One arm is bent, and getting to the bolt that holds it requires dropping the suspension. So about $2,200 just got added to the repair to access one bolt. I know what bolt they are talking about, and almost posted once asking how the heck it can be removed. Almost been a month since a minor bump.

Rudeney

The lower shock mount does need to be removed from the steering knuckle in order to remove one of the control arms (sorry, can't remember if it's the upper or lower, a.k.a. torque strut or thrust arm). It's an extra 30 minutes of labor at most.

Yidney

They are replacing the whole knuckle, so all the arms need to come off on that end, but this is different. I need to take a pic when I get the car back, but I've noticed it on a couple of occasions when I've been under there and almost posted asking you how the heck the bolt comes out. It's where one of the upper arms towards the front of the car attaches to the car, not the knuckle. On one side, the end of the arm where the mounting bolt goes is only a half inch or so from the body of the car. But the bolt itself is probably and inch and a half long. It is installed so that the bolt head is on that narrow side instead of the nut. So if you remove the nut, I see no way on earth the bolt could slide out in the space available. I'm pretty sure that is what they are talking about.

sailorben

Yidney, I know exactly the bolt you are talking about! I had exactly the same conundrum when saw it too, how the heck would that come off if I needed it to....

Kustom1911

Yidney, there is 2 ways of changing the rear strut. Both are a pita the initial time. the MB way is to drop the rear axle & complete rear cradle. the other way is remove the rear fender liners, remove the nut, drive the bolt inward till it contacts the body, cut the bolt as close to cradle mount as possible, repeat again. have to cut the bolt twice (depending on the style of die grinder), easier with the wheel bearing carrier and other rear suspension arms removed.

New bolt is installed from the outside as it should have been. I wonder if engineers ears ever ring?

Rudeney

Guys, I don't understand this problem with the bolt. I all four front control arms on my CLK and no issues getting the bolts out. I really don't remember any trouble with it. I think I had to bend a heat shield and that was it.

Yidney

Not front, Rodney. Rear "controls arms." I call them all control arms back there because they seem to have about 80 different names. The upper one - towards the front.

Rudeney

Ah! That's right - I forgot it was the rear!

Paulers

Thanks for this info Kustom. Yidney I am glad that your accident was not worse - I have not been on the forum for a while and just read about this. I need to change the rear subframe from a similar (but worse) hit that turned my wifes old car into my frankenstein project.