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CLK55 AMG, CLK63 AMG (W208, W209) Discuss the past, present and future CLK55 AMG and the CLK63 AMG.

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Old 12-13-2008, 08:50 PM   #1
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02 Clk55 air filter

Ok I checked the air filter for the first time on my Clk55. Removing it was a snap except for the many screws. Now my car has 43xxx miles and it seems its the original filter! It says AMG Mann. Damn it was dirty! I put the new OEM Mann filter. Also I removed the screen on the air box opening going into the MAF. The MAF sensor also has two screens. Didnt touch those. Why so many screens? No wonder it was slowing me down!
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:42 PM   #2
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They regulate air velocity and direction into the Mass Air Flow sensor.

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Old 12-15-2008, 06:06 PM   #3
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If your air filter was neglected, I'd be worried about what other maintenance was overlooked.

Didn't you have a PPI done?
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Old 12-15-2008, 07:23 PM   #4
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If your air filter was neglected, I'd be worried about what other maintenance was overlooked.

Didn't you have a PPI done?
I bought the car when it had 36xxx miles the previous owner changed the oil every 3k miles with mobil 1. The serv manual says the air filter is good for 60k miles in normal conditions All the fluids are fine. What other service is required at 43xxx miles?
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OE-tuning-only tune stock filters,charcoals intact-11.9@118.5 best trap 119

Vbox-2.5 60ft 12.9@121.5 at 0%
93oct,tune only.

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Old 12-15-2008, 07:31 PM   #5
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Since the new filters and the screen. Seems the car spins more (ESP off)when I gun it in 2nd at 45mph
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02 CLK55-13.1@108.6 stock
95 C36 sold
09 C63-12.6@115 stock
OE-tuning-only tune stock filters,charcoals intact-11.9@118.5 best trap 119

Vbox-2.5 60ft 12.9@121.5 at 0%
93oct,tune only.

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Old 12-16-2008, 01:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jons95c36amg View Post
I bought the car when it had 36xxx miles the previous owner changed the oil every 3k miles with mobil 1. The serv manual says the air filter is good for 60k miles in normal conditions All the fluids are fine. What other service is required at 43xxx miles?


A lot of the maintenance is time or mileage. For example, the service manual says the air filters are good for 60K miles or 4 years. They were due two years ago. Aside from the A/B service, these should be done -
  • Every 2 years replace the brake fluid
  • Every 3 years replace the coolant.
  • Every 4 years or 50,000 miles check the condition of the flex discs.
  • Every 4 years or 50,000 miles retorque the steering gear bolts.
  • Every 4 years or 60,000 miles replace the fuel filter.
  • Every 4 years or 60,000 miles replace the air filter elements.
  • Every 4 years or 60,000 miles check the condition of the fuel filter nozzle seal in the filler neck.
  • Every 5 years or 100,000 miles replace the spark plugs
Everyone I know skips the sterring gear bolts, and that is the EASIEST service there is. It's a 15 minute job. Three minutes if the front wheel is already off.

Last edited by MarcusF; 12-16-2008 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:51 AM   #7
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Thanks Marcus for the excellent feedback.
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Old 12-16-2008, 05:54 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by MarcusF View Post
A lot of the maintenance is time or mileage. For example, the service manual says the air filters are good for 60K miles or 4 years. They were due two years ago. Aside from the A/B service, these should be done -
  • Every 2 years replace the brake fluid
  • Every 3 years replace the coolant.
  • Every 4 years or 50,000 miles check the condition of the flex discs.
  • Every 4 years or 50,000 miles retorque the steering gear bolts.
  • Every 4 years or 60,000 miles replace the fuel filter.
  • Every 4 years or 60,000 miles replace the air filter elements.
  • Every 4 years or 60,000 miles check the condition of the fuel filter nozzle seal in the filler neck.
  • Every 5 years or 100,000 miles replace the spark plugs
Everyone I know skips the sterring gear bolts, and that is the EASIEST service there is. It's a 15 minute job. Three minutes if the front wheel is already off.
Things like the filter just sitting doesnt go bad. The car was inspected early this year. Your saying if the car is over 4yrs old and has like 15k all of the above needs to be done? BS. Anyway at 50k I'm doing the tranny oil. The car runs like a champ.
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95 C36 sold
09 C63-12.6@115 stock
OE-tuning-only tune stock filters,charcoals intact-11.9@118.5 best trap 119

Vbox-2.5 60ft 12.9@121.5 at 0%
93oct,tune only.

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Old 12-17-2008, 01:12 AM   #9
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Things like the filter just sitting doesnt go bad. The car was inspected early this year. Your saying if the car is over 4yrs old and has like 15k all of the above needs to be done? BS. Anyway at 50k I'm doing the tranny oil. The car runs like a champ.
Hey man, Iím not looking to argue. Iím just answering the question you asked. If you donít think the air filter deteriorates, donít change it. Itís your car, do what you feel best. Maybe itís my fault you took it all wrong. Perhaps I should have been more explicit and said the mileage and time schedules I posted came from the 2002 service booklet that Mercedes Benz supplied when my car was new. Not a dealer doc, but the factory doc. Check out the docs that Mercedes-Benz shipped with your car. If you donít have one, the booklet is MB part number P-6515-8084-13. A new one retails for $3.50

As an ex-wrench, and having been an automotive technical writer for a number of magazines over the past 10+ years, "I feel" a little safer doing the maintenance. The fact that I like working on cars is an added bonus. But thatís me. I know guys that HATE working on cars. Weíre all a little different.




Regarding the items I listed they're all pretty inexpensive, but there are valid reasons for doing the maintenance:
  • The rubber seals on the edge of your air filters may never get old, harden, and stop sealing like they did when they were new, but Iíve personally seen where that was the case. You may want to check out the difference in flexibility between your new and old seals. A pair of Mann Air filters are under $40 and takes me about 20 minutes.
  • Iíve personally seen where the low mileage fuel filters were clogged. Ask any motorcycle rider, half filled fuel tanks will result in a sediment filled filter. Maybe yours wonít. A Bosch fuel filter is $35 and takes me about 25 minutes.
  • Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and begins absorbing moisture the second the seal on the bottle is broken. Old fluid, which contains a ton of water after a few years may not rot out your brake calipers, master cylinder, or your $1700 ABS pump, but $15ís worth of fluid and an hourís worth of my time means I donít have to worry about it.
  • Your cooling system may not rust out from old coolant, but other people have experienced different results.
  • Iíve personally seen stripped threads in aluminum heads that were caused by trying to remove old sparkplugs. Hopefully yours will be fine, but thatís the reason for the time schedule, to ensure you can safely remove the plugs. This is the most expensive part, and I only paid $7.50 a plug at the dealer service counter.
I hope this helps.
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:35 PM   #10
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damn good advice. i need to look into the time intervals on my car. it only has 30k on the clock but i bet i am getting close to some of the time intervals. thanks
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Old 12-17-2008, 05:26 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by MarcusF View Post
Hey man, Iím not looking to argue. Iím just answering the question you asked. If you donít think the air filter deteriorates, donít change it. Itís your car, do what you feel best. Maybe itís my fault you took it all wrong. Perhaps I should have been more explicit and said the mileage and time schedules I posted came from the 2002 service booklet that Mercedes Benz supplied when my car was new. Not a dealer doc, but the factory doc. Check out the docs that Mercedes-Benz shipped with your car. If you donít have one, the booklet is MB part number P-6515-8084-13. A new one retails for $3.50

As an ex-wrench, and having been an automotive technical writer for a number of magazines over the past 10+ years, "I feel" a little safer doing the maintenance. The fact that I like working on cars is an added bonus. But thatís me. I know guys that HATE working on cars. Weíre all a little different.




Regarding the items I listed they're all pretty inexpensive, but there are valid reasons for doing the maintenance:
  • The rubber seals on the edge of your air filters may never get old, harden, and stop sealing like they did when they were new, but Iíve personally seen where that was the case. You may want to check out the difference in flexibility between your new and old seals. A pair of Mann Air filters are under $40 and takes me about 20 minutes.
  • Iíve personally seen where the low mileage fuel filters were clogged. Ask any motorcycle rider, half filled fuel tanks will result in a sediment filled filter. Maybe yours wonít. A Bosch fuel filter is $35 and takes me about 25 minutes.
  • Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and begins absorbing moisture the second the seal on the bottle is broken. Old fluid, which contains a ton of water after a few years may not rot out your brake calipers, master cylinder, or your $1700 ABS pump, but $15ís worth of fluid and an hourís worth of my time means I donít have to worry about it.
  • Your cooling system may not rust out from old coolant, but other people have experienced different results.
  • Iíve personally seen stripped threads in aluminum heads that were caused by trying to remove old sparkplugs. Hopefully yours will be fine, but thatís the reason for the time schedule, to ensure you can safely remove the plugs. This is the most expensive part, and I only paid $7.50 a plug at the dealer service counter.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for the info!
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95 C36 sold
09 C63-12.6@115 stock
OE-tuning-only tune stock filters,charcoals intact-11.9@118.5 best trap 119

Vbox-2.5 60ft 12.9@121.5 at 0%
93oct,tune only.

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Old 03-15-2011, 11:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusF View Post
  • The rubber seals on the edge of your air filters may never get old, harden, and stop sealing like they did when they were new, but I’ve personally seen where that was the case. You may want to check out the difference in flexibility between your new and old seals. A pair of Mann Air filters are under $40 and takes me about 20 minutes.
  • I’ve personally seen where the low mileage fuel filters were clogged. Ask any motorcycle rider, half filled fuel tanks will result in a sediment filled filter. Maybe yours won’t. A Bosch fuel filter is $35 and takes me about 25 minutes.
What about the seal on the airbox itself? The seat is between airbox and MAF sensor. I am trying to locate the part number. I know that seal can get dried up.
Click the image to open in full size.

And which Bosch filter do you use for CLK55 W208?
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:09 AM   #13
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When changing the air filters, the MB maintenance manual states to lubricate the sealing ring of the air cleaner MAF opening with liquid lubricant. "Naphtolen H" is specified. A light film of 303 Aerospace Protectant will do. The MB part number for Naphtolen H is 0009890160, and it costs $65.

Bosch makes a cabin filter. Mann is the OEM for the engine air filter. Both Pelican Parts and Autohaus AZ carry those parts at reasonable prices.
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:40 AM   #14
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Have you used the Bosch fuel filter?
The OEM is Mann according to those two sites.
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:58 AM   #15
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why not put k&n filters in it? it'd probably breath alot better.
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:41 PM   #16
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why not put k&n filters in it? it'd probably breath alot better.
Not worth the oil contamination on the MAF for 1hp.
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OE-tuning-only tune stock filters,charcoals intact-11.9@118.5 best trap 119

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Old 03-16-2011, 07:42 PM   #17
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Yeah. And MAF is about $150+.
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Old 03-16-2011, 07:44 PM   #18
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Not worth the oil contamination on the MAF for 1hp.
is there more of a chance of getting contaminated than there is on my car?
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Old 03-17-2011, 03:23 PM   #19
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is there more of a chance of getting contaminated than there is on my car?
It's a concern of the system not the car. Too much oil on the filter will contaminate any maf in any car. Oiled filters are better left to Carb and speed density type setups.
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:20 PM   #20
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It's a concern of the system not the car. Too much oil on the filter will contaminate any maf in any car. Oiled filters are better left to Carb and speed density type setups.
I've had a K & N air filter on my 55 since it hit 25k. It now has 150k, still has the original MAF. I've had the filter out for cleaning and new oil 3 times.
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:49 PM   #21
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I'm running K&N's too now

I have had an oiled K&N in my 95 for over 140K with no problems, and I just put two in my CLK this weekend. I also run them on other MAF cars with no problems - do not over oil them, and let the oil wick around for a good hour before installation. I have not had any problems with a MAF because of oil, and I have been running MAF cars for years. The Bosch platinum wire units self clean at turn off by heating to about 1000 degrees for a second, and the nickel film units can become contaminated, but this is mostly from varnish from fuel backing up through the intake manifold. Either way, you can clean them with a good aerosol electronics cleaner. If you see a P0171 or 0174 code, you likely have a contaminated MAF, clean it and you should be good. I think a bigger concern is a lean condition caused by low fuel pressure or dirty injectors rather than oil from the filter. That's the only way I have ever killed a MAF - and it was on a 1K+HP car that I had a leaking regulator and a bad injector on.
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Old 04-12-2011, 05:43 PM   #22
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I've had a K & N air filter on my 55 since it hit 25k. It now has 150k, still has the original MAF. I've had the filter out for cleaning and new oil 3 times.
I think your missing the point here but good for you!
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