c_raw420

I drive a 2004 amg benz and have been driving it for weeks no problems, was running perfect yessterday. thought it was the battery and it wasnt, it turns over but will not fire and start. I have heard fuel pump and crank shaft position sensor? I have ordered a crankshaft position sensor, what else should I look into doing?

Darren_0203

I just replaced my fuel pump because of similar symptoms, $65 for a walbro shipped, my advice would be to check and see if the cars getting any fuel or spark at the engine and go back from there before actually purchasing anything.

HCUBED

The same thing happened to me, and it was the crank position sensor.

GatorMB

yep,
Crank sensor, throttle sensor and MAF are the major inputs.

Crank Sensor provides spark and fuel pump signal. The others might give some kind of spark intermittent though when failing.

Cheers

bzliteyear

+1 CPS for me also, very common on MBs.
PL

cindyclk

All above are common issues with our clks. Let's start at the beginning. Has it thrown any codes? Don't just start throwing money into it needlessly. All engines need fuel, air and spark to turn over. Is it getting gas to the rails? Check fuel pressure....no gas, no start. Get all OEM parts. Autohauz usually has the best prices. Bosch Fuel pump and filter around $250.

air...double check that you have no vacuum leaks. Be sure that your rear filter housing is securely inserted into the MAF housing. Seat the rear first and then lower the front onto the clips.

That leaves spark.

CPS symptoms usually show up bad only when hot. Saying that, CPS could be issue. It will effect the signals being sent to timing/plugs. Many times they will not throw codes. I have found them a ***** to get to w/o a long extension and 1/4 drive...not much room to maneuver.

...I would start with the codes first.

Khan 55

Hello folk of AMG CLK vehicles. Adding on to this post as I don't want to be creating a new one. So I have the same issue as OP. My wife was driving, just got on to the freeway and car stalled. I don't have star diagnostic tool but using dumb Icarsoft version 2. It throws no codes for engine ecu at all. There is also no engine lamp on the dash. I know when my O2 sensors come on and illuminate the check engine lamp, my Icarsoft reads the error for the sensor. So I am of the belief that my CPS is shot but before throwing money at the dealership for a new sensor, roughly $200 for me here in SA, I would like to conduct more test that concludes it is the damn CPS.
So no engine check lamp illuminated on dash. Battery is still fine, I have fuel at the rail. I didnt check spark yet which is dumb of me. The car can select all gears and does show on the dash as well. It just turns and turns over but nothing. One thing I have noticed is that when I turn the ignition on, the car sounds different when the SAM modules come on. Before the car would sound like, "it knows which position the engine is in to enable fire up." Now it sounds different as if it cant see where the engine position is and hence doesnt allow it to fire up. Anyone can assist with some test tips.
I am trying to find someone who has a STAR system that can come by and run the test for me but not winning as yet.
P.S my car is European market so RHD. I tried looking for the sensor and don't see it but I have seen photos of a LHD mentioning it should be on the driver side of US market. I have looked down that side where the battery is and don't see it. Unless I don't know what I am looking at but I have seen the plug looks similar to the plug on the MAF sensor that sits at the throttle. AM I right?
ANy assistance will be highly appreciated guys. Thanks in advance

cindyclk

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...-location.html

do a few more 208 searches...there are other DIY

If you don't have the tools and extensions listed in the above ...forget it...it's a PIA job even with them

GatorMB

Have you tested for spark n fuel?
Of spark ok test fuel pump n relay.

Khan 55

I have conducted this task yesterday. Thanks Cindy and Gator. So I had checked the fuel from the beginning and it was there. I didn't check spark because I was dumb. Maybe didn't have the right spanner and didn't want to break the ignition cable/chord anyway. I left the car to stand for some time, tried starting and nothing. So I tried again after 24 hours and nothing. Should have realised but I even told myself its not the CPS. I did have fuel at the Schroudder valve. Now its not there.
SO I changed the sensor on my RHD European spec W209 and shredded some skin as well as caused a pinch on my finger and blood clot trying to remove the sensor as the bolt hole didn't line up for the E8 torx bolt. Eventually got it right, connected up everything and still no firing up. I have found a lot of information on the other forum on how to test but if you, Gator or Cindy, know of anything I can check fuel related, please point it out and help me.
I have checked the fuses in the rear SAM and nothing blown. I need to find the relay as I don't know which one is responsible. Then I will test power supply at the pump itself and see if I get 12v on key on position 3.

GatorMB

Sounds like you are on the right track.
To test pump power- get a buddy wife or dog etc.
Have them turn the key to start position while you test with meter or lamp.
The pump energizes for a few seconds on start position.
ECU then takes over from CPS providing spark and continuous power in run position.
Good luck
The relay should be with rear fuse box.
Cheers

Khan 55

Do you know which colour is the one Gator? Thanks Sir. Will have my dear mother assist me again if my wife isn't available. Dont want me dogs near my car. Last time they ate my toyota's door panel up and the seat belt but I still love them.
Thanks for the responses as always.

cindyclk

I'm not telling you to get a new fuel pump...but I'll bet that it gets down to that...if you do replace it...mark all of the hoses before removing.

Khan 55

Thanks Cindy. I was cursing my poor MB2 Icarsoft tool mean while there was no engine codes available because the sensor was not the culprit. Anyway will do more test this weekend. I have looked at pump options and would be best to get me self a Walbro 255lph which I lready have but my brother used it in his toyota for 2 years before he removed it. So I will try and get another one as I have read MB prices of the original item are insane. Thanks for the tip on the hose Cindy. I will take photos and mark them as well.

Khan 55

Some feed back with regards to this topic and anyone who can chime in on my findings please. Cindy and Gator as well as anyone else.
SO I managed to find the tool locally before importing it off Ebay. I ensured my battery was recharged and displaying a healthy 12.90 or there about voltage. I get into the back area of my coupe as usual with this dreaded issue, tool in hand and undo the ring nut on the fuel pump and level gauge which is on the right side of the vehicle. To my surprise, the fuel level is like non existent or perhaps 2mm or less. Somehow my gauge on cluster indicates half tank. Odd enough. None the less, I checked the pump positive and negative with my multimetre and obtain the 12v at key on position where the pump is said to prime for 3 seconds or so. That means the pump is okay? I guess, however I cannot test the fuel line pressure as I don't have the correct adapter for my pressure gauge tool. None the less, I read some documents on the WIS which say to replace faulty fuel level sender and pump as a complete unit. Nobody sells the fuel level unit on its own either.
I am guessing that this fuel level unit has given an incorrect reading on the cluster and its for this reason that my car wont start as there is no fuel. I had fuel coming at the Schrader valve now and then which lead me to believe its not the pump then it is the pump. Now I see there is no fuel on this side so the bowl under the pump wont have any fuel to send to the engine in any case. I could be wrong.
I have not opened the fuel sender and pick up unit which I was going to do initially but read up more and found the pump is on the other side. My next test is to throw in some fuel under the pump side and see if the engine starts up.
I read on another forum that the tank feeds the engine from left to right side. So if my right side is empty it means the left side would be empty as well not so? I have also read that the level sensor gives the reading to the cluster for both sides of the tank as well.
Will be getting the replacement part as soon as I can. I am unsure of buying the agents one for $570 approximately or get a local store VDO unit for $500. The same store sells their own brand name which is from Germany and has the same p/n listing but for $170.

Any suggestions or comments on the above findings will be highly appreciated.
Regards Khan

Khan 55

So yesterday after a very long time I finally took out my Jerry can and bought some 95 Unleaded fuel. I threw in atleast 15 litres into the tank and turned the key praying. Thank the Lord it fired up. I switched it off after a minute of battery charging and then kept on switching on and off checking that it still fires up. Turns out it is the darn float level on my car which gave all this headache. Now with only 15 litres in, the cluster reads 3/4 tank. None the less will be getting the whole pump and float unit later on.
Thanks guys