Sync-ing an emergency key and elec issues
06-17-2015, 03:38 AM
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Sync-ing an emergency key and elec issues
OK so I spoke to my friend who's dad is a mech but not a Merc one. He told me for E classes and S classes they had the battery jumped with another battery (no car idling) just the battery onto the Merc for 3 hours with the key in the on position. He said the key then syncs and if I then try to unlock the door with the emergency key it shouldn't tell me on the DAS key not detected.
I have also heard that usually disconnecting a battery would reset things but is this the case on a Merc? This is a CLK55 AMG
I have just read up on battery issues after installation and people are saying tons of things. When I did my trade, in the electrical section we covered, the obvious and most important procedure to observe is disconnecting the - terminal followed by the + terminal and reconnecting is + then the - cable. Would this not then be applied to a Merc as well or is it different? What do I then do during a repair on a car? Can I not disconnect it and leave it for a day or two? When I conduct battery test checking the specific gravity of the battery, should I insert another battery in place of it and then resume?
My car has now done this electrical issue for the second time. When I insert the key, then turn to start it, the power trips or surges. Its like when you experience a power trip at the mains in your home. Everything goes out. So I turn it all the way back, remove key and then retry. The engine fires up. However yesterday it didn't. It tripped like 4 times before it eventually started. After it started, the time was wrong, and my wife couldn't set it because the navigation was unable to detect itself. The clock then starts to tick in reverse or anti-clockwise and then it turns all the way clockwise to the correct time then stops and now everything is back to normal. Is this due to a loose battery terminal or bad ground or battery or something else?
Will test the battery this afternoon.
I have also heard that usually disconnecting a battery would reset things but is this the case on a Merc? This is a CLK55 AMG
I have just read up on battery issues after installation and people are saying tons of things. When I did my trade, in the electrical section we covered, the obvious and most important procedure to observe is disconnecting the - terminal followed by the + terminal and reconnecting is + then the - cable. Would this not then be applied to a Merc as well or is it different? What do I then do during a repair on a car? Can I not disconnect it and leave it for a day or two? When I conduct battery test checking the specific gravity of the battery, should I insert another battery in place of it and then resume?
My car has now done this electrical issue for the second time. When I insert the key, then turn to start it, the power trips or surges. Its like when you experience a power trip at the mains in your home. Everything goes out. So I turn it all the way back, remove key and then retry. The engine fires up. However yesterday it didn't. It tripped like 4 times before it eventually started. After it started, the time was wrong, and my wife couldn't set it because the navigation was unable to detect itself. The clock then starts to tick in reverse or anti-clockwise and then it turns all the way clockwise to the correct time then stops and now everything is back to normal. Is this due to a loose battery terminal or bad ground or battery or something else?
Will test the battery this afternoon.
06-17-2015, 11:03 AM
#2
Super Member
When you remove the battery you have to reset various things...turn wheel all way left, all way right, center to reset ABS/ESP....windows and sunroof have be be reset and also memory of seats...saying that, I have been on this forum for 10 years and have never heard of syncing the key your way.
Is the key that you are using the factory key? It sounds like something in the computer has been screwed up with whatever key/procedure that you are using.
just my humble opinion.
Is the key that you are using the factory key? It sounds like something in the computer has been screwed up with whatever key/procedure that you are using.
just my humble opinion.
Reminds me of OVP (over voltage protection ) system on my W124
06-19-2015, 08:12 AM
#4
Super Member
Thread Starter
I have no idea. Will have to buy myself an on board diagnostics reader. It has a plug in the cubby holder for an I-Pod which my wife uses to play music off the auxiliary port now and then.
Cindy this is the metal slide as referred to by the dealership or emergency key as it is known as in the owners manual. Like I said, it worked the day we needed it to the most. Now it just doesn't open. I have to pop the trunk, unlock the rear seats and crawl in through the rear
military exercise for me 
anyway not for long. Have ordered me self a new key yesterday so will see after that's done if it will then recognise the manual key.
Cindy this is the metal slide as referred to by the dealership or emergency key as it is known as in the owners manual. Like I said, it worked the day we needed it to the most. Now it just doesn't open. I have to pop the trunk, unlock the rear seats and crawl in through the rear
military exercise for me anyway not for long. Have ordered me self a new key yesterday so will see after that's done if it will then recognise the manual key.
07-28-2015, 04:27 AM
#5
Super Member
Thread Starter
UPDATE* battery charges fine 14.10Volts. Disconnected it and read 12.67Volts. Reconnected afterward and started her up. Charged at 13.87 Volts without revving the engine.
I found the diagnostic port under the steering column so that's the next tool to get.
Now with regards to my key. I was given the new C class keys. The chrome outer shell with black inner with chrome star. Now the key works like its a keyless go entry key. It even started the car whilst in my pocket but that wont happen again I believe. But the doors will now open and the boot with the car locked whilst the key is in my pocket. So I guess their new key is actually a keyless go kind of key as its doing just that apart from the engine start up. So I am happy with the money spent on that. Sadly my emergency key was the incorrect one ordered for me so the salesman has to buy me a new one outta his own pocket
I found the diagnostic port under the steering column so that's the next tool to get.
Now with regards to my key. I was given the new C class keys. The chrome outer shell with black inner with chrome star. Now the key works like its a keyless go entry key. It even started the car whilst in my pocket but that wont happen again I believe. But the doors will now open and the boot with the car locked whilst the key is in my pocket. So I guess their new key is actually a keyless go kind of key as its doing just that apart from the engine start up. So I am happy with the money spent on that. Sadly my emergency key was the incorrect one ordered for me so the salesman has to buy me a new one outta his own pocket
09-25-2015, 01:17 AM
#6
Super Member
Thread Starter
So after buying myself a new key and for some reason or the other removed my battery. Everything is working fine now. In fact the new spec key, the chrome one with black centre works perfect. My signal now after removing the battery and refitting it works as far away as it can possibly. Another great thing is that the key is now working as a hands free entry key or keyless go key. So I think paying that $250 worked for me. 
