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If you are using a hand tool compressor (autozone rents out) be very careful and compress simultaneously. Never over compress one side. I prefer 5 turns per side at a time.
If you have an industrial stand up spring compressor you are in paradise as it will compress the spring equally and safely.
I've done this at least 5 times on my w203 and I'll be doing this tonight on my w209.
What type spring compressor do you have? Let me know and I will tell you what route is best.
sound like we are on the same boat... but i will take some time before my strut mounts arrive and study the proper spring removal procedure would you be kind enough to post pictures of the safe spring compressor tool?
also i notice that on the w209 theres no nut holding the strut? i only see a torx-socket do you compress the strut and turn the torx-socket to remove mount/spring?
You can either mount the strut top and turn the whole strut with the torx fitting OR you need to buy this to remove the collar inside the top of the strut top. I bought it last week. http://www.ebay.com/itm/361199412424?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Im thinking on going to a car alignment shop and ask them to let me use their industrial spring compressor tool...
Not a bad idea. Safer, faster and less struggle fighting with it.
Picture below is your typical Autozone rental. I still highly suggest you use the real deal. It will save you a lot of stress and trouble. All you need is another car.
You can either mount the strut top and turn the whole strut with the torx fitting OR you need to buy this to remove the collar inside the top of the strut top. I bought it last week.
If i turn the whole strut but turning the torx bit would it cause any harm my strut?
Im having doubts removing the strut mount from the strut..
I have an image attached to this post; is part #9 a nut? and when twisting the torx on #5 the mount comes off?
I need to confirm twisting the torx wont cause harm cause I don't want to mess up the hydraulics inside this brand new OEM strut..
hmmm.. that diagram doesn't show it. But there's a tiny nut at the top of part #9.
When you compress the spring it takes pressure off the nut and you can remove it with a tool like what TW2 posted.
I used a small flat screwdriver. Sorry I looked and don't have any pics of that part.
I don't really recommend the method I posted, I just saw it on a video. I would get the proper tool as posted. You can also use a screwdriver as ambit said but it will be difficult not to damage the nut/sleeve. You cannot see the nut/sleeve until you get the strut out of the car.
I haven't actually done it myself yet, still waiting on that socket to arrive. It should be flush with the strut top ie all you should be able to see is two small slits around the top where the tool I posted should fit in.
Yeah it doesn't look like a typical 6-sided 'nut'
Its round, about 1/2" wide. Its threaded about 1" down the top of the strut.
Has 2 notches on the top that the tool TW2 posted sit in. Once you have the strut out of the car you'll see it. If the strut is still in the car you can't see it.
Man! I had my struts and bearing swapped at my local indie and they smacked the f#ck out of the nut to get it out.
Now after installing them on my clk, i notice a small gap in between the nut/bracket under my cars bonnet.. Is this normal? If i jack the car up the gap goes away (kind of logical i know) cause of the weight of the suspension components but my concern is with the gap. Almost 2 to 3 millimiter gap.
Depends what you are looking for. You could ask your local MB dealer tech if that gives you piece of mind. It is mentioned as normal here at least a dozen times without anyone reporting a problem. Otherwise if you look at how the strut sits in the car you will see that the mount does not have to always sit flush with the top to work perfectly. It only stops the suspension from falling out of the car when the wheels are off the ground- either getting some air or jacking the car up. Even then I had to really pull it out to get the strut out.
Perhaps if the rubber insulation is worn out the strut can sit slightly higher than it should be able to?
Mine:
I replaced the strut bearing a few months ago. The top plate sits about 2mm above the chassis. Was like that before I did the work. My old CL203 was the same way too
TW2 that socket looks easy to make. Would have slight trouble making the opposite end for the spanner or crow foot if using a torque wrench to tighten. I made something similar for my Toyota sc12 and sc14 supercharger pulley nut from a socket. All I did was cut away what wasn't needed and filed away till it was perfect. Can you measure the inner gap/spacing for me from the one tooth to the other pls?
TW2 that socket looks easy to make. Would have slight trouble making the opposite end for the spanner or crow foot if using a torque wrench to tighten. I made something similar for my Toyota sc12 and sc14 supercharger pulley nut from a socket. All I did was cut away what wasn't needed and filed away till it was perfect. Can you measure the inner gap/spacing for me from the one tooth to the other pls?
Will do. Let me finish up bolting back the headlight and front bumper together onto the car and lower it so I can measure it with my caliper and tell you the numbers.. But I think its about 3mm or so. I posted on my headlight thread how I solved the issue.. pretty straight forward
08-14-2015, 04:18 PM
LOL on the hose clamps when you compress the spring whats the next step? I don't see the nut..
