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These dimensions are meant for general criteria only as my assembly might have been adjusted without recording the information.
Everyone's engine will be close but different as wear rates are derived from maintenance throughout the engines life.
The idea is to inform one that the stronger K connecting rods are interchangeable between NA engines.
Engine Parts:
Piston Rings 113 030 06 24 fits both engines
Rod Bearing K 113 030 01 60 Not available at this time
Rod Bearing NA 113 030 02 60 Limited Quantities at this time. Fits both engines
Rod Bushing K 112 038 02 50
Oil cooler adapter plate required to clear the thermostat housing. This is a good swap for those wishing to better the NA engine life. The plate bolts in place of the heat exchanger. 113 185 00 01 not confirmed but there is a new one from Germany floating on Ebay right now.
Not listed was a Heat exchanger and pump for the Supercharger
Gaskets, Seals, Fluids, bolts, screws, clamps and pipes that might not come with a used supercharger.
Engine building tools and assembly lubricants.
The Fever gets expensive
Thanks Gator appreciate your time and assistance. Any idea on what you paid for all 8 cylinders on those rings?
Is that your oil filter housing that's cracked? Sorry to hear bout that and thanks for the heads up on the correct size socket to use should any of us ever do the above.
I found an M156 last week at a salvage yard. Needs new coil or two and few odds and ends but yeah the owners said they want R85k which should be roughly $5700 US. Another place where I know the folks that work there sold one engine for roughly $4400 but from a CLK63. Thinking maybe in the future it could be an option for me but I like to restore things so this write up of yours will definitely be in my galleries on engine tuning and overhauling.
Hi Khan,
I saved roughly 25% on the rings. A K shortblock would be the way to go.
The M156 sounds like a fair price. never considered this swap in a W208 might be a chassis conflict.
I cant wait to see what can be gained in the newer twin cam V8 that is aging gracefully right now.
Splendid info there Sir. Always appreciate your response. I dont know where will I get replacement parts for the engine except agents or imports and currency not in favour. But will just ensure timeously maintenance so I never have to run into that issue. Let us know how it runs once everything is sorted out unless it isnt already. Pls put up a video of the in car run with the new engine. Would like to see how it pulls on the speedo and smooth revving of the engine if possible. Thanks Gator
I installed a new oil filter housing today from FCPEuro and now back to Daily driver.
For those that perform their own maintenance interested in preserving the life of the engine: pour the oil into the oil filter housing and prior to starting remove the fuel pump relay and cycle the start. It will not run but prime the engine. Pre lube is real important after engine repairs and helps while servicing. A good idea if the car goes into storage as well.
I will be updating this thread in the spring when it comes time for the actual supercharger install, unless there are questions.
Sourced a trans dipstick tube and waiting on #10 AN fittings for oil cooler retrofit.
Gator, which is that fuel pump relay? Any idea on the W209 models as well? I always thought of something like that since I looked at the WIS documents on compression test.
This is the idea I was trying to get across. Not required for an oil change but if you do major surgery in the lubrication system be prepared and cautious.
seems legit for $200 to $220. We do a similar thing here where I work but the much bigger diesel engines have pre-lubers that are built in to the starters and this aids the engine in pressurizing the oil system to roughly the same Psi as mentioned there. About 40 to 50 Psi.
If I had a warehouse full of collector cars or built engines all day for a living, The price is fair.
Diesel engines are the most abusive for service wear. High compression and heat so when the oil galleries are empty bad things happen fast. I am a fan of the Benz 603,606.
It is time to update this thread as spring is here and the birds are singing.
I retro fitted the heat ex-changer today. It was a tight fit in the W208 but a noteworthy accomplishment.
I used a piece of 1" flat stock available at the local hardware to fab brackets out of.
A vice and bench grinder helps make it pretty
It was a tight fit but worth the effort
Bottom view of custom brackets
Top View and placement area
Another angle from the top
Next is oil cooler mounting and opening up the shroud a bit on the electric cooling fan to accept more air.
Programming began yesterday. I started with a DAQ or program that collects data.
It is necessary to provide output to Boost bypass valve. I used a non available controller for this so it will never be on a network. My final results will be completed on a public open source PIC controller. Very powerful but open sourced for all to modify.
Anyone doing any kind of mods on any engine should have a Wide Band Input gauge. Many of us enjoy driving European Sports oriented vehicles. This gauge when installed and understood will protect your investment.
Best Bang for the Buck. similar models from others work just as well.
If your not good at soldering or wiring get a pro to help. Protect your investment.
I used a short run 8 conductor for this gauge and MAF Data acquisition. The final cable on the bypass valve and new MAF will be a Belden Shielded Robotics.
It was suitable for the gauges for real control get the best.
Found a real nice location in the drivers wheel well for 10 row oil cooler only my wheel well plastics are shot out from previous owners parking block incidents. Any one have these lying about chime in.
Extra fans will be required for heat Ex changer and oil cooler especially when wheel well plastics are protecting them from road debris. Louvers and ducts will help. Not much room to work with under there and parking blocks will get real price when you least expect it.
Cheers Gator
Last edited by GatorMB; 05-17-2017 at 11:01 AM.
Reason: it is a 10 row not 15 row cooler
I installed the oil cooler today and went a finer route.
Instead of undercar mount I mounted it in the engine bay. There was ample room on the passenger side and this keeps the cooler away from parking blocks, Transfer heat from heat exchanger, radiator and AC condenser.
It is a larger than normal cooler with 10 row and #10 AN fittings.
The mounting brackets are part of one of the fluid coils so I wanted some extra protection for the tanks.
I fabbed some insulators out of UHMW poly it is used on conveyor systems.
Next will be fresh ambient air from the grill. I will use the hole that used to house fresh air into the AMG Fresh Air Box.
If rotated left 90^ this is the fresh air hole bypassing heat from other sources. there is a duct that can channel air right into the cooler.
The final install of the cooler will come with one upper bracket support attaching near the coolant reservoir. Plumbing and a fan will be added as well.
I still have to mount the heat exchanger pump and preferred to keep it low and prevent air cavitation. We can run with out coolant in the heat exchanger but if the oil cooler takes a hit from road debris it is tow truck time.
Plumbing next and some air duct shroud to force the air from the air box hole into the cooler.
The remaining mounting holes in the photo will help to mount a make up shroud.
Anyone doing any kind of mods on any engine should have a Wide Band Input gauge. Many of us enjoy driving European Sports oriented vehicles. This gauge when installed and understood will protect your investment.
Best Bang for the Buck. similar models from others work just as well.
If your not good at soldering or wiring get a pro to help. Protect your investment.
[/I]
I asked this Q about wide band vs narrow band gauges on w202 AMG, but never got any good replies.
The wide band sensors are they only suitable for heavily tuned cars with massive turbos or super chargers?
those who did the engine swap from 4.3L to 5.4L on their C43's, do you think an AFR narrow band gauge is a good thing to buy and install on engine swapped cars monitoring AFR?
how much das it differ between narrow band vs wide band sensors monitoring numbers?
I've seen gauges on Fleabay where the narrow band has less wire loom connected to the car where the wide band has more loom which has to be connected to the car.
which one is the better one to buy, narrow or wide band gauge for a small tweak like an engine swap like many forum members did?
numbers reading you've got in the pic 14.8 is that rich, normal or lean numbers?
did you have to route the cable directly to your oxygen sensor under the car?
thanks
Last edited by KJI3jflarryfe93; 05-15-2017 at 02:54 PM.
14 is in the norm of a cold start engine which is what we are viewing here.
When tuning we are looking for peak HP/tourqe range that coincides with the fuel map.
The gauge is an external component to observe the fuel map within the RPM range of the engines use. I am in for some hard core tweaking soon and want my baseline established from where I stand.
If you are tuning and performing modifications to fuel system and exhaust system then this is for you.
I will soon be modifying injectors, Boost on a compression engine and even more exhaust if necessary. Mostly clean up and cosmetics on the exhaust.
A C43 swapped over to a 5.4 should work fine with the 5.4 ECU or at least a tune I would think.
The most power achieved fro the M113 5.4 has been by opening up the exhaust system.
Never heard of a narrow band gauge but who knows.
A narrowband doesn't really give you an exact value. It basically just tells you lean/stoic/rich, which is basically pointless. So no, if you want to do any sort of tuning you need a wideband.
14 is in the norm of a cold start engine which is what we are viewing here.
When tuning we are looking for peak HP/tourqe range that coincides with the fuel map.
The gauge is an external component to observe the fuel map within the RPM range of the engines use. I am in for some hard core tweaking soon and want my baseline established from where I stand.
If you are tuning and performing modifications to fuel system and exhaust system then this is for you.
I will soon be modifying injectors, Boost on a compression engine and even more exhaust if necessary. Mostly clean up and cosmetics on the exhaust.
A C43 swapped over to a 5.4 should work fine with the 5.4 ECU or at least a tune I would think.
The most power achieved fro the M113 5.4 has been by opening up the exhaust system.
Never heard of a narrow band gauge but who knows.
Hope this helps a bit bro.
Mahalo for the info bro
Most guys who did the engine swap stick with C43 ECU but others had the ECU tweaked with E55 software
Originally Posted by megacrazy
A narrowband doesn't really give you an exact value. It basically just tells you lean/stoic/rich, which is basically pointless. So no, if you want to do any sort of tuning you need a wideband.
Also, how did I miss this tread ...watching now.
Mahalo bro.
I found these AFR gauges on Fleabay.
If doing the engine swap, wudd it be a good idea to buy such gauge to monitor AFR if sticking with the stock C43 ECU?
Hello Gator. Great info and mods to accommodate your new engine. I don't know how to tune but want to learn as we changed the engine in my brother's car and now need the fueling to be increased on the pressure side as the injectors have already been done, May need a pump or two as well as an aftermarket fpr for our project. So you say 14 is the desirable number on any petrol 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine on cold start? And Wideband is the way to go. Guess I will be doing some research on that topic.
the bracket made from 1" flat stock and maintains stable mounting
Completed cooler minus some fresh air ductwork.
Ferrari took 1st and 2nd in the Formula 1 series today. Hamilton did not qualify well but gained several spots through the day. Sumoto won Indy and some Hondas siezed engines. (oh Well).
Next is a custom upper radiator hose, HE pump mount, to be continued. after that I have no more excuses unless the trans dipstick tube needs tweaking. (not a problem)
Hello Gator. Great info and mods to accommodate your new engine. I don't know how to tune but want to learn as we changed the engine in my brother's car and now need the fueling to be increased on the pressure side as the injectors have already been done, May need a pump or two as well as an aftermarket fpr for our project. So you say 14 is the desirable number on any petrol 4, 6 or 8 cylinder engine on cold start? And Wideband is the way to go. Guess I will be doing some research on that topic.
Hi Kahn,
I will likely start a new thread once tuning begins to keep all this install and fabrication out of the mix. Glad to see you are in to modification and we learn a lot in these forums. Many gained experience is learned from failure and I am sure blackbenzz can back me up on this.
I am not going to grenade my engine to learn though so easy does it so to speak.
Lets be patient and Benz along.
Here is what it takes to fit the M113 K thermostat housing into a CLK.
I am lucky to have trust in the folks at my local Advanced auto parts house because they let me pillage through the molded hoses behind the scenes. It took me around three trips on my way home from work etc.. but it paid off.
This is the final upper hose.
I cut the NA upper hose right at the T and picked up a temp sensor splice 40mm from amazon.
trial fit needed some minimal trimming to reduce the fold all is perfect now.
Here is the part number I used to fit the M113k t-stat housing to W208.
Easy peasy this thread will conclude soon with the supercharger installed summer end hopefully completing programming and testing to come in a experimental tuning thread.
Looks just as tight as the W209 with a M113K in it, great work. I don't know if the engine sits slightly forward or if it is entirely due to the extra layer of pulleys and belts but it is tight.
I have done the same thing in the past, rummaging through all the molded hoses trying to get something for a particular project. I look forward to watching you attempt to get some traction when this is done!
01-08-2017, 12:38 PM
...watching now.
