daughtrey

Hi, so I have a 2000 ML320 and all of a sudden the passenger door lock pops up and down 3 or so times and then doesn't lock when I lock the doors electronically with the key. If I open the door that's unlocked after I press the lock button, the alarm goes off so that part is working fine.

I've read that the door lock actuator needs to be replaced and I have two questions:

1) Do you find this is the issue?

2) Is this something I can do myself? I'm pretty handy.

I thank everyone in advance about this. I really look forward to hearing some expert responses.

P.S. I'm brand new to the forum.

CALVM

Hi: I have a 2000 ML320 and I had the same problem. I was able to DIY and if you search this site "ML320 Machine Gun Locks" you should see some posts with pictures. Got the lock from the dealer with some plastic push pins (you'll break some taking off the door panel) and it's a "5" on scale of 10 concerning difficulty.
Follow this link:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...r-machine.html

lkchris

Your vehicle is a W163 and lots of answers in that subforum.

You're currently in a subforum for feedback on the forum.

tanman430

WHO:

-I'm sure you've already fixed this problem so my reply is for those who are here for the same actuator issues...


WHAT:

If your locks are locking "up and down" rapidly (3 times) like a machine gun!!!!!! and 1 of your door doesn't lock, it is high likely the actuator of the door which doesn't lock is broken due to a cheap plastic tappet-plate inside your actuator.


WHY:

Your actuator only has 3 major components inside: 1 cheap plastic gear that spins due to a micro motor, and 1 cheap plastic tappet plate, the rest are 2 push on and off button that sends electrical signal to your vehicle's computer detecting/ producing reactions to validate whether or not all the electrical circuits are systematically operating. Why Benz decided to make them with cheap plastic components? the same reason why your sunroof is made with cheap plastic clips that supports the metal fulcrum holding your sunroof wind diffuser in place! The ML's are solidly made that there has to be another way for your dealership to make money right! wink!!

***If Mercedes care they will replace the sunroof clips with an tampered galvanized aluminum clip, and replace that cheap plastic actuator gear and tappet plate with a simple cast steel metal.


WHEN:

So... the cheap plastic tappet plate is broken, and the cheap plastic gear still spins around producing that loose tapping sound... meanwhile your computers electrical component is not receiving any signal from your actuator so it constantly tries to lock all the other doors in design to probability the teeth are just not getting caught up in place producing the "machine gun noise" but eventually all your locks will lock! except for the one with the broken actuator. Here's the funny/ annoying part... Your Vehicle will try to lock on it's own everytime you go over the speed limit of 9/mph. The cycle starts again!

WHERE:

Things to know -
1.) You don't need to unplug your car battery but your window should be placed all the way up!
2.) You do not need to take your SRS side airbag out
3.) You do not need to take any rivets out

Tools your life depends on -
1.) Philip and flat head screwdrivers
2.) T-27 to remove the door handle bolt inside the door through a tiny hole on the edge of the door
3.) T-30 to remove the 2 diagonal bolts holding the entire door latch

WHAT TO BUY:
1.) TITAN 13pc xtra long arm torx key set -Tamper Proof (http://www.ecomelectronics.com/prodi...=761207&ref=CJ or any Northern Tool Supply where I purchased mine). "It's best to buy the entire set.." TRUST ME!!!
2.) Screw Driver Philip and Flat head (Sear's should have it)
3.) New Door Latch with Actuator (dealership cost: $225 + Tax, genuine oem Mercedes part sold from Internet shop $175 free shipping!)


STEPS!

The first step is the most crucial and extremely important part to solving your actuator issue. Don't forget to practice "material discipline" - today is the day!!!

1.) You must locate your vehicle! then locate which door has the broken actuator.

2.) With your Philips screwdriver, unscrew 2 bolts located inside your door handle (use a flat head but place a thick towel in between the tool and door handle while you pry, this will prevent you from scratching and denting your panel). Then unscrew the last bolt located inside the "SRS plastic logo" cap at your side airbag location

3.) Pry off 6 push-in pins that is holding your door panel in place (use the towel to prevent scratching your paint) ** Don't worry you'll be fine!!!

4.) Detach the light wire plug located underneath your lower door lamp

5.) Unhook 2 wires: 1 hooking the door handle! 1 the actual door lock. Then locate and unplug your car speaker! (It's the round thing on your door)

6.) Roll up your window all the way!

THE PARTY BEGINS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

7.) Locate the hole (the size of an pencil eraser) at the edge of your door. "it is hidden underneath the rubber drain seal that prevents water from coming in the edge of your door, directly lined with your door handle from outside! Use your Titan Torx "T27" and unscrew the bolt directly leveled with the entrance cavity but "do not" unscrew it all the way, you just need to loosen the grip that is holding the plastic door handle cap outside. This is the "only" way to take your entire door handle out correctly!

REMOVING THE OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE

8.) Pull the tip corner plastic cap out off your door handle. - Then slide the rest of the entire door handle backward towards the back of your car... That's how you take the entire door handle out!

9.) Once the handle is off, you will immediately see 2 bolts... go ahead and loosen these bolts but do not unbolt them all the way out (just enough for them to slide off later)

10.) Peel out the "Noise Protection Foam Cover" off your door panel by simply peeling it off... Don't worry! The thick rubber substance that binds the foam with your door easily bonds back into place once pushed back in... So no need to purchase new rubber bonds.

11.) Release your entire door latch (two diagonal torx bolt) on the side of your door that is holding the Actuator inside by using Torx T-30 .

12.) This gets tricky!! Place your arm inside the Door and grab the "window guide"(feels like a hard plastic rubberize bar) then pull it forward towards the front of the vehicle slowly... 4 inches max!!! This process allows you to simply slide the old actuator off and slide the new actuator back onto place without having to remove the unit out! NOTE*** This process bends your window guide so it is important to bend it back into place before you put the panel back on! You can test if your window functions properly by moving it up and down after you are done placing the new actuator into place. It might go down slowly at first but eventually it will move back into place... just make sure your entire window goes "down" all the way!

13.) Slide the rest of the door handle inside your Door and pull it out from the other side! (remember to only loosen these screws and never fully unscrew them out of the handle).

14.) Pull out your "broken" Door Lock Latch/ Actuator out, then simply place your new Door Lock Latch/ Actuator into place!

15.) Reverse the Process and you're all set!!!

YOU DON'T THINK I MADE IT THAT EASY FOR YOU, DID YOU?

16.) Place your "TOOLS" back into its' proper place!

Racerx18691

Can you please tell me if it is the same problem on a 2001 ML430? How do I know which actuator it is? It started with the right front passenger door lock but affects all locks now. I also have a problem with the sunroof. I opened the sunroof, then tried to close it but it only went halfway. I know the motor works but what would cause it to close only halfway? Thank you.

tanman430

My SUV is also an 2001 ML 430. which ever "lock" is not locking down - means it has a bad actuator! The motor still works but the plastic tappet plate inside your actuator is likely the broken problem... and there is no way to simply fix the tappet plate without having to purchase a whole new actuator. Trust me I tried!! However, if you follow the steps I posted on here you will be fine. It's actually fairly easy to do, just requires good attitude. As for your sunroof issue, check the two metal rods that's pushes the wind deflector down when the sun roof slides forward... if your plastic clips broke, then the metal rod is likely preventing your sunroof to close all the way! ... I actually built my own galvanized metal clips for my sunroof. Now it should last longer than my car!

Racerx18691

Can the bad actuator affect all of the door locks? Thank you for your help.

tanman430

Each actuator sends out a signal to your computer... so you could have more than 1 actuator issue. However if some of your door locks to it's propper placement then it's obvious the actuator on that door isn't broken... just on the ones that "DOESN'T" lock down. Now if all of your doors aren't locking it's likely your fuse is busted... you can perform this by trying to open your car with your remote (just make sure your remote battery is good as well).. If not even a single noise drop, it's your fuse!

ndgmendoza

My issue is the left rear dock lock which actually locks after making the machine gun sound. Do I still need to get the actuator replaced?

mrgeemoney

I have a 2009 ML 350 and my passenger door lock stopped working. I have to lock it manually. I was wondering if its the Door lock latch actuator that need replacing. I never had the machine gun sound or effect happen to the lock so I was wondering if it was a fuse or something else.

tanman430

W163 door actuators are straight connection! If your door makes machine gun sound but eventually locks on , then it implies the plastic gear inside your actuator box has a missing teeth and it catches on a bit longer! That's considering all the other doors lock with no issues!!

tanman430

Sorry but our vehicle model is an 1998 - 2006 ml w163 and our particular models are a single piece connection and its impossible for us to lock our cars EVEN manually if our actuator is broken!!

Tips:

If its only 1 door not locking it's not the fuse!
If you use your car remote and it locks & unlocks the rest of the doors, it's not your battery!
If your passenger door locks automatically but you have to unlock it manually then the problem is mechanical and is extremely likely your gears
If your passenger door doesn't lock & unlock automatically then your problem are either:
electrical connection: plugs and/or wire not connected, or
mechanical connection: a cut, unhooked wire due to over bending from a thief

beartracker21

Hi Tanman, sorry to maybe beat a dead horse here, but my symptoms seems a little different. I have a hunch its the same root problem, but in my 98 ml320 when I activate the electronic switch in the console to unlock the doors, they unlock then immediately lock again, including the lift gate. They do not "shotgun" 3 times like the other posts have said, but just up and down once. In this the rf door lock doesn't move, so I am assuming that actuator is bad...does this sound right?

tanman430

Yes! Replace the door actuator thats' stalemate! Its not shutgun but "machine gun" noise.. Im not going to those details cause your case is different.... Nevertheless, you do need to replace your fr door actuator! Also never lock your doors if the doors aren't fully closed all the way! Thats what happened with yours says the dead horse your beating!!

beartracker21

Thanks for the info... I know of a 98 being parted out and will grab the goodies from that one... thanks again.

motl4902

Not sure if its been covered but BEFORE buying the replacement actuator assembly for the door or cracking open the gear and motor case, here is another failure point to check. I removed my assembly from the driver rear door and found that the plastic pivot connection where the cable from the manual lock button attaches was seized from a collection of desert dust and grease. Hit it with some brake clean and a brush, lubed it with some white grease and it works now. Since I had already cracked open motor and gear housing, I duct taped that back together and the assembly now works again.

as1981

I have a 2009 ml 350. The back passenger won't lock automatically. I can push it down manually. I will sometimes unlock if I try pushing the unlock button enough times. I can hear the motor running. Is the actuator or is something just unplugged? No machine gun noise. Thanks

John&Joy~MLrs

No central lock by key Blade, (Key Buttons do not sync, have tried 'resync'. Key transmits as I can hear on FM radio)
Problem:- cannot "central lock" with key, Key Unlocks all doors but won't lock ? Console central lock bounces door locks up&down if drivers door open, (we can lock by closing front doors, climb in rear side door & press console central lock button, all doors lock & I get out rear side door> lock car OK.
Is there a fault or Is it Impossible to "Key lock" without "Key" central locking working ??
Am I fixing what is not broken ?
I have door apart & all seems OK (Not stripped lock yet)
All door latches OK as lights come on as any opened & go off when closed proving the switches are OK in mech,
The doors all unlock with key on either side lock, But I Cannot lock with keyblade on either side !!?

I need to lock with the Keyblade
Can anybody Help ??

Thank you
John & Joy