germanbuiltftw

Hi All,

I just wanted to start by saying I do not own a Mercedes YET. I am currently looking in to purchasing a 2007 - 2008 R320 CDI with 182XXXkm's. As a previous German diesel owner, I know that their engines last FOREVER. I currently drive a Passat 2.0T gas, however my family drives a Ford Excursion 6.0L powerstroke diesel and that has lasted quite sometime giving us a few issues here and there.

All European built vehicles, come with known issues consistent through the line up, whether it be engine components or even interior problems.

Are CDI's and Bluetech engines victim to known detrimental or small issues that may have me thinking going in another direction?

Thanks in advance for your input!

Plutoe

If it were my decision, I would not purchase a Bluetech, just too many devices installed to meet EURO/EPA.

I also believe the increased mileage if any does not pay for the premium.

Give me the ole I6 CDI any day

ImInPA

Speaking from my personal experience, I have not encountered any issues at all with either my E350 Bluetec or S350 Bluetec. It is a fantastic power plant. I do miss the I6 diesels, but, more for nostalgia than any practical reason. It is true that the older ones required less pollution control devices, but, they would be so equipped today. I would, without hesitation, recommend a Bluetec diesel to anyone.

kurtismayfield

+1






But they are not so equipped today, which is even better! The premium price when new was $1000 for the '05-06's. That along with the significantly better mileage, lack of DPF, and a truly outstanding rock solid transmission that does not hunt should point you in the direction of an '05-06 CDI.


Cheers

houseofdiesel

The current diesels are NOT what you are used to...they are very complicated, hard to source parts for (outside of the dealer), hard to properly diagnose without randomly repacing parts (just ask around, lots of people have replaced things with no results!). I have 175kms on our R320, love it. However everytime it sits any length of time it throws faults that are never justified, just have to clean sensors and reset. They are strange beasts sometimes and going to the dealer each time would bankrupt anyone as they have no interest in fixing stuff/preventative maintenace, just replacing parts.
The OM642 has known oil leak issues, from the crankcase breather system (easy fix but constant problem) and oil cooler (20 hours to fix, plus $1500 in parts +++). It also is equipped with a huge amount of sensors that can mislead the engine at times. Look out for carboned up/seized glow plugs, unservicable fuel system (replace, not rebuild fuel injectors $800 each), serpentine belt tensioner (belt shaking?), lots to go wrong.
I have a serious background with owning and repairing diesels, love this vehicle but I am able and willing to fix it as it does everything I need, tows, hauls lots of family around, 4matic, turbo diesel, 40mpg is possible with small tires/watching your driving habits. It starts REALLY well in the winter, -30 all day at the ski hill and purrs on start up absolutely NO misfires, it is loud but smooth. I run the best fuel possible and lots of anti-gel/conditioners.
I would never recommend this complicated a vehicle to anyone unless they were really well educated with the costs and issues, this goes for any German SUV no matter the engine, this stuff is really complicated and costly to fix. I worked on em all in a specialist shop, bought the R because it fit my needs the best and has the "most simple" front end design (meaning least expensive balljoint replacement etc) as I drive some really horrible roads with it.
R class unique problems include uneven tire wear/noise even when aligned, air suspension air springs/pump, tailgate issues with latch/power operation, steering rack leaks, transmission issues (mostly related to drivers expectations, very poorly designed/programmed, slow shifts and clunks, sometimes outright failures that require a valve body replacement and dealer coding).
Getting one under warranty does not solve the issues, it just means someone else pays for it, but the inconvience of taking the vehicle in often will still remain! The later models were better, most of the CDI quirks were solved by 2010 with the engine/transmission it would seem, however air suspension will never be fixed the rubber will always fail after X number of years.
If you want to remain in love with diesels stick with a Passat wagon TDI (2004-5), or a older E class CDI (2005-6), or older but spend lots taking care of it constantly (it is worth it!). The new stuff just isn't worth the expense, the fuel economy has not changed in years, the reliability has gotten much worse.

kurtismayfield

houseofdiesel,


Sorry to read all the problems you have encountered but that does seem to be the nature of the post face-lift beast.


My 2006 has never thrown a code, starts at -31 F the same way it does at 75 F. Brakes are original at 64,000 miles. The only parts I have had to replace because of failure were the thermostat and the 13 pin Connector Bushing for the transmission.


All other costs have been routine maintenance. It's a wonderful vehicle and I would encourage anyone considering a diesel to consider a 2005-06 E320 CDI.


I do have a good 'indy' mechanic available for the things I don't do. The IL-6 is very easy to get around compared to 642.


kurtis

houseofdiesel

I agree, the E320 was a nice vehicle but very expensive at the time when new and as a result very rare. The SUV's were cheaper then the E class, so more sold. I have serviced a couple of of the inline 6 cdi's, beautiful vehicles that are downright scary fast, fun to romp around in and few if any issues, mostly squeaky suspension that was hard to track down (sway bar link I think in the end).
Again, I love my R, but would never ever have another family member or friend in one, just too complicated and inconvient to bring in to the dealer everytime a light is on (we are rural) and only if they were mechanically inclined would I ever think of suggesting it.

Green E-300 DT

As usual, I could not be more in agreement.

Having traveled almost 50K miles since December 2011, I could not be happier.
Being a certified 'car nut' and as you might imagine, I've owned many vehicles over
the last 65 years, and I can say without qualification, this old used 2005 E-320 CDI
is the best of all of them. At approximately 157K miles now, it simply keeps on
ticking and shows no signs of quitting.

Those of us who own one know how quick and economical they are and what a
pleasure they are to own.

Perhaps a used 2005-2006 E-320 CDI is not the best choice for everyone,
but for me it most surely is.

Also, I do as much of the minor repairs and maintenance as possible.
This includes replacing glow plugs when a code is set and removing the injectors
to replace the small copper washer when the dreaded 'black death' occurs.
And that does happen! I have replaced all of mine.
Also, the thermostats do fail but that is an easy job also.

I paid to have my water pump replaced but bought the parts and got by for only $400.
I think that job would be over $1000 is someone were to simply drive to a
dealership and tell them to replace it.

These are fine machines, but not for everyone. It does help and save to
be a little bit mechanical yourself or else have rather deep pockets.
Being an old duffer, I can still do some work on ours myself.



Derrel

Green E-300 DT

Speaking of buying a good used W-211 2005-2006 CDI, I just now checked Autotrader.
There are 81 listed throughout the country with the
Highest Price: $22,995
Lowest Price: $9,590
Average Price: $15,618

Seems like prices are down somewhat from what I paid locally for mine in December 2011.
Felt I got a good one then for only $17,800 when the average was well over $20k.

Of course, one will most likely not find one like the example Kurtis found.
Those examples if available would still be at least $25K.

One should not be afraid of these 05-06 W-211 CDIs regardless of their odometer readings.
Certain parts of course will sooner or later need replacement.
Thermostats, glow plugs and the copper washers that seal the injectors
(the dreaded 'Black Death'!) and of course the water pump.
But if you are at all mechanically inclined, most of those will not be a problem.

A better car than the new '14 250 BT for $40K less!
Faster and quicker and better riding for much less money.
With No Add Blue Fluid required and no DPF either.
No Run Flat tires or 17 inch or 18 inch wheels, and a proper
floor shift lever on the counsel.

Read the March issue of Consumer Reports. See page 55.
With only a four cylinder 2.1 liter engine and weighing 4345 pounds
and having all wheel drive, they simply can not and do not run like
the eight or nine year old six cylinder I-6 CDIs do!

Yes, the new 2014 does get slightly better F E but not by very much.
When those who have them try to get near the performance from their '14 BT like
I get with very little effort from mine, their fuel economy will be little if any better.

Test drive a good 05 or 06 CDI before you test a new 2014 BT
and you will see what I mean. Good luck and good hunting.



Derrel

efzauner

hey House of Diesel!
Long time no chat!
I just purchased my 2008 R320CDI at the end of my lease. I can't find anything else that comes close at the residual price, even at 170K Km on it. The front struts, rear bags, oil-cooler leaks and an injector and particulate filter where all replaced under warranty. The only thing that seems off is a slight hard 3-2 or 2-1 downshift at very low speeds and that darn loud engine noise when accelerating under low load or very hard. Highways speeds are still very quiet. Water pump may be going soon.


But I do agree with you, stuff like the rear hatch, even if already changed under warranty, is acting up again. The dealer says its the air strut at $200 to $300 each plus tons of labour. I will live with that problem. The intake/MAF manifold cracked at the turbo due to heat. I fixed it with fiberglass and epoxy, and found a replacement at a used parts dealer for future repair. I finally got the knack of changing those pesky air filters!
I just replaced the rear discs/pads. They where original. And I put 90Kkm on the fronts so far with many more to go. Lots of highway driving.


Love the car, love the handling, Love the Harman-Kardon sound system with my aftermarket subwoofer!


What could you suggest for the noise?
Diesel purge?
Injector cleaning?
Valve adjustments?
Ear plugs?
Anything else? A while back you suggested cetol booster but that did not do anything.


Enjoy the winter! My snows tires are on, Bring on January and February!


E