marc hanna

I would ask him to disconnect the crankcase breather from the intake and see if that solves the shut down issue.

chrisgt

Interesting, what's the crankcase breather have to do with it?

marc hanna

I'm not certain if those engines had one that vented into the intake or not, but oil vapours vented back into the intake can cause the engine to continue running after the fuel supply has been cut off. He should also check the oil level: overfilling, or fuel getting past the rings, might also cause this.

fireman1073

vacuum problem..look for leaks,bad check valve on pump,bad pump, trans issue is vacuum related and so is shutdown operated by vacuum

screen in the fuel tanks like to plug, you can swap the supply and return lines for diagnosing at the motor,fuel screen unscrews at the tank and can be cleaned but has a oring that you should replace

also fuel cap or tank vent blocked causing fuel starvation after driving for a while or a highway run when fuel demand increases

fireman1073

722.3 transmission can exhibit a slipping first gear but once in second gear and up no problems

this is a b2 band valve issue and can be changed from outside of transmission behind a round cover on the passenger side of transmission

tough cars

i had a 83 300d and a 84 300sd both with the 4 speed transmission and 5 cylinder turbo diesel

Steve

fireman1073

oh might be a 722.4 transmission but not sure, both are 4 speed

chrisgt

The guy said he removed the in tank filter an it was perfectly clean and there was no rust in the tank. He assumed it had been done at a previous date. When asked, he said the vacuum issues with the trans and engine started at the same time as the door locks breaking, so I'm hoping to just plug the lines to the door locks and have an easy trip home in terms of vacuum. He replaced the pump, too. So that should be in good order. I don't mind picking away at the vacuum system once I get the car home, pretty much par for the course. Fuel cap is a good idea, they're cheap so probably just replace it as matter of course.

Thanks for the details on the trans, is it worth just replacing the valve as preventative maintenance?

He's changing the lift pump today and that'll hopefully fix the issue, if not I'll mention driving with the fuel cap loose or removed as a diag. If all goes well I'm hoping to pick it up this weekend. My fiancee and a good friend are going with me so we're hoping to just cannonball the 2000 mile roadtrip with a couple stops to visit friends along the way.

fireman1073

chrisgt you can leave the trans alone if it doesn't slip out of first but should it develop don't let some tranny guy convince you the trans needs rebuilding, they are very tough transmissions

mine went over 300,000 miles when i junked it (body rot) and it still shifted and ran fine.
the junkyard sold it as a whole vehicle

search the various w123 forums for many answers to many problems

they are very rugged vehicles

enjoy

Steve

chrisgt

All these responses are very encouraging, especially since the car has around 160k (odo broke at 128k). It looks like a very easy fix, there are some good guides online. Looks a lot easier than doing the BMW e30 odo.

Anyway, he just got the new lift pump in yesterday so I'm waiting on his word to whether it runs well or not. If it does, I'm heading out. Hopefully I'll know today so I can book a rental car and let everyone we're meeting with know we'll be showing up.

marc hanna

I think your biggest frustration with the car will not be the cost of each repair, but rather the multiplicity of repairs. If kept in a dry climate its entire life, it might not be too bad. Rust-proofing will be your best insurance long-term though, because the car will simply rot out in a humid and colder environment and will happen surprisingly fast.

chrisgt

Yea, a friend of mine had a 240d and it was GONE by the time he stopped driving it. I've been fluid filming my subarus for years, and it really seems to help. Every few weeks in the winter I threw em up on the lift and fluid film the bajesus out of them.

marc hanna

I use Krown rust-proofing in combination with Fluid Film. Southern Ontario road salt destroys vehicles remarkably fast. I also use floor liners to keep the floor dry in winter. You really can't do enough in wet salty climates to stay off the rust.

chrisgt

He installed a heavy duty monark lift pump and says it's never ran better. So I guess we'll see how this goes

marc hanna

Have a fun trip!

Plutoe

Wada bunch of HS--heavy duty fuel pump

chrisgt

So I bought the car and the three of us drove it home.
First issue we had was the feed line to the SLS pump started pissing fluid everywhere. Replaced that with AT hose and were back on the road.
Second issue we had was after about 20 minutes on the highway there was a massive cloud of smoke behind us. After a lot of dicking around I took apart the whole aircleaner assembly and put it back together properly. This fixed the issue. Clearly the crankcase was getting pressurized or something.
Third issue was horrible leaks of the everything in the SLS system. Ultimately I fixed this by taking the high pressure side of the pump and putting it into the fill cap of the reservoir. This kept the pump from running without fluid and we got home.

I'm gonna pull the SLS shocks and put sedan ones in there for now, it's wicked easy and cheap. Doing this lets me drive the car while I take the time to slowly pick away at getting all the SLS rebuild stuffs.

Two big issues I'm having, where can I buy a shut down valve? Mine doesn't hold vacuum with a hand held vac pump. Can't find these for sale ANYWHERE.

Second issue, on both sides you can't lock or unlock the doors with the key. After removing the door card it turns out there's a linkage or something broken off between the key lock and the up/down lock. How do I even start to find that?

marc hanna

Check out rockauto.com and eBay, the rest of the parts you can't get there you will be able to get from the dealer.

chrisgt

Found all the vacuum leaks, most of it was centered around the ERG valve thingies, so I just disconnected EGR. It's pointless and I don't have to pass emissions. With all the vac leaks and cracked lines gone the trans shifts so smooth I can't even feel it shifting, at WOT it shifts harder like it should

It still shifts through the gears too early and won't downshift unless I go full throttle, and will never downshift into 2nd or 1st. So that's likely just an adjustment. I just don't want to adjust anything until I'm sure I have rid all vacuum leaks and everything is in proper working order. Otherwise things get screwed up.

I also fixed the SLS high pressure line, the system seems to be working, I think... Not how it should, but eh, as long as it isn't lowriding I can pick away at it.

Now I just need a new shutdown valve and door lock bits

donalloy

Sounds like a good find. How about some pictures of her!

chrisgt

I'm pretty bad at remembering my camera, then remembering to actually use it. Even so, I did manage to take a picture the other day. (I don't have a fancy cell phone thingy)

donalloy

NICE!