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E-Class (W123) 1976-1986: 240D, 280E, 300D, 300TD, 300CD

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Old 09-13-2010, 01:18 PM   #1
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merecedes rec'med trans oil

I am relacing transmission oil on 1983 240D- I thought it was ATF but son of my mechanic for 40yrs says it's dextron- any help?
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Old 09-14-2010, 08:22 PM   #2
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Dex is a type of ATF.
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:17 PM   #3
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To expound on the matter, back in the day, there were 3 types of tranny fluid. Type A was for American Motors and also used by Mercedes. Dexron was for GM and IIRC Chrysler. Type F was for Ford only. Type A no longer exists and is replaced by Dexron. Type F is still required in older Fords, but the newer Fords use Dexron. Only two fluids are naw available. Dexron is used in everything except the newest cars which require synthetic Dexron. Hope this clears things up.
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Old 10-29-2010, 05:52 PM   #4
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Any

quality Fluid labeled DEX3
Don't use fluid labeled NAG1/722.6 mb spec.
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Old 10-30-2010, 12:01 AM   #5
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As I said before without soundbites, Dexron is for earlier cars, and synthetic is for later cars starting in 1996 when the 722.6 5 speed was first introduced. The early 722.6 trannys were a piece of crap. They were poorly designed with crappy little needle bearings that grenaded. The return core charge was held by MB until cause of failure was determined. If the tranny grenaded, you didn't get your core deposit back. In my humble opinion this is one of the myriad cost cutting items MB learned from Detroit along with many others like putting cheap radiators in the C (cheap) class cars. The tranny cooler part of the radiator would fail and wipe out the tranny. Fortunately MB made many modification to the 722.6 to make it more reliable.
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Old 10-30-2010, 12:47 AM   #6
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Without soundbites

you haven't a clue.
Dex3 early trans
722.6 is not just synthetic dexron
try putting in synthetic dex6 which is on the market or dex2
or put 722.6 fluid in a 722.9 transmission

722.6 takes mb spec 722.6 or mb spec 722.9 fluid
shell and mobil atf134 is also spec and backwards compatible to all early and late model mb trans 722.4 722.5 722.6 722.9
another choice that goes beyond dex3 and synthetic dex options you allude

transmission fluid is not a 2 item option as you claim.
Not if you value your transmission

btw the valeo radiators were also installed in W211 E class and Pricey S class
and those coolers also leaked coolant into the transmissions.
Not just the C class
You might want to do some homework on fluids and mb related issues before you give out more poor information
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00-02 drivers side heated self dimming mirror glass
O2 sensors plug and play
17mm special spark plug boot tool
Spring loaded u joint spark plug socket
722.6 transmission dipstick
W210 W124 parts
Cryo rotors
Brake pads F.S.



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Last edited by ohlord; 10-30-2010 at 01:17 AM.
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:48 AM   #7
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722.6 and 722.9 are trans model indicators. The fluid spec is actually 236.14.

Although all other info stated by ohlord is correct.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:13 AM   #8
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OHLORD,
Sounds like learning specs is a full time hobby with you. Have you ever done any actual diagnostics or repair work. As an MB factory trained MB mechanic with over 30 years in the trenches, I actually do have a clue. I was trying to simplify the differences in transmission fluid without getting into the whole science of tribology. I realize there are different specs when you get down to the application, but I'm optimistic that someone chaging fluid in a $5000 transmission would either have it done professionally or check more thoroughly before taking the word of some poster. If someone did follow my words as gospel, then A friend of mine is right. My friend says we could remove alot of idiots from society and thin our population by removing all warning labels.

You kinda remind me of a guy who chastised me on one of these threads several years ago for answering a posters question about where to store a battery. I said a cool dark place and preferally on a concrete floor.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:51 AM   #9
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Yes to

both.
And people coming to the forums like the proper information.
So why not tell them use spec fluid instead of saying there are 2 choices in fluids.So in your case you have a clue but choose not to share it.
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00-02 drivers side heated self dimming mirror glass
O2 sensors plug and play
17mm special spark plug boot tool
Spring loaded u joint spark plug socket
722.6 transmission dipstick
W210 W124 parts
Cryo rotors
Brake pads F.S.



Cognomen is in homage to the late great Janis Joplin "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz"
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:42 PM   #10
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You keep missing my point. If I am an accountant let's say, I would be an idiot if I listened to you and your specs or me and my generalities. The smart thing to do would be check with a dealer or better yet a transmission rebuilder. The dumbest thing I could do is listen to the employee at the local DIY auto parts store.

By the way where is the best place to store a battery?
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:04 PM   #11
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Most forum members

who diy would prefer to have the correct information that is offered by people who know.
If you think that the dealers are going to field those questions all day long so be it.

It would be very easy if you are a so called mb trained mechanic to give out the spec or the help requested. That is if you knew it in the first place.

Battery
In a dry spot subject to neither low nor high temp extremes on a battery tender to maintain charge.
Why? Do you need to store a battery?
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00-02 drivers side heated self dimming mirror glass
O2 sensors plug and play
17mm special spark plug boot tool
Spring loaded u joint spark plug socket
722.6 transmission dipstick
W210 W124 parts
Cryo rotors
Brake pads F.S.



Cognomen is in homage to the late great Janis Joplin "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz"
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Old 11-01-2010, 01:52 PM   #12
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What about the concrete? Would you store it on concrete?

I'm pretty much retired now, but I've given all my equipment to a young fellow who I'm mentoring on MBs including my R12 machine, my R134 machine, and SDS unit. I have full use of the shop to work on my own cars. We get some late 90s and early 2000s in to diagnose and repair. I enjoy the diagnostic part, because of my background as having been an electronics tech for 8 years, but I'm tired of working on cars. Whether you believe it or not, I can do whatever is required to keep an MB on the road Except rebuilding a transmission. I have an expert in the Bay Area for that. His name is Paul, and he owns Mercedes Werkstatt in Mountain View. I wouldn't even think of installing a dealer tranny, because I can't be assured of quality when my name is on it. I got burned many years ago when I installed a factory turbo diesel engine. There were problems and MB did not make good. Before that I rebuilt a 280SL engine. I bought a block fitted with pistons from the dealer. One of the pistons was broken in the block. From then on I built the whole engine or I wasn't interested in the job.

THe point is I do know what I'm doing and as a bonus I'm keeping you alive and excited with this persiflage. I know you are on line and salivating for my answer. Bon Appetite.
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hineywineries View Post
I said a cool dark place and preferally on a concrete floor.
Thats about the worst place you can put a battery.

Quote:
By the way where is the best place to store a battery?
On warm, dry shelf. At the very least, on a block of wood to keep it off the concrete.

Quote:
I'm pretty much retired now
That says it all, you're an old fart set in your ways. You don't want to learn anything new because you're afraid what you already "know" might have been wrong all along, proven wrong by some youngster that figured out something better.

Quote:
I've given all my equipment to a young fellow who I'm mentoring on MBs including my R12 machine, my R134 machine
Phew, thats tough learning, how to turn on the vacuum pump, how long to vacuum, which levers to turn and how much to charge. Has he passed the open book refrigerant recovery and recycling "certification" quiz?

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I know you are on line and salivating for my answer.
What answer? All I've seen is an arrogant, self-centered *rick blowing hot air up our butts.
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:08 AM   #14
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I knew if I baited the trap long enough, I'd get some schmuck to bite. A cool dry place and preferably on concrete is where you store a battery. Folks who still believe you store a battery on a board belong to the group of ignorant folks who get a box of tools together and BE FIXEN on cars without any BOOK LEARNIN. Servicing and repairing today's modern vehicles takes more than finding the water pump and seeing the leak. A good professional mechanic reads and attends seminars constantly.

Storing a battery on a board was correct in the old days, baczuse of the materials the cases were made of. The surface acted as a conductor to the concrete. With the new materials you wash the battery to eliminate surface drain then store in a cool dry place. Surface discharge rate is lower at cooler temps. To verify claims contact (BCI) Battery Council International which sets the standards for groupings, testing, ratings, etc.

As to sevicing A/C systems, I agree evacuating and charging are simple, but what if the gauge readings are wrong when the charging is complete. What does that mean? What if the low side is too high for the ambient temp? What if the compressor grenades? Do you just slap another one in? How much oil do you put in? How do you flush an A/C system? It's not quite that simple Sporto.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:56 PM   #15
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I dont know what your deal is but if you're just here to degrade and insult people then find another forum because thats not why i come here.
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Old 11-03-2010, 04:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hineywineries View Post
I knew if I baited the trap long enough
Thanks for admitting you're a sad little troll.

Quote:
A cool dry place and preferably on concrete is where you store a battery.
That is false information.

Quote:
Surface discharge rate is lower at cooler temps.
However, it increases sulfation.

Quote:
but what if the gauge readings are wrong when the charging is complete. What does that mean?
It means you failed to diagnose the reason it needed to be charged/evacuated in the first place.

Quote:
It's not quite that simple Sporto.
No der Oldude.
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Old 11-03-2010, 04:32 AM
 
 
 
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1982, 300ds, 300td, benz, f, fluid, mercedes, mountain, oil, paul, rec, tranz, type, view, w123, werkstatt



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