NorCal124

Thanks jdmr01, btw, where did you find this DIY tip? Would I be able to get it cheaper if i got the universal O2 sensor for the ford instead of the one w/ the connector? Thanks again.

CDP

so much useful information.

We should DEFINITELY make a DO-IT-YOURSELF thread in the W124 section, and then have people post some good DIY tips and post them in there and it'll be a sticky so everyone can find them easily. What do you guys think? I think it'll be a really useful thing to come upon.

jrmd01

NorCal124,

I get all my DIY information from mercedesshop.com. I believe it's run by a bunch of ex-mercedes mechanics. I'm not sure though. Anyway those guys are great. They are VERY intelligent when it comes to MB. Some of the stuff is over my head. For example they don't recommend changing the O2 sensor without checking out the voltage/ohm/resistance (whatever) first. They'll give all the numbers that you need to know but it's just too detailed for me. For $45 I'll just change it and avoid the headache. I'm in the medical field...I'm not an engineer or mechanic. I just like to work on my own cars on the weekends.

BTW if you do visit the site for questions on your car, use the search function first. Many of the common problems have been discussed numerous times in full detail. Some even have step by step directions with visual aids.

I'm not sure about the universal O2 sensor. You might save another $5 or so getting the universal sensor, but why would you do that? Personally I would spend the extra $5 and stick with the 13953 BOSCH Ford sensor since it's the exact sensor on our car (except for the connectors) so in a sense it's an OEM part (which is always better than an aftermarket replacement).

Chris,

The DIY sticky is a good idea. But I haven't seen enough participation on this board for it to be a success. You'll also need a Moderator to make sure the DIY is done correctly...this is where the other board I listed above is superior.

NorCal124

The universal sensor is the exact same thing as the OEM but without the connector. I saw the O2 sensor from ford. There were three wires (2 white, 1 black), how will I know which one to splice into the wires from the OEM connector?

jrmd01

NorCal124

The universal sensor may have the same wiring, but double check the thread. If that matches I don't see why you can't use it.

Now regarding the wires. There should be 3 (2 white & 1 black). The black is self explanatory. The white will be a little more tricky. When you remove the OEM sensor, don't cut anything until you have to taken careful note of the white wires. I haven't done this myself, but the way it was explained on Mercedesshop.com, you'll have to carefully follow the white wires to the sensor. When I do mine, I'll cut one wire at a time, that way I don't confuse myself.

Do a search on Mercedesshop.com if you still have doubts. I've told you everything I know about the O2 sensor. If my idling problem still exist after I replace the MAS potentiometer, I will be changing the O2 sensor as I've described it to you.

GL.

neanderthal

you could also buy a used one from a wrecker to practise on.


when you feel ready, then you can schedule the operation.

NorCal124

Knowing how ridiculous the dismantler/recycler prices are, getting a used one might cost just as much as buying this cheaper ford O2 sensor.

X03

well if anybody changes their o2 sensor, take some pics and make a simple DIY please. because i know im interested in doing this as well as others, and some pictures would help. Gas these days is just ridiculous esp if im only getting 19mpg if im lucky.

I've noticed that i can smell gas comming from the exhaust just when it idles, and also that the economy meter in the dash is already 1/4 ahead when it just idles. like its not pinned in the corner if you know what i mean. could this be from o2 sensor?

NorCal124

Next week I'm planning to remove the O2 sensor just to see how I'm gonna do this. If it looks pretty straight forward I'll just run down the street to the parts store to pick it up and do it right then and there. If I remember to bring my camera I'll snap some pics.

CDP

So...I've been reading on and off that I might need cooper rights for when I remove my drain plug and I should replace it with a new one. Is this true? and perhaps new gasket rings?

NorCal124

You talking about your oil drain plug??? If you want to be a perfectionist about it, yes, you're supposed to replace the copper O-ring. Just as long as it doesn't leak, you're fine. People are starting to use nylon or rubber O-rings for their oil drain plugs (as far as what I see people buy at my store). I'm told they're meant for more frequent changes and allow for a better seal. Personally I stick w/ copper.

CDP

So as of right now, Stock W124's use copper O-Rings? If anything, I'll just order that from the dealer as well when I get my oil filter. Should be cheap with my wholesale discount. haha Anyways, what about those gasket rings for the oil filter and what not?

NorCal124

Another tip; I'd suggest using a K&N oil filter instead of a standard one. The standard oil filters are a biatch to remove even w/ a filter wrench. At least w/ the K&N, you can use a 1" socket to remove it. You don't need to get the copper O-ring from the MB dealer either. You can pick it up at your local parts store for $3 for a pack of like 4. As far as the gasket on the oil filter, they come w/ them.

CDP

How much do those K&N oil filter's run for? Wanna hook me up with the size or product number so I can get it easier. haha you know I'm lazy. Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll just ask the people for the o-rings for the drain plug. haha

NorCal124

around $11 but worth every penny. they have the anti-drain back valve that the fram or bosch filter doesn't. part # is HP2005

CDP

woooooooooooo! thanks for the part # buddy. I think I found what oil I'm going to use. Mobil One High Mileage or 5000. What do you guys think? Still not sure what grade. 10w-40? I would run synthetic, but that would cause even more leaks than I have right now. Also, I plan on changing the air filter as well. My friend suggested K & N. Should I go for it or go with OEM. I've heard horror stories about things going wrong when people went with K & N Air Filters, so I'm slightly curious.

Sorry about all the questions. Just want to do things right the first time!

NorCal124

10w40 would be perfect. I'd suggest using Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer to go w/ it (not the regular oil stabilizer because its a synthetic blend). I used the 10w30 Mobil 1 (5000) in my Sentra and it works great!. I have a K&N filter in my car. If you think about it this way; an OEM filter costs about $22, after three cleanings the K&N pays for itself. The horror stories you hear about are usually with the gumming up of the oil in the filter. This only happens when you apply the oil before the filter has had a chance to completely dry after cleaning it. The filter is ready to go when you buy it so you won't need to buy a "recharging" kit right away. But if you buy it from Kragen there's a coupon inside one of the in-store ads that give a free recharging kit w/ the purchase of a K&N. The filter for our cars (E2867) is a special order one so it might take a couple days to get. I have always had great sucess w/ K&N products and I have since used them in EVERY vehicle I or my family owns.

CDP

Thanks for the info man! Don't know what I would do without you an especially this late. So I guess 10w-40 it is. I believe in the past my mechanic would put 5w-30 or 10w-30. It was one of those. Does that play a role? Also, how about the Mobil One Oil's I told you about, the Mobil Clean High Mileage or Mobil Clean 5000. Some people told me to go either way so it was a tie vote. I went to the auto store and it's only 16 bucks for a box. Really cheap! Yeah, basically the Air Filter pays for itself so I wouldn't mind spending the extra money since it'll be better in the long run. Don't they run for about 50-60?

So what is this "recharging" you're talking about? Sounds so new to me.

NorCal124

The K&N filter for W124s are about $60. Recharging is the fancy name K&N gives their cleaning and re-oiling kit. When it comes time to clean you filter you spray it down w/ the cleaning solution, let it sit then rinse it. After it completely dries you respray the entire filter w/ the supplied oil and you're good to go. Yes, the Clean 5000 should work fine. It's a synthetic blend so you'll get the quality of synthetic oil without the outrageous price. A 40 weight oil will be perfect for you because the warmer weather causes the oil to thin out faster. It is also recommended to use thicker oil in higher milage cars (above 100K). The reason your mechanic uses a 30 weight oil when he services your car was because 30 weight oil works on almost all cars. By him buying 30 weight he can service the majority of his clients. The only reason I used Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic was because a case was lying around my parents house and I didn't want it to go to waste. It's also the reason why I added the Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer to help thicken it up. It so happened I discovered how great it works. I used to use Castrol but my work rarely has it on sale and Costco has it for a good price. However I still use Castrol in our other vehicles that don't use synthetic oil. I've always stuck with either Castrol or Mobil 1, to me there is no better oil than those two.

neanderthal

the horror stories you have heard as regards the K&N filters are when used in conjuction with an HFM motor. HFM denotes hot film/ wire and is used in the later 104 engines and V8s. 103s and early 104s and V8s had the bosch KE which used a flapper to regulate intake air.

HFM motors used either a wire or film of wire, through which the intake air passed, cooling the said wire. this wire had a current going through it which kept it at a certain temperature and the temperature drop associated with air rushing past it and increased current required to maintain the static temperature were used to gauge the amount of air going into the engine and employed to calculate the amount of fuel required. all this was referenced to other factors like the temp of the air itself, load, rpm setting, speed, which gear the car is in and so on but i digress.

what would happen is the oil would be sucked off the filter and contaminate the wire, causing the car to malfuntion.

id advise against using a K&N filter. regardless of which engine you have. its more porous than a standard MB filter and that is what allows it to flow better.

CDP

I guess I'm not the only insomniac prowling the forums late at night. lol.

I'll seriously have to check with Kragan this weekend on that filter (especially for the free "recharging" kit) and as well as the oil filter and what not. I should be ready to change my oil by next weekend if anything. Then again, I should check with Costco as well and see if they have any Mobil One oil that's non synthetic for my car. Trying to save money here! Thanks for all the help, especially with putting up with all my questions. Don't worry, I'm bound to have a few more later.

NorCal124

They'll only have 5w30 and 10w30 full synthetic at costco. They should have the the K&N oil filter in stock but I'm almost certain they'll need to order the K&N air filter. There are 2 ads at Kragen, a "performance" one and a regular one. It's in one of those ads. I don't know if So. Cal. has different ads than us but it should almost be the same. Another thing I did when I changed my oil was I cleaned and painted my lower engine cover w/ rubberized undercoat. It prevented oil from sticking to it and made it easier to clean. I don't know if you still have your lower engine cover, I just thought I'd share what I did with mine. No worries about the questions, you guys are helping me just as much.

CDP

Are you talking about the Engine Diaper? I really need to replace mine as well. One time when I got a oil change, the mechanics didn't tighten it all the way so on the way home it feel loose around 40mph and I had to pull over and screw it back in place. Also, it's getting pretty beat up since I'm scrapping it all over the place.

MercedesSource.com sells a Engine Diaper kit with a added "super absorbant spill pad" that absorbs all the oil that leaks. Seems like a good idea, but then again you can simply do it yourself as well. lol

Click To See It Here

NorCal124

Yes that's what I'm talking about. Mine's is still in good condition so I just bought some rubberized undercoat, cleaned the entire thing w/ engine degreaser to get all the oil off and sprayed it both front and back. I also did the same thing with the cover of the fuel filter/pump/regulator. Aside from keeping the grease and dirt from sticking to it, it makes things look nicer. I also plan on painting my air box because although mine's works fine, it has one broken clamp which is annoying the hell out of me. Maybe while' I'm replacing and painting that I'll go ahead and get my valvecover gasket replaced and have the valve cover sand blasted and powder coated. But that's for way in the future.

neanderthal

yeah been an insomniac all my life. i remember being 7 at boarding school and being the last one asleep. id be talking to someone after lights out, and eventually id be talking to myself.

all mobil 1 is genuinely and fully synthetic. there is no non sythetic version of mobil one. about $22 for a case of six at costco IIRC.


there are some not fully synthetic "synthetic oils" out there. be careful. and no, im not talking about the sythetic blend oils either.