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E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

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Old 07-22-2005, 12:54 PM   #1
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signs and symptoms of a bad water pump...

im just curious of signs and symptoms of a bad water pump...

-thanks
carino
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Old 07-22-2005, 01:18 PM   #2
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it pukes water all over the place. it runs hot. it pukes water all over the place.

that is jus my personal experience.
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:50 AM   #3
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Get your car up to operating temperature, run the A/C. Once the temp is about 80-85 deg. Park it and let it sit idling with the A/c on for about 5 minutes, then turn the car off. let the car sit for about 5 minutes with the engine off. Then turn the ignition so that the temp gauge registers. You will probably see it spike to over 100 because the car has been sitting with a hot engine and no coolant flowing through to take away the heat. Note the temp, then start the engine. If the temp doesn't come down to normal within about a minute, then you probably have a bad pump. When functioning properly, as soon as the car is cranked the pump will move enough coolant through the head to drop the temp very quickly.
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Old 07-25-2005, 05:13 PM   #4
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Like AMG_Eric said, coolant all over the place and usually a loud squeeking noise from the water pump. In the worse case scenario your pulley will seize up on the water pump.
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:08 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by mhorn
Get your car up to operating temperature, run the A/C. Once the temp is about 80-85 deg. Park it and let it sit idling with the A/c on for about 5 minutes, then turn the car off. let the car sit for about 5 minutes with the engine off. Then turn the ignition so that the temp gauge registers. You will probably see it spike to over 100 because the car has been sitting with a hot engine and no coolant flowing through to take away the heat. Note the temp, then start the engine. If the temp doesn't come down to normal within about a minute, then you probably have a bad pump. When functioning properly, as soon as the car is cranked the pump will move enough coolant through the head to drop the temp very quickly.

my car will do this everytime i turn on and off the car. even when i dont have the A/C turned on. If i just drive and do some errands, turn off the car and come back later the temp will be in the 90's and the fan will go off until i start the engine and give it some gas, then the temp will drop down to normal. Is this still normal because I've never noticed it doing this before. It would always stay in the normal temp range when just doing errands and stuff, but it seems like it runs really hot when i drive and after i turn it off.
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Old 07-28-2005, 10:59 AM   #6
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It is perfectly normal for your temp to spike after you turn the car off. Think about it. When you turn off your car the coolant stops circulating around the engine. But the engine is still hot and will stay hot for a good while. So it just sits there and has only the stagnant coolant that is in the engine and the outside air to remove the heat that the engine has built up. This will take a while. However, as soon as you crank the engine up again and start pumping coolant through it, that will take all the built up heat away fairly quickly, Unless you have a bad water pump. So in short, don't worry if you run some errands, turn off your car, then come back a little later and find the temp is in the 100 range right when you start it.

This was a big problems with early turbos that were cooled by oil from the engine. When the car was turned off, the oil that cooled the trubo stop flowing to it, but the turbo was still spinning at about 7000 rpm and was still very hot. They didn't last very long and most manuf. started making seperate oil and coolant systems (intercooler)for the turbocharger.
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Old 08-01-2005, 02:30 PM   #7
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...

well heres what my car is doing...

during acceleration i hear this funny whinning noise....

and lately ive noticed my engine temperature getting pretty warm... ive had this car since new.. and have never seen it run this hot.

during highway its at approx 100.. but once i get of the highway and in normal stop and go traffic it gets almost up to 120. this is with the a/c running full blast and the weather here in kc has been around 95 consistently.

i recently had my radiator changed from the original to the updated behr with the reienforced neck. does anyone know if this new one tends to run warmer than the original.

any thoughts or suggestions?

-thanks
carino
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Old 08-01-2005, 07:50 PM   #8
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When was the last time you flushed the coolant, and changed the thermostat? Check to make sure the aux fans are working also. A bad waterpump should show a constant loss of coolant.
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:30 PM   #9
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....

im assuming that when the dealer but the new radiator in they flushed it... but im not sure... i had it installed a few months back... march or april.. i cant remember. the therm is the original and yes the aux fans come one.. they turn on at about 100ish or so. i dont seem to be loosing any fluid from anywhere except small (very small) puddles of water every once and awhile that im assuming is comming from the AC.

-carino
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:21 PM   #10
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I think you should replace the thermostat, after all, it is the original one. That might be the cause of your problems.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:33 AM   #11
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Car Overheating

I am having the exact same problem. When I drive my car for about 15-20 min my car will start to run hot. It tends to go up faster with the A/C on. It will constantly go up unless I either drive at a higher speed or put the car in park and put my foot on the pedal. I have done evrything. My mechanic has changed the thermostat 3 times, changed the radiator, flushed the coolant, changed the overflow box. What else is there left to try. Im all out of luck right now.
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:15 AM   #12
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Temperature creeping up at stopped/ low/ slow speeds and cooling down at freeway speeds is a classic sign of needing a new waterpump.

The pump is not pushing enough coolant through the cooling system when stopped. The higher rpm and increased airflow past the radiator assist in cooling at higher speeds.
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:58 PM   #13
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The heat build up is because of a bad fan clutch. The radiator can handle a lot of heat dissipation but if the fan works properly, it will be able to supply cooler coolant.

It gets worse as it wears out. First it's really warm restarts, then just getting off the freeway and because of reduced air flow, temps rise into the top third. Running AC, forget it.

30mph cruising speed is when you could drive without a fan all together. So when stopped temps rise with a fan that doesn't actually create flow. Also the engine works harder at freeway speed, which when you stop, goes through a major heat soak.
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Old 09-15-2012, 01:47 AM   #14
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I replaced water pump's in both my M103 & M104. The M103 sprung a leak so I let the car sit for a year. I tried to start it recently and the bearing froze. I immediately stopped the engine when I heard the belt squeal. This happened once in my other M103 on a smog pump pulley. The M104 on the other hand began to make a clunking noise which I isolated with a mechanics stethoscope. The engine ran fine and only occasionally heated slowly over 100 so I didn't drive it on long trips and always watched the temps. I noticed the temp would go down quickly if I turned the heater on which added cooling capacity.

If you get any of these symptoms it's time to replace the water pump, belt tensioner & shock, belt, idler pulley, MB equivalent coolant, and thermostat. Flush or replace the radiator. Somewhat costly but much less than a head rebuild and gasket replacement...
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:34 PM   #15
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:::Bump:::
I read through this thread since I am having a problem w/ my AC. I had it charged today because it was blowing out lukewarm air. It was empty so it needed it. So the AC works but my car was running hot when idle. I turned the AC off and the temp went down to 80 F. I installed a new thermostat and radiator a few months ago so I am good in that regard. What could be the culprit of me running hot when AC is engaged?
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:37 AM   #16
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Viscious fan clutch.
The fan clutch engages and disengages the fan according to temperature, when the clutch fan goes bad the fan does not engage fully.


Quote:
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:::Bump:::
I read through this thread since I am having a problem w/ my AC. I had it charged today because it was blowing out lukewarm air. It was empty so it needed it. So the AC works but my car was running hot when idle. I turned the AC off and the temp went down to 80 F. I installed a new thermostat and radiator a few months ago so I am good in that regard. What could be the culprit of me running hot when AC is engaged?
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:37 AM
 
 
 
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