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E-Class (W124) 1984-1995: E 260, E 300, E 320, E 420, E 500 (Includes CE, T, TD models)

Symptoms/Problems due to bad ECU/ECM?

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Old 11-22-2008, 11:22 PM   #1
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Symptoms/Problems due to bad ECU/ECM?

Out of curiosity- What are some symptoms or related problems which would happen due to a ECU/ECM going bad/failing?

I heard from my mechanic that one reason to tell is that MB AUX fans will go on repeatedly as an warning sign?

Anyways, Ran my car through the MB Star computer and the same error codes I got last time and also all parts have been replace to new since then are coming up again which includes MAF sensor, hoses and everything else the star picked up.

What are some websites I can purchase a brand new ECU/ECM for a 1995 E420?

Also, what are the going average prices for it new & used?

Are there any sites to where I can buy one used?

I searched eBay but I don't know if this is the appropriate one yet.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ECU-E...es#ht_2170wt_0

Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:13 AM   #2
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*BUMP*

No one can recommend online parts stores???
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Old 11-25-2008, 09:40 AM   #3
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I got mine used from ebay (from Germany) for 76$ US. Not a bad deal, and certainly solved my problem. My car was having issues idling smoothly and would hesitate to accelerate and sometimes even just die out when driving, mostly while backing up. I'll go through my email later, I think I saved the seller's information.
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Old 11-25-2008, 10:48 AM   #4
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Thanks Brett, I found one on eBay for roughly $100 but I'm curious to know how much they are going for used/new from a reputable source.

Also, I'm not sure if the 93-94 are the same as the 95 and if they can be shared

Last edited by CDP; 11-25-2008 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:38 PM   #5
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I got mine on ebay as well. My car would just die at random whether I was going 70 on the freeway or 25 on city streets. I looked around at some online stores but didn't find anything for less than $800. My mechanic found one for $500 but the one on ebay was only $85 so I went with that. Plugged it in myself and haven't had a problem yet. The part numbers were different But it didn't seem to matter.
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Old 11-25-2008, 01:00 PM   #6
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These are the MAS numbers for the m104 engine:
Es handelt sich hier um ein gebrauchtes MAS (Motor-Agregate-Steuergerät) für einen W124 300TE-24V .Es sind mehrer vorhanden , daher bitte anfragen zwecks Teilenummer ( 0115458332 , 0115458232 , 0085458432 , 008545 8532 . 0125454832 ) . Foto dient nur zur Darstellung!

I got it from this guy:
http://stores.ebay.de/amg340te

You can email him and ask if he has any more, it was really quite cheap. 76$ for the MAS and 22$ for shipping.

As for prices from reputable places, cheapest I saw was around 500$.
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Old 11-28-2008, 06:18 AM   #7
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Sometimes your car stops firing on two of the cylinders. There is an option of repairing the one you have. There is a guy who did mine. He is based on the isle of man. he might not be as cheap as the ebay options but he does a complete overhaul so you are sure the ECU is as good as new.
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:06 PM   #8
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Your car may shake, sputter/surge, smoke & cut off.
The one thing I remember most was the very foul odor.
I was able to get a factory fresh one @ the time.
Maybe it is all in my head, but my car never felt so responsive before the new MAS was installed.
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Old 11-28-2008, 12:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShoreBenz View Post
Your car may shake, sputter/surge, smoke & cut off.
The one thing I remember most was the very foul odor.
I was able to get a factory fresh one @ the time.
Maybe it is all in my head, but my car never felt so responsive before the new MAS was installed.
Recently changed my MAS/MAF and my car definitely ran a lot better after that!
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Old 11-28-2008, 01:04 PM   #10
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Oh! Sorry Chris. My bad.
I actually noticed that improvement after replacing the ECU.
I wrote MAS in error.

Do you notice a foul odor or smoke?

Last edited by ShoreBenz; 11-28-2008 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 11-28-2008, 02:38 PM   #11
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It's all good.

I'm not noticing any foul odor or smoke at all. However, I am experiencing engine knock or shall I say slight sputtering causing the revs to drop below 500RPMs.

Anyone know where I can buy one online new or used? perferably used first so I can for sure know it's the ECU/ECM.
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Old 11-28-2008, 03:55 PM   #12
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yeah, sounds like the N3/1 LH-SFI (Sequential Fuel Injection) Module. But when was the last time you replaced or clean the cap and rotor?! check them out real quick, it might just need to be cleaned..
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Old 11-28-2008, 09:16 PM   #13
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Try calling a local auto recycling yard, they have a network.
If they don't have one, they may be able to find one.
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by childofjuly View Post
yeah, sounds like the N3/1 LH-SFI (Sequential Fuel Injection) Module. But when was the last time you replaced or clean the cap and rotor?! check them out real quick, it might just need to be cleaned..
It's been a little over two years I believe since the last cap & rotor has been replaced.

Service records show that a month before I bought the car two years ago the owner took the liberty or fixing that issue before she sold it to me.

I'll look into the fuel injection issue and see if that's a problem. However, I still wonder if a faulty ECU/ECM is causing all these issues.
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Old 11-29-2008, 06:51 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisDPham View Post
It's been a little over two years I believe since the last cap & rotor has been replaced.

Service records show that a month before I bought the car two years ago the owner took the liberty or fixing that issue before she sold it to me.

I'll look into the fuel injection issue and see if that's a problem. However, I still wonder if a faulty ECU/ECM is causing all these issues.
bro please just check them cap and rotors out!! my ***** was doing the same ***** 2 months ago, there were no CEL and out of pin 4 ( which is the N3/1) i had like code 7 and 9 and by taking AMGDAVE's advice I checked my cap and rotor and they were in terrible shape! and my was replace a little over a year ago! so be sure to check them out! u cant lose there! my hesitation and rough idling has gone away since..

because ECUs rarely go bad.. holla back and let me know!

Last edited by childofjuly; 11-29-2008 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:57 PM   #16
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I agree with Childofjuly, start with cap & rotors.

The wires although long lasting, should be checked too.
I remember years ago, raising the hood on my Chevy.
On a dark night, the wires would give me one heck of a light show. Sparks flying everywhere!

It may not be the ECU at all.
However, ECUs going bad is not so rare anymore.
These ECU/computers that we leave out in the elements,
are getting old. Failure is becoming more & more common.
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Old 11-30-2008, 11:49 PM   #17
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The thing with ECU problems is that they are many and intermittent. Mine stopped firing on two cylinders on top of erratic idling. I had mine overhauled by some guy in the UK. His work is top quality. I bought one online only to find that it is for cars with ASR which mine doesn't have.
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Old 12-29-2008, 02:50 PM   #18
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Our 1992 400E did that hesitation and dropping below 500Rpm thing as well. We changed everything and it turned out to be the cap and rotor. Should have started there first!
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:03 AM   #19
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Hey guys, I came across your thread here with your model MB and the issues of engine stalling and changing out your ECU. I have a '95 C220 (w202) and I now suspect it's also the ECU because I'm just not getting a spark at the wires and no 12VDC at the ignition coil connector. I've changed out everything but the OVP now (ie. CPS, camshaft sensor, fuel pump & filter) and in the past rewired last year the wiring harness, replaced fuel pressure regulator, ignition coils, spark plugs and wires. Car just died going 70mph a few months back, started 3 more times and finally died. Now it's dead, no start, just alot of cranking. ECU probably? My w202 thread section have nothing informative of this problem, nor any other threads for any other cars! But you guys describe something that is my last resort (other than me going back and checking for any bad grounds, shorts, or my own bad wiring job!), which is ordering a new OVP relay, and then checking the ECU as you guys described and more convincing me to do. Any tips? Thanks!
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:37 AM   #20
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^^ start with buying a used one from a recycler and see if that helps you solve your problem.

all this talk about wierd electrical gremlims has me thinking i should sell my new 94 and never let my 90 go
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Old 12-31-2008, 11:23 AM   #21
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Nah, I think you'll be fine. It's not a Jap car in reliability, but the engine/body and class is rock solid. Being that I took things step by step with a repair manual and this forum and Google searches, I really learned alot about my MB and how it works. My '95 C220 got over 300k miles on it and I bought it when it was at 156k. Thing is worth more to me than it is sold used! I think once I got this fixed, it'll run another good 300k! Except I'll have to fix the AC...lol! Then pimp it out like ChrisPham here with his E. Great car btw.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:03 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenshaaka View Post
Sometimes your car stops firing on two of the cylinders. There is an option of repairing the one you have. There is a guy who did mine. He is based on the isle of man. he might not be as cheap as the ebay options but he does a complete overhaul so you are sure the ECU is as good as new.
sooooo i washed mine now #3 and #6 isnt firing sooo u think its my ecu ive replaced dist cap rotor plugs and wires no change must be the ecu on what your saying
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:07 AM   #23
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You may want to stop wasting money on parts that are not needed and start testing ---you do have an 8 or 16 pin diagnostic plug and pulse counter don't you?????
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1988, 1994, 1996, 2000, c220, control, e420, ecm, ecu, engine, f150, mercedes, module, problems, qx4, symptoms


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