Air Pump / Smog Pump HELP
#1
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'92 300E
Air Pump / Smog Pump HELP
Hi. need help...
[QUESTION]
My Air/Smog Pump has jammed, broke the drive belt and mangled a pulley roller. Are these all the parts I need to replace the air/smog pump?
1041401285X
6012001070
0001407760
0001407860
6PK2415
Am I missing anything?
[QUESTION]
My Air/Smog Pump has jammed, broke the drive belt and mangled a pulley roller. Are these all the parts I need to replace the air/smog pump?
1041401285X
6012001070
0001407760
0001407860
6PK2415
Am I missing anything?
Last edited by SNSMBZ W124; 08-23-2009 at 05:02 PM.
#2
If the air pump is jammed, you have to change the pump. Before you do that, check the bearing of the pump. If you need to change only the bearing, goahead and do it.
Since you broke the belt, you have to change the belt, and while you are there, check all the pulleys. If there is any play, you have to change those pulleys too.
Good luck.
Since you broke the belt, you have to change the belt, and while you are there, check all the pulleys. If there is any play, you have to change those pulleys too.
Good luck.
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92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
The pulley works on a clutch that is prone to failure. You will likely need to replace the entire assembly. The junkyard is your best bet, as any pumps I found for sale when mine blew were upwards of $400. Up to $800.
If you can't find one within your budget, I can suggest bypassing the pump by getting a belt for and 86-89 300e before smog pumps were implemented with more strict smog standards.
However, unless you know a smog guy, (I know one in riverside) you will not be able to pass your car in the future.
EDIT: Read this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...on-pulley.html
If you can't find one within your budget, I can suggest bypassing the pump by getting a belt for and 86-89 300e before smog pumps were implemented with more strict smog standards.
However, unless you know a smog guy, (I know one in riverside) you will not be able to pass your car in the future.
EDIT: Read this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...on-pulley.html
Last edited by rivcal4life; 08-25-2009 at 04:51 PM.
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92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
Replacing with an idler pulley would be nearly pointless. Unless he finds a way to trick a smog tech into believing its a smog pump, AND ignoring the fact that his check engine light will be on.
He would be better off just replacing the blown belt with that of an earlier model.
Note item number 7 in the first photo. It is the air pump and it is not there in the second photo. Just make sure you get the corresponding belt with your A/C compressor, or lack thereof. The lengths are there for you to view/convert to inches and purchase at your local kragen/autozone.
He would be better off just replacing the blown belt with that of an earlier model.
Note item number 7 in the first photo. It is the air pump and it is not there in the second photo. Just make sure you get the corresponding belt with your A/C compressor, or lack thereof. The lengths are there for you to view/convert to inches and purchase at your local kragen/autozone.
Last edited by rivcal4life; 08-25-2009 at 05:54 PM.
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1993 E300 2.8l
Just a note, I have a 93 300e with a 2.8l.. My pump went, I got rid of it and ran a smaller belt. my vehicle does not have a engine light (thank god). The only thing by getting rid of it is that you may notice a very small fuel economy drop.. personally i did not notice a thing on my car.
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#9
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92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
Look at the second picture in my previous post man. It says right in it the belt lengths you would need. 2170mm without ac compressor, 2257mm with. You may need to convert to inches at autozone or kragen, but they should have it in stock.
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92 500e, 95 E34 525I Touring
Yes it does. Sorry I did not notice that before. I don't think they made and m104
Version (at least not in the US) without the air pump. I would suggest searching Mercedes shop or another forum for "m104 smog pump bypass" and see if anyone else has done it. Another option i've heard of was to take a string and trace the belt pattern exactly. Then you will have a loop almost exactly the length you need. Measure that, or take it directly to the parts store and have them match it up.
Version (at least not in the US) without the air pump. I would suggest searching Mercedes shop or another forum for "m104 smog pump bypass" and see if anyone else has done it. Another option i've heard of was to take a string and trace the belt pattern exactly. Then you will have a loop almost exactly the length you need. Measure that, or take it directly to the parts store and have them match it up.
#12
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'92 300E
what's the Bracket that holds the Roller on the engine pulley between the fan and air pump? I just don't know what it's called or what the part number is.
any help is highly appreciated!
Pics & More here...
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...300e-w124.html
any help is highly appreciated!
Pics & More here...
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...300e-w124.html
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1993 300e 2.8 - M104 Engine, SOLD; S320 2000
that is the fan bearing bracket, it holds both the fan bearing bracket and the idler pulley you broke
Part# : 104 200 13 28
good luck
Part# : 104 200 13 28
good luck
#14
Uhhh. it's not generally a good idea to bypass the smog pump. First, in Kalifornia, it's illegal. Ok, ignoring that for a second, the other issue is that the life of the cat converter will be significantly shortened w/o the air pump in place because of all the unburned HC in the exahust when the motor is cold (that's when the air pump runs, I'm sure you've noticed). All that HC adds a bunch of load to the cat converter. Not sure what miles you have on the car but unless you repaced the cat converter at some point in the past, it is likely on the downhill run of its service life anyway, so runnig without an air pump will hasten its demise, and then smog tech or no, your car will never pass the smog running dyno test with a dead cat converter.
To answer your question on the fan bearing bracket, pull off all the stuff on the front of the motor until you can get at the bolts. I think a couple of the bolts that attach that bracket have to be sealed with sealer upon reassembly but I'm not totally sure about that. Do you have the factory shop manual?
To answer your question on the fan bearing bracket, pull off all the stuff on the front of the motor until you can get at the bolts. I think a couple of the bolts that attach that bracket have to be sealed with sealer upon reassembly but I'm not totally sure about that. Do you have the factory shop manual?
Last edited by 73Elsinore; 09-16-2009 at 04:37 PM. Reason: Clarified the original post
#16
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'92 300E
this is the Roller Bracket I went with for the Roller, NOT the engine fan.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/88
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...category_id/88
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'92 300E
Please answer my questions...
In replacing this melted roller, I broke the bracket.
What is the name of the bracket that holds this roller?
Where should I look to find a new one?
What is the name of the bracket that holds this roller?
What is the name of the bracket that holds this roller?
Where should I look to find a new one?
What is the name of the bracket that holds this roller?
Last edited by SNSMBZ W124; 09-22-2009 at 02:09 PM.
#18
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'92 300E
that is the fan bearing bracket, it holds both the fan bearing bracket and the idler pulley you broke
Part# : 104 200 13 28
good luck
Part# : 104 200 13 28
good luck
#19
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124...umber-5-a.html
I did this last year and no CHECK ENGINE LIGHT...
and I passed smog this year...
That's the fan clutch flange. Pretty pricing anywhere. Go to a "pick your part" junkyard. It's about $35-45.00, I actually just replaced mine, it was easier than removing a bad clutch. So I pulled it off another M104 from a '94 C280. I have the old one still with a bad clutch from my '94 E320.
https://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...ber=1042001328
I did this last year and no CHECK ENGINE LIGHT...
Uhhh. it's not generally a good idea to bypass the smog pump. First, in Kalifornia, it's illegal. Ok, ignoring that for a second, the other issue is that the life of the cat converter will be significantly shortened w/o the air pump in place because of all the unburned HC in the exahust when the motor is cold (that's when the air pump runs, I'm sure you've noticed). All that HC adds a bunch of load to the cat converter. Not sure what miles you have on the car but unless you repaced the cat converter at some point in the past, it is likely on the downhill run of its service life anyway, so runnig without an air pump will hasten its demise, and then smog tech or no, your car will never pass the smog running dyno test with a dead cat converter.
To answer your question on the fan bearing bracket, pull off all the stuff on the front of the motor until you can get at the bolts. I think a couple of the bolts that attach that bracket have to be sealed with sealer upon reassembly but I'm not totally sure about that. Do you have the factory shop manual?
To answer your question on the fan bearing bracket, pull off all the stuff on the front of the motor until you can get at the bolts. I think a couple of the bolts that attach that bracket have to be sealed with sealer upon reassembly but I'm not totally sure about that. Do you have the factory shop manual?
https://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...ber=1042001328
Last edited by jgajito; 09-22-2009 at 03:07 PM.
#22
smog pump/air pump help!!
I still have the belt on, and i have the replacement pump. But i want tknow if theres any short cuts to replace the pump with out tearing apart the radiator and removing the belt.
I have a 300e 3.0L. 1990
I have a 300e 3.0L. 1990