help needed: W124 Cabrio top wont open
#26
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1995 E320 Cabriolet
watut -
One more thought - If your roll-bar is indeed in the "automatic deployment" state, have you tried the specific reset procedure in the Manual? I have attached a scan from my Manual. It says to "hold the roll-bar switch in the up position for at least 8 seconds until the mechanism re-engages, then press lower to lower the bar.
- FD
One more thought - If your roll-bar is indeed in the "automatic deployment" state, have you tried the specific reset procedure in the Manual? I have attached a scan from my Manual. It says to "hold the roll-bar switch in the up position for at least 8 seconds until the mechanism re-engages, then press lower to lower the bar.
- FD
I picked up the car from a salvage auction, it went into a ditch. The rollbars must have deployed from that or when being towed, who knows. The switch must have broke after.
#28
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Try the soft top troubleshooting sequence documented here: W124 Cabriolet Softtop Troubleshoot.pdf (the file is zipped). It seems to cover almost anything.
BTW, I noticed that you can't lower the roll bar with the power window safety switch engaged. If this is the case, you also will not be able to reset a deployed roll bar with that switch engaged.
- FD
BTW, I noticed that you can't lower the roll bar with the power window safety switch engaged. If this is the case, you also will not be able to reset a deployed roll bar with that switch engaged.
- FD
#29
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Try the soft top troubleshooting sequence documented here: W124 Cabriolet Softtop Troubleshoot.pdf (the file is zipped). It seems to cover almost anything.
BTW, I noticed that you can't lower the roll bar with the power window safety switch engaged. If this is the case, you also will not be able to reset a deployed roll bar with that switch engaged.
- FD
BTW, I noticed that you can't lower the roll bar with the power window safety switch engaged. If this is the case, you also will not be able to reset a deployed roll bar with that switch engaged.
- FD
Thank you kind sir. Where is the power window safety switch? I can open my windows from all of the switches right now.
#30
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The power window safety switch is the small switch between the driver's window and the left rear passenger's window switch. It disables the local windows switches, so if you can use all of them, it's not activated. I checked on my car and it is only the rear roll-bar switch that is disabled by the power window safety switch.
#31
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The power window safety switch is the small switch between the driver's window and the left rear passenger's window switch. It disables the local windows switches, so if you can use all of them, it's not activated. I checked on my car and it is only the rear roll-bar switch that is disabled by the power window safety switch.
Could be the case with mine too, will give it a try tonight. Do you know of a good source for the roll bar switch (on the control arm)? One of my is done, was about to order one from bimmerspecialist.
#32
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The power window safety switch did not seem to have an effect on anything, will try again after I replace the rear axle switch
#33
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The left and right rear axle roll-over switches are different. The left roll-over switch is part No. 129 540 11 44 and the right one is 129 540 12 44. Note that this is the same switch that is used on the R129 (SL500).
For dealer-only type parts, I usually use this source Mecedes Parts Center. I got my engine wiring harness from them and they had the best price I could find anywhere. I would also PM Joe (joef) on this board who is parting out a cabrio (also in Canada). He may have kept that part.
Two more questions - does the hydraulic pump run when you try to lower the roll bar? Have you checked the two limit switches on the roll bar assembly? A faulty limit switch here will cause problems. Just a thought.
- FD
Rest in Peace Steve.
For dealer-only type parts, I usually use this source Mecedes Parts Center. I got my engine wiring harness from them and they had the best price I could find anywhere. I would also PM Joe (joef) on this board who is parting out a cabrio (also in Canada). He may have kept that part.
Two more questions - does the hydraulic pump run when you try to lower the roll bar? Have you checked the two limit switches on the roll bar assembly? A faulty limit switch here will cause problems. Just a thought.
- FD
Rest in Peace Steve.
#34
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The left and right rear axle roll-over switches are different. The left roll-over switch is part No. 129 540 11 44 and the right one is 129 540 12 44. Note that this is the same switch that is used on the R129 (SL500).
For dealer-only type parts, I usually use this source Mecedes Parts Center. I got my engine wiring harness from them and they had the best price I could find anywhere. I would also PM Joe (joef) on this board who is parting out a cabrio (also in Canada). He may have kept that part.
Two more questions - does the hydraulic pump run when you try to lower the roll bar? Have you checked the two limit switches on the roll bar assembly? A faulty limit switch here will cause problems. Just a thought.
- FD
Rest in Peace Steve.
For dealer-only type parts, I usually use this source Mecedes Parts Center. I got my engine wiring harness from them and they had the best price I could find anywhere. I would also PM Joe (joef) on this board who is parting out a cabrio (also in Canada). He may have kept that part.
Two more questions - does the hydraulic pump run when you try to lower the roll bar? Have you checked the two limit switches on the roll bar assembly? A faulty limit switch here will cause problems. Just a thought.
- FD
Rest in Peace Steve.
Thanks man, I really appreciate your help! I have been talking with Joe ( bought a door handle off him) his switches were no good. Will see if that website you posted will ship to canada, otherwise will just order from Bimmerspecialist.
Also, will have to look into those limit switches. Printed off a bunch of help material from here, benzworld and peachparts. I should find them!
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Update, just got my car back from the bodyshop. I changed the switch on the control panel. Still same story, I don't seem to hear the pump run when I try to lower them. Also when I first start the car the rollbar light doesn't flash it just comes on solid and stays on?
#36
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Is this the way the rollbar light should flash?
I did get a code 8 which was for the rollbar malfunction light. I reset that code. I am not getting any other codes and the rollbars don't want to retract. Fuses are good, hydraulic fluid level is ok. What else am I missin here
#38
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I have the same problem
Hi,
I'm brand new here. Sorry to piggyback a thread here, but I just acquired an e320 cabriolet. The top wont go down. The roll bar switch and the soft top switch are solid red, no blinking. Any ideas as to what to do? and where are the rear fuses for the soft top located? Thanks much!
I'm brand new here. Sorry to piggyback a thread here, but I just acquired an e320 cabriolet. The top wont go down. The roll bar switch and the soft top switch are solid red, no blinking. Any ideas as to what to do? and where are the rear fuses for the soft top located? Thanks much!
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#41
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I'd need more information. I doubt it's the fuse.
With solid red lights for both the rollbar and top switch, I think you may need to reset the rollbar. Did you hit a hard bump by chance? That could activate the rollbar sensors in the rear axle. Happened to me once. Prevents the rollbar and top from operating.
Make sure you have the engine running. Press and hold the rollbar switch (upper portion) for 30+ seconds. That should clear the problem if it is the rollbar sensor.
With solid red lights for both the rollbar and top switch, I think you may need to reset the rollbar. Did you hit a hard bump by chance? That could activate the rollbar sensors in the rear axle. Happened to me once. Prevents the rollbar and top from operating.
Make sure you have the engine running. Press and hold the rollbar switch (upper portion) for 30+ seconds. That should clear the problem if it is the rollbar sensor.
#42
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OK, so I cleaned the fuse holder contacts, roll bar works, windows raise and lower when door is locked/unlocked. Soft top warning chimes when button pushed back, but top does not come down. Red light flashes. I push the button forward and can hear the motor working and every thing relatching. Has it thrown a code?
#43
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1995 E320 Cab; 2007 E350 Sport
OK, so I cleaned the fuse holder contacts, roll bar works, windows raise and lower when door is locked/unlocked. Soft top warning chimes when button pushed back, but top does not come down. Red light flashes. I push the button forward and can hear the motor working and every thing relatching. Has it thrown a code?
#45
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Aha ... I was going to suggest checking the top pump fluid, too.
Interesting that the windows go down and you hear the top pump motor when you press forward on the top button.
I have been fortunate and never "thrown a code." I know there's a DIY procedure to checking the code somewhere on this forum. But you might want to try to the old easy stand-by first -- disconnect your battery for a few minutes, then see if the problem clears itself once you re-connect.
If this doesn't work, you could possibly have a failure in the rear latch or hydraulic cylinder that unlatches the rear top bow. In the normal top-lift sequence (after you've unlatched the front bow), the four windows go down ... then the rear latch unlocks, and the rear section (with window) pops up slightly. Then two additional cylinders lift the rear section. But if the if latch is jammed or has insufficient fluid, the whole process is halted.
So ... I'd disconnect the battery, check your top pump reservoir fluid, and try again. If the fluid is low, be sure to use the correct FEBI fluid when replenishing.
Couple of other things: Look on the ground in front of each rear wheel to see if there's any fluid, usually reddish in color, much like A/T fluid. This would indicate a hydraulic failure of one the top cylinders.
There's more I could add, but take the simple steps above first ... and we can go from there.
Interesting that the windows go down and you hear the top pump motor when you press forward on the top button.
I have been fortunate and never "thrown a code." I know there's a DIY procedure to checking the code somewhere on this forum. But you might want to try to the old easy stand-by first -- disconnect your battery for a few minutes, then see if the problem clears itself once you re-connect.
If this doesn't work, you could possibly have a failure in the rear latch or hydraulic cylinder that unlatches the rear top bow. In the normal top-lift sequence (after you've unlatched the front bow), the four windows go down ... then the rear latch unlocks, and the rear section (with window) pops up slightly. Then two additional cylinders lift the rear section. But if the if latch is jammed or has insufficient fluid, the whole process is halted.
So ... I'd disconnect the battery, check your top pump reservoir fluid, and try again. If the fluid is low, be sure to use the correct FEBI fluid when replenishing.
Couple of other things: Look on the ground in front of each rear wheel to see if there's any fluid, usually reddish in color, much like A/T fluid. This would indicate a hydraulic failure of one the top cylinders.
There's more I could add, but take the simple steps above first ... and we can go from there.
#46
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Oh yeah ... before you disconnect your battery, be sure you know your 4-digit radio code. I have the original radio in my Cabriolet and, anytime the battery is disconnected, I must reset the 4-digit code to enable the radio/cd player.
#47
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Thanks for the info. Fluid tank is half full. When I unlatch the front bow, the windows do not go down automatically. The windows drop and raise an inch or so when I unlock/lock the car. I will try the battery disconnect method, I can do without radio for a couple of days. I don't see any fluid leaking anywhere. I should mention that the car was garaged for four years. If it is the rear latch is malfunctioning, what then?
#48
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So no love on the battery disconnect method. I unlatch the bow and windows do not roll down. light is solid red. If I put the car in gear, light flashes red and warning chime chimes. When I hit the lower button, no sounds whatsoever, but when I hit raise I can hear parts moving and pushing into place.
#49
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The car was garaged for 4 years? Was the top working when you bought it? Or has it never been operable since you bought it?
For now, I must assume the latter. If the fluid tank is half-full, that's about right ... the rest of the fluid should be in the hydraulic lines and cylinders. But it's possible there was a leak or seepage sometime in the 4 years (or prior) while the car was garaged, and hence you wouldn't see a puddle now.
Unlocking the front latches does not activate anything ... except the chime will sound (and red light switch flash) if you put the car in gear with the latches unlocked. But the latches don't operate the windows. The sequence is:
a. With engine running, unlock front latches; then slightly push up the front section of the soft top.
b. Red console switch is now illuminated; pull back on it.
c. All side windows go down.
d. Rear soft top latch unlocks; you should hear a solid CLICK; base of rear section pops up about 1/2".
e. Rear window section of the top rises upwards and pivots towards front of car.
f. Rear shelf panel rises and pivots toward rear of car, opening the soft top storage compartment.
g. Entire top begins moving toward rear, folding itself into the storage compartment.
h. Rear shelf panel closes and latches.
i. If you continue to pull back on red top switch, the four side windows will rise.
j. Lock down the front latches, and the red switch light goes off.
So ... if the four side windows are not going down, that would be the first thing to ponder. The top mechanism won't operate if the windows are up. Use regular window switches to put all four down, then try the top mechanism again.
If the rear latch is malfunctioning ... if it isn't trying to open, or you don't hear it click ...well, that's a big problem. But try the window thing first and tell me what happens.
For now, I must assume the latter. If the fluid tank is half-full, that's about right ... the rest of the fluid should be in the hydraulic lines and cylinders. But it's possible there was a leak or seepage sometime in the 4 years (or prior) while the car was garaged, and hence you wouldn't see a puddle now.
Unlocking the front latches does not activate anything ... except the chime will sound (and red light switch flash) if you put the car in gear with the latches unlocked. But the latches don't operate the windows. The sequence is:
a. With engine running, unlock front latches; then slightly push up the front section of the soft top.
b. Red console switch is now illuminated; pull back on it.
c. All side windows go down.
d. Rear soft top latch unlocks; you should hear a solid CLICK; base of rear section pops up about 1/2".
e. Rear window section of the top rises upwards and pivots towards front of car.
f. Rear shelf panel rises and pivots toward rear of car, opening the soft top storage compartment.
g. Entire top begins moving toward rear, folding itself into the storage compartment.
h. Rear shelf panel closes and latches.
i. If you continue to pull back on red top switch, the four side windows will rise.
j. Lock down the front latches, and the red switch light goes off.
So ... if the four side windows are not going down, that would be the first thing to ponder. The top mechanism won't operate if the windows are up. Use regular window switches to put all four down, then try the top mechanism again.
If the rear latch is malfunctioning ... if it isn't trying to open, or you don't hear it click ...well, that's a big problem. But try the window thing first and tell me what happens.
#50
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OK, so even with the windows down, nothing happens after step B. When I say the alarm chimes, I it chimes with the latches locked and I put the car into drive. chimes for 5 secs or so and then soft top light begins blinking.