Jimmy Chen Shib

Can anyone help me source this Throttle Actuator (activator ?) for my 1994 E60 ? Same year's E500 should be okay too. I have searched several online shops but cannot seem to locate one. Much obliged for any help. I can get one here in Japan but I am sure it costs much more here than overseas.

w/ smiles Jimmy

funkgab

http://www.restoreyourmercedes.com/m...20rebuild.html

was going to use him, turned out my ETA was okay, and buy i did rebuild the harness myself..

also japan doesn't have any mercedes junkyards? :P i went to a pick and pull and got a ETA for a e420 for 22$ told the lady its a carburetor

good luck to ya..

Jim's500E

Try these guys Jimmy....

www.speed-autoteile.com


I do happen to have an extra one...but its out of a 1992 500E.

WDB124066

Tom Hansen at the Classiscs Centre, Irvine California.........

190E 16V

Jimmy, somebody on this specialty site may have one.

http://www.500eboard.com/forums/forum.php

Jimmy Chen Shib

Thanx for all the leads, guys. Shall give them my tries.

I was quoted that this parts would cost me in the neighborhood of 380,000 JP yen., which is north of USD $4000 !!!

w/ smiles
Jimmy

ptoro01

$4000, sounds fair.. IF it includes installation at the factory by the tech who built your engine in 1994. And maybe a car wash.

If not, then its the best joke ever!!


You might try contacting this guy

http://www.ebay.com/sch/at-hiker1/m....&_trksid=p3692

Jim's500E

New ETA is around $1500 here in the states....

Jimmy Chen Shib

Thanx, Jim's500E. Much obliged.

I did locate a new ETA with the Auto Parts World, but I am having trouble registering with them in order for me to order. Not sure why. Did send an inquiry to them to help me register.

As for the price here in Japan, it is no joke. Quotes for the ETA was JPyen 380,000 and for repairing the existing unit's wiring was something like JPyen 85,000. Not exactly peanuts.

w/ smiles Jimmy

Jimmy Chen Shib

Thanx for all your help. I was able to locate the ETA at the AutoParts World.
The did place the order today. The only trouble was that they do not ship outside US (apparently). Thus, I used the Bongo International in CT to act as my intermediary where the ETA gets shipped and in turn Bongo would ship to me in Japan. Whew !

Hope to get this issue resolved once the new ETA arrives.

Thanx again for all your help.

w/ smiles
Jimmy

Jimmy Chen Shib

With all your help, I was able to source an ETA from the States and after minor misunderstandings, I got the correct one. It has been installed several months back.

Unfortunately, the intermittent/ unpredicatable vibrations at idle mode or braked did not clear up totally. It is still alive and well !

My shop guy is a bit baffled too and we are not sure what to do at this point. He wanted me to bring the car in for further investigation, but for now I declined because of additional expenses without understanding the nature of the problem.

The car does run beautifully, except at idle, and the fibrillation only comes and goes as if she has her own will.

Curious if anyone else faced such situation before and figured out the cause.

I am open to all comments. Thanx.

w/ smiles

Jimmy

funkgab

what kind of vibration? where? the wheels? does it do the same in park?
hows the rpms look?

Jimmy Chen Shib

Funkgab, It is spontaneous, the vibration is intermittent, short, rhythmic (?), like vrmm, vrmm, and it seems to be the throttle area (front engine) and it only behaves like this during braking and parking. Otherwise, she runs perfectly normal. Rpm needle is quite stable around 500rpm with just a tiny, tiny hint of movement during this annoying behavior.

w/ smiles

Jimmy

funkgab

i've seen that before on the m119's usually its from a coilpack or the rotors/cap, check your coilpacks and the rotor, clean em if anything.. this can be a number of things btw,such as maf,wires, etc..

but easiest would be those, also check for a vacuum leak, vacuum problems usually showed up at idle.. and it is the cheapest.

i've seen cases where the cars would eventually stall out during idle, but ran perfect when it was running

the guys on the 500e board might have more info actually

if your transmission flares, during shifting though its your b2's (which isn't)

Jimmy Chen Shib

Prior to changing the ETA, it was a bit worse, so that was a half a step forward.

Thanx for the suggestions, funkgab. Shall go over the suggestions.

w/ smiles

Jimmy

Jimmy Chen Shib

Thank You, RPB.

Sorry to hear what you had to go thru. I certainly hope I do not have to follow that path !

As I stated earlier, this problem is not a major one at this moment, but still irritating nonetheless.

I am in no hurry to have to resolve this issue since I do have other cars that I need to run. However, I would try to find the culprit soon and update this when it is done.

Thank You again for your comment.

w/ smiles

Jimmy

Jimmy Chen Shib

Having left the problem on shelf for a while, I decided to pull out old magazine articles I kept and found this shop/ mechanic in southern Japan who seemed to know what he was doing (in the article at least). Since his place is way too far from where I am (over 1000km), I decided to call him to ask for his thoughts.

Since it was over the phone, the discussion was not terribly deep, but he was pleasant and nice enough to chat with me. Suffice to say that he ruled out the ETA. He did mention Oxygen sensor, but I told him that this was replaced not long ago.

As the last suggestion, he recommended to get some quality fuel additive and see what that would do.

Thus, I rushed to nearby car shop and got hold of a bottle of fuel additive (about 20 bucks) and added to a full tank fuel.

......Lo and behold, ...the car is virtually vibration free now. Not only that, she seems to be running much more smooth and acceleration improved !!! It is almost as the way she was when I bought her first years ago with only 6200km. (I am the second owner).

I am not that naive to think that this would resolve the issue of concern, but I can definitely state that I do see remarkable improvement in performance and best of all, the itermittent vibrations that bugged me is in remission, for the time being at least ! To be continued.

I thank this guru for his sage advise.

w/ smiles

Jimmy

Saijin_Naib

What kind of quality fuel do you have there? I know my m104 runs like absolute crap on 87RON and noticeably better on 95 (where I can find it). That being said, all my fuel now has 10% Ethanol in it which my car absolutely hates, so I've been running fuel additives every tank just to get some power and smoothness back.

Jimmy Chen Shib

To be honest, never seriously gave second thoughts to that point since we only have a choice between so called regular and high octane fuel here.

Maybe I ought to find out more on this.

w/ smiles

Jimmy

Saijin_Naib

I'd be really interested to know what you find out. Fuel quality makes a night & day difference in my m104, and I'd assume the m119 would be just as picky.

When I run low octane (87RON) I'll get maybe 13mpg around town and about 17-18 highway. When I run actual pure 95RON (no ethanol additive) I'll get around 17-18 around town, and up to 27 highway. Acceleration and smoothness also benefit. There is a gas station chain near by that sells 100+RON fuel that I'd like to try. It is also 9$ US per gallon

I've been running a bottle of SeaFoam additive every tank for the past month now since I've been having issues with my fuel freezing up on days that were well below 0C. It seems to have helped my engine's smoothness a touch and given me back a bit of pep on the acceleration.

Jimmy Chen Shib

Well, has been a while since the last post.

During that time, number of worn out parts replacement led to improvements but was not the final resolvement of issues.

Have been relatively happy up till now except that there was still occasional irregularities although much much less often.

However, last month as I was driving home from work, noticed the engine begin to loose power. After shutting the engine and cooling down a while, things were back to normal. I also noticed this not so loud "whining" sound coming from the rear when engine was on. My shop guy and I guessed that the problem may be the other unchanged fuel pump. (Had one replaced couple years back).

Exploring for other potential culprits, we finally concluded that the cause may have been the rust (sediment) within the gas tank, clogging up the fuel line. Obsolete fuel lines were changed and instead of replacing the gas tank itself, we opted to flush out and clean the internal of gas tank with a commercial chemical agent. The condition did not necessitate total replacement of tank at this time. Along with that, we replaced the double fuel pumps, just in case they were compromised.

Happy to say that the overall improvement was stark. Now the engine is running issue free, almost too good. No more high pitched sound from the rear too. Looks like we have finally sourced the cause of the irregular rumbling problem that nagged me for years.

w/ smiles
Jimmy