220E cold start shakes and hot stall issues
01-03-2015, 01:49 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NE Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1993 W124 220E
220E cold start shakes and hot stall issues
Hello everyone. First post for me. I've read a great deal on these forums and many of the posts appear to relate to my ongoing issue with my 1993 220E (WDB1240222B922899).
I'm really nervous about throwing money at this car without feeling confident I'm heading down the right track. I've received advice that this could be an OVP relay issue but wanted to put this out there for others to comment on - please.
After leaving my car at an airport for a week or so I came back and it was hard to start, took a few goes, ambient temperature was cold. It started eventually but shook a fair bit and felt as if it wasn't firing on all cylinders.
Following a five minute wait and with the car warm it settled down and purred the 200kms to get home without incident. The same scenario presented itself, usually after not being driven for a few days and erratically - inconsistently.
Recently I took the car in for its coolant change and flush. I was advised at the time that the thermostat is stuffed and I need a new one although it wouldn't affect me when it's hot here (NE Vic) but later in the year when it cools off and I should get it replaced at some stage. I haven't done that yet. I also described the issues I had with starting and he said he'd cleaned the throttle body for me whilst in the shop.
He also advised me to put some higher octane fuel in it (can't recall that conversation and why I should). I dutifully did this after I made the 60km journey back to my home town.
When I pulled up to my driveway and selected reverse the car stalled. I started it up again and reversed in. Stalled when I stopped.
A few days later the revs started going haywire, hunting. I called a local chap and he came out and after revving under the bonnet and banging the MAF with the palm of his hand half a dozen times it stopped hunting and idled beautifully. I took it out on the freeway and the car went off like a bullet when I put my foot down.
On the strength of it I bought a new MAF (after market from UK) figuring mine was on its last legs and should be changed and I installed it. Drove the car out of town 50kms and parked up. Waited about an hour and began the return trip. As I slowed to some lights and whilst the revs dropped it stalled. I pulled over and started it up and it stalled again. Waited maybe 5 minutes and it started and drove fine all the way home until I pulled in the driveway - straight in this time no reversing - stalled.
I made another 120km round trip and on the return leg having left the car much the same for an hour it started stalling again at low revs at a roundabout. Then on the way home I heard a a rattling and chattering under the bonnet which was there momentarily and then went away. I've only done short journeys since as a result. The car hunts a bit on start and then idles normally, fuel consumption appears to be a touch higher than before and I don't know whether it's my imagination or not but the car smells like it's running pretty rich. Exhaust is quite potent.
The main fan at the front of the engine (the super noisy one) comes on at the strangest of times too. When I start the car for instance it'll come on, it may have been sat in the drive for a few days and not particularly hot out, at other times not.
Armed with the above can anyone advise what might be going on here. I'm happy to start buying the cheaper parts and work upwards but don't want to get myself in over my head buying lots of parts. Also, where can I buy the various relays that may be the problem?
Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm really nervous about throwing money at this car without feeling confident I'm heading down the right track. I've received advice that this could be an OVP relay issue but wanted to put this out there for others to comment on - please.
After leaving my car at an airport for a week or so I came back and it was hard to start, took a few goes, ambient temperature was cold. It started eventually but shook a fair bit and felt as if it wasn't firing on all cylinders.
Following a five minute wait and with the car warm it settled down and purred the 200kms to get home without incident. The same scenario presented itself, usually after not being driven for a few days and erratically - inconsistently.
Recently I took the car in for its coolant change and flush. I was advised at the time that the thermostat is stuffed and I need a new one although it wouldn't affect me when it's hot here (NE Vic) but later in the year when it cools off and I should get it replaced at some stage. I haven't done that yet. I also described the issues I had with starting and he said he'd cleaned the throttle body for me whilst in the shop.
He also advised me to put some higher octane fuel in it (can't recall that conversation and why I should). I dutifully did this after I made the 60km journey back to my home town.
When I pulled up to my driveway and selected reverse the car stalled. I started it up again and reversed in. Stalled when I stopped.
A few days later the revs started going haywire, hunting. I called a local chap and he came out and after revving under the bonnet and banging the MAF with the palm of his hand half a dozen times it stopped hunting and idled beautifully. I took it out on the freeway and the car went off like a bullet when I put my foot down.
On the strength of it I bought a new MAF (after market from UK) figuring mine was on its last legs and should be changed and I installed it. Drove the car out of town 50kms and parked up. Waited about an hour and began the return trip. As I slowed to some lights and whilst the revs dropped it stalled. I pulled over and started it up and it stalled again. Waited maybe 5 minutes and it started and drove fine all the way home until I pulled in the driveway - straight in this time no reversing - stalled.
I made another 120km round trip and on the return leg having left the car much the same for an hour it started stalling again at low revs at a roundabout. Then on the way home I heard a a rattling and chattering under the bonnet which was there momentarily and then went away. I've only done short journeys since as a result. The car hunts a bit on start and then idles normally, fuel consumption appears to be a touch higher than before and I don't know whether it's my imagination or not but the car smells like it's running pretty rich. Exhaust is quite potent.
The main fan at the front of the engine (the super noisy one) comes on at the strangest of times too. When I start the car for instance it'll come on, it may have been sat in the drive for a few days and not particularly hot out, at other times not.
Armed with the above can anyone advise what might be going on here. I'm happy to start buying the cheaper parts and work upwards but don't want to get myself in over my head buying lots of parts. Also, where can I buy the various relays that may be the problem?
Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any advice.
01-06-2015, 10:13 AM
#2
Out Of Control!!
Before I start kicking the tires, emptying the ash trays or removing the rats nest from under the so called bonnet or ask billy bob to beat on the exhaust------I would ask myself why did MB place an 8 or 16 pin diagnostic socket under the bonnet----an answer could be------quite possibly to help diagnose problems.
Therefore my suggestion is first help yourself by learning about your cars diagnostic capabilities which is all collected in the stickies or goggle---then get a pulse counter and go to it---read the pulses and post the results.
PS--don't get consumed by the OVP relay syndrome---thats typically BS and money wasted especially when the Aussie dollar is worth more than the good ole US buck!!
Happy reading!!
010715--edit----fyi your engine is a 111.960 and your transmission is a 722.428
Therefore my suggestion is first help yourself by learning about your cars diagnostic capabilities which is all collected in the stickies or goggle---then get a pulse counter and go to it---read the pulses and post the results.
PS--don't get consumed by the OVP relay syndrome---thats typically BS and money wasted especially when the Aussie dollar is worth more than the good ole US buck!!
Happy reading!!
010715--edit----fyi your engine is a 111.960 and your transmission is a 722.428
Last edited by Plutoe; 01-07-2015 at 04:47 PM.
01-06-2015, 06:49 PM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NE Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1993 W124 220E
Thanks.
01-08-2015, 04:46 PM
#4
Out Of Control!!
When you get your tester the attached M111 specific document will help you interpret the pulse codes. Read carefully
Last edited by Plutoe; 01-10-2015 at 06:39 PM. Reason: withdrew attachment
01-09-2015, 09:33 PM
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NE Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1993 W124 220E
Thanks for that Plutoe.
There has been a development. Drove the car today, cool and raining out so thought I'd see if the hot engine stalling issue manifested itself again with lower temperatures.
Started fine, idled fine, accelerated and drove perfectly.
Made it half way into town (about 2kms), she lost a bit of power whilst coasting along and then picked up again. Managed to hastily perform a 180 and point toward home, few hundred yards later she just died altogether.
Full electrics and will turn over but not start at all. Waited ten minutes or so but still the same, turns over but doesn't catch.
Had to have the old girl unceremoniously towed home.
Fuel delivery? Pump, relay?
There has been a development. Drove the car today, cool and raining out so thought I'd see if the hot engine stalling issue manifested itself again with lower temperatures.
Started fine, idled fine, accelerated and drove perfectly.
Made it half way into town (about 2kms), she lost a bit of power whilst coasting along and then picked up again. Managed to hastily perform a 180 and point toward home, few hundred yards later she just died altogether.
Full electrics and will turn over but not start at all. Waited ten minutes or so but still the same, turns over but doesn't catch.
Had to have the old girl unceremoniously towed home.
Fuel delivery? Pump, relay?
05-06-2015, 05:55 PM
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NE Victoria, Australia.
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1993 W124 220E
No change after work carried out.
Okay, been a while.
The code reader showed no faults.
The engine wiring looms have been replaced, they were well past their use by date, the computer was sent away for testing and came back clean, no issues.
The problem of not starting remains - engine turns over but does not catch at all.
Removed the fuel line that links up to the engine and turned the ignition over, no fuel coming out the end of the line. Removed a spark plug still connected to the high tension lead, turned car over, no spark.
Anyone have any ideas? Really odd.
The code reader showed no faults.
The engine wiring looms have been replaced, they were well past their use by date, the computer was sent away for testing and came back clean, no issues.
The problem of not starting remains - engine turns over but does not catch at all.
Removed the fuel line that links up to the engine and turned the ignition over, no fuel coming out the end of the line. Removed a spark plug still connected to the high tension lead, turned car over, no spark.
Anyone have any ideas? Really odd.
06-13-2015, 03:20 AM
#7
Hello.
Potential problems with the fuel supply.
Maybe your fuel pump overheated or worn.
eg company Pierburg fuel pumps do not work in the heat (overheating).
as any dirt in the fuel system (fuel filter, dirt in the socket the fuel supply in the fuel rail) lead to overheating of the pump, and poor feeding.
Perhaps in your country, and clean fuel such problems do not happen ...
the overload relay must be serviced (dismantled and all points of the soldering iron to heat the soldering), as with age there appear circular cracks.
air flow meter on this engine is only Bosch, the other cheap alternatives - either die quickly or lying.
If you want to evaluate the performance of the engine computer - you can make a diagnosis and I prompt you if I have a problem ...
Mike.
Potential problems with the fuel supply.
Maybe your fuel pump overheated or worn.
eg company Pierburg fuel pumps do not work in the heat (overheating).
as any dirt in the fuel system (fuel filter, dirt in the socket the fuel supply in the fuel rail) lead to overheating of the pump, and poor feeding.
Perhaps in your country, and clean fuel such problems do not happen ...
the overload relay must be serviced (dismantled and all points of the soldering iron to heat the soldering), as with age there appear circular cracks.
air flow meter on this engine is only Bosch, the other cheap alternatives - either die quickly or lying.
If you want to evaluate the performance of the engine computer - you can make a diagnosis and I prompt you if I have a problem ...
Mike.
